Actually clean it and put wet and forget on top of slide out. 303 is basically a UV protectant and since you have a slide out awning it's not exposed to the sun. But since it can get moisture and then mildew the wet and forget is a go to for me. 303 is great for the tip top horizontal part of your cap where the sun destroys the gelcoat. I usually use it liberally there because nobody can see it. On the wall I use a graphene ceramic spray for UV protection and shine. I know nobody asked or probably cares but I detail RVs.
This is really the easiest and safest method. I use steel fence ties (not aluminum) to secure the spring. The silicone spray or window track lube works great.
If your attempting this and dont have the hole to pin it vise grips can be used to hold it in place as well, DONT LET GO OF THEM !!!!! the tension cant easily fling the vise grips and break your hand.....awnings are the most dangerous thing to fix on an rv because they are spring loaded. If your not comfortable hire someone that does it, it could save your life.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena let it snap and if vise grips hit you , you could fall off the ladder. Thats where the danger is. Ive fixed hundreds of awnings it can and has happened.
I am not a rep of the manufacturer, so you would have to get all of that info from them. You could start with RecPro and go from there...amzn.to/3NV5MBQ ShadePro is another good brand of awning. Good luck!
If I said "awning" during the video, my apologies. The title, thumbnail and what I am doing clearly indicates "SLIDE TOPPER." I am NOT a professional and don't claim to be. Safe travels!
A small peice of plywood on the roof to distribute the weight would be a good idea as your on the roof, most are 1/4 to 3/8 ply under that rubber its sketchy
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I'm getting ready to replace our slide topper, and I am curious what the length of yours is. The manufacturer of our replacement topper explained that all slide toppers of slide toppers they manufacture are 48". Was your replacement topper the same as your original?
We just bought our smaller shade from ShadePro on Amazon...amzn.to/45uRPl3 It was good for slides from 93" to 140" in length. We measured our slide between the rollers, the way they show, and used a utility knife to trim off the excess. I assume you mean, the width? All slide lengths are going to be wildly different. Ours said it was good for all slides less than 42" width without aluminum guard. Most of the manufacturers are pretty good about helping with measurements. I have no idea what the brand of our original was, so I don't believe it was the same. Not a tough install, but make sure the roller is locked in place!!
I'm not sure on the tension to be honest and I assume they are all different. You might be able to get that info from the manufacturer of the roller if it's on it. If I couldn't get that info this is what I would do: With the slide all the way out, I would roll it by hand until the tension is strong, but not being forced. Install the pick, awl or small screw driver to hold it. Install the awning material. Remove the pick. Then put the slide in and see if the material rolls up properly. If it needs more tension to roll up without sagging add more tension. If you put too much tension you will add to the pressure on the slide motor. You don't want so little tension that it will open up and flap while going down the road. Good luck!
2 questions... how is your TT awning holding up after ~2yrs? Also, do you know the purpose of that wall bracket (1st seen @2:40)? I just did this slide-out awning replacement on my '05 Bounder 36S, and I have that same bracket. I have an assumption its there to pull the edge taut (somehow), but would really like to know its true purpose. Note: my bracket is ONLY on one side (front). FYI, thanks for the gr8 video... I consider myself very lucky to have caught your video 1st! After finishing this job, I saw other videos that had methods that made this job MUCH more difficult than need be. For me, the dang rusted out "set screw" in the gutter set me back an entire day! Eventually had to get cobalt drill bits & drill out the entire screw, 1st from the top, then bottom (significant Dremel work as well)... AND STILL had screw remnants stopping movement... had to get in there with needle-nose vise grips and work screw fragments out... complete NIGHTMARE! If wind wants to rip awning off, be my guest! I'll address that IF it ever happens, but I'm filling that hole and not putting ANYTHING back as far as "set-screws" go! Whoever did my awning to begin with was an idiot.... if you're going to do something like this, screw from the underside, not thru the dang gutter system where water runs constant. These rv mechanics/shop workers... just half-ass patch problems, then shove out the door. Whatever gets them beyond their janky 1 year "warranty". But I digress, thanks again for the excellent video.... very helpful!
Hey mud! So far our awning is holding up well. Being in the RV a lot means the awning is out a lot and gets more sun than most so if we get 5 years out of it, I'll be surprised. That bracket is what the tab, on the roller part of the awning, hooks onto when the awning is rolled in. It's supposed to prevent the awning from unrolling when you are going down the highway. It is a pretty easy job (with 2 people) if you just take your time and make sure you lock out the spring with some sort of pin. I recently replace our other awning topper with my wife's help and it went on in less than an hour, I think. One of the biggest problems with working on these older rigs is there are a lot of rusted bolts and stripped screws. I try to hit any bolt I'm about to work on with penetrating oil, a few hours before doing the job. But yes, drilling is not out of the question, if you have to! Thank you for your kind words! Safe travels!
No sir. It's a bit different. You only want the main awning to be open a foot or so. You do the same process with removing tension from the spring roller, but you totally remove the roller to get the awning off. The RVGEEKS have some great videos on the main awning.
My roller is having issues when the push out is taking place. When going out, the roller is trying to climb up the rail of the wall and thus creating tension. The slide out struggles and I have to get on top of the RV, push the roller down to the side of the wall and then I can continue pushing out the slide. Why would this be happening? Thanks for any advice.
Is your awning up against the RV when the roller is out? It may be pinching the awning and not allowing it to unroll. It may need an adjustment of some kind or the screws are pulling out. If it comes back in and rolls the awning up the spring must still be good. It's very hard to say without seeing it.
@@LifeWithPaulLorena It does roll back when pulling it in. So yes, I agree, the spring still must be good. But when rolling out, the "middle" part of the roller rolls up on top of the slide out and creates a binding affect. I have to get on top of the RV and PUSH the roller back down before I can extend it out any further. I don't see any screws nor if they are out. Maybe the roller should be moved away from the slide? Not sure how this movement took place if that is my issue. I will try and upload a picture. Thanks and what is your email address, Maybe sending a video will help.
The Adventure Nation Friends Club Groups. Has now been created, and has been authorized by The Motorhome Experiment The Adventure Nation Friends Club Groups. And now we can chat to each other and Express all the adventurous of The Motorhome Experiment. And now I'm inviting you to join us on Facebook book under groups" The Adventure Nations Friends Club Groups .
Since we installed the new slide gasket at the same time... about an hour. I would think we could have done the slide topper by itself in under 30 minutes.
Frank, you'll want to measure yours and not go off what dimensions anyone else gives you. The Tough Top awning website has all the instructions you'll need to make sure it's right. Good luck.