This was great Mr. Thanks. I'm waiting 4 my VTX 2 arrive from China, so I too can get 2 build me a 5.5" 6S bird. Thanks again 4 showing this mate, greets from Denmark. DC
I dont have spike abosrber … if only i sorder the capicitor like this way … is there any probelm?… i mean only the capacitor through motors wires without spike abosorber
You don’t neeeed the spike absorber, I didn’t run one for a while - but I had a few boards go unexpectedly so once I got replacements I started using it and I noticed a slight improvement in lifetime
Thanks for the tutorial, the step by step helps. I get what you’re saying about the voltage of the cap, how do you calculate the right uF? 470uF on a 6S, what about a 4S or 2S? Or is 470uF good all around?
Yes I would go with that on basically anything, maybe 1000 on 6s for a little extra filtering but 400 range should be good for 2s. It also depends on how bad the video is and what you’re trying to clean up.
OK so I fly a skyliner mk3 from Rotor riot and the power leads are on the side and I had a battery eject and I pulled the power pads completely off and had to patch it by putting it on the bottom of the pads but my question is how would you makes sure that wouldn't happen again thank you and fly high my friend
Try a zip tie on the xt60 attached to a standoff so it can't be yanked quite as much -- or use a batt strap to help hold it down so you eject the battery instead of killing the pads.
On the compositors I noticed with your shrink tube and the wires configuration that solder joints come in contact with the compositor housing. I understand that theres paint on the housings that would act as an insulator but if the paint becomes scratched on both sides where the solder joints attach it could ground out through the cap housing?
