I'll never forget my first car, a Datsun 1200 GX, bought second-hand in 1985 when I finished matric. My buddy and I drove that down to Durban from Joburg with one tank of fuel, which cost us a whole R40. We then had to put another R8 in the car to get to Margate, where all the fun was!😅
Hey Ciro, Uber driver here. Keeping a eye on the flow of traffic and timing the robots well Really does do wonders. The clients i drive tend to wonder why i take turns with a bit more momentum than usual, then proceed to still drive fairly slow😅. Thanks for the tips, was one of the people that thought coasting neutral saves petrol(at least i don't have to rev match it now when i throw it back into gear😂) Cheers n safe trips
I do the same yes lol. I let the car roll around a bend while in gear, then I just feather the throttle to keep the speed as soon as I feel I'm going to start slowing down
Rolling in neutral vs in gear allows the car to reach higher speeds though. So perhaps it could outweigh the fuel consumption factor depending on the slope gradients and lengths?
I also thought coasting in neutral was the way to save money, until I drove a car that showed real-time fuel consumption - that's when I noticed that rolling in gear would take no petrol, and rolling in neutral always would
I had a 125cc scooter back in the day man i miss those days i would sometimes throw in 10bucks and be off..got a Kia picanto it was so fuel efficient i didnt worry about the scooter but now i want a scooter again just for work commute and getting a bread at the shops something so small will save lots of fuel. Tons of great advice here that really will help!
Dnt you have a Merc that you always drive in your channel? By the way, you got the best and funniest car channel in SA. You kak funny and full of character character
@@declansgamereview6523hey there and thanks I appreciate it men and yes i do thats the daily after the picanto but i dont have like fuel saving whip other than a bicycle and my wife's i20 this scooter life was like 10years ago🤣
You nailed it Sir. I noticed that warming up new cars before driving also saves lot of Petrol. Manual says no need to warm up, but i suggest you warm it up if you driving short distances
Another one is to make sure your air filter is in good condition and clean so that your engine can breath properly and breath clean air. It's also easy to change on most cars and it's relatively cheap.
Keep in mind ambient temperature and altitude influence your tyre pressure immensely. I do a lot of long distance driving and always had to check and amend tyre pressure very often. I now use nitrogen in my tyres which makes a big difference. My tyres runs cooler and less fluctuation in tyre pressure on long journeys which saves me fuel and my tyres last longer. This won't help you much if you only drive in and around the city but it works for long distance driving.
Hi Ciro, I drive a 2021 Hyundai Tucson, drove down to King William's Town in the Eastern Cape. I must say, that car was a dream to drive on that +930km. Hyundai claimed fuel consumption of 9.0L/100km, i managed to return a figure of 6.0l/100km. This was all due to driving style, keeping the speedo consistent at 110km/h, give or take 130km/h on some stretches. Driving economical is not just smart, but i makes you a way better driver in the end. Reading the traffic in front, coasting wherever possible and definitely using your cruise control, especially if your trip involves more that 200km worth of driving.
I was being sarcastic, scientifically it could improve fuel consumption, but in real world you would hardly notice. In performance cars that were already designed aerodynamically this could work, however who would want save fuel in a performance car 😅
This is true I am driving the 2021 haval Jolion auto lux. I recently filled up the tank to one click (874km’s) & reset the tripmeter. I drove the car on the highway on normal mode with cruise control set at 90km/h. I drove 200km’s to the destination, the remaining fuel in the tank was 842km’s
The best advice you gave the i saw working for me is "Changing the way i drive"... taking it easy on the accelerator really taught me good lesson on fuel saving
Yes, maintaining your momentum and anticipating stops and starts helps a lot. In residential areas they just build more and more speedbumps and put in more and more stop streets etc which don't help especially when you are doing short distances in your residential area. Will always try and save fuel, why pay more? Thanks for the great advice and recommendations!
My thirsty vehicles are used for towing a caravan. Speed makes a massive difference to fuel consumption while towing. I found almost 15% improvement in efficiency by decreasing towing speed from 100kph to 90kph on the GPS. And on an average day it only cost about 30-40 minutes longer traveling time.
I used to travel 260km to work and back a day, went from 13,5km per litre to 19,5km per litre, yes changing driving habits helped but what helped even more was improving the engines internals.......... and a vacuum guage. 😂
Gravity helps on downhills. Gravity works against you on uphill. Spend less time going uphill. Spend more time going downhill. Drive slightly slower downhill. Drive slightly faster uphill. Keep revs in first torque peak while accelerating. Like my current car I try keep between 2200 and 2800 revs. Slower you drive the less wind and other resistances = less fuel spent. Especially after 80km/h. Takes paths of least resistance around corners. Use brakes less and use engine for braking more.
Thanks to 🇿🇦 inequality, we've been doing this mate, poverty will make you think outside the box. Once we hustled to get some coins, we bought German, Audi fuel efficiency UI and tips taught me all this on the dashboard.
Once had an dilly Aunt who, when low on fuel, would drive quickly so that she got to the fuel station before it ran out 😂 Need some help on my upcoming road trip. V8 peteol with a canoe and 3 surboards. Wind direction alone makes a 4l/100 difference.
@@Flux000 I know .. inside is full to the brim. It's a problem that can't be solved .. large , heavy, brick. The difference between 95 and 120km/h on the open road is significant
What about tuning? Every tuner will tell you that once you do a remap, install a chip, etc you'll get better performance and fuel consumption, the last tuned car I had had a JB4 and honestly speaking I didn't care about fuel consumption and here in Botswana fuel is still relatively cheaper...
Adjusted my speed by 1) "reading" what the traffic is going to do by; 2) maintaining momentum, i.e. ease throttle up hill; 3) set my aircon to auto and at 22 degrees opposed to having it on constantly at say 20 degrees; 4) digitally check/inflate tyres twice a month with a Xiaomi portable compressor. Managed to get my Fronx GLX AT from 14.1kmpl to 15.6kmpl in town driving.
Driving 120 my car gives me 9.5 km on a liter. Driving 55km it gives me 20km on a liter. I drive 55 thank you very much, and I do get from point a to point b. It takes me 4 hours to do 150km. It takes 4seconds to crash at 120 and loose your life
I'd argue that at 55kph (on a 120kph road) you become a road hazard due to speed differential and actually increase your chances of losing your life. Especially in South Africa with a high proportion of people speeding at 130kph+. A while ago I also saw a test for optimal speed for fuel efficiency, which came out to be +-90kph. Of course this will differ based on the vehicle itself and numerous other things such as windspeed - but I think it provides a decent guideline nonetheless.
I saw that, but it all adds up I suppose. I should have added that correct tyre pressures improve handling ability and therefore safety and also helps ensure the tyres do not degrade early in their life cycle. Thanks for watching!
I didn't see that episode, but I suppose it depends on how much deviation there is from the correct tyre pressure (near flat versus ideal) and also the type of tyre (all terrains & off-road versus normal street tyres). Will go check out that episode, will be interesting to see the experiment.
Ciro, i just bought a Toyota urban cruiser xr manual and i was wondering if fitting a turbo to the car will help with fuel consumption. I know it will void the warrenty but coming from a Ford Kuga 1.6 turbo, i miss the extra power. Would you fit a turbo or not at all?
Hi there, as much as this sounds like a fun way of owning the fastest Urban Cruiser in SA, it's almost certainly not worth the time, hassle and expense. The engine in your car is the 1.5 litre naturally aspirated engine from the Suzuki Jimny. There will likely be turbo kits available in countries such as Australia but they'll be pricey even before shipping and import duties. The problem is that all the mount points for that kit won't line up with anything in your Cruiser, and most of the piping probably won't fit either. You'd have to get all the mount points custom engineered onto your chassis and the kit. I stand to be corrected but I just don't see an easy or cost effective way of doing this. And if you do get it done somehow, it will undoubtedly make your fuel consumption worse, significantly worse. And then, as you correctly pointed out, you would lose your warranty and service plan. If you can't get used to the reduced power, I think your best option would be to trade the car in on something more powerful. Will be way easier and likely save you money in the long run. Thanks for watching and you're welcome to reach out to me on social media if you'd like to chat further.
@@CiroDeSiena Thank you very much. I agree with you. Will just take a while to get used to it. Fortunately it is a lot lighter on fuel. Thanks for an awesome channel.
This is extremely helpful unlike must of us who grew up without dad's and taught ourselves how to drive and bought our first car at the age of 30, it's extremely valuable, can you kindly
Been driving a Tazz for 10yrs and most of these tips are like 2nd nature to me, I am shocked however about the driving downhill part, Im almost tempted to call you a lair, As far as I know putting it in neutral is the best way, I only put it in gear if I dont want to over speed, please make another video or send a link that goes into detail about this and engine breaking. Excellent video by the way!!!
Cars with electronic fuel injection can use 0 fuel while coasting as the momentum turns the engine over. Older vehicles with carburettors are more dependant on engine speed so then neutral will use less than when in gear.
This was a great video but I would add one thing. It actually makes sense to invest in your own tyre inflator. Alot of them are much cheaper now and they save you the stress of dealing with a outside source which often may be unavailable due to theft of the hoses for instance.
My experience from a driving 1litre Yaris up to a 1.8 Civic and everything in between- there is not much difference at all between engine sizes. Ignore thise manufacturer claims as well
I disagree with the coasting part. The coasting in neutral uses zero fuel, and you get to accelerate for for free without tapping the throttle provided you going on a decline, u can wait for the car to come to your desired speed then engage gear, thereby rev matching, this only works when there is less or no traffic i used to do this all the time back in the day, in a 9km stretch i used to coast around 4-5kms, provided the road is flat or decline.
coasting in neutral uses same fuel that would be used when your engine idles before u go... but on gear it doesn't use fuel at all.. and at the highest gear it does accelerate freely going downwards.
OK fair enough, I guess that's why the need for start stop systems save u fuel when u come to idle bit I need to do more research on on why when engaging gear the car doesn't use any fuel compared when in idle. U can always switch off the engine when coasting downhill😅 free rolling it.
I have a Fuel Tracker spreadsheet on my phone also tracking maintenance and service costs and over time always good to see how much I spend/save on fuel, service and maintenance costs. Thank you fore sharing info and clarifying some of the myths.
This is great to hear. Please share the app you use? Or do you just maintain a spreadsheet? Thanks for watching, we're glad you found this video useful.
My car's recommended oil is 5w30 but it's a naturally aspirated engine. Don't understand it. Other manufacturers use 5w40 or even 15w40. I see a lot of diesel cars use 5w30.
Momentum is very important less braking, tire pressure, windows for less drag. Clean spark plugs and airfilter and coasting when going down hill but you must be careful and be ready to go into gears to slow down
The 1st topic of this video speaks about speed maintenance to avoid slowing down or braking, this is when you now find those fast lane hoggers in the morning causing traffic simply because they don’t want to exceed a certain speed and also do not want to reduce or brake.
On a recent visit to report a fault at a car dealership, I was told that some fuel stations are allegedly tampering with their fuel (possibly to stretch profits) and this then damages the spark plugs.
While not impossible, this is unlikely. Much of SA's fuel is imported as is, and the rest is made in a handful of refineries, stored in a handful of depots and delivered to the various branded fuel stations by third parties. It would be dangerous and likely not cost effective to tamper with the fuel or the supply chain.
It doesn't make a difference in terms of fuel consumption, adding a few more litres in the way you describe will just extend the range you travel on that fill up. One click is fine if you're just running around town.
Injector cleaners don't work, you rather put premium fuel in your car it has.the same additives to clean your engine. This injector cleaner myth has been debunked by many professionals, check out carcarnut channel on injector cleaner. He used to work for a dealership and that was a money making scam. Rather go for a high pressure injector clean, the apparatus is hooked up directly and sorts the root of the problem.
The higher the engine speed, the sooner the engine warms up. However, to warm up all mechanical parts on your car properly (differential, gearbox etc) you have to drive it. And yes, modern cars that use "thinner" viscosity oil in smaller engines generally warm up a lot faster than older cars.
my dad chipped his vw polo 1.6tdi and aside from the obviously very welcome performance increase, the fuel consumption dropped from high 5's to high 4's to the 100. it's been 8 years and the car has never once had a issue. just routine servicing
