How to Replace Your RV Refrigerator With Residential Fridge Step by Step With Haier Model HA10TG21SB 

I just got this exact refrigerator and I've learned so much about it from watching your video. Thank you!

Very clean install. Now you can sleep at night with one less thing to worry about The wife says our Samsung is the best modification we have done to out coach. Four years now and no regrets

A great video, I really like the solutions to some of the issues that you had. In my tiny trailer my 2.7 Dometic failed just out of warranty. Replacement with tax $2400 cdn. So replaced with $200 domestic. Having to leave clearance and with outside vent at the rear, as a precaution I covered my vent inside face with bug screen to keep out mosquitoes. I also used my dometic fridge rear cooling fan to provide extra air flow with a switch just to the side of the new fridge front for hot times. Love your solution to keep the doors shut. I used the position for reversing the hinge as a mount for a bracket and pin to keep mine closed in transit. Remove when we arrive, easy peasy.

Kevin thank you very much for your time to make this video, great comments and suggestions. Great job.

There are many RV residential frig videos- Sir- yours is the most thorough, accurate and informative. You answered many of the questions buyers had about why they were dissatisfied with a freezing frig and all of my questions- wattage, weight variance, install and winter use. AZ Expert recently shared his install mistake when he drilled a hole in the front/middle edge to add a door lock- and ran into a line- resulting in his purchase of a replacement for his client. Ready to replace our 18 year old RV frig.

Thanks for great video. The magic chef 10.1 is also a great choice. put in several rvs. fits in like the unit in this video. uses 360 watts so runs nicely on an inverter. wrap it with reflective wrap top and sides and also do back wall. again thanks for sharing video. will send it to others as i get requests for new refers

Getting ready to put the same fridge in my RV. I'll have to expand the opening as I have a smaller dometic. That said, this is absolutely the best "how to" video I have ever watched. Thanks. I'll be using most of your tips and ideas.

Thank you for the gold star at the end. I see a lot of value in your videos, not just because of the main topics but because of all the insights you bring along with your tips and tricks. And yes, McGuiver would be proud of you. Thanks for this.

Man just awesome. I need to do this at the moment. My noracold gave up and I didn't like it so I will be doing this. Just nervous about venting and doing it right. Im not that handy I will be using this video over n over thank you so much 👍

I did this same replacement only I found a Thomson Residential fridge at Sam’s for only $229. Love it. Great video btw!

One of the best videos I havw ever seen on this! I watched it once, and I will watch it at least once more!

I watched it thru the end, we have that same refrigerator in ours, and I know about the lack of space, great job and great job ideas.

Awesome job! Hi from Dauphin Island Alabama Campground. I did this mod as well. Awesome job on door lock. I also rubbed a thin coat of grease on the coolant lines near the compressor because they have a bad habit of corroding

Thanks for the step by step with bolt size. Just did the exact same to our Winnebago. I made the mistake of assuming that the bottom bolt holes were the same as the top, so I made two brackets using the top measurement. Had to redrill the bottom bracket. But was an easier upgrade/ install thanks to your detailed video.

I just went to Amazon and ordered that Pro Watt SW switch for mine. I have been changing mine refrig from 110 to inverter manually. Your idea is sweet.

Kevin, I am very impressed. Great job. McGuiver has nothing on you. I love the job you did. I’m going to make the Mrs. watch. Might just do the same.

Sure looks good Kevin!! And thx for your detailed tutorial!!!

Great job Kevin! Love how you go into great detail and cover all the bases - such as adding the refrigerator door closer/stopper for traveling. I especially like your solution for using angled aluminum brackets to fasten into existing hinge mounting holes. It's practical, easy to accomplish, and looks good. A suggestion / thought on mounting security. As you noted your original Norcold was mounted to the rear floor by a large metal bracket. Apparently because it was felt necessary to have some mounting strength there. As I recall this bracket was bolted to the sides of the Norcold as well as into both the floor plywood and into studs on each side. But your new installation only secures the refrigerator by the front aluminum bracket - pretty much like how the Norcold was screwed into the front bottom framing. Like you I also really like that the bottom rear of your new fridge rests along the extruded metal piece running the entire width, taking the weight off those small plastic rear rollers. So is it possible to drill 2 -3 holes in the bottom of that extrusion through which you could run some bolts into the plywood floor? If so it would help mimic the OE Norcold mounting somewhat, where they felt it important to have extra bolts. 2ndly - Inverter. Since you are running the new fridge off your 1000w inverter this implies that it has to be turned on 100% of the time when boondocking. For some reason I do not like to keep my 1500 watt GoPower inverter turned on all the time. We do so when using our microwave or powering some outlets, but otherwise it is either shut off or in eco mode. For watching TV when boondocking we use the small 275 watt OE inverter Winnebago installed just for that purpose. So in considering doing my own refrigerator upgrade I am thinking of using a small inverter (like a Victron 300 watt) to power just the refrigerator, and leaving that on all the time instead. That would also not interfere with any amperage draws from my main GoPower, which I could continue to use as normal. Thoughts? Cost savings. In my own research I began by looking at same size 12v DC models. They accomplish almost exactly what you have achieved here, except that they run off of 12v DC directly. But their HUGE downside is their cost. Virtually all of those models run $1300 - 1600. (GE --> Furrion). So it became quickly very apparent from your 1st video on your new fridge that there is a much, much less expensive way to achieve the same result (run off 12v DC & gain more storage space) - just buy a more common 120c AC model and run it off an inverter. Not only that, there are many brands and models of this exact RV replacement size available out there. Found many choices at Home Depot - including a Galanz 10 cu.ft stainless steel model for $360 - which looks to be very VERY similar to your Haier. www.homedepot.com/p/Galanz-10-0-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-with-Dual-Door-Frost-Free-in-Stainless-Steel-Look-GLR10TS5F/308964936? For the REALLY adventuresome I found an LG 11.1 cu.ft model for $700 that is the same width & depth. Has an advanced energy efficient inverter compressor too, but it's downside is that it is 66.6" high - making it just a tad too high to fit in my available space - www.homedepot.com/p/LG-Electronics-11-1-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-in-Platinum-Silver-with-Door-Cooling-Counter-Depth-LTNC11131V/308085233?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-RM-F_DYNM-G-D29A-029_013_REFRIG-LG_ELECTRONICS-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-MK560603300_9016993661_FY22_654_&cm_mmc=Shopping-RM-F_DYNM-G-D29A-029_013_REFRIG-LG_ELECTRONICS-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-MK560603300_9016993661_FY22_654_-71700000086551824-58700007367374614-92700070086316748&gclid=Cj0KCQjwma6TBhDIARIsAOKuANzz6AAslM6ojSMUZY4cpz7kVQKtn3r37FpMoIFq1Bs0mi79A2XChrMaAnfIEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds But others might be able to squeeze it into their model RV, especially if one is willing to do a bit of re-working the front trim. But I think you latched onto what is soon to be a very popular RV upgrade for many owners. Thanks again for putting together this video. I know it will really help a lot of people, and as you & I have discussed this refrigerator upgrade will appeal to most RV owners looking for more safety and more refrigerator space.

This was a fantastic video. Our Norcold fridge gave up the ghost (it made it 25 years, can’t complain) and this seems the way to go. I appreciated the explanation of the electrical setup, and the transfer switch is a great addition. It almost seems like some of these residential refrigerators are made specifically for RV swaps. Magic Chef makes one that is perfect for our situation. Cheers and thanks for sharing.

Now take the 12 volt igniter out of the old fridge and install it on your stove with push button like I did it works great been on there for 4 years.

Kevin thanks for your informative video, we loved it and shared it with a few others here in Australia. We successfully removed our Dometic through the window of our 5er and installed our new Haier which looks great. I forgot to put the doors on before I fixed the fridge in place but managed to get them both on without removing the fridge again.

This is so helpful, thank you!

Great job!!

Looks good. On ours I just would have the plug 120 volts behind the refrigerator

Thank you for all your deep explanations of your ingenuity!! I bought a 10 Cu. Ft. Majic chef. Jabe only had it 6 months and have been having cooling problems in lower fridge going from 32°to 45° with food spoilage. Freezer is fine. The fan is intermittently working. Having is replaced by home depot with a new one, this Thursday. I live in Florida and we're having 94 ° weather. I have a pvc pipe going from furnace below up through fridge cabinet up and out through the roof. Its EXTREMLY hot in the cabinet mid day onward because of sun being on that back of fifth wheel in the afternoons. I also have the back vent outside the fridge. I think the pipe is not carrying enough heat and displacing through the roof. What suggestions do you have for me to overcome this problem. I am full time living and am recovering from a stroke and not back to work yet, so having to throw out food twice now in two weeks is upsetting to me. I need help please and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. By the way i took out insulation from inside cabinet and did not put anything back in and funds are very, very, lean right now. Thank you and have a Blessed Evening.

Just pre drill that back plate setting on the floor and use lag bolts

Just HAD to drill a hole near those coolant lines 😂

Great detailed video! I'm curious about laying the new fridge on its back. I thought that was a big no-no, or is that not true? Thanks

I love it, amazed the amount of additional space utilizing the same hole that's amazing. I don't understand you putting in the transfer switch though, your coach should come with one built in no? Did you look into the 12v fridges.? If so what did you think?

Excellent topic and one I will be considering. I own a 2005 Itaska 8.1 gas, was wondering if you ever upgraded your suspension system?

I think the black tabs at 3:25 may be Velcro to secure the doors for transit.

Brilliant video/tutorial. I'm glad I ran across your video as I'm replacing the old Norcold in our 2003 Itasca Horizon with a GE 11.6 cf. The use of the 1.5 inch aluminum angle for the mounting/support brackets is first rate. Thanks for the great ideas!

Great job with the conversion of your refrigerator. In the process of doing the same thing. On the prowatt switch I'm having a hard time trying to wire this up. Could you explain the different plugs that you used. Not really sure what the yellow looking short plug is?? I know that a male plug is used for the shore power, a female plug for the load "refrigerator " I'm just not sure about the plug for the inverter?? This should also be a male plug?? Thank you for any clarification you could offer.

How did you measure the opening? Did you measure to leave room for the 1in on both sides to determine the size of the refrigerator?

Hey, this is a great write up! Quick question. My Winnebago has a metal strap on the top, that was screwed into the top of the old fridge. Any idea of I risk hitting anything using that same strap on the top back of the fridge? Id like to zip a couple sheet metal screws in that, and have some extra tip-over protection in the event of a crash. I have little kids who sit near the fridge when driving.

Kevin, you are way better than MacGyver....he used fence wire, duct tape and something from a Hot Pockets wrapper. I have been considering a similar install, and adding a Jackery to power the fridge on travel days. I don't have any solar, and don't plan on adding any (not much for boondocking). DC fridge is too expensive. Your thoughts or comment would be appreciated.

Very nice video. Question, why not install a 12 volt refrigerator instead?

Do you do a lot of boondocking? I wonder how much power it uses having to leave the inverter on 24/7?

My norcold only lasted 1 1/2 years but it’s the DC one, for a $1500 refrigerator it’s quite disappointing so I’m going to upgrade mine to residential

What do you use to cap the propane line

Are you in Lexington, Kentucky

I am wondering what is the best brand to deal with below 20 degrees and running in above 90 temps outside? I wonder if they will perform in temperature extremes. Also, anybody out there replaced a 1201 LRIM? It is 33 wide by 63 tall +/-. I’ve seen videos on replacing these with taller units but I dont want to lose my under fridge storage. It looks like my best option is to buy one of the models you have in your video and then figure someway to build in a pantry beside it?

Kevin, just curious...did you purchase any type of warranty for this refridgerator?

Grest video very through. Just curious 1yr later now hows it holding up anything you would change ? Whats real world use 12v battery power consumption been like ? how many amp hours in a 24 hr period? Thanks

Can you help me with the lock you made ?

Uh huh had an IDEA huh Your so smart. ORRRRR you saw someone put a screw in a refrigerant line on a RU-vid video. 😂🙄

I would never install a home refrigerator in my RV. Select the best application for you..