hey cody you might know this but most Stihl filters split apart in to so you can blow them out from the inside out.. just take your saw wrench or a flatt head screwdriver and there should be slots in the corner and you just spin the screw driver and it will pop apart.... Also you can take your ignition switch and put it on full choke before you remove the filter and that closes the carb and keeps saw dust from going in.. Dont get me wrong the way you do things is fine im just giving you my input and also knowlege that i know from servicing our Stihl saws..
You should get into the habit to clean your saw after your done with any cuts you make for the day. The saw will run like its brand new if you do that. A suggestion that could help your saws performance over all.
what does a girl do when her flight to toronto is postponed a day? why she takes apart her chainsaws on the dining room table of course. and i found out a few interesting things - a) how easy it was to do, and b) my crappy craftsman and my crappy poulon are the EXACT SAME THING.. which makes keeping parts easy... but they were cheap and relatively light for me to handle, so maybe some day i'll get a 'real' chainsaw! thanks Cody, you inspire me to remember that 'doing it alone' isn't an excuse...
I really enjoy your videos, but i believe there is a more correct way to clean the filter on the 260. I have a 026, which takes the same filter. I was told by a 40 year Stihl dealer and mechanic, that this type of filter should be split apart and blown out from the inside. If you look on the one side of the filter, there is a slot that a flat headed screwdriver fits into. This splits the filter and allows the two halves to be cleaned from the inside. This way you are not forcing ANY material into the filter. This concept really applies to all air filters, as they should always be blown from the inside of the filter, forcing all trapped material back out, rather then into the filter. Hope this helps
Cody, I carry a 3/8 in hose in my chain saw tool box in the field; why it's easy after you loosen the spark plug pull it on to it and twist to remove it and when you place a spark plug in the chain saw slid the hose over the plug and twist it into the cylinder head then pull off the hose and tighten it with the socket
Very good tips, one thing I always do before I put the saw away for a longe time is to put stihl motomix or aspen in the fuel tank. You're saw will start right away!
I don't think I have changed the spark plug on any of my saws in years. I keep a couple spares when I am out working just in case one breaks or fouls, but a good plug should last a very long time. If the electrode gets rounded file it, re-gap and re-install and get a few more years on it. Once the electrode is worn down to the ceramic its time to retire it. When replacing parts I check every so often but only replace when the part begins fail.
I'd advise cleaning the crap out of the bar grooves as well, working from the sprocket nose to the rear of the bar and greasing the sprocket nose if it has a set of holes for grease. One should also check one's bar for burrs and if present they should be filed down with a flat fine cut file. I use the flat file that came with my sharpening kit. Pulling out the choke before removing the top cover to clean the air filter and replace the spark plug is another way of keeping crap out of the carb.
Winterizing sounds strange for me, because where I live, the best season for felling is winter, as there is no moisture. Summers are too humid. If you cut just firewood, you can do it throughout the year, but quality construction and artisan wood is always cut in winter. Otherwise there will be molds, cracking and such
I naturally love the content because you have an excellent reputation as far as I'm concerned. What I wanted to especially mention was that even back in 2012 (it's 2018 today) your video editing looked like you took your time to do it right, as it still does today. I can't thank you enough for wanting to make sure your videos are always easy to watch and enjoyable. Just a few minutes ago I tried watching a video of some guy who builds rustic furniture. He was trying to show us how to clean a chainsaw. He was holding the camera with one hand while doing the whole thing. I kid you not, I had to stop the video because I was getting nauseous, and that's not just a figure of speech. In fact it's still wearing off. I watch yours and it's like "ahhhh, much better". The video itself doesn't distract from the content. In fact I think it enhances it.
I was just "gifted" a used Craftsman 358.35608 by my father-in-law. (That man always seems to know.) It definitely needs some work to get it running and your videos are a great help! Parts and tools are on order and I will be getting stuck in when they arrive. Thanks again for putting yourself and your info out there! (P.S. This is actually the wife having hijacked the hubbie's subscription log in.) CC
Excellent work on this style of video, sir. These are all things that people put off and usually don't do until there are problems. Keep up the nice work. You are spot on with this channel, with folks' needs. Thank you.
Hey Cody, great video full of very useful information I liked the way you plugged the links between the air filter and caburator don't worry about people moaning, telling you have have done something wrong if it works for you then stick with it. Dan (U.K.)
I checked with the parent company (Steel) and they told me to use ONLY yak musk to clean the air filter. heh heh Love your vids Cody. I think I may be getting educated......?
I've watched this vid a couple of times recently, and wanted to say thanks. I was needing a new saw, as the old husky I was running was huge, and finally gave up. Was wanting a pro saw in the 50cc range. EVERYTHING is ruined by the EPA! Thankfully I was able to find a new MS260 Pro, even though they have been out of production for awhile. Watching your vid, and seeing how user friendly the stihl was, swung my vote. No "mill house" this time. Will stick with Husky hand tools though.
Thanks Cody. I was given a saw by my neighbor last year, this is a good tutorial for a new saw user like myself. It's time to winterize all my engines this weekend, I'll be referencing this.
I think it is a very good idea to replace what you can even if it is still working. One day you might not have the extra money to replace the part and you have spares. Also it sucks to be miles into the woods and your equipment fails.
I enjoy your videos. You need a "Varsol" cleaning tank bad. You can build one out of a 30gal. or 55gal. drum or buy one. I go to tractor supply and buy their 5 gal pale of mineral spirits by Crown. Building a tank is easy just cut it length ways,add hinges and legs. Use expanded metal for the "shelf". You can get fancy by adding a "Little Giant pump.
i have to do some work on my saw it doesnt like to stay running, but its a polan and it was inexpensive and it cuts when i need it to, hopefully ill get to it during christmas shutdown. thanks for the info cody
Thank you Cody, this video really helped me a lot with a ton of questions I had about Stihl chainsaws. So once Again thank you for teaching me about chainsaw best regards from Denmark
I'm a very green Sawyer, I've been trying to learn as much as I can about all aspects of sawyering and I just came into a possession of a Stihl 044 from a former co-worker who was our Hazzard tree feller. The saw is not running and looks like it needs a full rebuild, as this will be my first time trying to fully rebuild a chainsaw (or any 2-stroke for that matter) do you have any suggestions on kits or things to look for as I go through this learning experience?
Cody, thank you for these videos they are really detailed and informative. I’m about to purchase my first saw pretty soon and already know what I plan to purchase, I’m just curious as to why you chose to go with a Stihl brand of saw over any of the other manufactures out there? I too am going with Stihl for my own reasons and just wondered what yours were, thank you and keep the videos coming.
He is running a yellow 25" bar on his Stihl 260. The model number is 3003 000 8830. You will need the proper chain and 3/8 7 sprocket to go with it as well. The green bars have less chance of kickback than the yellow ones. This is a great setup and will cut better than the green bars and chains. But be careful and use proper safety equipment.
I've never bought a full skip chain due to having less cutters and the saw chain dulling faster. I figured I would rather sharpen it less often and spend more time when i do break out the granberg sharpener than have it go duller faster. Why would a full skip chain be better except for having an underpowered saw or sharpening more often?
I am definitely bookmarking these two videos. Do you recommend a particular bar oil? Do you use Stihl bar oil or something cheaper? Is there a performance difference?
You should'nt use compressed air on the filter itself as it damages the filaments, also you can just pull the choke out to stop bits going into the carb. Thanks Jack
Sir you make great informative videos. You got a new camera recently, and it seems all of them now produce a slight hum or low sounding buzz in the newest vids you've done. i will still watch them just saying!
I like how cody has to pre warn his people about the sunday diy'ers who try and make him look dull. He does this everyday guys. Let the professional work you sad sad people. Ben from uk
HI Cody, Just wondering why you don't use the smaller end of the scrench when dealing with the spark plug? I am going to service my 291 after watching this video and didn't know if I need to purchase a spark plug socket or if the scrench will work.
You recommend people have two saws. if you are starting a new home stead and you can only afford one chainsaw at first what size would you get, moving to Willow Alaska
Wranglerstar always recommends the Stihl MS 260 (new version is the MS 261) or a Husqvarna saw. Check wranglermart.com for a whole bunch of gear he recommends
I own a Stihl 362. the size between the two saws in your videos. when I blow it out with the compressor, I leave the air filter on, that way I do not have to plug the intake boot before blowing it out. do you sharpen the cutters on full skip chains vs full comp. chains any differently? I use both kinds, sharpening them the same way, but the full skip chains never cut as fast, although they cut faster when they were new. Thanks, BK
I have a MS 271 stihl it currently has an 18 in bar if I go to a 16in bar would I pick up very much more power is it worth the expense of new chain and a 16 bar
I went through two brand new husqvarna chainsaws in on day. They wouldn't run through the first tank of gas before stalling. I went and bought a comparable stihl for the same price cut Dow my three dead trees and was done
Hi Cody i see your usin a 260 stihl, have you ever had it start cuttin out after workin hard for awhile?, i run a 290 and its developed this trait from time to time
You recommend 2 saws, Im looking to upgrade my MS290...what saw would you go with for "1 saw to rule them all?" I've been eyeing the 362 but your video has got me thinking a 261 or maybe even a 461. Too bad they don't sell the 441 anymore. Thoughts?
The 261 is smaller and the 461 is much larger so that’s gonna be huge difference between those 2 models! Don’t get me wrong they are all great saws but the question is how big of cutting are you gonna gravitate toward!!!
Did you scrape out the bar groove ?. I have a 260 and 046 both good saws I like the 260 good for light falling, running a 20 inch and full house chain the 260 has more than enough power to buck doug fir and hemlock. A funny story I was falling trees on a residential jobsite. Neighbour asked if I could look at his saw. He said it doesn't cut very well no wonder he had the chain on backwards. I pissed myself laughing, he didn't think it was so funny.
Great video Cody lots of help for me as I've just brought myself my first chainsaw, but can you tell me more adopt the stuff you put in the petroleum ?
Two things I noticed about this video. First, you should use fogging oil in the topend when storing your saw. Second, you should use anti-sieze on the sparkplug threads.
lol at the point you made about the air filter cleaning. Don’t you just LOVE the commentors who have likely never serviced a saw in their entire lives yet know it all and feel it necessary to criticize your every action regularly citing “knowledge” they’ve painstakingly acquired from “experience” read: Parroting what they read on an internet chat board!
