Any idea what I'm doing wrong ? This is really bugging me !!, I just installed one of these motors and converted my tired manual roller shutter garage door to electric, I wired the up/down key switch OK but I am having a problem setting the upper and lower limits, I use the plastic key stick to set the upper limit by inserting it into the up pot , The shutter door then goes up to where I have set my upper limit but when I go to bring it back down by turning the key switch to the down position NOTHING HAPPENS ! - The only way to get the shutter to go down is to use that plastic limit setting tool and turn it in the second pot (the down pot) but when my shutter then reaches the down limit I set, when I move the key switch to the UP position the shutter refuses to move up, it is dead. I know this is something to do with the limit switches maybe not fully switching over to connect the opposite circuit - ie, once the shutter is at the down limit position, it is not fully engaging the circuit needed to reverse the motor rotation in order to bring the shutter up when I turn the key switch to the up position...any idea what I'm doing wrong ? 😕😕😕
Hii sir am from India i have good experience aluminium rolling shutters windows installation manual and automation testing with somfy motter I have to 3 years experience soudi Arabia i need job reply
Your video was truly helpful in understanding how to adjust a shutter. I was hoping to find out how to release a jammed shutter when it is rolled up too far and not be able to move the shutter down. Any help with that? The shutter is only 7 months old. Thank you.
Hi, thank you for making this video. How easy is it as a DIY project to install motors on shutters that are operated manually? It did not look really complicated. What xould possibly go wromg om the conversion? ;-) ?? What is the typical life expectancy of such an elecric set up? I saw in the comments several non-functioning sutters. What are end-off-life failures for elecrrified shtters? In the comments I read that blocking of the motion of the shtter will kill the motor? What more could spell disasrer? Would I need different motors for different shutters (2x 1.15*1.5 m ; 4x 3*1 25m ; 2x 2*1.25m)? The wider ones are quite heavy to pull up by hand. Further, I am comsidering to add a shutter for both the garden window and at the front door (2z 1.15*2.2m). And a big shutter ar the garden doors (3.3m high, 2.25 m wide). All om the same type of motor? Is it possible to connect the motors to a domotica system to automatically raise or lower the shutters? The biggest question is the shutter at the front door. What if the power fails or the motor fails? Or if the battery of the remote is empty?How do I enter my home then? Crowbar? There must be some kind of trick, I presume. Thank you for you time answering my questions! :-)
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My problem is that the engine does not stop, both when lifting and lowering. I tried to clone the remote control and something went wrong. Now the two blinds work simultaneously, and one does not stop. What to do? please help. Моят проблем е че мотора не спира, и при вдигане и при спускане. Опитах да клонирам дистанционното контрол и нещо се обърка. Сега двете щори работят едновременно, а едната не спира. Какво да направя? моля помогнете.
sorry for the delay. You seem to have wired the motors in parallel. You MUST have two switches. One switch for each motor only. Never use one radio receiver to operate two motors at once. Hope that helps someone... even if my reply is 3 years too late.
Hi sir i went through your video , very explanatory , i also leave in Australia and i want to convert manual to remote controlled motor , what motor is the most appropriate to use ? So many different ones whitch one is the right one?
Hii sir am from India I 3 y experience aluminium rolling shutters and fuom shutters Saoudi Arabia also India experience 7 y aluminium composite penal caledding facade work i need job can you please reply
Thanks Charlie! Ha. Sorry it took me 5 years to see this… but I’ve just shot another shutter video. I’ll edit and post it eventually. Hehe. Thanks for the comment!
id say letting customers try and set there own limits is a big no no. Just opening a can of worms up for your self.Guaranteed they will take door up and outta the guides and get door jammed in canopy. Better just to return to site and commision door/Repair it yourself if you know what you are doing. As for industrial doors you woudnt be using a tubular motor .More like a 3phs with a sprung barrel. And dont get confused with thinking the motor lifts the door.Obviously it does on shop front type but on industrial doors there is springs inside barrel what counter balance the weight of the curtain, the springs inside the barrel are there for two reasons. 1. To lift the weight of the curtain/counter balance if its sprung correctly 2. If motor fails door will drop but springs will tension up and act like a safety brake
michael perry Thanks for your reply. I'm instructing installers on how to setup tubular motors. (45mm/50mmØ only) I never mentioned shop fronts, nor to get customers to set their own limits. Shutters can be very dangerous (always) and every person that opens up a shutter to perform repairs MUST know what they are looking at i.e. be an installer/electrician. This video is designed towards installers and electricians, sorry for any confusion. Nobody is talking about shutters, curtains, springs etc... this video is strictly for the motor and the anti-break in device. However, thank you for your knowledge, you clearly know what you are on about. I agree commercial shutters with spring and anti-fall/auto-brake devices are incredibly safer and usually longer lasting, but are not the subject. Cheers :-)
Just wondering what sort of switch if any do you have on the inside wall in case anyone wants to control the shutter from inside the room without a remote control handy?
Hello thanks for the video. The shutter I have the motor hums it is hesitant to pull the shutter up or down. After it gets going it's fine. Ive checked the slats nothing jamming in the tracks. Using the manual override there is no issue with it operating. Is it a case of a failing motor? Thanks
No, sorry. Additinally, the motors do not come with Drive wheel, crown or bracket. You need to buy the correct sized parts to fit your existing tube size. Some are hex, some are octagonal, some are round. I hope this helps. 😊
Can the door jamming on one side going down cause either or the crown/drive to break or wear down? My roller shutter door is running for the correct length of time but is now not going up fully and when going down rolls too far and starts to unravel at the top. New motor is too expensive so I was wondering is it common for these to break? Thanks for any and all help
If the tracks are 'clamping' or stopping the shutter from travelling down, BAD things happen. AS for damage to the crown and wheel, i'm not sure what you mean by that... The drive wheel and crown are VERY strong and can withstand/lift up to 90kg (even on a ø50mm tube)! There is a possibility that if you have a 50mm round tube, a rivet has slipped and come loose. This will mean is just needs to be opened and re-riveted. A simple fix for 50c. Possible too that the top tube needs to be replaced because the installer/manufacturer didn't insert the motor into the tube correctly. Refer to my other installation retro fit video for a small insight into the notch that may need to be put onto the tube. Shutter components Australia VIC should be able to assist with all your enquiries. tanoisalegend
Great Video Mate. I"m having problem with my electric shutter blind. Every time i open the blind it would only open quarter the length and day by day length reducing. Its been couple of month . i use the blind on daily basis but couple one ago at one stage i did not open the blind for about 2 month. since it causing trouble. motor does seem to be working fine but blind would not lift all way up any help could be much appreciated and also shutter installed into the eve and it is hard to get to.
Hi Lucky. If its moving little by little in one direction but further in the other then the encoder is dead and the motor requires replacement. IT may just go 'click' once with every remote button press in up (for example) and may movve continuously for a few seconds in teh other direction... if either of these things happen, its got a dead encoder and bad news. you need to replace the motor. it could also (very unlikly) but you may have a problem with a slipping crown wheel (the non driving wheel on the tube)... this will cause the motor to stop every time the limit registers a fault (once per rev or once per 1/2 rev - for example) and retract the other direction... i hope this helps. if there has been an elecrical disturbance (lightining, there will be possible faults also)
Any idea why tubular motor is operating only one way? My shutters worked 100% for about 1.5 month. After that out of blue they wouldn't open. When pressing remote or on the receiver you can hear click from the relay and 220v appears on signal wire but shutter won't even move. I can open shutters manual and after pressing close (on either remote or side of receiver) shutters are closing perfectly. Stop button works every time as well. TIA
Where are you? Australia? USA? What brand motor? Remote controlled? Is there a separate radio receiver? Battery operated? Solar powered? Wall switch? Let me know and I'll be able to tell you more. If FAAC, and radio controlled, chances are the encoder has had a power spike and failed. Motor requires replacement. If hard wired (any brand) micro switch may be dead or switch on wall or receiver could have failed. Many reasons. More info please. :-)
iamjeffreydohnt thank you for prompt reply. I'm in Ireland. Don't know the make as motor is riveted inside the tube. I do have to fobs for remote operating. The main box with relays and 3 buttons on it's side (up, stop, down) is the receiver as well. Operated from mains. I don't think it is micro switch as when checked with multimeter and 220v is appearing on signal 1st signal wire when button down is pressed (on the side of receiver or remote) and 220v appears on 2nd signal wire when I want it to open. My only thought was that if the problem was the motor then it wouldn't work at all, and because its closing no bother I thought resetting limits could help.
The presence of 220 is good but the problem is from within the motor itself. It has micro switches. They are repairable and replaceable in many cases but (as the 2nd most experienced person in Australia for tubular motor repairs) I say, it's easier to replace it. Like for like. Check my other videos. I think i posted one about installing tubular motors. Finding the correct micro switch could be fun on eBay if you have The time (and a soldering iron and lots of time). My guess, either the motor has come adrift from the tube and the limits have skipped to a point where it's never going to operate in that direction (very very unlikely) or that the microswitxh that corresponds with that particular limit is blown or fused. (Very very likely) Good luck. Try calling FAAC automation Ireland. They will put you in touch with a company that can help you or put you in touch with a guy.
On most motors it is just a 4mm allen key, nothing special. Most manufacturers have a flexible tool like in the video that comes with the motor or can be purchased if it is a more sturdy tool.
The noise is due to resonating of the operation of the motor within a gyprock/drywall room that has a timber panel hung on it with the shutter on top of that. Take the motor onto a brick wall or a 'normal' installation and they are fine... Or more than fine.
I used to work for Somfy Australia as Technical Support and Customer service... for 4 years... I've been in the industry as a tubular motor expert since the last 12 years. I feel your pain mate. If you ever need any tech info on Somfy or FAAC tubular motors, let me know if you are having a hard time. I used to repair the tubular motors before that. Some people are quick on the uptake.. some... well lets say.. they are less than able.
iamjeffreydohnt Can the motor be repaired rather than replaced? Following a trailer hitting the bottom strip on my interlocking lathe roller shutter door its caused problems. The door is now travelling the right distance 'correctly set' but the door is stopping short of where it should and when going down is unraveling. Its like it has slipped/missed a couple of cogs. Can these be replaced as I was quoted €270 for a new motor? Thanks.
Darren Ross Sligo. I don't know which make/model motor it is but I got a quote from 'paramount doors' in Cavan who manufactured the components. I need a guide rail and base bar with weather strip too but the price they quoted for these was reasonable. It was actually €285 + vat. Thanks
Sorry for late reply. You can utilise a control board that uses a safety photo cell or a sensor (similar to that of an automatic glass door). It will trigger a stop, re-open or reversal when an obstacle or person approaches or gets in the way.
Great Video. I have inherited a problem. My electric Shutter blind, lower limit is not adjusting. Top limit is fine and adjustable and I have checked that adjustment and played with it same as you did. The lower adjustment just does not do anything. I have twirled the screw until the cows came home. Can this be faulty inside? Is there an easy fix? There is no make anywhere on this unit. It has an 8 sided corrugated roller. Any ideas?
Did you use a power drill with Alan key to adjust the limits? If so you may have sent the internal worm gear carrier off the wrong end of the thread. It's rare to have happen but can't be fixed without removing the motor from the shutter. Another possibility is that the little micro switch inside has failed. In either scenario, it's somewhat repairable. If you live in Australia I could tell you some people that may help.
+iamjeffreydohnt Thanks for your quick reply. As I said I inherited this problem so can't say if a power drill done the deed. We're in Costa del Sol, Spain. many thanks for your help.
Simha Pilot - just don't. It's complicated. Unless you have a sound understanding of electronics, my explanation would be wasted. Sorry. It ruins the motors' limit switches with a surge of power every time they hit a limit.
Thanks so much for the prompt response. If I understand well; if I wire 2 switches form the very same main power source, one for each motor it is not the same like wiring one switch and connect the motors in parallel. Does it mean that the limit is not a simple switch disconnection? Does It depend on transient from the other motor?
Simha Pilot no problem. Two switches will give two mechanical and electrical interlocking connections to the "opposing power direction" the important part. As long as the opposing direction is not connected (it WILL BE - in a single switch/parallel scenario) while the motor stops there is no problem. If connected in parallel the stationary motor will "jerk" and the limit switches will eventually fail.
no problem. I was tubular motor technician for 8 years. One switch per motor is fine. ...but DO NOT use two switches per motor or two motors per switch. See you!
They come with most motors. It's just called a Limit Setting Tool. One comes for free with every motor and your local shutter supplier probably has about 500 of these just laying about. If you drop past them and say Hi they will probably give you 10 for free!
