I was just looking for a refresher video as it's been a while since I installed one. The plate should be the other direction so once the shoe rail is in there is no possible way for the bolt to be knocked loose. FYI. Which I've heard there have been lawsuits regarding. I had to order mine online as no one in town carries them anymore.
Draw round base of kneel then chisel the timber that's causing the post to be out of plumb or even cut the base of post where req. And obviously adjust bracket as necessary that's my take on it , but I've never used 1 of these before.
just so you know that link is wrong for the click to buy......... I have to return the damn fasteners they send and pay for shipping all over again...... I guess I should have checked it before I bought.
If the (bull nose) that you are talking about is loose enough to take out, then just wood glue it back in place. If not, drill a hole and screw it in place. Also put a oak dowel rod into the hole for a nice finish look.
Note to anyone using a router that isn't experienced with one-- do not start it running and then drop it in to the cutting start hole it is dangerous,drop your bit in and hold the machine securely before starting the tool.the same goes for when you have finished your cut Always allow the tool to spool down and stop before you lift it out of the cut.
when fitting spindles it looks better if the spaces are equal up to the newel from both sides...the trouble with this technique is the lack of adjustment of the newel....you really need to work out the visual aspect of the balustrade before jumping straight in.
Lots of comments saying to cut into the floor and set the whole post in deep, or bore a massive dowel hole in deep. That's the best way, when possible. BUT... as a framer, I can tell you that that is NOT always possible. Often the corners or edges of stairwells have structural beams that are holding up the joists that run into the stairwell. If there is room to go beside it, maybe even by ripping down the bottom of the post, then excellent. But some beams are too thick to allow this, and even if some stair guy DO drill huge 30mm holes down 6inches into the beam, that is absolutely not allowed. In that case, there has to be some kind of surface mounting option for the post, like the one in this video. Although I have seen more stable methods than this keylock system.
Thanks Gumboot and Room for more for providing me with a solution. At the loft corner on which I need to mount a 4 inch Newel post. The loft corner is 4 2 by 10s bearing on a point loaded corner below. I believe this system may work best for me as I am not confident in boring a hole in this corner. Also as this post will be a corner post will it not have extra support from the other two adjoining rails? Cheers.
I know the guy personally that invented this thing and being in the business for 30 plus years I have never seen a bigger turd and I have told him so, gently, because he's a good guy. The lag is made in china, the first time you give it a good shove the lag head snaps off. You would be better off beefing up the floor underneath if possible and routering in a steel plate. It has more surface, you can use more screws to fasten the newel. Not optimum, but it beats the $hit out of using this anchor.
@@aaronb0711 Did you just scroll through the comments and then cut and paste your same response to everyone that recommended the proper method of mounting the post?
@@FreshCityVentures not sure, this was a while ago. I agree, this is the proper method but just because I may have typed the same thing multiple times, doesn't mean it isn't relevant. Still doesn't change the fact that you don't always have access below the floor
Aaron Becker My point was that you must spend a lot of time at your internet hero job. Repetitive cut & paste type responses and name calling would seem redundant to most, but someone’s gotta do it! Good work fella👍🏼
This is not how to attach a newel post, this won't last, it will be loose very quickly. Understand leverage and then create a very deep mortise in the floor use a tennon in the post and floor. The only correct way to do this job. Hire a true professional. 30 years of fixing this type of shoddy work.
Why not have put it they other way round? If someone pushes it forward it will bring the while banister with it... They other way around sounds more logical and more secure? If you push it can't slide out since the handrail is hold against it...
@First Name I just glue and toe screw it down , any movement going on is on the top of the rail and at an intersection like this , there aint much going on ..... end posts are different , i use a metal bracket screwed flush to the subfloor with 2 bolts coming up into the bottom of the post ☺ but the old way of cutting into the floor and notch the post into the joist works too
These worked great for me, as I needed to install over an existing hardwood floor and imitate post and rail construction elsewhere in the house. The bigger issue for me was acquiring the hardware, as I live in Winnipeg, Canada and there was no local supplier. I ordered them from the manufacturer in Minnesota and had to spend quite a bit for shipping. However, I'm happy with the result. I attached the rails with Slipfix rail bolts from Cooper Stairworks.
Was ist den das? Egal wo ich seh wie man den holz kalender befestigen bleibt diese methode mit schraube oder sonstige Amatür mithode weit von jeder beruf als schreiner und ohne gewisen diese vorhagen beruf zu üben. Man frest an ende jede den sokel einer zu setsliche länge in ca 2 bis 2,5 cm an den ende sokel selber , dan auf den boden trepe wo den mast rein steken den loch eng bohren mit etwas leim rein stecken und das wars.
Yea this won't last long... we are remodeling a house that had this system installed and the posts swayed all over the place... maybe if you also added the L plate brackets on the sides it would work decent
These will loosen over time and are not permitted under building codes in some provinces in Canada, our lazy unskilled builder used them on my new house and they were loose within a month. Lag bolt through solid wood is the only way to go!
Down and dirty I have to say I am not on the same tool choices that you used. I'd drill for the lag bolt on my press as the posts can all be pre drilled. I would also use a template for the bracket just cleaner and faster.
Rubbish,do the job properly run it through the floor and fix to the joist.one shove and this would break,Ive been a carpenter joiner for over thirty years.
This is Awesome!!! Thank you for taking the time to post this. I have searched countless number of videos and none of them have had any detail as to the steps of how to secure the post.
Excellent work. But I am wondering sometime down the road the owner or the next new owner got a new contractor comes in would know how to uninstall this.
Dont do it. This is a hack job. It's not the right way to repair a rotten or broken post. Dont even think about using in a new install. You will be back to fix it again properly. They are on Ebay for $80 aprox each with shipping and they got loose after clients used for a few weeks.
Not very impressed with this installation seeing there is a large margin of error - especially during the first few times using this type of fastener. The video doesn't explain anything about centering/locations and the variable involved when it comes to the anchor bolt or crush/wedge plate. Although, when perfected it could be a true time saver, trial and error leads to a lot of money wasted. This video falls short.
