This is the only video on here that describes the casle nut using the retainer tab behind it. Wish my boat had cotter pin hole in the spindle like everybody else. Thanks, good video.
There is supposed to be 1 to 5 thousand’s clearance on the bearings. Never, ever supposed to be torqued or tightened down to zero. Please go watch the Timken bearing installation procedure before you burn up your bearings. Tightening to zero clearance is the biggest culprit for failure. I’ve been a mechanic and have pulled and serviced many trailers for going on 5 decades. You also need to pump in the grease very slowly while turning the wheel/hub. (Per Dexter axle service procedure). I would also recommend watching the Dexter axle service videos too. Torque the nut to 25 lbs then loosen it only when installing new bearings. Old bearings that have not had the cups (bearing races) removed from the hub need not be torqued again. After loosening the nut, finger tighten it as hard as you can then back it off 1/6 to 1/4 turn (do NOT turn he hub while doing this) and lock the nut to the nearest slot. But never less than 1/6 of a turn loose. That will give you the proper clearance and yes, you may feel a little movement in the wheel. That is normal. Again, watch the Timken bearing video on RU-vid rather than the Dexter axle procedure for the bearings. One of my older trailers has the same type of nut locking system as yours. They can’t use a cotter pin on an easy lube axle. Mine locks closer to 1/4 turn loose. That allows a little less than 1/8 inch of movement at the outside of the tire. This is normal as indicated by the bearing manufactures. My oldest trailer is 29 years old, over a million miles and still has the original bearings and hubs and the original Dexter Torsion axle (been overloaded many times). Three sets of wheels and eight sets of tires but still on original hubs and bearings. Regards…
Dexter?...Timken?...cotter pins and lube axles???... You obviously have an overwhelming amount of knowledge on this subject. While I'm sure every bit of critique you generously offered us is 100% correct, what I'm even more curious about is why you would watch this video in the first place, given you already know what you're doing??? Unless you did it for absolutely no other reason than to critique. But, I'm sure that's not the case, given what a miserable, insecure, strangely jealous human being that would make you out to be. So, I'll just assume you are INCREDIBLY into hubs and bearings. In that case, I'll simply say thank you for the feedback, and hope that Dexter and Timken fill in whatever cracks this extremely genuine, selfless man left out.
You explained this very well. I had no idea how un-complicated this job truly is. I know my boat mechanic would've charged me over $300, for the labor costs alone. Had it not been for the explanations into the camera, you could've done both sides of the trailer in less than a 30min. Whether it was done 100% by the book, or not, I could screw this up 2-3x's and it would still be cheaper than what my mechanic charges.... So, thank you for taking the time!
Do you have any idea how to remove the spindle on a axle similar to the one you have in the video? My trailers Hub and spindle looks the same as yours I can't find a video on how to remove it.
I don't know if I have that type of screw thing or the proper torque thing I have the black bar you used for this I don't know if it would make a difference
Thank you for watching! I am waiting for Frank to get back to me, but I do know it's a vortex brand hub (tie down engineering) #81013 . Hopefully that helps till I talk to Frank.
