I also reside in Florida those old Florida homes are well made. I need to get my home re plumbed and I'm trying to get educated before they come out to give me an estimate. Thank you so much for the upload. You are Blessed that your handy.
@@garfixit Not a bad idea but don't forget you can mix systems. Use copper behind the shower valve and anywhere else that is critical then use plastic pipe on long runs or main lines.
@@BlackShale Not a bad price if the installers take their time and do good work so no leaks - ever. It is a lot of time to replace pipe vs the original install and you could just update critical pipes in walls and not redo the entire system
Great video, esp using different systems PEX A + CPVC & shark bite, etc. 41:03 I believe that plastic hangers should be used with the PVC instead of metal to prevent the pipe from wearing down from rubbing against the strap and the same with copper pipe use copper strap and finally steel strap for steel conduit. Also, the loose insulation in the attack should be tested for asbestos and even if it is not a mask should be worn in the attic to prevent breathing dust and fiberglass. Attic crawl space: by code wires can be flopped on top of the ceiling joists - sloppy but saves time and you can run a mechanics creeper cart on top of the wood to make it easier to move up there and use a trash pickup handy grabber tool to reach tools, materials, etc. Smart to work when it is cool
The CPVC near the exterior would be concern for a future bust - probably a *Long* way down the road It just never fails for cpvc pipes to break on the exterior of a home But I could be speaking for other traditional cpvc set-ups The amount of attention and methodology based around your video probably makes your installation long-lasting 🙌🏽
Also the insulation for your Pex installation was amazing to see it all come together However, what if the cpvc near the exterior deals with cold-temps or a freeze? Cpvc does not like expansion compared to Pex
In the video at 24:50 you cut off the expansion ring. It looked like the PEX pipe had a crack in it. Why was there a crack in the pipe or was that from the knife?
I love how pros are bashing your work and this video for giving general public yhe idea thst thry can st least think about doing something themselves and finishing the ptoject for probably 75% less jidt because pto beeds to buy a new bost or Corvette.... Days of lead and oakum are gone - now you don't need to know for to solder anymore - even if you want to go with copper, you can use propress to make leak tight connections....
I just did a PEX re-pipe on my house in December. Like you a 1500 sqft house; though I was in a crawl space instead of attic. I used Zurn Pex B which is actually designed and rated for expansion fittings. 3/4" trunk and 1/2" branches. I found that the Zurn and Uponor (ProPex) rings are tighter and faster to seal completely than the Apollo rings. I also commend your persistence with the manual tool. I bought an electric and that made the whole project like putting toys together. Sooooo much easier.
@@hanoveroak Nothing wrong with the manual PEX crimp tool. PEX A is far superior though. Talking the same money basically so why choose a system with massive water restrictions right off the bat? PEX B chokes down like mad just for ONE fitting. By the time you get to the middle or back of the house, you've lost a ton of water volume. I went from PEX B to PEX A. Got water for days now. Redid what my plumbers did in Sioux Chief PEX A. Never go back to anything else. Remember to INSULATE both the cold and hot lines.
@@hanoveroak Thanks, but what is the purpose of boxing them? The plumber who did the repiping to pex in the attic wants to box them. However, the cost would be $6,500. I am trying to find out what good boxing would do in No. Virginia where the winters aren't that severe. I will fnd out on Monday if the county requires it.
@@vin.handle I would think they want to box them to protect from the cold. In Virginia I think insulating them with foam is enough. I was only considering boxing the exposed pipe in the attic to make it look better.
You can. If you use PEX anywhere that there is UV light from the sun then you will need to insulate it to protect it. I was avoiding insulating everything that I installed in the garage so I used CPVC for some of it. I also wanted to show different ways of doing things.
Ask yourself why. If a plumber is doing the job correctly and to code, why would they have a problem? Pulling a permit protects you the homeowner against the frauds and posers. When you sell, the buyer would want to check if a permit was pulled, especially for a huge job like replumbing the entire house.
i know you finished but heres a pro tip only or most only plumbers know....instead of paper towels to cover you openings. use a piece of bread wad up a small piece and insert into your pipe! water will dissolve it but wouldnt recommend for water lines going to ice makers or filters!!!
It’s less susceptible to UV damage and I didn’t want to have to insulate certain parts. I also wanted to show how to transition from/to different types of pipe in the video.
😂this dude is so cheap. Probably got like 10 estimates and decided to waste his life hacking it himself. Leave this for the pros. Weekend warrior over here thinks he cracked the code to life 😂
In the video at 24:50 you cut off the expansion ring. It looked like the PEX pipe had a crack in it. Why was there a crack in the pipe or was that from the knife?
If you want max flow for a spigot bring 3/4 copper out put on a 3/4 male adapter and then a 1/4 turn ball valve. The make ip to hose adapters. Works well.
As someone that has renovated, flipped similar houses, I like the spirit of this diy project. ..i probably wouldnt have used cpvc pipe at all.or one or the other. Some pros (and cons) of cpvc/cpvc gold flow etc ...but probably just drop pex ..In particular the garage drop whereas you implemented a series of 45s cpvc ...just would have cut a little shorter pex so the drop of the pex would be in the grove you wish. Also I know it would have been more work.. but would have looked into dropping the pipe into the walls. Even a concrete wall drop is possible.. Hard to say from the video but some vertical partion of the concrete wall could have been hammered out in a vertical fashing a few inches wide/ deep or so to allow for pipe.. then the water line pathway, could be piped, refinished with a concrete patch and painted for a fully finished out look.
@@hanoveroak understand. Both PEX and CPVC are susceptible to UV light damage over time. PEX more problematic from what I have read on the subject. Both will discolor. All of this as we know are small comprises here and there with pros and cons each. Make a part 2 video with pipes exposed on the walls being protected in the wall.. as an upgraded project. ..and more youtube view counts 👍🤔💥🏆😎
He likes Sharkbite too much: Unfortunately, he couldn't get his tool to maneuver correctly, orherwise. I can understand using it to get usage going--then, wisely redo, later. Why worry about failure, later on--even if one can continually inspect it? (Ultltimately, failure is inevitable.) Sharkbite is a genius product, nevertheless....
i'm a believer in Pex now, damn you! Ha Ha i want to help my pops and finish the old risers he left Galvi in the walls from the crawlspace copper change years ago. Figue I can more easily take a few bathrooms and misc one at a time incorporating shut offs as I go and not break my bank, back or time clock. Thanks, I think Ha Ha
Great video, thanks for sharing! The tools list is very handy, will purchase mines from your referral list. I am starting a similar project. It seems you left PEX visible instead of pushing it inside the wall. What was your reasoning? Any reason why you did not use a manifold? Did you attach the cold/hot PEX lines to your water heater?
Thanks for the support! I was unable to put the PEX behind the walls without ripping out drywall or cutting channels in the block walls. It just made more sense in my scenario to keep it insulated and external. I did not need a manifold because this wasn't a home run system. Just a basic hot and cold run with branches off the main trunks for the supplies to each room. I have not relocated the hot water heater yet, but yes I will be running PEX to it except for the last 18 inches. That will be metal flex pipe meant for connection to hot water heaters. They make them with PEX connections on one end which makes it super easy.
Copper is 60 years old and you’re telling me the PEX is better? Lol PEX has like a 25 year warranty. It’s a more affordable and easier to install system, doubt it will outlast copper.
Push to fit has a 25 year warranty. I live in philly where copper freezes and bursts. Whenever I get a new rental as soon as I put a new roof on it I rip out the copper and replace it with pex
My water is acidic - even with a softener, I had to replace copper pipes that we're eaten thru by corrosion - I'll take pec over copper any day. Plus when my copper froze in the garage, I had a nice waterfall when the thaw came in...replaced with PEX.... Still holding.
That Apollo PEX pipe is made in China. Let that marinate. Is it really worth it not to use the best PEX pipe you can find? Which is Sioux Chief PEX A? In my area, a pipe reroute is $2500.00. Ever priced carpet these days? If you get flooded out from a pipe leak....... You need to get drastic on your water lines.
A lot of PEX products were very hard to find at the time this video was filmed. That being said, the Apollo has been great and I know others that have had it installed for years with no issues whatsoever. I will tell you this - it's MUCH better than the 60 year old copper that was there before! THAT is an accident waiting to happen!
You got a point with that scenario. Got to have water. I have old copper pipes as well. 4 under slab leaks later at the tune of $2500 per leak.... LOL @@hanoveroak
@@hanoveroak Ok you got me there. 60 year old copper...... Copper has a 50 year ON PAPER lifetime. What is it for PEX like 20-25? Sioux Chief I think is a Lifetime Pex pipe warranty? Check me on that.
@@User-2734-eck1 OKC just north of you. I'm talking about ONE pipe reroute not a total repipe just so we are clear. So you lost cold to the kitchen? Here it STARTS at $2500 bucks.
Pex already is failing and class action lawsuits are already starting. My copper pipes will outlast pex it's the new poly beautalene just different name
Thanks for the video. I'm also in FL and repiping my 1957 Ranch through my attic with PEX. Got up in my attic yesterday and boy I thought I had a tight spot. I think I'll opt for the Milwaukee tool as I'm sure I'll need to mess with PEXa again. Great job!
