I like that all or nearly all is simply held in place by lines & knots. Easier to adjust or replace and with minimum drilling of spars which weakens them.
Hi Stephen! This is not a "how-to" video but although this is MY way of rigging my GIS, if it gives ppl a few pointers, I will be very happy about it!😉
Building my own sailing tender, and just starting to get to rigging. I know nothing about rigging, but this video gave me a lot of insight into the small details. Very well done!
Enjoyable learning from how you set up your boat. Efficiency of simple approach, solving complex challenges through practice and time is valuable knowledge!
Thanks Zacharias! I'm all for trying things out, making mistakes, learning and having fun while we're here!!! I have found that simplicity and good fun go hand in hand most of the times... 😁
Thanks Teo, a lot of interesting tips and solutions for a best rigging. Your videos are really valuable! Waiting for Part 2 now: I need to try the lazy Jack in MIRA...
Quick question. Is the traveler on the mainsheet essential? What does it achieve. It is to change angle of the mainsheet to pull more downwards on the boom to keep the sail shape? Curious if this is why I am struggling to point to wind very well?
Hi Jason! The Balanced lug sail doesn't have a dedicated boom vang so yes the traveler is really important and it will allow you to control the sail shape better by keeping the boom lower, more tension on the leech and less twist on the top of the sail. As a result the boat should point much better.
Hi Teo, I am just fitting out my Viola 14 with the lug sail. How far along the yard do you put the spectra loop for the halyard before running it forward to the throat of the sail?
Hi Greg! I have never rigged a Viola so I can't really help you with that. Look for the Storer Boat Plans FB group, I'm sure the guys and the designer will be very helpful with any questions/issues you might have! 😉
Thanks for the great video! As I can see the yard and the boom do not made of wood. It looks like fiberglass tubes. Am I right? Please suggest the right material for boom & yard. (I’m building the Goose now )
Hi! Congratulations on the build! The Goose is an awesome boat! The boom and yard are made from windsurf masts leftovers, some are 70% carbon and some 100% carbon. I joined the two bases to make the boom and the two top sections to make the yard. You can have a look on this video where I make the boom. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3O9VXzIXM5M.html Good luck with the build. 💪
I enjoy your videos. Looking for a new boat and am wondering what you think of a flat bottom boat? Pounding in a lumpy water while sailing and at anchor.
Hi Kim! The flat bottom is not a big problem when sailing as you can always allow the boat to heel a bit more and the chine turns it into a V bottom boat. Have a look here for some choppy conditions, in particularly on the return trip : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q3VKbF3Nln8.html At anchor it doesn't "pound" since the bow is quite sharp and it's close to the water, but it does rock quite a bit and it's kind of noisy.
Hi Teo, thanks for your videos, great stuff, keep it up! I'd like to know more about the pulleys, ropes, and other rigging hardware you use. Could you share some information about brands or types, and sizes? Thanks in advance and enjoy the new season!
Hi Bengo! I just answered this on a different video! 😂 " The pulleys are mainly Harken 30mm and a 40mm for the halyard (I already had these from previous dinghies). The Ratchet block is also Harken 57mm (again, had it already). At the top of the mast I have an Allen Eazy Tie 20mm block, and on the outhaul a Barton size0 cheek block. The outhaul is just 5mm double braided poly. The Halyard is 5mm spectra with outer poly sleeve. Sail corners tied to the yard with 3mm Spectra and around the yard with single braided 3mm poly. Mainsheet is Kingfisher’s Evolution 8mm. Traveller is 6mm double braided poly, Tiller lock is now 3mm single braided Spectra. Downhaul is 4 mm Double braided poly on the 4:1(Barton's 30mm double blocks) and 60 cm of 4mm Spectra for the x2 (Harken 30mm) top pulley to make a 8:1 downhaul. Reefing loops and dog bones are 3mm Spectra. Bleater is 5mm Spectra. Reef ties single braided 3mm poly. Lazyjacks are made of 3mm and 4mm Poly line. I think this should cover most of it.. If you want the official BoM for the GIS scroll down on this page. www.storerboatplans.com/tuning/lug-rig-setup/goat-island-skiff-rig-and-rigging-details-for-efficient-lug-sails/ " Have fun 😉
Great video again, really enjoyed watching your journey with Forger! How do you ensure that the mast do not lean to one or the other side/ for or aft? Or is this a minor topic on a lug rig?
Thank you Florian! The gap at the mast partner/step is not much . The mast might be allowed to move a few centimeters at the top but it's not relevant. Same happens on any unstayed mast, like on the Laser or the Finn, which bends a lot more than the GIS mast 😁
Very nice video! I am wondering, how is the boom kept in position? You talked about it needing plenty of downwards tension, but what is preventing it from falling down? I don't know a lot about sailing, but I'm eager to learn :)
The sail is attached to the yard which is hoisted to the top of the mast by the halyard which in turn is secured on the camcleats. So I guess you can say the halyard holds the sail up! 🤔
As RU-vid's local expert on the Goat Island Skiff, do you think it could be rigged as a standing lug (without a boom) instead without losing a ton of power? I was thinking about building one to help people learn how to sail, but I always worry about newbies taking a boom to the noggin.
Hi Evan! I'm by no means an expert, some of the guys have sailed a GIS for decades while I'm only on my second season! I have no idea about standing lugs but on the GIS's current rig you can always set the first reef and leave the yard at the mast top. That will give you lots height under the boom and still a lot of sail to play with.
Hi Nando, The yard is made of two tips of windsurf masts joined together and the boom is the bases of the masts also joined together. Check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3O9VXzIXM5M.html
Hey John! I have used polyester/nylon rope on the GIS boom and yard and I'm quite happy with it. Also around this area the traditional wrap on the lateen rig yard is made of rope. You can see that wrap here on this video of Princesa's brailing lines. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O_s9eG2TA_M.html
It's interesting how complex (possibly just appearances) sail rigging is even on a single sail. Obviously once you are used to it I suspect it isn't complex at all.
Hi, I tie the bleater so that the tack of the sail stays around 25cm from the front of the mast. Then I place the downhaul maybe 3 inches from the aft face of the mast.
the sail can also be attached along the boom, it's called a "fixed foot sail". When it's attached only at the clew and tack on the boom (like in this video) it's called a "Loose Foot sail" . On the loose foot sail the depth of the sail can be controlled using the outhaul and it provides more power and better shape/performance in different winds.
@@TheBoatRambler I was thinking of buying a whole bunch of 3/16 (5mm?) line for wrapping and then whatever else might come up. I could use this weight for tying sails on etc.
Hi Terry, Maybe because you're not familiar with it. Once you rig the yard and boom they stay rigged, and if you transport every thing rigged in the boat it should take about 5 minutes to put the mast up and launch the boat. It is also very simple to hoist and lower sail while sailing, simple to reef etc.
