Lee, I love that you don't keep your own mistakes out. It shows that we all make mistakes as well as letting us learn from those who have done it before us.
Found Lee's channel when I bought my dyna years ago. One of his videos lead me to Shadtree Surgeons channel. Cool to see you guys still friends to this day, from Manitoba to Florida.
First off great screen printing quality and great information, but when I watch the video over and over.......That is when you realize how great of a job is done on the quality of the video presentation. The moving camera, close ups and music alignment. Just an all out great job. Cant imagine the time involved in the creation of the videos, but they are much appreciated.....Thanks.
Lee, hands down, you are the best RU-vid teacher i ever found, in my humble opinion. We did had a little chat on insta about my issues with white underbase, this video explained and help me understand exactly what i was doing wrong. That print is so damn cool! Been drooling over the insta photos since you first post the. ! You killed it dude! You're an absolute legend! Dom
I just... love your videos. You do so well in explaining, editing and filming. Those extra mile shots like filming the actual fibers with a macro lens ( or however you did it ) are so helpful.
I don't usually post comments but videos like this one are the best. Very detailed and in depth and after watching this video I feel a lot more comfortable with underbases. If you could do a video on how to line up transparencies when burning screens and how to line up screens when printing, that would be awesome!
Anyone who knows good (quality) stuff should be eager for every Lee Sturt video. Thanks Lee for tirelessly putting out amazing contents. Please we and the team back here will appreciate if you can make a video on how to choke an underbase in illustrator. From Nigeria with love and gratitude.
Legit rundown of the white under base. Stirring up the white ink before a job can make a world of a difference. Wish we knew that way back when. Glad you mentioned it in the video.
Great video Lee! you covered plenty of details and your videos are just the best. We all appreciate your hard work and always seeking to improve. Thanks for sharing !! ✌🏽
Print flash print, vs. wet on wet. Can you make a video going over both and why you believe one way may just be better than the other? I've seen a lot of debates on the topic, but no explanations for why to do one over the other. Thanks Lee
Im a old school printer, you have some major skills. props to you Lee. Are you still a 1 one show? Thank you for sharing your print journey! and your video editing is amazing also.
Not going to lie Man you annoyed me when I first started watching your videos but that was because I’m jealous your a freaking great printer! Excellent video man and I enjoy everything you do I’m a fan for sure!
This is exactly what I have been needing! Sometime can you continue on the underbase and explain a choke. I think I kind of get it, but somehow when you talk about it, I get it!
I plan to cover that when I do a simple spot color separation video. I'll probably make a few of those actually since it's different for photoshop and illustrator
We just switched from the wilflex LC bolt to the rutland street fighter white at half the cost with the same results. We were going through 10 gallons a week and it added up at the end of the month. Really good advice on the prep. I would also suggest a 2 to 1 coat for a thicker stencil to put down a little bit more white for better coverage. Print looks really good 👍
I use a 1/1 which is a perfect 20% EOM with that screen mesh and emulsion, EOM plays a huge part in a good print. I use the Rutland street fighter here too but I've switched it to my highlight white as it didn't have the matte down the wilflex did. I think on an auto with a roller or iron it would be a perfect base though.
@@leestuart38 we don't use a roller with the street fighter and get good matdown. Had to play around with the pressure and squeegee angle to get it right. Head 1 is our default underbase print head...lol
Another awesome video lee! Currently rockin that red/white rogue lab shirt today that you actually shipped out to me in your day in the life video. Good shit man! Looking forward to everything you do in 2021!
Geezus biscuits man. Your intro was low res and I restarted my router, restarted my computer and then realized it was just the intro. lol Anyway, I really like how add so much flare to your typography with half tones and this dope line thing you have going on. Does anybody know if that line thing has a name? (@ 8:02)
Awesome video as always dude. Slowly building up a catalogue of your videos as a training manual for when I open a shop haha! Keep up the good work man 👊🏻
great work man. Thank you for teaching us the right way. May God Bless you and may the peace and comfort of the Holy Spirit be upon you forever and ever, Amen !!!
Dude you are fucking MEGA! Definitely my favorite channel to watch and learn from. You don’t have an air of superiority or “Know-it-all-ism” like other channels. Although you do seem to know a shit load about printing. Seems to me you got it honest though. The trial and error way. Which is the best instruction one can learn from. Thanks for the assistance on this stuff. I try explaining it to my family and pals like it’s Rocket Science on a smaller scale. 😂
Would I need a white underbase if I was printing green ink colour on a medium blue t-shirt? I would prefer a black t-shirt but as I'll be using a crude DIY setup at home for screen printing, there's no way that I could get perfect registration for a white underbase.
Hi, I'm using water-based under based, after one wash on washing machine, all my yellow, magenta color become peel off, I'm printing on microfiber shirt.. Should I need to half dry the under base or full dry under based before put any color on it
thank you for the video . i have a question ,can you please do a fresh video for a new comer to screen printing who want to do printing for own brand . if you can please do it ,with all basic ,like what ink should use ? , how to line up with out this kind of laser lights and etc , i mean all what need to know when a new person come to screen printing for a own brand . thank you in advance brov . and thank you for your all videos . Great . keep doing .
Moire is really only caused by 2 main issues. The first one I mentioned in this video and the second is stacking 2 of the same mesh counts together. I'll definitely bring it up more in the future and maybe try to cause some moire on purpose to show everyone
@@leestuart38 yea. Definitely. I’ve also gotten it when I’ve exposed a base with some small halftones that didn’t opened up all the way. But usually the colors on top cover that. .... I also got it once Because one film out of the seven was printed. At a different frequency. I lost half a day of production trying to figure out what happened 😂... I didn’t know anything about moire at the time.
Hey lee, really enjoy your videos btw from Albuquerque. Appreciate you keeping it PG rated as well! :) Hey what was your choke on the undebase? 1 point? Just curious
I'm definitely not PG, must have just gotten lucky on this one 😂. 1pt is far too much and you can visibly see it, the maximum I'd ever do is 0.5pt. This was more like 0.25pt
Always flash the underbase. Top colors is a balancing act between printing wet or flashing. If you're new to it or even an intermediate, then flashing them all is fine on a manual press. Just make sure you aren't over flashing and fully curing everything
WOW....that looks great. Just the registration is incredible. F"n great job man. Only 1 question could u do a flattening screen right after the white base. I just did some black hoodiez after the first pass i did the flattening screen. And hit it again with white. It was a bright white. And it was a thick. It was only a 2 color design so I was able to get away with a thicker print.
I'm looking to move to screen printing when you add the emulsion to the screen and let it cure does that fill into the grooves on the edges that are missed?
There's 2 flashes in there. Could have probably done one but I the golden yellow was really thick and sticky and I forgot to mix viscosity buster in there by the time I started, so there was a flash before and after that one
I am still struggling a bit with learning and understanding all of the inks out there. There are so many damn choices! I am going to try out the Wilflex Quickwhite you mentioned but if I am understanding correctly, based on the spec sheet that ink is not suitable for 100% polyester garments. If that is the case, what white is your preference for 100% poly?