Thankfully, the later models have timing chains. No more timing belt replacement! The last timing belt change I performed was on my 99 Acura TL. Lots of disassembly/reassembly, but only needed basic hand tools......except for the little special tool I constructed to perfectly push in the new oil seal around the crankshaft. Finding TDC before you start this work is essential!!
I don't have that engine but this is helpful for anyone doing a timing job for many engines with timing belts. Still looking for used 4runner in my area. I use rockauto for my timing belt kits so far all good
I know the answer to this because it's the same on probably most transverse v6s that have dual overhead cams, you line up all the marks where everything's supposed to be and then you rotate it two full revolutions and hope that your little Mark on the belt and Mark on the cams are at the same position
of course you will likely have to do the procedure again after you take that balancer and lower timing cover off (in order to access the belt). Have to temporarily reinstall the bolt.
I'm pretty sure that's how it works. Starting with marks lined up, if you then turned the crank a full turn from TDC, I believe the cam marks would be 180° away from lining up with their respective marks and the number 1 piston would be at TDC but the exhaust valves would be open, therefore no compression. I think...
Hi! I have a few questions. 1. Is this TDC the position to use to check the valve clearances? 2. You put the marks on the 9oclock position on the pulleys. How do I know where to put my marks? In the same place at 9oclock, or somewhere different based on some other parameter I’m not understanding? 3. Is the main goal just to get the bottom dial at zero lined up with the notch on the bottom pulley? Thanks for any prompt reply/help you can give.
They do come with notches from the factory but he marked them for clarity. You do not have to put the engine at TDC to check valve clearance. The main goal here is to get the engine to TDC. In order to do this, the markets on both camshaft pully must line up with the marks while the lower pulley is lined up at 0 degrees. His video is made for brevity since he did not turn his crank bolt much. Sometimes it can take A LOT of cranking and multiple revolutions of the crank in order to get all 3 to line up where they should be. When checking for valve clearance you do not have to be at TDC. You just keep turning the crank bolt until the cam lobe is pointing straight up for the valve that you are checking. That means that the pointy end of the cam lobe is essentially at the 12 O'clock pointing away from the valve shim. Once you have that measured, you then continue to turn the crank until the next lobe you are trying to measure is again at 12 o'clock. So on and so forth...
