Unvented Cylinder For Hot Water - Fault Finding - Safety Controls - G3 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h2ApE7rE3Lk.html How To Service An Unvented Hot Water Cylinder ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P2v-Werhd4s.html How Unvented Hot Water Cylinder Works - Plumbing Training Video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2ZQH-TgD7ao.html
This is the best video about unvented service I've seen. I have my unvented ticket for years, and always avoid doing unvented service. This is great Allen Hart, thanks to Roy, and to the guys at viva academy for doing this video. I feel much more confident in doing the unvented system service now.
It's probably worth looking at the internal expansion unvented cylinders, how to restore the air gap etc . Lots of cylinders out there with this set up
Another great video Allen on servicing unvented cylinders, it makes the understand of the systems much more easier when you go through it step by step the way you guys have done it. Great video.. 😀😀👍👍
That was a useful guide on the simple procedure to service an invented cylinder. Thanks for taking the trouble to make this video. Regards Steve Chartered Engineer.
Brilliant. I've seen a number of videos regarding explaining how it works. This one on servicing, for me it ties it all in. Well, as much as 'all' would go for me. Thanks a lot.
Top geezer. Thanks a bunch. Watching you guys going through the servicing procedures brought it all back to me. Safety first, second and third. always think safety.Keep well and prosper.
Thanks for the great video alan If possible could roy do a video on the thermostat + overheat close up function and characteristics wiring on a unvented cylinder etc etc please Thankyou viva +roy 🙏
My Unvented Vented hot water cylinder is twenty years, never been serviced and now pressure has greatly reduced. Which has become so annoying using the shower and hand basin ! This video is excellent, it has explained everything l needed to know in depth, to get it up and running again. The only thing that concerns me with my system, as it's old, it doesn't seem to have as many safety features applied on it ? Please could you tell me, if there is a directory register of certified fitters and service engineers who are allowed to carry out work on these systems ? I live in the NorthWest. Many thanks.
You have been providing us with a great series of videos on unvented cylinders. In depth detail from yourself and Roy( as well Elliot's video on the imploding cylinder 18/10/2020).Good comments below about G3 day course. Very hard to fit everything in on a one day course as well as the assessment so having these videos provides meat to the bones. I also agree with one or two comments about more detail on checking whether the 2 port stays closed when the wiring is disconnected. Perhaps, if you have time, a follow up on this topic and why we use 2 and not 3 port valves etc. Thank you again.5 Star content for Adult learners and apprentices.
Im new to plumbing just finding my way , recently got my G3 , would really like to see more on the electrics side of things because I find this a a real grey area in plumbing regarding what and what you are allowed to do , for example does an unvented electric parts need to be signed off by a qualified electrician . Thanks for all the videos and hard work.
Great video Allen. Your right about unvented course. I took mine the other day and they wizzed through it and it’s was difficult to take it all in. The training centres only seem to be interested in getting you a pass.
Thanks for this vid. Good explanation. My pressure vessel (potable, unvented system) fails regularly, causing the pressure relief to go. Plumber comes (I've used different ones for 2nd and 3rd opinions) and says, 'yep, I'll need to replace the expansion vessel'. This happens about once a year, and then low and behold, it lasts a while and fails again. I’ve asked plumber after plumber why this keeps happening, perhaps another more systemic fault -with the multi valve perhaps?? But everyone just says replace the expansion vessel... Oh, and they tell me off for the expansion vessel not being mounted on the wall... it starts off on the wall but when its gets heavy with water (when it fails), it falls off. Also leaving it on the floor makes it easy to feel how heavy it is and tell when its getting near needing replacing again! Any ideas of what else could be causing the vessel to repeatedly fail please? Then I can suggest this to the next plumber (when they're available after Christmas!)
Great video - thank you. One thing I don’t understand- I get that disconnecting a wire cuts the power, but how does that prove the over heat stat is working? Adam
Thanks for your video. If you heat the water in an unvented cylinder just with immersion heaters. What’s the safety device to prevent the heater contact sticking and the heater staying on permanently and the cylinder going over temperature?
Great video and I love them all. I have a question though. Whenever I ask this question I always get a play on words....You cant work on an unvented cylinder/system with out being qualified. I get that but where does the zone valves and pump come in. Can an engineer fix/replace a 2 port valve or pump if they are not G3 qualified?
How would you know if the thermostat is working when it reaches temp. Will it be better for the tank to reach temp and the watch the valve close. Can reduce temperature on stat to see it it shuts off valve.
Is it also recommended to disconnect the expansion vessel from the hot water cylinder? Or will the process you have demonstrated give an accurate measure of the pressure in the expansion vessel.
Hello , excellent video , I’ve got a unvented cylinder for hot water with an ideal system logic plus 30 boiler , currently no hot water so not sure what’s wrong but central heating is fine and hot. This could prolbably do with a service and fix the hot water issue. I am also wondering whether to change it to a Combi boiler or just leave it as it is. Quite difficult to get honest sensible reliable advice. Wondered if you had any general remarks or advice. Generally I like to use a system that is easy , reliable and simple to use. I’m based in Bradford not too far from Halifax as it happens . Thanks
It would be helpful if the cylinder manufactures fit an easily accessible breaker switch to the cylinder thermostat. This would save service time and make it less likely for a service engineer to skip this very important safety check. Great video BTW.
Surely you have to disconnect the expansion vessel from the system to obtain the correct pressure reading as you do with a Combi boiler expansion vessel ?
Wouldn't it be a good idea when installing an unvented cylinder to install three pressure guages? They often come with PRV (pressure reducing valves) set at 3 bar. You could install one just after the isolation valve, immediately before the inlet group control. One more after the outlet of the inlet control group on the balanced cold feed line. The final one I would install on the hot water outlet of the cylinder. This way, all parts of the system could be monitored in real time. You could then monitor in real time the effect of say opening a WHB tap, or a shower mixer to verify things were working as they should.
I agree 100%.. and also a temperature gauge to show temp of water inside cylinder and a pressure gauge on expansion vessel.. start to add some intelligence into these units for vital readings.. Even my boiler and combi boiler all have electric gauges and readings.. why cylinders built so basic..
Good video Al How about an unvented cylinder with an internal air gap, not a remote expansion vessel. The first unvented cylinder I fitted was a megaflo which had an internal air gap and had a 5 step guide on how to regenerate the air gap. When air gap had diminished water would drip into tundish via expansion relief valve.
I have my epa next week, and part of it will ask what ppe will be needed and to right a risk assessment, i think i know what to say, but any advise would be great, I struggle in exam conditions 😢
Hi there can you help me please my system is showing a red light and says it needs resetting everytime I try to reset it the light goes green and then straight back onto red can you help please
Hi when you do a service on unvented cyclinders should you always check the D2 from the tundish to where it runs externally or would that just be done when first installed.
I imagine by discharging from the prv and TPR and it not overflowing meaning it's draining away ok that's enough. I see your point incase someone else has altered the discharge point , building work etc
Great video, nearly every bloke I know never tests any prv,s as they always leak or let by after use. Then they have to charge customer to replace and most of them say it wasn’t leaking before u came. Do you experience this?
Yeh, you can try say It was faulty and didn't withstand the tests as per the manufacturer's instructions. Good idea to let them know what the service is about
What colour wire on the cylinder stat did Roy cut off to keep the motorised valve closed? This is a brilliant video. Very informative. Keep up the work. 💪🏼
Pressure gauges on bicycle pumps like that are rarely accurate! Much better to use a dedicated, standalone gauge - they also release only a tiny quantity of air which means, assuming the vessel is not defective, checking the pressure is quicker. A secondary benefit is that, if the vessel was originally charged with nitrogen, you’re not downgrading it over time.
Hi CP6 service and maintenance check list. I am G3 qualified but don't know what sort of pad to use for proof of installation or service of cylinders Many thanks
Hi MR V, Pre-requisites for G3 course Trainees must hold a recognised trade qualification (e.g. NVQ/SNVQ Level 2 or 3 in Plumbing and Heating or Domestic Heating) OR be working towards one OR have evidence of a number of years’ experience in the plumbing or heating industry. A Gas Safe registered engineer with ACS qualifications can take the G3 qualification as their ACS meets the prerequisite. I hope this helps.
I did the G3 unvented cylinders and the water regs at the same time , that was in 2009 and I am an electrician. I was doing complete bathroom refurbs so adding unvented cylinders made sense .
I am really young heat engineer and can someone explain to me few things. First is why would you open t&p and safety valve? It's absolutely crazy to do that, since we all know that they are not sealing in 80% of times once they open. Absolutely doesn't make sense, who is paying new safety valve and t&p if they start to leak and if u don't have them in the van thats nice Trip to supplier and back, same goes for reducing valve, what if oring snaps or in this case plastic cartridge and u missthread? U can't get parts for them that easily, usually new prv goes in, again who is paying for that? Checking thermostat on cylinder again couldn't he just knock it on/off to see if it's cutting in/out instead leaving live wire exposed like that, in his case everything was supper reachable and handy but usually its not like that, and again even if stat fails the temperature in boiler will never go above the temperature set on boiler so standard temperature is what 60-70c and stat is set to 60-65 because leagionela. The only thing that logic is telling me is pump expansion vessel, check flow, check pressure, check stat is it cutting in/out, check for leaks, check safety valves if they are dripping that's it.
