✅Tools used in the this how to level floor for tile video: ✅ SIKA 187782 Concrete Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier amzn.to/34nZgdF ✅ Bosch 5" Angle grinder with vacuum attachment kit: amzn.to/2ErfiJH ✅ Gauge Rake with Sleds and Wood Handle to rake the self leveler compound across the floor: amzn.to/2Cuivap ✅ Wooster spiked shoes for applying self leveler: amzn.to/2Bz97QX See our other Channel for CarBuyingTips.com also: 🚘🚗 WATCH ➜ How Car Dealers Scam You with Fake New Car Window Stickers: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-limT0keTOpY.html 🚘🚗 WATCH ➜ CarBuyingTips.com RU-vid Channel: ru-vid.comvideos 🚘🚗 VISIT ➜ CarBuyingTips.com: www.carbuyingtips.com
I think it's safe to say all yt-ers know how subscribing works. I was considering subscribing until I heard the push to do so near the end of the video. If the content is good, people will subscribe not because they were encouraged thru self promotion
These guys are commercial installers, normally doing hospitals, large retail spaces, etc. They were the only company of 3 that I called, that would come and do a job this "small", 350 SQ feet living room and dining room. They were done by noon.
They spent a fortune in floor leveler, let alone the floor itself and labor. Most ppl couldn’t afford what was done here. Furthermore, you’d be really hard pressed to find a DIYer who could pull this off
Over 15 years in concrete experience here and they miss the most important step. Repairing the cracks. Hair line cracks can be sealed with a structure epoxy but if bigger or deeper than 1/8 your suppose to cut a valley and place backer rod then seal it with structure epoxy, then grind floor after it has cured, then self level the floor. Also i would have lifted and pin the carpet up on the stairs. For you guys wondering why house slabs crack like this. There are 2 main reasons. 1. Is settling over time. 2. New construction companies add too much water to the concrete past the specs of the mix design. Why so they can finish the slab faster. That looks like a 3000 post-tension slab and thats usually a 5 in max slump. If it cracked like that and the house is about 3 to 5 years old i bet they poured it on a 7 to 8 in slump which is too wet and it reduces the strenght of the concrete. Ive seen this done too many time to count.
I am an unfortunate 'Army of One' that doesn't have anyone to mix for me... I have 520sqft to spread today or tomorrow in my own home. I screwed screws into the floor on a 2' grid and at corners of the walls/cabinets across my kitchen, dining room, pantry, coffee bar area, mud room, a closet, and a bathroom with a closet as a floor height reference based off of a FatMax self-leveling laser and a marked-for-reference white 1X2 board. In several locations I have 3/4" sag between all of the exterior walls being level, and three other heights across the floor that match those exterior walls. The rest is low with no way to bring it up except to fill it in. I believe I can do it alone by adding the self leveler up to the tops of all of the screws as a reference. This video was good reference for what I am about to do and it is well put together. Thank you for taking the time to put it together for us. :)
Wow, that's a huge project, and a lot to pour with some of these 3/4" differences. Make sure you have enough bags. Let us know how this goes for you, and what challenges you had to overcome.
Yes, we loved working with it, 5/8" thick solid strand natural bamboo. They manufacture it by crushing the bamboo and compressing it under high heat and pressure, Janka rating 2500.
Yes we are showing you how to do it and on a small scale most people can't but if it's a room area that covers two rooms and it's this large, I usually tell people to bring in the pros unless you have a couple of people working with you because this does require a perfectly timed choreography in order to pull this off smoothly because once you start mixing and pouring you cannot stop until you are done and it has to be done very quickly you mix for about a minute or so and then dump it on the floor and start the next batch
This is the "money is no object" way. Floating the entire floor is not always necessary. Normally you just use a long straight edge at various points along the floor and mark the high spots and the low spots (a step missed in this video). Then you grind the high spots down. Then you use the self leveling mix to fill only the low spots, not the entire floor. This will save you so much money using less bags of self leveler, and still get a level floor.
The dust collection is not just for convenience. It is lung and life saving. DIYers beware that not only a vac but a respirator is required. This video is a great overview of a great professional job, thanks for sharing the knowledge
I'm about to renovate an old outbuilding. The existing concrete floor is uneven so many thanks for showing me the technique and materials required for the job.
Nice job and good info. I liked the way they used the grinder with a vac to take down the highest edges. If you didn't grind the floor, you would have had to have much thicker leveler over the entire surface to cover the high spots!
Yes, and one spot had a vertical section of rebar rod sticking about 1/4" up out of the foundation. Also roughing up the foundation with the grinder helps the primer and leveler stick better.
You are a 100% right. I tried to self lvl my floor by myself and with the help of my 13 year old. I didnt have the proper tools, yet we finished the floor but it ended up being terrible job. You def need 3-4 people helping you out. Now i beed to fix my floor and thinking of putting another layer of self leveling. Any input on that?
Yes you will often see pros come up with nice custom solutions hat work well for them like the buckets they used with holes to rapidly measure the exact amount of water they need to use for that leveler.
this is exactly what I need done to my front room. house is old and all the layers of linoleum (about 5) my daughter scraped up, and the concrete floor is uneven . Where would I rent the machine with the vaccum ? Or how much should it cost for someone to do this for me? it is a 23'x9' room.
They will likely charge you a few hundred dollars, or you can rent the angle grinder at home depot, and a shop vac, but you'll likely spend almost as much on the rentals, they are expensive. And doing that work, and getting the respirators, that is grueling work, I would google floor removal companies, that's too hard to do it yourself. In 2015 I hired a floor removal company to come into a condo kitchen and front foyer and grind down all the thin set left over from me removing the old tile floor. Three guys, 2 hours, taped up film everywhere to avoid dust, hooked up a vacuum outside to suck all the dust out, jack hammered off all the thinset mortar from the previous tile floor, and when they were done we had a smooth flat concrete floor that was ground down smooth for $500. Sounds like yours is not that involved, so should be cheaper.
I hated that crap. That was the last time I used quarter round. After that, everything goes up to 1/4" from the stairs, and I use flexible molding that we paint white.
Love the video, very informative! Great descriptive generation with background noise that wasn't so high you can't hear the duration. Hope to see more videos like this in the future. Keep up the great work!
Amazing video!!! My condo concrete looks just like this. I was shocked to see a downward slope in the middle of my living room along with a ton of cracks🥴 Thanks for the tips, praying I can temporarily fix this until I get professional repair 👍🏼
I spread self-leveling compound for the base of my shower stall. When dry, I installed the base for the shower stall. It wobbled. I tried some more self-leveling compound. The base still wobbled. Finally, someone suggested the base itself may not be perfectly level. I scoffed, saying the base was made in a modern manufacturing facility and was surely level. I took it to my pool table and guess what? The base wobbled. I should've ripped the manufacturer a new one but instead I applied some non-self-leveling compound to slightly slope the floor to match the uneven base. Sheez!
@@jeffostroff If you can show me how to set up a misting cooling fan system for my enclosed sunroom that would be great. Once I level the floors, I want to be able to chill in this Texas heat!
What did you use for underlayment? Was the bamboo glued and nailed down? Also, what were your transition elevations to the existing tie in once you self leveled and laid down the flooring?
Bamboo floor was installed with a 1/8" underlayment, not glued down. Once we laid the floor planks, they were about the same height as the tile floor, so we used T-mold transition pieces. We did not have to use any height reducers.
jeffostroff I installed a floating bamboo floor as well but the planks appear to be rubbing against each other and squeak. Did your floating floor squeak at all?
Great video. By tile contractor friend in Jacksonville, FL uses a company that pumps in self-leveling compound for big jobs like this. His advice to me was: “Remember it has the consistency of chocolate milk when you first pour it, so caulk every since crack or crevice where you don’t want it to go.” That was after I learned the hard way. I leveled a sink tub area and had a form to keep it out of the drain area, but I didn’t caulk. Within seconds, that stuff was leaking in under my form.
We had our concrete floor leveled, but they entirely skipped the grinding part, so it just resulted in the same slopes. Id like to do this myself, your method looks amazing and practical! My question as a newbie to this is, how will i know how deep to grind down to? What if my house was framed weird and i cant find a good depth from the right spot? Very new to foundational work, sorry.
My friend, thaks a lot for teaching us. My question is: What kind of bonding agent did you use? Could you please tell me the name or the brand of it? Thank you very much.
@@someguy3717 He literally did it. "Gravity" (Understand it in context) check his live chat on the matter. I´m not telling he´s right or wrong but it´s his explanation.
As far as bonding agents go they vary but most need to be overlayed as soon as they are dry some work best damp. This is important because if you go to lunch on hot day and return to overlay you will not get a good bond.
What I wish I had known about floor leveling compound after watching these videos; The videos on RU-vid are obviously with experienced tradesmen, making the job look easy. Primer is extremely important, especially when laying layers upon concrete. Anyone in the business of floor leveling will tell you that the product isn’t self-leveling. It takes an experienced hand to have a finished product that is flat, much less smooth and level, 3/16th of an inch at ten feet is the max variance. Cold, cold water will give you some extra time to spread the mix before it clumps and hardens. Special tools are needed, unless of course you are a concrete man that knows how to use lumber as a tool. Spike shoes are important when doing large areas. A roller with spikes is necessary to remove bubbles, help spread the cement and pop bubbles. A slow stir is necessary to keep air bubbles out of the mixture (recommending a mixer and not a drill). Exact water measurement is extremely important. Stirring longer than two minutes is just wasting set-up time. Sanding often isn’t a problem, some easier than others, some dustier than others.
Can you post a link to the self leveling cement that you used? And how long before I can use an epoxy paint on it? Thank you for the video this was the best/easiest explained one that I’ve found.
We always have to be careful of stating "perfectly level floor". Most SLU leaves the floor at about a 90 to 95 FF ( Floor Flatness). This project went form under FF15 to FF of about 95, which is great, just as the result is great.
My husband and I am thinking to self leveling concrete over saltillo mexican floor. We bought already laminate wood flooring to put over the self level concrete.. questions. -Do i still need a bonding agent? -How difficult it is the task for non professionals like us?. We are planning to do 981 sq ft.
Great video! Any thoughts on doing this in a detached garage so I can put in a home gym? I think I heard that there is a slope required out towards the front entrance. Thanks again.
Self leveling is hard to do on slope so you want it to pool up in lower end and level off to upper end. Remember this can only be used on foot traffic not garage car weight loads
Yes, garages have slope for draining, this obviously rules out "self-leveling". I assume you don't want to mutilate the garage and get rid of the slope...
Is it possible that after pouring when the screed settles it pushes the insulation and damp proof membrane down to the subfloor and it makes a 40mm difference? Our builder is telling us this. We need to do another round of pouring to compensate for the 40mm.
you should have it all dammed up with silicone or something to prevent the self-leveler from flowing where it should not flow, then you won't have this problem. You should not have to do 2 rounds of pouring, you should only need to make one pour
@@MichaelMerritt im guessing its because sidewalks are subject to more extreme forces. expansion and contraction of the ground, especially important in the northeast with the freeze/thaw cycle
i fit floors in the uk and we get big gaps at the patio doors and/or insulation poking up. They also have a guy come round and spunk in a load of mastic everywhere so they can get a good air pressure test result. It's not always the case but some companies/builders/site managers don't give enough care for the floor prep. You can use wide masking tape if there are skirting boards on but personally i prefer to use a hand trowel and i do the whole lot 100m2+ on my own, otherwise the money isn't good enough
I have tried to use MAPEI self-leveling compound without any tools. I thought self-leveling meant it would... well ... level by itself. What I found was that the different batches wouldn't perfectly blend/mix with each other. What I mean is that the edges where the different batches met weren't perfectly blended, you could tell where the different pours were. If I was to do it again, I would invest in one of those spike rollers, to make it look like it was single uniform pour.
@@cosmicshadow305 It would only matter if the 2 different pours are uneven with a lippage between the 2 of them. A lot of it depends on if you mixed it properly and if you dumped it right away you're supposed to mix it within 2 minutes and get it on oak floor right away and yes you are supposed to use some type of rake. I have done small bathrooms before and had to do a smaller area of the bathroom and I was just pushing the mixture around on the floor with a trowel to feather it out to the rest of the floor.
that's because you either mixed them with different amounts of water, different water temperatures, or the bags we'rent the same weight throwing off the mix ratio
@@totem_pole ... How what? Not sure of your question. However, I think the problem is, and why Louis and his employees WON'T LISTEN when we keep trying to explain this to him, is because they incorrectly think that to "level" the floor they need to basically create an entirely NEW concrete floor, and level it from the back of the store to the front, which WOULD YES create a too heavy of a floor. *However, that is utterly FALSE...* He doesn't have to get rid of that incline which is there for a purpose to general level/smooth the floor otherwise. That incline for that long of a store won't cause any issues with sitting etc., and does NOT need to be removed.
@Repair Man ... Ya, it's really disappointing, and MANY of us were trying to tell him this from the beginning, even yesterday I even donated trying to tell him, but he just ignored what I was saying in my message, just reading the first sentence and then huffing and puffing, ignoring it and not even responding to me when I gave him money. Their problem, and why Louis and his employees WON'T LISTEN when we keep trying to explain this to him, is because they incorrectly think that to "level" the floor they need to basically create an entirely NEW concrete floor, and fully level it from the back of the store to the front, which WOULD YES create a too heavy of a floor. *However, that is utterly FALSE...* He doesn't have to get rid of that incline which is there for a purpose to general level/smooth the floor otherwise. That incline for that long of a store won't cause any issues with sitting etc., and does NOT need to be removed.
Hi Jeff, thanks for the fantastic video. I'm total newbie but here to learn so one day I might be able to do it myself :) Just to ask what happens if you don't use the bonding agent ? Is the new cement will start to cracking and loosing up with time ? By the way this video sounds like how they kind of teaching in schools which is great. I know some people layed wooden floor on to the top of carpet or they used glue to stick it to the floor. Are those methods are not the right one right ? Just asking it so if someone recommends it to me and thet say "it will be fine" I wont listen to them haha :D Thanks again
Old concrete which has already cured years ago needs to have the bonding agent rolled on 1st to enable the new concrete to bond with it as it forms its crystals during the curing process. If you don't apply the bonding agent first you're poured self leveler could delaminate from the concrete and not give you a very good hold. As far as the other methods are concerned, my thought is that the weight of the new laminate flooring that gets put down will likely hold itself now whether it might slide back and forth individual planks as you walk on them I simply don't know. One time we put down laminate flooring on top of tile. But we used the floor glue to glue down the underlayment first, and then we glued the planks down on top of the underlayment and so far that floor has been nice and solid for two years now
Yes they will typically go around the floor with a grinder with a Cup wheel on it that will grind down the high spots sometimes you might even have to do a little chiseling but the idea is to get the floor as flat as possible before you even pour self-leveling compound otherwise you're going to end up mixing many many more bags than you originally intended in order to make it all rise up over the humps . So to prevent that the idea is to grind down the humps to the level of the rest of the floor
I think concrete companies or builders would be more careful if they were building a commercial building like Walmart or HomeDepot I've seen some nice concrete floors at those places.
Having only used the tool for other purposes, what do you do with the "wheel guard" on the angle grinder to be able to use the whole disc surface on the concrete? Thanks.
I'm quite sure these guys don't pay anywhere near that amount, since they are commercial property contractors, and probably buy this stuff by the truckload. They don't go to Home Depot to buy this, they would go broke. This puny little 40 bag job is nothing to them, and I had to pull teeth with them and other contractors just to get these guys to show up, as this is too small a job for the other guys.
When I do it I usually prefer to either add Coke along those bottoms bottoms of the walls or you can also do the phone but the call has more control. Oh. In this case they probably didn't bother because you have a metal bottom plate at the bottom of the wall there so nothing is going to seep through
Hi Jeff! Thank you for the excellent video. It is greatly appreciated. We're putting down some vinyl plank over a concrete slab. We used this product to raise the floor 1/2" and correct some defects. For the most part it came out perfectly. We do have an issue. There's an area where we put down new leveler and the prior row had begun to set. As you might guess the seam didn't even out with the new pour a bit higher than the old. Nearby we complicated this problem by trying to rake out a minor imperfection in an area that had partially set. So we have a couple of high spots that need to be fixed. Would it be OK to grind them down carefully? And, if we end up with some small low spots how do you recommend we fill them? Thanks!
What does a typical job like this cost? Is it by square foot. I have a basement that needs this before I remodel it. Was wondering what kind of quotes to expect? Great job on the video. Also, is there a slow set you could use to give you more time if you only had 2 people to do the job i.e. me and a friend?
We paid these guys $1200 for the job. You can probably do it with 2 guys, just have one guy mixing bags constantly, use multiple buckets so you can just go from one to the next. I don't think they have any slower setting self levelers.
Hello Jeff Robert here in SC. I couldn't help it when I watched your video We were hired to demo a living room floor, Home owner said something was wrong with his floor. It had cement slab and lament floor covering. We pulled it up and you wouldn't believe this one.. there was a 4'x4' hole clear down to the dirt under the house filled with what ever the trades men eat for lunch that day... mad me wonder where was the inspector, or the forman over the hole housing project??? We did laugh a little but really it was Very Sad!! Sents then almost ever house I've been into /200,000.00 + floors have cracks in them from one end of the house to the other!!! Craftsmanship has really went down hill here now for approx 15/20 years.. Anyways take care and GOD Bless😇
The home construction quality, that’s occurring these days, is criminal! But don’t worry, the big builders will give you a warranty(that they won’t honor). The kitchen cabinets are cheap - lighting and plumbing fixtures - cheap! Profits over any kind of integrity and ethics. God Bless America!
I especially loath the builder with their particle board cabinets and vanities, that warp and crumble of the years from humidity in the air, and don't even run a coffee maker under your upper cabinets, the steam will destroy them.
Good explanation thank you. I’m here because I see videos on Facebook spreading the mix around but no commentary Jump over to RU-vid and bam there you were.
ahh man this looks like something I shouldn't attempt. I have a 12x10 ft room and a 6 inch incline from corner to corner. Can get someone to help me but not professional help.. What should I do?
If it is 6" off and you have never done this before, I would leave it to the pros. Depending on the manufacturer of the self leveling compound, once you go past an inch or 2, they require aggregate to be put down with the product for reinforcement, as his is not meant to be used that thick on its own, or maybe grind down the part that is 6" higher, but a professional contractor should be able to accomplish this for you.
2:00 You just gotta love the worker (there's always one like this) shown grinding concrete without a respirator or even a basic mask on his face. Enjoy the silicosis, son!!
Hi Jeff, what an incredibly well done, informative video. Can you tell me exactly how many bags of Self-Leveling compound were used for this room? I have 1450 ft² of slab cement in an 18 year old home with definite settling issues. Any idea how many bags might be needed? Thx!
I don't know how many they actually mixed up but I think I saw about 40 bags on the truck and I don't know how many they used. If you look on the back of the bag that you are buying, it tells you how much square foot it covers for a quarters of an inch or More so read what it says on the back of the bags
That guy grinding the floor with no ear, eye, or breathing protection is foolish. If you are going to try this, wear ear, eye, and breathing protection, and make sure the respirator protects against silica dust, which causes silicosis. You won't like silicosis. Don't be a fool; protect yourself. That dust collector is probably getting a lot of the dust, but what if it misses 1%? And say you're grinding a 20X22 garage floor. That's a lot of dust and even 1% is bad enough. How much silica dust is too much? The American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists has a lower non-regulatory Threshold Limit Value of 25 µg/m to the third power. That is 25 micrograms per million per cubic meter of air. That's a tiny amount of silica dust.
I know some of these guys I think will end up with iron lung one day. I also see a lot of roofers without harnesses. OSHA can't be everywhere at once to inspect every single job site. Lucky for this guy that vac he used caught about everything there was, but you're right, there's still 1% of what I could not even see him grinding up.
Kalle Klæp Not necessarily a month. There is quick setting concrete. Many accelerating admixtures exist. Concrete may harden in a few hours. Normally 28 days is specified, but concrete gain 70% of its strength within a week.
Holy cow, I bet it like a fog in there. We had to use an angle grinder on a bathroom floor on the concrete, and even with a vacuum, not connected to a port, just held the tube near the grinder, it still filled the bathroom with fog. We also had a fan in the window to help suck the dust outside. Glad we had on masks that day.
Use caution the white fog is not harmless .. it's crystalline silica 'dust' and consider a carcinogen and should never be breathed - use water when possible when grinding or sanding concrete - also use vacuum and lastly N95 rated resperator or better
@@smokedpotato I wish the angle grinder manufacturers would design shrouds on them with vacuum ports, to keep the dust low. I have seen universal adapters, but heard they don't fit very well.
Man, settle down guys. I'm a perfectionist, but jumping down someones throat because a dude didn't hold a screed right or used a grinder or whatever because it's not in compliance of Ch. 1, Subsection 12, Verse 8, from the holy CODEx of OSHA is a bit much
Yup, that's why I don't use it anymore, stopped about 5 years ago. I'd rather have a little gap under the baseboard than see that tacky shoe rail. In fact there have been times when I caulked UNDER the baseboard due to excessive gaps left by sloppy builders leaving lippage on their uneven tiles, now you have to create an optical illusion by caulking under the baseboards, but it works great and fills in the gaps.
@@zeke112964 I uploaded this video 3 months ago, but we actually shot it in 2012! It sat on my hard drive for years before we got around to processing the video and uploading it.
Well, if someone look at this video and want to do the same on a main floor with a basement under, make sure to fill gaps bottom of wall. I saw someone that all the concrete was going into cracks and even leaking in the basement.
This is nonsense. I do self levelling on floors this size all the time on my own. You don't need to grind the floor first and it's not a "bonding agent" it's a primer to stop the leveller drying out too quickly from absorbtion. Their bucket is stupidly large and the way they splash it about is amateur hour!
Apparently you're not very good at your job. There were several high points that needed to be ground down, and one spot had a vertical rebar rod sticking up out of the foundation that had to be ground down. Huge chunks of sloppy concrete from the builder had to be ground down. These guys use a "stupid large bucket", because they mix multiple bags at once for larger faster production, as they normally do commercial projects. Sounds to me like YOU are the amateur if you don't understand these concepts. There was no splatters all over the walls, and yes, you dump the stuff out on the floor, that's how it works. You're just making up nonsense, really is that all you can come up with? "splashing about. It's always amusing when janitors assistants show up trolling here, blowing hot air about nothing. I would never hire you if you don't prepare the sub floor first. Grinding the floor removes any contaminants that could be there too. No one likes a troll who comes flying in off their high horse cutting down everyone in site. Grow up.
pablo rooney You definitely need to grind the floor before pouring on it also big pours you put epoxy and sand down first I do all the polish floors for the new Old navy’s or any gap store for that matter always should use a actual gage rake for pouring and a spike roller and the proper kelts other wise that wasn’t to bad for just even out the floor and the buckets come straight from the Ardex company which I been certified in so you might wanna actually know what your talking about first before u hate on people videos
I am a professional flooring installer and can say that while I don't totally agree with Pablo I definitely don't agree with Jeff. Depending on what brand of leveler you use you don't need to grind the whole floor. Also Pablo is right its a primer that keeps the concrete from sucking in the moisture of the leveler
Commerical flooring installer here for 20yrs, depending on what exists on the floor does require grinding, and why would you not want to grind high spots down? Less self leveling material. Your floor in only flat as the highest spot. Now being a commercial flooring outfit, their methods are a little out dated, there are better tools than the skimmer(rake) we use a spike roller and a gauge rake to move material around and our mixing barrels are in rolling carts. Does the end product look good? Absolutely. Just because someone doesn't do it your way doesn't mean it's wrong.
Jeremy....Thanks Also NO Primer Needed AT ALL (only in my case)...15x15 Basketball court Outdoor for the little little kids.....Cleaned and dumped spread and PAINT! that's it! Anyway a GREAT VID Jeff!
we have rain water under the tiles on our balcony. we will need take it all up and start over, caulk the windows. the reason most older condos and apartments have carpet is because the builders didn't prep the floors for tile. many are unlevel. i had dirt and sediment coming in at under the baseboards where they didnt caulk. i had sand piles under the carpet at the walls edge on a ground floor. and when i took a crowbar to pop up the nail strips, it left craters in some where it was nailed down. i used regular drywall putty to fill them in or a tub of premixed gray grout and did a peel and stick 1 foot square laminate in a faux wood look. after 10 years, that got scratched up. any imperfections below showed thru. i did have a large 4 inch scraper on a two foot handle. it broke on the edge in some areas. I don't understand why he put the soup so thick, why not squeegee a thin layer all over. the bags of concrete sand weigh 40 to 50 pounds each, so us ladies may have to transfer half out into buckets. i can only lift 30 to 35 pounds. 50 will strain my back. 45 pounds is a bench press bar. why workout when you can just renovate. lol. brick pavers are heavy too.
I have grinded and scraped and cleaned my basement floor and am ready to add the bonding agent, was looking at your list of tools used in this video and i dont see a link for the roller that was used for this step-is there a special roller?
