How to Set up Violin Sound Post 

Billy Jones pisa

Torre di Pisa (Pisa Tower) not Pizza, please.

@@MrsAntilope For some reason, I'm getting hungry.

I know him in person, in fact I made a violin for him.

my exact issue! Mr AV Daniel, any suggestions? doubt he would see our comments though.

All violins only have one sound post

No, pin is the best to transmit vibration from top to button. Violin is a classical instrument, no need for new invention. thanks for sharing.

AV Daniel Violin would you suggest me a link for a good violin sound post setter for buying online...like amazon

The violin and bow have had a large number of changes since its invention, and continues to change to this day. That said, a very thin metal pin as a soundpost sounds like a great way to damage an instrument.

What this man in the video said about the sound being controlled by the location of your violins sound post is very true. You can make a violin so loud and sharp it will hurt your ears. You can also make a violin so soft you will wonder if people can hear it. I say a good violin can be soft and still carry it's sound in any large Music Hall. That is the magic of the Antonio Stradivari design. That's why it has not evolved much from his instruments. To answer your post I want to say you could have a thin metal sound post with footing's on top and bottom. The dia. of the footing should be about 6mm. Picture in your mind a golf tee (that would be one end only, so you would need to have the same mushroom head on both ends. When engineers design piles they include footings and then builders who drive piles the also use those footings, for support. I personally would not do this. But seriously the man is right, you can experiment a little with the sound post material. Bone, horn, wood are all good. Metal may be good. Very important and why wood is used is that the sound post shall expand and contract at nearly the same rate as the violin itself otherwise you can split/crack the top plate. BTW, Violins certainly have evolved. Amati made thick violins, the top and bottom plate had real bellies carved into them. Stradivarius made thinner violins with the top and bottom plates having a thinner, or flatter form. I have a John Juzek made in 1919 and it has a shape more like an Amati than a Strad. All my other violins are very close to the strad design. It's so thick the finger board looks like it has collapsed unto the top plate! Very little space between them. I have built two violins from kits and also at age 11 years I repaired my violin. I had to remove the top plate to do that. I used a butter knife and elmer's glue. I had not yet learned about horsehide hot glue. I am no violin maker and I am not implying that I am. But I do know my way around the dynamics of a violin. Did you know a violin is designed to break apart upon a serious impact, rather than split the wood? You simply reassemble it and glue it back together. No harm done. But once the wood splits, then you have real damage. BTW you should be changing the length of your sound post if you live in a climate that has drastic temperature and humidity changes like from Summer to winter. If you do not, when the cold shrinks the wood as well as dries up all the humidity in the wood (which also shrinks the wood) your instrument is bound to eventually get the crack in the top plate near the sound post. You need to install a slightly shorter sound post in the winter months. Then when it gets warm and humid you need to install the slightly longer sound post. Also when you tighten the chin rest retaining clamp do not over tighten it. Or else you may crack the top plate from that area leading up towards the bridge. Many, many instruments have these cracks. Lastly and very important. The length of the sound hole has a great effect upon the volume of the instrument. The early sound holes were not as long as the final shape of the current sound holes. The modern violins are louder because of that. So sound holes absolutely effect the sound of your violin. OK, ok one more thing. Everyone tunes "A" to 440 hertz. In fact "A" can be as low as 397 hertz. Years ago we all used gut strings and they actually require a lower tuning tension in order not to snap/break. Only modern metal strings are now allowing us to tune the "A" to 440 without breakage. An "A" tuned to 397/416/430/435 all sound wonderful. Last-last last: Gut strings when tuned to a lower tension and a lower than 440 Hertz can and will last as long as any metal string in existence. The sound may not project as loud but it will carry just as far in a Music Hall. Peter

Nocturnal Podcasts my sound post also did, I only realized there was something wrong with if just now after playing for Soo long with noticing . I took my violin to a luthier a while ago to put it in place to me and now I see He did something with it. Please see the picture of my sound post link: goo.gl/vSbxFC How big should my sound post be? It was 4,5cm and now it is 5cm long.

When you loosen the strings, it takes preasure off the sound post and then it can fall, or move. So, when you install new strings, change one string at a time.

it is called sound post setter, and you can buy from violin tool shops, try online. good luck

Salamarie Marie 1, every violin has one sound post

Just be careful not to touch it.

can you live without a heart or soul? if you can, violin no need sound post, thanks

The sound post as well as transferring vibrations from the strings/bridge/wood top plate to the wood bottom plate, also prevents the wood top plate from collapsing/splitting from the pressure/tension of the "E" and "A" strings. So no, do not ever tune your strings to pitch with no sound post inside!