I run 37's on my Wrangler now with 4.56 gears and it works beautiful. If you live anywhere where you will be on an interstate stay away from 5.13, your rpm's will be to high and forget gas mileage.
I'm on the turnpike probably every day of my life lol. Gas mileage is around 14mpg which could be worse and yes my rpms are at like 3k at 75 it's so nice to have power to pass people lol. I'm not sure I'd be able to do 4.56 in the rocks lol
@@SoFloJeeping I am on a Bullydog tune and an idrive throttle controller. They work well together. Also have the 3.6. If you're on the 3.8 may Jeep have mercy on your wallet.
I am glad I found your page, no my rig will never climb a volcano, but with some of your ideas, and some ideas from my Jeep group, I think I will be ok, course I always run into people who think they know everything, but half the fun is learning on the way. and no I'm not talking about you, you make suggestions and I watch your videos and pick out what makes sense for me, I don't think you know everything, but I think I love your Jeep
I definitely don't know everything lol. Just another place for people to grab knowledge to throw into their own collection! Glad you've been enjoying the channel!
Our jeep wrangler Rubicon jk 4door has lift Dana 60 with floating axels front and rear lockers and 513 gears and a hemi engine in it with a 8 speed automatic transmission. We get 13 to 14 miles per gallon of hwy running 75 and 80 miles per hour.
I’m buying a 2016 rubicon in 3 weeks I’m a beginner should I start with 35s or 37s? I’m gona use my Jeep mostly in the city and highways in New York and off-road In Pennsylvania. I will be towing jet skis every now and then.
I say 35 beens most of ur driving is on pavement. They will handle most off road trails u be on.later if u decide to become a more off roader than u could go to a larger tire size.we ran 35 with 410 gears worked great when we went to 38 next 410 gears ok but not good changed to 456 worked great when we went to 40 tires 456 was just ok so we changed from Dana 44 to Dana 60 went with floating axels and 513 gears works great with our set up.but we are running a hemi engine and 8 speed automatic transmission too.
Vks fab all the way! Nothing compares to the welds on them. Ive got vks front and rear bumpers and plan on doing their sliders and maybe eventually switching to the shorty rear. Top notch stuff and can't recommend them enough.
Thank you for the video. I'm having a hard time here deciding what to do and I'm trying to make it as cheap as possible. I have a JK and I'm running a six in a half inch lift and bringing it back down to a four inch suspension and I'm running 35s right now. I want to run 37s. I have a 30 axle up front. If I'm not a hard core wheeler but I like to flex and do some obstacles would you recommend me just get the Dana 44 or can I truss the 30 and still be good?
I dailied for 5 years on 33s, 35s, 37s, and 40s. Now I daily a truck and have fun in the jeep I never would have been able to have if it were still my daily.
Hello I have a 2014 Jk manual transmission 4dr, and today I pulled the trigger on some 37s . I have yet decided to either go with 3in lift with spacers, or 4in. My Jk is my daily driver, but once a year I trek down to the Smokies and drive the trails. I haven't done anything crazy because it's stock, but I do wish to start off in 37s. What do you recommend. I've looked at everything from tera-flex to old man emu brand and my Amazon cart is full. I imagine I will have to regear shortly after the install , but it's a starting point.Love to get your imput.
That depends on what you value more. Ground clearance or center of gravity. The 3 inch will give you a better COG but you'll need trimming bump stops to accommodate. The 4dr is long enough that it should stay pretty stable with a 4 inch. Have you looked into the rock krawler 3.5? I love it
Gerald- I have bought a 2011 JK Manual Sahara Unlimited and have 37s with a 4.5 inch lift a few weeks ago. There are a lot of things that will pop up and lead you to a few more additional needs if deciding to go to 37s. Unfortunately it is not just a lift kit and possible re-gear. If you decide to go anything over a 2.5 inch lift you will need to consider a few things . 1st, a Drag Link Flip kit to keep the geometry right for the steering. I can tell you that I am starting to see some problems that the 37s are causing due to the weight. I have the Sahara so it has the Dana 30 axle. The weight is starting to cause issues with the Tie Rod boots on the Draglink and the Tie Rod at the pitman arm (Steering). It needs bigger front brakes to get the stopping power back to stock. You will need to weld in some C Gussets to the axle and you will want to look into upgrading your ball joints. My Jeep has been re-geared to 4.88 but it also has the RIP Supercharger for that added boost. I would consider going 5.13 with the standard. If you keep the gearing stock, it will be a little slow. Also look into Front and Rear lower adjustable control arms, and an adjustable track bar. With a 3 or 4 inch lift you will need to get longer sway bar links as well. As for trimming, that will depend on your bumpers and fenders. I still need to trim the inner wheel well at the rear tire because it rubs at every bump. (I think the 2014 has a more rounded pinch seam compared to the 2011). Metal Cloak has a good video of how to trim it on YT. You may also consider a superchips or other brand of programmer that can adjust your speedometer for the bigger tires. Hit me up if you have any questions. I have posted a few videos of my jeep and have more editing to do on a few others in the pipeline. Best of luck!
Nice video! I'm upgrading to dynatrac PR44 & PR60 axles in a few months and will do 37s after that. I noticed you said you had to use spacers with your zero offset wheels, what is the backspacing on those wheels? Mine are 4.5 bs, and I'm wondering if I'll have to get spacers as well. 2010 JK sport, 2.5" TF suspension lift, Fox shocks, Flat fenders, etc.
So on my 2015 Rubicon JK, I recently bought a full set of 38’s because it was a killer deal locally. I had to. But now I obviously have to do a ton. So I bought a meta cloak 3.5 inch lift, fenders, etc. also have adams drivelines. If I regear my 4:10 to 4:88, would I really need to do anything to my axles? what else is a must?
That depends on your wheeling style. If you just do light trails and some mud you'll be fine. If you want to start doing some more technical rock trails you may want to gusset and truss them.
do you think most out there on 37's add wheel spacers with a regular 4.5 inch backspacing? seems the 37's stick out more than others on the same width(12.5") tires
Hey man i really appreciate your video. Could you please clearify something for me? I have a 2020 rubicon gladiator with a 2.5” fox mopar lift, and a full synergy control link, arm, and fox stearing damper, im running 37’s now. Ive done some pretty good wheeling, like maybe a 6-7 out if 10, no rubbing, and the flex is crazy. My concern is keeping everything strong? I never go fast on trails, i just slowly crawl. I mainly do rocky trails in CO, (thats where i live) Do i need to trus and gusset? Or swap any innner parts?
@@SoFloJeeping thank you! Could you please provide a few links. Ive also seen some people talking about how 1.5” axle shafts will fit in the dana 44 on the gladiator and some rubicon 20+ wranglers. What is your thought on that?
Good video, my jku front axle housing is broken and i need to upgrade axle and i want to run 37s what do you recommend? this is my daily drive and im a noob offroading so im not going crazy
Stock power steering has been fine except for super knarly rocks where even 35s wouldnt turn. I can be parked on pavement and turn them with ease. Dont do donuts at high rpm though 😂 i learned that lesson the hard way. Stock breaks arent ideal but they have made it through 2 seasons of snowbirds invading south florida so i really cant complain 😂
Of you wheel anywhere with hills you'll want better brakes. The steering box seemed to hold up ok but the pump will go south on you in a hurry. I went with a psc pump and box. For brakes I did dynatrac but the newer G2 brakes are cheaper and seem to have the same or better performance.
Or he is new to this world and had to ask about gussets and trusses, I still need them before I do anything serious off road, honestly I had no clue Jeep's required so much after market, course I used to play in the mud, still think rock crawling is a expensive waste of time, but I didn't buy a Rubi so strengthening the diffs only make sense
Oh and I ain't a mechanic and my Jeep is still owned by the bank, so little things and 35's and mud, even though it flexes pretty good for what it is, back tires have been into the fenders a number of times
@@johnhowzeiv1856 check my Instagram. General_Lee_JK. Last summer I was on 37s, and my new set will be here Friday. Updated photos will follow. Currently on 35s
I hope you stopped watching to go do some learning. The jk d44 and d30 are identical other than obviously the pumpkin and ring gear size. same length, tube diameter, wall thickness, same c's
@@SoFloJeeping Nope - I own and have torn into both. I agree there are a lot of parts that are the same on JK D30s & D44s, like the brakes, hubs, ball joints, Cs and knuckles, but there are several components that make the D44 a much stronger axle choice vs the D30. E.G: Axle Shaft Diameter: D30=1.16", D44=1.31" Axle Shaft Splines (front): D30=27, D44=30 Ring Diameter: D30=7.125", D44=8.5" Pinion Teeth (4.56:1 reference): D30=9, D44=11 Ring Teeth (4.56:1 reference): D30=41, D44=50