I've come back to tell of my amateur roofing experience, and to reinforce the warning given in this video series. To preface, I'm a 36 year old capable Carpenter in good shape. I'm also generally handy and a good problem solver. I decided to help my neighbor out after she was unable to afford the high roofing quotes she had received. The roof is a little over 1000sqft (10 square) and is from 1927. I did everything on my own and it took me 53 hours over 6 days, which does not include shopping trips. When you're not working on a new structure, there are many issues you can run into. There were rotten boards and rafters to deal with; issues with transitioning between additions; oversized roof protrusions that needed expensive flashing; a lot of nails to pound from previous cedar shake shingles; sunken roof (which is hard to snap a line on); uneven line along the gutter edge, which makes it difficult getting your 1/4"-3/4" reveal consistent. There's also the issue of tools. I borrowed some tools, and bought a bigger used compressor. The compressor broke, but thankfully I was able to borrow one. The stapler broke as well. I dropped the borrowed nailer off the roof once, but thankfully it was fine. There were power lines and trees that didn't allow materials to be delivered to the roof, so a ladder hoist might be necessary. I was able to make a simple one out of plywood and rope with a spare ladder. I say this because these are potential costs incurred. Of course I ran short on materials. Renting a dumpster makes sense, as you probably won't save much money driving several loads to the landfill. Another important topic to mention is your health. I'm currently icing my right arm, as my fingers are numb from all the nailing and cutting shingles. That little button on the hook knife has destroyed my thumb. Walking on a steeper pitch was hard on my back, legs, and feet. I didn't fall, but I thought about jumping at some points 😆 In summary, I will never do a roof again and this is now on the top of the list of shitty jobs I've done. The good: No rain meant I didn't have to tarp; the weather was unseasonably nice; I got fed; I learned a valuable lesson; and I respect roofers even more.
Thank you very much for that comment! I'm sorry you had such a rough time but I appreciate you explaining to others that the warning in the beginning is no joke. I'm all about people saving money with my videos but they're not really meant for DIYers. Funny thing is I absolutely would've said you qualify to diy a roof IF it was your own but recommended against doing it for someone else, especially if there's cedar shake involved. You're a good man though. Thank you again for the comment.
I'm doing one by myself right now and it sucks but it's a 800 sqft house. I really wish I had a couple guys to help out. I bet with two more capable hands and cutting that job time in half you would have found it less taxing on your body. I know my back is gonna hurt tomorrow but I have to get started on the shingles 😬
The one thing I have learned from working on an old house is that EVERYTHING takes at least twice as long as you expect. Even if you allow twice as long, it going to take twice as long as that. If you are living in the house at the time of work, it's going to take even longer than that.
I did our family house roof in 1987. I was 23. Not a job I really wanted to ever do again, but it held up extremely well until we sold the house 34 years later. The roofer that inspected it, said "This is a GOOD roof!" I used the BEST materials at the time, the cost difference was $800. No brainer. Well..... my new house needs a new roof.... but with quotes of $45,000 for very average product, It looks like I'll be doing another roof at 60! At least I KNOW it'll be done well, with high quality materials. NOT looking forward to it, but what are ya gonna do. And I'll have all summer to do it. I plan for it to be my LAST roof.
I love the comment. I am in the same situation, I helped with the roof of our house in my early 20's, now in my 50's it's time to redo it. It's just too expensive but now I can afford to use the best materials and have a lot more wisdom in diy. Best of luck and much respect.
May I make a suggestion? I'm not a roofer, but I AM very handy and can a lot re home repair and maintenance. When applying the rain/ice barrier sheets, I noticed that you recommend rolling it and bending it over the edge of the plywood to make the cut mark/guide. To make it even easier---for those who have anxiety about heights and are worried about not being able to see the cut guide clearly---color the plywood edge with white chalk before you roll and push the ice barrier over it. The chalk will transfer from the plywood to the barrier sheet when you press it over the edge. When you gather it back towards yourself, you'll see a white line---thus a more clear, defined line as a cut guide. ;)
20 year roofer hear. I don't like bashing others who are trying to be helpful, and for the most part, you are spot on. Those corners though, man. I know you can do better than that. Always wrap the bottom around the corner, and run flush on your rakes. Roof on brother!
Today I did my first shingle job. This video was what I base my process on and had very little scap. I am sore and glad it's done. Thanks for sharing. Semper Fidelis
I roofed at 14 in 1996. We big plastic headed tac nails. The guys doing houses across from us used staples. High winds came through 3 summers later. My step dad called me and asked "guess whose rooftops stayed together?" Ours did. If you do it. Spend the extra time and don't use staples ever.
Cap nails won't keep shingles from blowing off a roof. They probably used only 3 nails in the shingles or used nails that were too short, or both. Good job on that roof though. Definitely no place to cut corners.
If you are talking about using cap nails to attach underlayment, that has nothing to do with shingle strength. Roofers have been using a hammer tacker since roofing started.
I loved the way you explained it all. At the beginning of your video, you said that this video was important to you and I would say that you delivered it and did a very good job. You were calm, confident, knowledgeable and having good attitude. I wish you the best. Cheers from Manitoba, Canada.
I wanted to let you know I appreciate the videos you've made. Last summer, after watching *a ton* of your clips, I took the plunge and completely rebuilt a Florida room's roof at my house (replaced water damaged sub-roofing, repaired rotten truss elements, etc). The roofing work turned out beautifully, due in very large part to your channel. I'm positive it took me 5x longer to do than a professional would have taken, but I don't care. It doesn't leak, even in the heaviest rains, and I admire the perfection of the architectural shingle placement from the second floor almost every morning. Thank you for sharing the basic and finer points of your craft with us.
@@NWIVeteranConstruction LOL I did chalk off every other shingle line, because I was terrified of losing control of the layout and it looking like shit. I admire people who can use roofing-fu gained from long experience and just get it right.
I just finished reroofing my 1600sqft house with a 4/12 pitch. About as typical as it gets. Took a month and a half working half days (that's all my body can take) and I had to tarp it three times for light rain. Had to remove Hardishake (PITA) and add OSB decking and asphalt shingles so it was a complete job. Turned out awesome and the inspector was very impressed with the work. I watched a lot of videos to figure out what was good and bad and took my time. If I can do it most anyone can. 8-)
Don't know much about roofing, but was thinking about doing a repair on our house . I came across ur video. Thank you for taking the time to help us to try n do it ourselves. My dad passed and he was the one who maintenance the house. Its hard to find someone who won't take advantage of 3 women. I think u did a great job 😉 I hope your arm is doing good nu recovered.... Sandra
I am currently doing my 3rd roofing job that I have done during my lifetime. I want to thank you for doing this video. I like the part about how to cut shingles .
This is a fantastic explanation ! I'm guessing many people haven't heard of gutter apron yet. Love finding videos in which contractors are using newer, better designed and properly updated products. Don't be stubborn people - start using gutter apron. I'm about to do a roof for the first time myself - picking up gutter apron today !
@@Chris-uv4jw It's bc he's not using drip edge at the lower eave of the roof. You've never heard of gutter apron bc it's fairly new. There is a big difference between drip edge and gutter apron. Just bc you haven't seen or heard of it - doesn't make it a unicorn.
@@turnsufficient4971 It’s also because it’s commonly called eave flashing, not gutter apron. It’s not some new thing, it’s drip edge with a different profile.
I wish you well! Welcome to my world lol enjoy and don't do any guess work! Know you're right AND WHY before installing to avoid complications with the roof
@@NWIVeteranConstruction we we’re stressing about having to pay for a new roof after all the costs were incurring until coming across your video series. It gave me the confidence to learn snd do it myself. Spent 3hrs last night taking notes and soaking up as much knowledge from you as I can
I really appreciate your videos. Nice to get a great updated way of how to roof. I watched your vids and then went and roofed my building. It went so smooth and hardly any waste. Thanks bro
Fantastic! I learned almost everything I know from watching your videos up to now and did my 4th (and finally close to perfect) roof this Summer, with a glass porch coming off the eave and a discontinuity (large roof tied into a small bedroom) at the rake. I have lived with leaks between the eave and the glass porch for 22 years and finally I fixed as part of the new roof job. Thanks for doing this ground up video series!
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I was going to mention that the roofing detail where a small roof ties in at the rake (Think continuous roof on one side but the small roof peaks halfway up the gable of the larger roof). That detail is almost impossible to find anywhere on line. I figured it out (cut a slot in the sheathing at the peak of the small roof, back to the wall and run the ridge cap into the slot). If you could demonstrate that at some point it might help some folks out.
Thanks.. my second roof is ready to go.. I did a shed years ago.. Now doing a screen room.. I got the ice water shield and drip edge ready to go in the garage, starter strips and the synthetic.. Shingle order I still have to pick up at the store so I got a pretty big job this weekend.. Thanks for posting this my friend!
As a 3rd generation roofer with 20 years experience this man is bang on. If I could add anything is that in many states and for me provinces the manufacture of your shingles asks you use their ice and water and paper. The importance of this even tho it often costs more is that if something ever did go wrong you have done everything to manufacturers specs and they are then responsible. Always do 2 rows of ice and water underlay and some low pitch roofs ask for the entire roof to be ice and watered (3/12 and below) if you have followed these specs also make sure to have sufficient ventilation which I almost always suggest ridge vent and make sure your soffits are open to your attic and not blocked by insulation.
Doing a roof on a new front porch, and these videos have been so helpful! Like the way you explain it with no b.s. appreciate you taking the time out of your day to show this! Thank you!
Great video. I'm getting estimates now for my new roof. This is so helpful that even as an older woman with zero carpentry skills I almost feel like I could do it myself. Except that I can barely watch when you walk near the edge of that roof. With your back to the edge! Be careful!
I'm gearing up to redo some shingles on my house and I have been so afraid to do it.. but you give really clear instruction and I feel confident that it might not be as pretty as your work but I am atleast confident it will keep my house warm and dry with no leaks you really are cool dude.
right on just make sure you watch my next videos that will help on the shingling, have plenty of help, good weather, and a good game plan for tear off/ dry in
Great videos. I really like how you do it step by step and don't rush it. Learning a lot from your videos. I retired and live in Serbia. Have 2 houses so lots to do.
I feel like I should have paid for this video. Very helpful!! it's been 15 years since I've done a roof and I needed a refresher plus you are using some new materials I didn't know about. Thank you!!
Thanks X3 for sharing your video with us.... the world is already better with people like you, and I, and with great wise comments from all the great intelligent people commenting here .... I did quite a few roofs, learning from each to better profit while producing a line of satisfied customers that resulted in a long chain of free advertising that fortunately ended to better profit on my own properties .... your video and comments gave me pleasure remembering all the good times growing up in business
Guy seems to really know his stuff, impressive and much better detailed instruction and easy to listen to then other videos. I’m just a homeowner that wanted to learn more. My 24x72 garage has one side that is in horrible shape. Breaking and folding shingles, faded & weak. However the back side or slope is perfect, no issues. Listening to him, I’m thinking the front has severely had degranulated. My front gutter is full of shingle material. When installed, they put two twirling roof vents on back sloop, but the front sloop has none? Now wondering if the front should have had better venting? It is possible that the back doesn’t get as much sun because it’s closest to tree line? But all the more reason they should have maybe put the vents on front sloop instead? Interesting and every homeowner should watch this! The roof is about 20 years old, but I never understood why one side looks brand new, while the other is faded and breaking apart. I was thinking that side gets more sun, rain, weather etc. Now I’m wondering if the venting wasn’t right or ideal from the start!
ventilation is tricky. usually vents go on the back though. garages don't need a ton of ventilation but to each their own there i believe. intake and outake is very important if you end up looking into at all be sure to check into that. baffles and ridge vent are a good way to go but if the garage isn't insulated you just need to make sure your soffit is vented
In the comments of another video, a handyman said he gets a LOT of work replacing rotted fascia exactly because gutter apron has been installed flush with it. As water drips off the roof, there is a good chance that some will get wicked back up between the apron and fascia, rotting not only the fascia but the soffits too. The lesson, he says, is indeed to allow a 3/8-inch gap between the fascia and the apron to avoid that failure point. Otherwise he'll be keeping busy fixing roofer's mistakes. I think he has a point. I had a diffuse roof leak caused by wicking issues that took me a while to figure out what was happening. I fixe the wicking and fixed the problem.
Good job man. Your explanation throughout was very thorough and informative. Everytime you got near the edge I was on pins and needles. One mishap and No more roofing. Definitely shows your expertise and how comfortable you are on the roof. Learned a lot from this short video. Keep up the good work. 👍
Good to see you're on your way to learning! If the full length gutter apron piece were toward the house, the cut seam of the rear piece gets hidden under the factory end of the full length piece. This would be visible if no gutter is planned. You basically did that part of the install backwards compared to best practice.
This brings up a lot of questions about my roof that blew off a week ago in a storm. It was 10 years old and was supposed to be rated at 120 mph with six nails per square I think that’s what one shingle is called. But anyway insurance is paying for it it’s just a pain in the butt to deal with the contractors
35 year old tin snipper here with 50 years experience. Tab the drip edge around your rake corners just like you would fascia cap. It'll stop the water running down your rake from getting to that roof sheeting or fascia board.
Thank you, for these 3 parts of real man/world knowledge. My roof is very similar to this. so awesome reference material for me to fall back on if needed, and to show my helper when confusion may start to set in. Have a great day, rom Miracle Beach BC Canada.
Great video. Love your philosophy of making everything look good even if it will be tucked behind a gutter or something. Too many guys don't give a shit. I think it spills into the rest of their work.
Awesome video guys, I always wondered why I seen so many videos of roofing and they didn't cover the whole roof with tarpaper like the old days. But it makes sense for no need to. I also learned about the bottom edge and not using a regular drip edge. God bless
Great videos. Very informative with attention to detail. 1 clarification on overlap of drip edge, though it's not a big issue because I've seen everything from a 12 " lap to butting ends with no lap lol. From the 2021 International Residential Code-- "A drip edge shall be provided at eaves and rake edges of shingle roofs. Adjacent segments of drip edge shall be overlapped not less than 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edges shall extend not less than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) below the roof sheathing and extend up back onto the roof deck not less than 2 inches (51 mm)."
awesome video I would add if you don't mind when installing your ice barrier you put it under your gutter apron and 1 inch onto the fascia so ice dams don't go under your edge detail at the gutter
Actually you put the ice and water on After putting your drip edge (gutter apron as you call it) .. And the reason why, is because if any water were to get onto your ice and water, it would roll down the ice and water, hit the lip of your drip edge, and then fall into your gutter.. That's the correct way
@@timbibin1301 CertainTeed requires ice an water under for ice damned areas even if water goes under the self sealing product seals the nails and cannot get to your decking. If it's on top of your edge detail anytime the gutter backs up the water goes under your edge detail and onto your decking.
Thanks for this video. Lots of good explanations and reasons why things need to be done the way they are done. It helps with the theory of it all so when faced with a situation that doesn't exactly fit the example, we can still figure it out by applying the principle. Well done!
Love the video, and a lot of your stuff I’ve watched is great advice. I believe one I really liked was the new dormer build for a bathroom I believe it was? But in this k jjst want to comment, the ice shield should go first, and then the drip edge. I see how some people would want to think the water from the ice shield ahold run off the drip edge to not get behind the gutters. But the drip edge being above the ice shield would divert all rainwater and melting snow etc into the gutter as drip edge is meant to do. If there is ice damming and some water gets behind the drip edge, it will not enter the home it will still go between the fascia and eaves trough, which generally isn’t ideal year round, but in the one off circumstance of ice damming it won’t make a difference if water drips behind the eaves. The issue with drip edge metal first is that the end of the plywood isn’t sealed, and ice dams at the eaves will let water creep up behind the drip edge, where it can then attack the few inches of exposed plywood but also then drain behind the fascia metal at attack the fascia boards. And in some worst case scenarios I’ve seen the water that enters the aluminum fascia then get into the soffit. If the soffit was originally installed before the siding, so there isn’t siding behind the soffit j trim on the exterior wall then water gets from the aluminum fascia, into the soffit, and can run behind the siding, and possibly tyvek depending how the build was done. Edit to clarify I meant when the drip edge is above the ice shield as I believe to be best, is that all the rainwater and melting snow etc will drain off the shingles and over the drip edge still, which is it’s primary function.
Great suggestions, also, read the instructions on the synthetic you buy unless you use cap nails of 1" the warranty is voided on some brands, also read local building codes
Suggest looking at alternative details at the eaves ( and gables) to protect the natural Gap between the roof sheathing and fascia board. Especially in areas of ice dams and high winds 1. Place ice shield on sheathing over on to the fascia, then drip edge, or gutter extension on , then ice shield over everything. There are alternatives but this is easier.
True on the inspector, always make sure they accept that method. Last thing you want to do is rip off shingles to prove to your inspector you complied. It takes a long time and alot of inspections before your inspector will trust you.
@@NWIVeteranConstruction My city doesn't require it for reshingling. However my project of a total tear off and putting on new trusses replacung my rafters does require it though. Still a spring project, I'm hoping prices lower on lumber to make the trusses more affordable. 🤞
Nice zak! Neat and tidy 👌 Great tutorial. Appreciate u taking the time to teach and pass on some tricks of the trade. Keep on keeping on, from South Oz ✌
The one thing I figured out is: don't use 1 inch nails. They don't go in straight. Use 1 1/2s at least. I guess they get guided thru the gun better. I thought it was me or my nailer at first but as soon as I changed lengths I never had another problem.
Thanks for your incredible videos. I am roofing a cottage in MI and your videos are my "go to". The cottage was built in the early 1960's and has no roof vent, but instead gable vents. Not sure how many times it has been reroofed, but no one has ever cut a ridge vent, so I am guessing the gable vents are adequate?
Thanks a lot, I have 3 questions because I am doing my own roof once spring arrives and April showers clear out: 1. nail CAPS (vs. using staples or nails) won't let water thru ? 2. Doing a section at a time of my hipped roof. My first section looks like your neighbor's house at 5:47, do i need to roll out my Feltbuster the entire 60 feet or can I roll out 35-40, get it straight then overlap by a foot or two and continue to the end ??? 3. Does 30lb asphalt paper keep rain out better than Feltbuster ? It may take me 5 or 6 days to get this 1st large section entirely finished. Also I have wood slats, not plywood as house was built in 1960. thanks for any info....
Ok.. so It's 100 plus degrees out here in MS.. hell of a job my friend (not for old guys like me) but I persisted cause I need the roof watertight - first drip edge then .. I put down the STICKY water shield (a challenge by myself first time but it's ok).. then the manufactured wrap.. (nice cause it's wide).. so I should be good for a few days - no rain in sight.. I got my starter and shingle sets ready.. but Hell of a lot of work .. Gotta give you roofers some big props.. My area is only 12-x32 new extension on my house for a screen room but maybe it's the temperature or old age.. damn.. tough work.. I'm 61 years old and this my second 'roof' .. Gotta be the heat.. but I feel pretty beat up from all this..
Do you ever use the peel and stick stuff that goes around the perimeter of the roof? .. I think it goes down directly onto the plywood and is about 8” wide. Seems like once that is down and your starter row goes on top that would be pretty thick