I show how to secure your BX to trailer. Be sure you have the appropriate amount of tongue weight. ~-~~-~~~-~~-~ Please watch: "Kubota BX Grading and Filling Hole" • Kubota BX Grading and ... ~-~~-~~~-~~-~
I only use the 2.5 tonne ratchet straps on my BX, takes half the time, doesn’t chip away paint either. These 10mm chains are good for 10t each, way overkill. Apart from that, all your lashing tips are spot on. Locking webbing ratchets is very important, I see so many people leave them open, they spring out otherwise.
That rating applies to a *steady* load. However, any kind of inertial forces, such as hard breaking, swerves can cause the net force on the individual straps to far exceed the weight of the vehicle, and possibly the rating of the straps. Just something to think about.
Very well done. Having lost a golf cart off a trailer at over 50 mph (nobody and nothing hurt including cart, believe it or not!) and intending to buy a tractor I’ve been apprehensive of hauling one properly. Now I’m more confident, thank you.
Another informative video!! I am glad you used 4 binders instead of 2. That is the way it should be done ! Thank you young man for sharing. Be safe and God bless you and your family !!!!!!!
I appreciate you making this video. I recently purchased a BX2380 and a 16 ft car hauler trailer and this works out perfectly on how I want to hook everything up. Thank you!
In my state dot requires 4 contact points on the vehicle as you used. However it is required to be done in an X pattern. Also any implement has to be strapped down separately.
I cross the straps when hauling a car but I don't cross chains on a tractor. I'm not sure how you could cross the chains the the BX but if that is what is required in your state that is the way to do it. Thanks for watching and commenting!!
Travelin Thru yep. It is commercial requirements. Probably the only time you will have an issue as a private individual hauling is in some sort of accident. Good practice is to abide by DOT regulations, take pictures with a date stamp.
Thank you for this instructional video. You gave a great tutorial and I've learned a few things. Your tone, pitch and instructions were thoughtful and professional.
Getting chains closer to the length needed saves money and can eliminate the need for a couple of the ratcheting turnbuckles. connecting to trailer and tractor is almost the same at the uphill side, then you let the tractor move as you pull the downhill chains tight, then lock up the brakes. Closer to how the flat bed tow trucks do it. using a 25 ft chain where a 10 or 12 ft will do... just has a bunch of chain rattling on the trailer deck.
nice job! I like that you pointed out to stop and check the chains after driving a mile or so to insure they are still tight. I have arrived on location to find chains have loosened up in transport for some various reason. that is a good tip!
Great video. One thing my boss says is to always secure the hooks back to the chain, like you did around the chassis, not tip load it like you did at the stake pocket. Not sure if it just him being over careful, or if there is some science behind it. I though I may as well share it in case it is of some use for you.
Thanks! Some other people have said the same thing. I loop the chain around the stake pocket and hook the chain to itself now. I don't think it matters too much on something small like this, but on something bigger it would make difference. Thank for watching!
Here you have to have 4 binders no ratchet straps you can only use factory tie down points you have to put a strap across the bucket and I got a warning for not having my chain hooked to a chain somewhere in the information that comes with the hooks on your chain it says they're meant to hook back to the chain
With the loose end of the strap tick it in to the roll just before you finish tightening, sucking it into the roll, it will keep it better than just the tuck under the handle.
It’s impossible to find a detailed video on securing a tractor, so thank you for this. A local Constable told me the excess chains cannot be more than 12” hanging loosely. Do you think 3/8” is overkill for a L4701?
Love the video i haul equipment to job sites for a living nothing extremely big no cdl but a tip of advice i would like to give you is the hooks you did on the physical tractor were kimda loose amd saggy i was taught to never give slack anywhere still loved the video thanks for the bondage video lmao
I like to criss cross my tractor tie downs like a X fashion. I’m assuming this video was for demo only? If not ..all that for that little riding mower was overkill BUT safe towing is best.
With the way the frame is, there is no way to cross the tie downs. With the tie downs pulling sideways, the tractor is not going to be able to move sideways like if the tie downs were straight.
Tractor Tech sorry to disagree, but using chains on the front you could easily use the front frame and do a X pattern for your chains! The rear may be a bit more of a challenge, but it could be done. I would have to look at your tractor more closely to give a suggestion!
Thanks! They stake pocket tie downs are from etrailer. www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Truck_Bed_Accessories-sf-Tie_Down_Anchors.aspx I just found these when i was looking up the ones on etrailer. www.myteeproducts.com/checkout/cart/
I agree with the tongue weight, but it did not hear you mention it in the video. I would also mention securing the excess chain so it does not go over the side and either foul the wheels or drag on the ground
only one chain in the rear and one chain in the front / if u did your way , if one chain come a loose want jerk the tractor around might un hook from the trailer
You can but if that chain comes loose then there is nothing holding that end of the tractor. With two chains on each end, if one comes loose you still have one holding the tractor.
@@TractorTech I was afraid the tractor would fall between the deck but I secure all 4 corners to the trailer and make sure they are tight. Kept my eyes on the tractor as I drive and drove over 600 miles. Made it home safely going 60mph. Thanks for the advice!
Okay that was kind of nice because you can tell the guy was actually trying to do that stuff the right way technically the load capacity that he had for each one of thosepoints and securement are very very important for each rated weight and then you're supposed to always derate to the lowest point like if you have a stake pocket that's only at 2,000 lb and you have a chain that's 8,000 lb you're only allowed to count it at the lower number being 2000-lb although I'm sure that little tractor itself is probably only what 1,800 pounds maybe 2,000 can't be very muchso technically you required on something like that the regulations are 4-point contact so really good actually you actually you had that really good on all that simple stuff I knew securement actually for a living on big huge equipment in transportationso that's the really good thing is you actually did really good on all of that you just technically did not need quite that amount of load rating on your chains but of course yes it's good to have that just that technically it would not make any difference because you always go back to the lowest rate weight rating
Finally someone who understands. I also use those same chains to haul a 7000lb tractor. They can be used to haul other cargo also. It is hard to justify buying 1/4 grade 70 chain that is more expensive than 5/16 gr70 chain to haul a tractor a couple of times a year.
Hi - I know this is an older vid, but I was wondering if you made the weight bracket on the front of your BX? I'd really like to find one that would allow me to keep the grill-guard on.
state dot requires 4 contact points on the vehicle as you used, however, you can use the Anchor Shackle with one chain in the back with one Ratchet Binder(can use a second one but not needed)
zane parker DOT inspectors that I have talked to consider that arrangement of a shackle on the tractor as 1 point if contact. As it only has 1 point of contact to the tractor.
94Bullitt, I meant to ask what do you recommend to do with the excess chain (example on the rear of tractor) after you tightened down the tractor? Do you tie up the excess chain or wrap it around itself? I just watched your other 2 videos on what kind of trailer to haul your tractor and those videos definitely answered some questions I had. Yep, I'm going to get the 10K trailer with brakes on each axel. It just makes sense. Thanks again.
Good question, It probably would be best to wrap the excess chain back around the binder and chain and secure it with a tarp strap. I'm glad you found the other videos helpful. Good luck on searching for a new trailer.
Houndsman One DOT inspectors I have talked to all recommend the chain be wrapped around the load binder. 1) they say the binder must be secured to prevent it from loosening. 2) excess chain must be secured to prevent it from coming away from the trailer, either causing damage to the load and possible flying objects, damaging your trailer in a manner that makes it unsafe (flats are common results) or the chain possibly hitting another vehicle. While not commercial and may or may not be required to meet DOT in your state, following DOT is the safest in many ways
Nice video. Its just like chaining down bigger heavyer equipment. Ive hardly ever used the ratcheting binders just cuz they were never around, but i have used em at different times. Ive always used the regular boomers & cheater bars. Why did ya use a rachet strap on the left front?
Thanks. Most of the time prefer ratching binders. I used a ratchet strap on the left front to just show a different method in case someone wanted to make a tie down like I did.
Those are 5/16. They are overkill for a tractor this size, but I use them for other things. 5/16 grade 70 chain is cheaper than 1/4 grade 70. You can get a 5/16 chain in a bag with hooks on it at lowes or harbor freight pretty cheap.
You didn’t take up the remaining and very excessive chain slack. This can be accomplished by grabbing the center of remaining chain and wrapping it around the ratchet binder.
I’m somewhat new to these ratchet devices, but what do you do with the excess chain on the trailer? Can they just be left like that or what’s the proper way to “hide” the excess per say? Thanks
94BULLITT thanks so much! I know the answer was probably self explanatory, but was kinda curious if you left them loose or wrapped them around something. Thanks for the answer and video! Awesome channel and I’ll be a new subscriber!
Overkill for a BX.... That's why I like it! No such thing a to secure, only under secure. BX is staying put right where you put it! In our state we have to cross the ties. When you get where you are going, that BX will be right behind you.
There is a company making the front bolt-on tie downs for the Gen 1 and 2 BX. Ai2 Products at bxattachments.com/product/kubota-bx-front-tie-down-attachments/
I don't recall saying to start at the front. I said to start on the uphill side. The load is under 10k gross and for private use, so in most, maybe all states the DOT does not care. There is not a way to cross the chains on the rear. I had 4 tie downs. Thanks for watching and commenting.
If its tied down right and the trailer rolls in an accident, the tractor will stay on the trailer. Yo don't strap them on based on just staying in place for normal driving. You chain them on so it doesn't join you in the truck cab in a wreck.
I rap the chain around the chain or binder and pull the strap though itself or use a bungee like this www.tradekey.com/product-free/Adjustable-Shock-Cord-With-Plastic-Snap-Hook-Elastic-Strap-Bungee-Cord-3674779.html I get mine at home depot.
You should never put chains into a stake pocket. They are the thinnest and weakest point on the trailer, chain hooks can actually cut through them like shears, you should ALWAYS use a stake pocket D-ring for ALL hookups, or attach D-ring and or chain slots to other areas of the trailer. Other than that everything was fine, The huge slack of chain really did make me grind my teeth.. its just another object that needs to be secured or it can slide off the bed and get caught in a wheel. Would have been a wiser idea to just get some clevis hooks and use one chain front and back since you know your loading the same thing all the time. As for tractor hook points, there's tons of different hookups you can buy, from d-rings, to weld on or bolt on banjo slots, to weld or bolt o chain hooks. You can also get finger hooks for your chain and just go into a hole.
but you're still attaching the chain / binder and routing it through a stake pocket.... You need to use a stake pocket D ring insert ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GpXCiOOoPxk.html ) as you did with the strap OR go directly to the frame or reinforced rail. You cannot use a chain hook or a strap hook directly onto the THIN stake pocket metal. It will cut through it like a can opener. Stake pockets alone are NOT tie down points. They are weak points made of THINNER metal and not designed to hold a load on a single contact point. It's just like chaining it to a fender. The stake pocket D-ring distributes the load across the entire stake pocket, not just where the hook touches, thus making it a legal tie down point. Edit: Added link
Viper fukgoogPlus one point of clarification, not all stake pickets are created equal! Yes I have seen some thin ones, but some are also thicker. I have also seen them ripped off at welds.
Hooking the hook to the stake pocket will course the pocket to bend. Hook the hook to the chain. P.S any cop see the hook attached the stake pocket you will get a ticket for an insecure load
Even if you hook back to the chain, if there is that much force the pocket will bend. Hooking like he did in the video prevents the hook from coming loose.
And I know I've seen people put like 20,000 pounds of strapsor like 40000 lb of chains let's say for a rated capacity on only approximately let's say a 4000 lb rated rail rub rail of a trailersurprisingly if you actually watch people with little small pickup trucks you'll see that they do stuff like that all of the time truck drivers actually laugh at that stuff not really understanding why people do that I guess they just don't really understand that technically you can put forty thousand pounds of chains on a trailer and it's still only rated at 4000 lb if your securement point is out of writing and four thousand pounds for instance but great job there sir
That is like with tractor implements. For example I have seen people take a junk tractor supply blade and brace and gusset the frame, and not not do anything to the moldboard, which is the weakest point. Also their bracing probably did nothing for the strength because the main tube on the frame is undersize.
@@TractorTech not wrong, just massive overkill. looks like your almost your securing under 393.130 but your equipment is under 10,000lbs. you can secure under rules 393.128. that means you can use 1" ratchet straps (normally rated around 650lbs). WLL of straps/chains must be 50% of load winch in your case is around 1,400 lbs plus extra's, no more then 2,000 lbs. so technically you could use one 1" strap front and one in the back, i would use 4 of them.
@@fhuber7507 over 20 years been using only 2 chains and binders to secure 9000 lbs loaders and tractors and never had any problems with law or accidents. 4 binders is for over 10,000 lbs
You used overkill on tiedowns.. that tractor is heavy enough for all that..one chain in the back would have been sufficient and one 4in strap in front would have sufficient.. but hey , your video
Yes I know..I've been trucking for 40 yes..but I work smarter not harder..and not everything is 4pts bc your just aan and a pickup with a trailer behind it...
Bruce Bannerman try that with me and I would have your job you idiot. Chain does not have to be crossed moron. The machine isn't heavy enough to require it. If you want to get technical one chain and one binder is legal securement for the rear of that tractor.
