My car ( 2004 Honda Accord 2.4l ) doesn’t pass 3k rpm and I already replaced the VTEC Solenoid and cleared the code and code hasn’t came up but my car won’t pass 3k rpms any clue !???
Ah yes, another great video from Dennis 👍! One thing I have not changed on my 02 RSX is the Vtec solenoid. I'm glad you did this one Bro, cuz my Vtec doesn't kick in on a chilky Texas morning 30 minutes later no prob The time is coming...
Are you doing this while the engine isn't at operating temperature? Because that would be your reason why , if the car is still cold, the car won't engage vtec. Find this out when my thermostat was stuck open after replacing my radiator lol
I have the same issue . The clicking noise you hear is from the engine and it's cumming out out of the valve cover . I get to the conclusion that it's trying to engage the VTEC on Idle and cold motor . The VTEC solenoid assembly was replaced last year and it hold 1 year since it was after market one . This year failed again the same way . Starting the car in cold , clicking noise and after that engine light on , mine is 03 EP3 Civic K20A2 and getting the old representation of the code which is P1259. Waiting for the OEM one since I by another after market one and the symptoms are worse, even the Idle is disrupted . Strange thing is that when the engine heats , everything is operational after clearing the error VTEC is engaging without issues or noises . Strange thing is that it's happening only in cold weather and when you start the car in the morning (dead cold) Hope this assist someone since I dig the whole internet to find the same scenario like mine , and this is the first video where I see it do the Clicking noise.
So, the car will go into limp mode with this code, and won't Rev above 4k rpm. If you accidently hit 4k with the code and the engine cuts fuel and limits, sometimes it will cause misfire codes. Mine did it, told me I had a misfire on all 4 cylinders and threw a knock sensor code.
Be careful with aftermarket radiator caps; if it's rated for a higher psi than the oem cap, it'll raise the pressure of the whole coolant system. If there's a weak link in the system, the cap will not release the pressure like its designed to do, and something else will relieve the pressure.😅 Other than that... enjoy your higher coolant boiling Temps! :)
I totally understand what you mean about a higher temp radiator cap. I have used the 1997 Civic style aluminum radiators on 2 of my rides and they come with the higher temp cap. So would you think it would be better to put the factory cap back on it? I am not worried too much about my temp because of doing a little cooler thermostat and added relays to make my 3 electric fans run all the time. After adding a turbo, I figured I would do what I could to keep the temp down.
It was awful to get out, thank God I had like 1/16 of an inch of bolt sticking out of the head. I got a very tiny nut, placed it over the broken bolt and squeezed a mig welder in there and tacked them together. Only took 6 hours lol
Also, I don't know if the engine bay is much different, but mine is a hatch and there was soooooo little room. Had to have a mirror positioned in there to see the nut to weld on it.
Don't over tighten it. The nuts only need a torque spec of 8.7 lbf.ft, but most people use 9 ft/lbs as the spec. Just go hand tight. get it down until your wrench/ratchet stops, then give it another 1/4-1/2 turn. The pressure switch on top torque to 16 lbf.ft
You said you wanted to upgrade your brakes, well I wanted to let you know about some I have tried. They were cheap cross drilled and slotted rotors that came with brake pads and they are the best I have ever used. I have even ordered more sets for all my other project cars. They don't rust or get your rims dirty. I think I paid like $85 for everything for the front. From 60mph they will slam your head against your steering wheel, lol. And that was just the front. Also you can let them sit for a few weeks outside and they do not make any noise after sitting that long. Sometimes it's not the most expensive that is the best. Thanks for the video.
Just a set of front rotors with ceramic pads I found on ebay. They had no name brand. I have about 5,000 miles on them now and they are still as good as when I first put them on. Sorry for not having more info. @@jeurycisneros17
B4 installing, was your car unable to rev above 4k rpm’s? Because my rsx type s 2005 is doing this n like what u did in the video, it sounds like a two-step when revving.
Yes that’s limp mode, if you have kpro you can clear the code and hit Vtec again but the car will have no power so I wouldn’t recommend it tbh….the code will come back too you just never know if it’ll be during your next pull which could hurt the engine…or your back when the car unexpectedly stops you at 4K🤣
