THIS is the video that I wished I found first time I searched. I had to do some service on my Honda BF30 and you made it all accessable and doable. Thank you!
I have a 1997 Honda 40 HP four-stroke. Love it. Bought it from a person who took good care of it. I've had it for about two years. Thought it was time for some good servicing. Excellent video. Thanks
Just finished servicing my 2005 Honda 50hp 4-stroke BF50. Your video was a really great help. Did the oil change, spark plugs, lower unit lube, thermostat, then the impeller. While the lower unit was off, I decided to check the speedometer hole. It was very stopped up. Had a heck of a time getting that unstopped. First used 3/32 drill bit (by hand) but it wasn't long enough to go down into the vertical pathway. Finally used a small ss rod hammered flat on the end with a slow drill. Had to replace some of the rubber tubing and found that 1/4 inch black sprinkler system drip hose worked well. Engine now ready for fishing! Thanks!
Great work! My Honda outboard need a full service. I do have some semi pro mechanics and skilled amateurs to guide me and also lend me tools but this didn't look deterrent. I THINK I can do it
This video was amazing and super helpful in serving our new Honda 30hp motor. If you ever clean out your carbs that would make a great video also!!! Thanks for making this
Just a suggestion (and I haven’t finished watching the entire video yet) let people know how long it takes you to the entire job at the beginning or end of your videos please. Great video/audio and very informative!!!
Easier way to get those stuck lower unit drain screws out is a big screw driver with a square shaft and a crescent wrench comes right out with no beating.
G'day to you. Can I offer you a bit of friendly advice.I have had my own boat service shop for the last 26 years. There was a couple of things you missed. 1/ No compression test. 2/ What about the anodes. They help prevent the motor corroding away. They must have a clean contact with motor casings. Ask a dealer where they are and have spares. They rot away. 3/ No Inox/ crc/wd40 sprayed on the motor always the last thing to do. 4/ Its always a good idea to degrease the motor from top to bottom. Don't worry when you hose it down water can't get in where it shouldn't be. 5/ Absolutely no reason to put grease on links etc. It only makes a mess and gives dirt and dust some where to stick when your towing to and from the water.6/ Get yourself a proper water trap/ fuel filter, it will save the day in the end and they aren't costly. 7/ When you reconnect your gearshift don't try and change gears without turning your prop shaft. This will line up the dog clutch with the dogs on the gears and you won't strain any of the mechanism. 8/ This might cost a couple of bob if you can't do it but clean the inside of the lower casing behind the prop and there is a bearing carrier in there. Remove it and replace the prop shaft seals. Reseal it with grease All Over it when you put it back in.This is an important step. If anything goes wrong inside and you haven't had it out in a couple of years time you stand a chance of breaking the gear housing to dissmantle your gear box. It is actually supposed to be done every 150 hours. At a dealer it would be called a MAJOR SERVICE. 9/ Service your battery. Clean your terminals and leads. Check the motor wiring especially the earth connections. Every time there is an electrical issue there will be an earth problem along with it. I hope you don't think I'm a prick or the like's but its free advice from someone who's done this for 53 years in total. Some of these things might help you. I hope so. Regards.
Hi chris. Thanks for the feedback. I did forget to mention a couple of things like the anodes. Some of it I check prior to each trip such as the battery terminals which I could have explained. This is just showing how easy a basic service is. Thanks for watching.
@@ChippyOZ I've never heard of lanolin spray.. does it not damage plastic parts under the cowl of the outboard, like (presumably) WD40, CRC and others do..???
Probably the best information and advice including installation of the parts on RU-vid, this is how to service a outboard without being ripped off. If everyone done this maybe the boat mechanic might lower there service charges. Excellent content. Thanks from wales uk 🏴
Sharp clear illustrative photography, gentle presentation, good tips. 1000 thanks. Nice if you did one for my 20 hp. With an old bad back, it’s nice to know how to take apart some of the engines components before lifting it up onto a truck tailgate. Took off the tilts and trim plus the cowling and the propeller to shave down the weight to under under 100 pounds have you dealt with making very heavy outboards lighter temporarily for Transport?this is Curt and Virginia USA
I have a Honda BF 30 where you have to manually lift up the lever to tilt your lift your motor up and down there's two little springs underneath on that lever nobody seems to know how to put them back together would you know or even have a picture of where their positioned so I can put mine back on that would be great and your video was fantastic thank you
Just to be clear, I have an older Honday 40 and there is another bolt under the Zinc anode that needs to be removed to get the lower unit free. Otherwise, this video is very helpful.
Great video. Only thing I’d say is be careful what grease you use on the impeller. Red rubber grease is ok, as is evinrude triple guard, but “marine grease” which are often lithium based with added zinc, will eat away at the impeller. One of those things where it’s probably fine, especially as it’ll be washed out soon as it’s ran. But if you service the boat at the end of the season you don’t want it sat for months like that.
Pretty good video. I always use dish soap when putting my impeller into the impeller housing, it lubricates the initial start up but then biodegrades as to not pollute the lake. Don’t think it really matters though. Love my Honda bf35.
👍👍 I’m a motorcycle & car mechanic , you sir did an excellent job of explaining a basic service , from the beautiful state of South Carolina , thank you !
I've just got a 15hp honda 4stroke on a 4m fishing boat. Tested it before I brought it and the water wasn't squirting alot but his muffs were shit. I got it home put some decent muffs on and it's not squirting water at all. Turned it off after about 20 seconds. Had a look where the water feeds into and took that little gauze off and found what looks like little bits of rubber. This might be from the impeller.
@@AusAdventure yeah I've watched your video and another one that actually showed the little bits of rubber that I seen. Cheers for this video ill get a few parts together and do a full service. Obviously the guy I brought it from hadn't taken care of it too well.
@@AusAdventure ok, yep impeller has no impellers left.... I found a few down the bottom in the pick up about 4 little rubber nobs and when i pulled the pump off another lose 1 so hopefully the rest went somewhere else NOT UP THE INTAKE.. also the oil filter has 2014 on it so I'm guessing the "service last year" was a lie.
@@peterk7377 yeah sounds like they were not exactly honest. Sometimes those bits of rubber get stuck in the tell tail port so I would clean that hose out also.
Amazing video brother thank you for posting this. I just bought a boat with a 75hp Honda and will need to do everything you've shown. Although I expect some things to be slightly different your video was helpful to me. Cheers from Canada!
I bought a 50 Honda BF 50I’m going to do everything you just did in the video but what I wanted to know is should I spray the carburetors down first to clean them out I think this motor hasn’t been serviced in a while thanks for your support
Hi Doolie, if the carbies have stale fuel in them it would be a good idea to drain it out. I have never had to do it myself so I can't give you any further info on how to do it. I am just about to upload a video in which I change the internal engine Anode which may be of some use to you so keep an eye out for that video soon. Thanks for watching..
Dear Australian Friend, Thank you so much for giving your knowledge freely. I just bought my boat 3 months ago and was a little intimidated until I saw how easy you made it. I have a 50 HP Honda, 4 stroke engine. I owe you a beer if I ever get to Australia. Your American friend.-Paul
Fun fact if you are removing the lower unit on a honda bf40/50 there is a hidden 5th leg bolt underneath the zinc anode thingy. Boy was I swearing trying to get it off with only 4/5 bolts removed.
Hay only just saw your comment as RU-vid put it in spam for some reason. Thanks for checking it out and I see your doin similar stuff. I like your work.
Excellent how to! One question, how do you get your muffs to run enough water through, is the clamp the trick? I have the same engine and can't get mine to run enough water through the system, but haven't tried clamping it.
Great tutorial! Thank you. I have a BF40 2003 and there is a hose along with the spline that holds the forward & reverse rod. DO you happen to know that is removed?
Great video! I also own a HONDA and love it! I have been servicing my own outboard myself. You put in a great guide to help people. The only thing I felt like you missed to mention was to put the crush washers on the lower unit bolts. I have to make sure they are installed every time because my motor sits in the water at the marina during the season.
Just a thought On my outboard which is an older BF45A there is a fifth bolt under the anode plate holding the leg on. Need a 12mm wrench to get it out. You make great videos.
Hello mate if your are talking about where I got the parts. I got them from my local Honda dealer in Australia. Hope all is well in 🇭🇳. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video well done learnt some more from you one of the best I've seen . But there is one question does the gasket in the water pump were it meets the stainless steel plate and the bottom housing need any lube such as a little bit of oil rub on it for a better seal or just put on as is i notice you put it on as is thanks Rick
Glad it was helpful. I can’t remember the exact amount but it was close to $250. Got it from the Honda dealer at Runaway Bay Marina. I think they are called Runaway Bay Marine.
Its great you guys put out videos like this otherwise people like myself who live in rural areas would have to travel a long ways for repairs. Thanks keep it up.
G'day: This video is SO VERY HELPFUL!!! I was able to follow this to change out the oil + filter and the impeller in my BF20 and now it's finally running again! If only I had realized the BF20 has a 5th bolt holding the leg on. May have broken a small piece of the body while getting the leg off, but it runs!
thankyou, just purchased this outboard, very informative, any tension settings for the thermostat bolts? ty again will be doing my own service, also do you check, know, cylinder compression tests settings. gary, Adelaide, Australia.
Hi Gary, I don't have the torque settings for the thermostat bolts. You would have to find that out from Honda if you want to be exact. I don't test the cylinder compression either. Maybe one day Ill buy a tester and do it. Hope you enjoy your new motor.
Question ... My motor kills when idling after a few seconds. It's similar to yours Honda BF90A 2001. I have the manual too. Where would you go first? Throttle cable adjustment? Thanks for the awesome videos on the Honda. I've already done some of my own maintenance. Water pump was easy! Lower gear oil, easy! Thanks again.
I would probably make sure the fuel supply is ok and it’s fresh first. Then you could check the spark plugs are good and then adjust the idle. If still no good the carbys might need a clean or overhaul. Good luck.
Awesome video! I am going to do my BF20 Honda now. Also on a "tinny" but alot smaller than yours. I was admiring the bits on the stern there and how you did the trailer bunks those blue standoffs are nice. I notice you put some oil on the bolts going into the aluminum - good practice - on cars I use anti-seize (that silvery grease) instead - would that work too? Thanks from Texas.
Hey great video. I’m working on a bf 40. Low compression across all 3 cylinder 60-70 psi. Adjusted valves. Brought it up to 90-80 across the 3. Pulled head. Just waiting on a new head gasket. My question is what should the compression be ? I’ve seen all kind of numbers but nothing for sure. Some day 212 ( which seems like a ton) others say 130/140. Also what is the clean out port on the foot ? Thanks !
How zit mate!!! I've landed on your channel by accident, but man am I glad I did 😎 subscribed immediately and have been watching your videos for 2 days now. Awesome stuff mate awesome stuff and oh boy this video of how to service your own outboard engine is GOLD 👍 it's a bloody ripoff to take it to a dealer. Get out there and keep the good stuff coming, and be safe 👍👍👍✌🐟⚓🎣⛺
Did mine this week, had major trouble working out why I had no tell tale water afterwards though. Turns out the short rubber hose on lower leg wasn't mating with the tube coming down from the engine 😳, watch out for this..
Excellent video for me as new owner of BF20. Got engine and gear oil changed already, but for impeller nice to get guidelines before taking action. Thank you! Cheers from Finland.
Going to service my Honda 30 in the next few weeks. I couldn't remember what to do with the gear linkage so a nice clear reminder from you. Also a good reminder about the grease points. Thanks from the UK.
Glad it was helpful Peter. One more tip with the gear linkage. When you get it back together it may feel difficult to engage gears. Test it with the engine running and that will give you the real indication if it is adjusted correctly. Thanks for watching.
(great video) Hello. If the upper hex section shown in 19:24 doesn't spin freely to remove the lower unit... (gear shifting rod) Did some moron use red thread locker on it??? What do I do then??? Separating the nut from long hex section was okay.. But the upper portion does not spin to take it apart.. Is there an easy way to get that to twist if it is locked up?? I don't want to break anything.. Thx.
Hi Mate I have never had the problem you are having. If there is thread locker on it I can imagine it would be very difficult to remove. The two nuts tight up against each other should be enough to keep them in place. Hope the brake cleaner works for you.
@@AusAdventure thx. Not yet.. Added WD-40 penetrating oil after a couple hours of brake cleaner. Still stuck. Will try a barbeque lighter next on the long hex nut. Too tight a spot for a regular torch or heat gun... And rubber mounts nearby. Is really weird that the upper threads of the long nut are solid. Where the two nuts hit, those threads are freely moving. Damn.. 😎
@@AusAdventure You're welcome. I plan on tackling my BF40 Honda when the parts show up. One extra lower unit bolt hiding under the trim tab. Internals look to be similar.
@@AusAdventure 25 minutes to take the lower unit apart and disassemble the water pump impeller housing. Cleaned and prepped waiting on parts. 20 year old stock impeller looked and felt perfect.
