@@KeepOnWrenching A disc made of several layers of fabric on a drill, and some wax, could have done it in 1/10 of the time, and it would look like chrome when you are done
@@Pianissimo1970 depends on the oxidation and or scratches. On something in bad shape you got to have something that will really cut into it and make it smooth.
Bud, half the work can be cut by brushing on some MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) nearly all aluminum engine covers and cases have thick layer of clear coat keeping it from corrosion and pitting. Now, when you get it polished, you need to hit it with clear unless you want to watch it pit over all again as soon as you ride the bike in the rain. The acid nature of waters will pit that up in no time if you don’t shoot it with clear.
I am doing the wheels on my truck. Very large project. Two things which helped to start were, Turtle wax coarse buffing compound and an aluminum polish which contains an acid which works well. Love the informative videos, keep 'em coming.
You sound enthused about doing this and I do as well. You have more than earned the right to buy yourself a corded 2” DA which can sand, buff and polish.The DA will do the work in 30 seconds what would take you 10 mins. No hand pain. They cost a few hundred bucks but a must have on a restoration project such as this. You do some very nice work
@@KeepOnWrenching And that anyone can do it with tools! And you've got all the tools of the craft to shift from one thing to the next, which is awesome, Totally appreciate that and your enthusiasm, and that you sound like Jack Black which is totally awesome, the wizard stuff was cool
P. S I also made my own drill tool. I cut many small pieces of denim and used a hole punch to make a hole in the middle. I would use a bolt and nut through the centre with a washer each side. You will end up with a realy tough polishing tool you can put in a drill. You apply a cutting compound of your choice. Works great for many jobs.
I was polishing parts 30 years ago but we used a polishing wheel maybe four inches wide, this was still a small machine from what there is out there. I never tried removing the first level of material with a soda blaster, but I sure would try it. Im all about blasting through the initial steps with power, but its all about what you can be satisfied with.
Great video. I was trying to explain to my brother in law. That he can get his bike to look awesome. This video will help convince him. Again thanks and keep em coming
Thanks from Australia. I used paint stripper to first take off the clear coat on the engine side panels on my Honda CB250. Saves a bit of time sanding but it's still a long and tedious job. Used 1200 and 2000 grit wet and dry to get the last traces of oxidation off. Last operation was to hit it with Mother's aluminium paste then resprayed with enamel clear coat.
Yeah, bud….this dude has never used Methyl Ethyl Ketone to remove the factor clear and a cotton wheel on his bench grinder along with a bar of white rouge. I could have that points cover finished like a mirror in about five minutes.
after seeing Wizards polish here i bought some, sent to australia didnt take long to arrive and was AUD$39 it has done many jobs and should last at least a yr longer great stuff and value
I call this "cold polishing"... very good results but with a high time deficit. When I polish, I only go to 400 - 600 grit at the smoothest. But i will then use rouge compound on a mop and then switch to a super fine compound on a mop. If you don't have a decent bench or hand polisher (£££££) Then this is by far the best method. Thank you for sharing.
That was an impressive transformation. 👍 Also... I am one of those guys that painted his cover. I’m going blue anodized to make the motor be the focal point of the bike.
Consider hitting it with a solvent like acetone, naphtha or carb cleaner before you get started. You can use a random orbit sander to do the first grit before switching to hand sanding. After you're done, clean it thoroughly with acetone again and then paint it with Engine Enamel to keep it looking fresh for years.
You can use a fine flat file and probably get those deep scratches out. You have to blend it into the surrounding area to avoid flat or low spots. Do the scratch removal before any polishing. Watch you don't remove the nice edge all around the cover by sanding in one spot too long. Good job.
Good job man. I am restoring a ‘70 Kawasaki Trail Boss. I parked it in my dads shed when I went in the service 50 years ago. I had forgot it was even there. All in all it is in pretty good condition. The spokes, (they are a REAL pain) chrome springs over the rear shocks, the handle bars, the chrome ring on the headlight, have rusted and pitted pretty good. The rims themselves rusted very little and cleaned up well. I was thinking I would get the other parts re-chromed, but I am trying to restore it back to original though. The only thing not original is the rear tire. I have labored for hrs and hrs and hrs. I am going to get me the products you used and give them a try. Thanks
@@KeepOnWrenching Good question on the spokes btw! Do you attack spokes the same way with wet & dry? I read somewhere that doing that will only cause them to rust faster...your opinion?
Yeah spokes are tricky. I would go to aggressive there. Steel wool 000 at most. Sorry I missed this reply and for the delayed response. I hope you’re still making progress.
zhukie I thought of that too. I waxed them after each session. I think I may end up having to replace the spokes. It took a lot of work using 0000 steel wool but got the springs cleaned up pretty good. The handle bars shined up pretty well but do have some pits in them. The headlight ring is the same.
Enjoyed seeing your process, though it kind of triggered some PTSD from how much time I’ve spent on a 32-foot 1950 vintage aluminum trailer. I kept trying to imagine taking on that project by hand and it literally made my stomach turn. I know you’re trying to show folks how it’s done on the cheap, but time is money and $500 worth of tools and another $100 in polishing compounds would take this job down from three months to three weeks. Plus, no carpal tunnel syndrome - although the polishers definitely take some new muscle memory to be really effective. I think I spent $200 on a new Dewalt 7-9” 13 amp polisher, $120 on a vintage Cyclo polisher and another $100 to have it refurbished (they’re like $450-500 new), and then $65 on a HF dedicated buffer for smaller parts. The 70 years of oxidation, dried silicone, old paint and tar-like crud was so thick, I started out with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Then four stages of Nuvite and/or Brightwork compounds turned the heavy scratches into a mirror finish. Dirty, hard work with endless amounts of black grit to be cleaned out of pads and towels. But the trailer was transformed. Now I use the same techniques, on a far smaller scale, on my 1972 BMW R75/5 moto.
I spray aluminum brightener on my stuff. Rinse it off after 30 sec or so. Use 3m's 3 stage metal polishing compound then use never dull and for me it works a lot faster and comes out looking like a mirror. The difference is, my method doesn't get out all of the imperfections in the metal but when polished up, I barely notice them. I mean I really have to be looking for them.
Vid is cool bro, theres many areas where sandpaper may help small areas but for larger parts it’s well into the money in paper to use a bench buffer. However you need to research those before buying its nice to have dual speed and several sand, cutting and buffing wheels. I say this for less time, to get show quality polishing ( and carpal tunnel ) good job hope your bike comes out great
Just a tip it helps to use a little detergent in the water like a few drops of dish washing liquid. Give it a try next time. We even did that rubbing back new paint jobs. Rik
I use a bench grinder with the guards removed and a rubber expander wheel and various grades of abrasive belts from the Eastwood Co. This is to smooth out imperfections or damage on aluminum parts. I restore vintage bikes and it is a big time saver. Once the part is ready, I have a dedicated polisher with various grades of buffing wheels and 4 or 5 different compounds. Each wheel and abrasive is different and as you showed, start off course and work your way to as fine as you want. I do stock restorations so I don't buff aluminum parts to look like chrome. The 60s and 70s bikes had their parts quickly polished then clear coated. Which brings me to one last point. Rather than trying to sand or buff clear coat off, I use automotive paint stripper which saves a lot of time and effort. Very informative videos! I just discovered them and will be watching more!
If you're hand sanding something small like that. Put it in a tray full of water and continually dip your paper in that as you sand. That cleans the paper and the surface at the same time. Your paper will last longer and cut better.
I like to use a Dremel with some homemade disc on a cutting wheel mandrel. I use Velcro to hold sand paper on. And at the slowest speed. Also add some dishsoap it seems to stay longer and not be thrown off as bad, from the speed of the dremmel.
Good advice on the gloves, they're an absolute must, aluminum is toxic and absorbs easily into skin once sanded so finely. I just spent about 30+ hrs doing this on a set of rims but it was worth it, they look better than new. I had to start with 100 grit in order to sand the machining grooves out, it gets easier with each step up. Finished with mother's aluminum polish and they mimic a chrome finish it's so mirrored.
I am in same process. My personal opinion is the Blue Magic polish was more effective than the Mothers. I used Scotch brite pads and they were effective as well. I honestly have no idea how I’m going to do those inner wheel spindles.
You don't have to get to a mirror bright finish, but that's just my opinion. Mothers mag wheel polish is the best thing out there. I've been using it for over 35 years and found nothing better.
Love me a Dremel but those bits get spendy and the cheap ones don’t last. Plus I find it kind of relaxing. If I was getting paid by the hour I’d definitely expedite the process.
@@KeepOnWrenching I agree it's very soothing and relaxing to me too, but what about using a vapor blaster, I'm about to invest in one, do you think it's a good idea? Maybe I could save some effort
If your going to wet sand with a little water add a drop or two of dish soap it keeps the sand paper cleaner and also let's it sand easier it acts like a lubricant I always do this when I'm wet sanding ...
Hey Brain first off want to say thanks for doing these videos, especially how you show your mistakes as well, just how videos should be when learning this stuff like I am....Anyway just a quick question on why you didn't Sandblast your engine parts, a buddy of mine said you can sandblast Aluminum, as long as its like baking soda, or walnut shells.....Just curios, of if you didn't know you could do that wanted to give you a heads up for next time...I haven't watch any other videos yet besides the CL project up to this video now.... just to let you know also you gave me the confidence to just get a old bike and start working on it like you have and will start this spring if I can find something similar....Thanks Brotha!
I have been treating the engine as a completely different project on this build. I’ll get to the engine. I’ll be featuring vids on cleaning that up for sure. I want to get it to a rolling frame first. Glad you are getting some inspiration from the vids. Trying to be as detailed as possible. Long way to go but I think I’m over the hump. I’ll look into options on cleaning the engine. I’d love to just blast it. I like to take my time on the other stuff as I love that polished aluminum look. Blasting tends to leave a bit of a more matte looks. Good luck with your project bike. Go get it.
Start your process with phenol and hot water and fine scotch brite wash it off and examine your part.you’ll save a lot of w/d paper.change direction at each grit change.dial buff with sheep skin and good car polish.enjoy👍👏
Hey man I almost threw my ohone at the end it was so damn shiny like a mirror. I have a question. Can I hire you to polish my aluminum RC chassis and wheels? If not how do you recommend doing this on some small aluminum RC wheels? It would be difficult to go in a circle motion inside the wheels. Great tutorial video!
when you do a lot of them,like i did for 50 years,you learn that time expended could be used more effectively elsewhere,when it came to these pieces,i usually had them walnut shelled or soda blasted,then attack with abrasives,then always ends in polishing,machine type,perfection takes longer,1 bikes gotta be worth it
Never heard of Colonel Brassy,you ever used simichrome? stuff is amazing, im restoring a 550 and the casings are not as bad as yours but not far from them either, i used some 1000 grit and then polished them with simichrome,they look really nice,all done by hand,they dont look as nice as the one here but good enough for me.
Seems to me someone has made tools that do all that HAND work you did which cuts the time down, though it is still time consuming. I polished 2 forks on my MC and it took me 3 days using a wheel buffing grinder pad and polish sticks. After I was done, I used SHARKHIDE on the forks to prolong the look. Wax might last a few months but sharkhide lasts years. It is a non yellowing clearcoat finish that is NOT CHEAP but works most excellently.
@@KeepOnWrenching Ok but would you like to prolong that process or simply continue to waste time after time doing it over and over ? Insanity is defined as doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.
@@KeepOnWrenching LOL, everyone ? Anyone can afford a harbor freight oscillating tool that makes quick work of polishing using a custom made plastic adapter attached to it ..... far easier and faster. Time is money and I do not waste either one.
@@anonimous2451 for some it’s one-and-done project. Fixing up their dad’s old bike or something. Simply saying that there are many means to an end. When I recorded this I didn’t have many tools but still wanted to get things dine and make progress. It wasn’t a race. More of a process. Since then, I’ve added many tools because I do many bikes…for some, some sand paper, time, a beer and football game makes for a cheap yet rewarding experience.
There is no point in polishing aluminum/aluminium or any other alloy unless you clear coat it afterwards or plan to polish every season. It will corrode 10 times faster than from factory, in two-three years it will be even worse than what you stated with. Look at Royal Enfield bikes.
Really informative! Do you throw the microfiber cloths in the washing machine and use them again? Will the metal particles wash out? I’m working on a 1975 CB200T. Keep up the good work!
I do wash them and reuse them but completely separate from everything else and on a "deep wash" cycle. I haven't noticed any issues with the washer or anything by doing so. The first time I did it I was a little nervous though. lol Just keep them all separate from everything else. Thanks for watching and I'm glad you found the video helpful. Good luck with the 75 Cb200. Make it shine like new! :)
I wouldn't recommend a washing machine as the fine aluminum has a chance of lingering. I just use a pail with dish soap and a high pressure hose. Either does work tho.
Love The Video Mate Need To Do This On My VTR 1000F Firestorms Front Forks Any Advice ? My Easy Way Out Was Black Or Silver Hammerite Paint BUT I Like Shiney :) And Like Your FINISHED RESULT! :) PS I Have An Electric Screw Driver And Felt Tips Any Help Would Be Grateful Sir..:) Made In Japan Polished At HOME:)
Should wear a mask and safety glasses. Definitely change water between grits and clean surfaces around or lower grits will contaminate and you won’t get rid of scratches.
Benjamin Root I roll up a small piece of sandpaper really tight and work it into those grooves. It’s slow going but it can be done. Just work your way through the different grits. I hope this helps.
There are a couple other tricks you can try: Get a couple old drill bits that are smaller than the holes you are trying to clean up. Wrap the bit with steel wool 000 or 0000 and carefully let it revolve in the hole. You may need different size bits. Check the wool to make sure you have enough wool never to allow the bit to come into contact with the bolt hole. You can put a wad of steel wool considerably larger than the bit, it will compress into the hole. You can also do the same thing with a Dremel tool and various polishing pads and inserts and compounds. Just let the tool carefully revolve with its pad or bit. It is trickier with a Dremel tool because of the speed.
Be careful about mixing metals … aluminum and steel, etc. The parts manufacturers go to great lengths to keep metals separate in the manufacturing process. You don’t want to embed foreign debris into the part. Great video! Thanks for taking the time to do it! Really satisfying for us to see the finished (portion of the) product too!
How I'd do it, covering up the threads with tape, & sand blast it, & powder coat paint it, good powder coating is damn strong, can even use it on the bikes springs
Some were but these were typically clear coated. Just do what you wanna do. I love clean, polished, and maintained aluminum. Clear coat sucks on these…lol
Wow, Brian! that is "Brilliant"! I reckon that my XS650 is actually as bad if not worse, but you've given me hope. Would I be lazy if I used an Orbital Sander for each grade, or is that a stupid question?
If you have the means and the space give it a try. Just be careful breathing in the dust. Not good. I like a more gentle approach to things. You never know until you try.
I have a xs850. And the person before me painted over the chrome. And it's a air cooled motor. Is it possible to remove the paint and be able to buff it good enough to get the chrome shine out of it.
Absolutely. Some paint stripper or thinner will take the paint off then you can polish it to a shine. I just stripped clear coat off some hubs and they are polishing up great! Stripping it saved a lot of sanding time too.
Absolutely. Some paint stripper or thinner will take the paint off then you can polish it to a shine. I just stripped clear coat off some hubs and they are polishing up great! Stripping it saved a lot of sanding time too.
Absolutely. Some paint stripper or thinner will take the paint off then you can polish it to a shine. I just stripped clear coat off some hubs and they are polishing up great! Stripping it saved a lot of sanding time too. Go get it.
Thanks for the tip! I have noticed during the couple of years I can go to a buffer sooner. At the time I recorded this I didn’t have a wheel. I do now and it makes the process so much easier!
If I also wanted to repaint the “Honda” part of that cover, when do you suggest that would happen, before the aluminum and then sand up to it when polishing, or after and clean off the excess paint?
The difference is amazing. I'm trying to rebuild my grandpa's 1982 Honda cb650sc nighthawk in memory of him and was planning on replacing a lot of items but after seeing this video, I think I'll try to save as much as possible. How do you know what material everything is made of? Like rims, forks, e.t.c
next time try a brass brush and nonwoven. You will be surprised.... The magic is not to get it shiny, the magic is how to stay shiny....the issue is with you wax that the engine gets hot and the wax will melt away soon...
