I've been using a tubeless setup for a couple seasons now and love it. For those who doubt or complain, do us all a favor - keep using tubes and stfu, okay?
For tubless punctures you can carry a weldtite repair outfit which contains tools and tyre worms for fixing by the roadside. For the bigger slashes they also do a tyre patch repair kit which has patches suitable for the tyre which are not going to pop through the hole. The repair of a tyre is more of a workshop job than by the roadside.. I'm a happy tubless convert and am slowly giving all my tubes away to my mates who invariably never carry any spares.
That's one of the best methods I've seen. I've raced with tubeless over a year and I'm never going back to tubes because I'd be sacrificing speed AND comfort.
Thanks to the smart rubber flaps, with the milKit valves measuring and refilling sealant (as well as adding in the beginning) can even be done without releasing the air from the tire.
Like other tubeless setup videos, this one fails to mention that there are tubeless wheels and tubeless ready wheels. The difference is the former DO NOT need rim tape because they don't have any spoke holes to cover.
Very good video and thanx for showing the plugs as well! I noted that you added about 60ml of sealant... Schwalbe recommended only 30ml in the Pro 1's I purchased earlier i the year. This just seems WAAYYY too little. Any thoughts on the recommended quantity of sealant?
I've standardised on Orange Seal on all three pairs of wheels. I would go with 60ml on even 25c tyres - which is the minimum width I'd ever use on the poorly maintained roads in Berks regardless of tyre technology. Although various makes of sealant may be sort of compatible, I'd recommend not mixing them.
The floor pump with a canister of air to seat the tyre looks great for home, but what if you need to use the repair kit for a puncture on the side of the road? How do you get it to seat and pump back up? Or does the sealant hold the bead in place once it's seated?
Small punctures will fix themselves with a few spins of the wheel spraying a bit if sealant. Larger holes which the sealant cannot fix will need to be fixed with a tyre plug it tyre worm pushed through from the outside while the tyre is still on the rim. In most cases the tyre will remain seated on the beads and then only requires a hand pump or co2 to be inflate. If your tyre has slipped of the bead and hand pumping will not re seal you will have to put in a tube. The combination of rim and tyre that works is worth slot. I use schwalbe pro one and Stan's grail rims. Stan's rims do not have a big shoulder on the rim which makes getting tyres on and off easier but you must heed the max inflation numbers. Double wrapping a rim where the tyre is too loose is also done by some wheel builders.
James the RAF pilot... Nice tash chap. Great video, looked so easy I’d forgotten all my pals painful woes getting the,selves set up😁 Might try getting my Gravel Bike set up👍🏻
If you're setting up tubeless for the first time do yourself a favour, don't use Continental 5000 tl. They're are beautiful tyres, truly excellent on the road, but I'd rather liquidise my own testicles than fit them again. Schwalbe are far, far,far,far easier to fit. But if you like pain, have at it.
I can usually find the valve by looking and seeing where the valve is. Once I see it, I've found it. Haven't missed one yet. I like tubeless but sometimes it's a right pain in the arse and you have to carry a tube anyway.
Yeah that made me laugh, 'that way you can find the valve really easily' I use something called 'eyesight' to do that, I've had it for years and it works really well
I didn't want to try TL setup because of the mess it can cause on the side of the road in case of a big puncture. But after seeing the video of you making a hole and fix it like a car... Meh why not :)
When I have a large hole in the wheel (how the video simulated it with the screwdriver) there is one decisive question: Does the "repair-kit" fix the wheel properly, that means even for the future or is this only a "quick first aid" just only to come home and there I have to put on a new wheel? I think this question is crucial because tube-less-wheels are at least in Germany very expensive. For example Giant ask for there Cardex-wheels 90 EUR for ONE wheel! Wow! Would be happy to get some answers from guys how have here the knowledge about my concerns ...
Coming from a long-term clincher user, I'm ashamed to admit but I'm veering towards tubeless now 🙈. Granted, they are expensive, very fussy to setup and maintain as opposed to their clinching cousins, but the benefits outweigh the detriment. Also, team them up with the Vittoria Air-Liner and the risk of getting stranded due to a puncture, could be almost low.
You can make it easier for someone who has a regular inflator by putting a tube in the first place, pump it, let it pop into the rim, then release the air and remove the tube. This way you have one side of the tire already on the rim and it should be a lot easier to pop the other side in place.
Another way is to hold your palm over the valve and press the tire down and start pumping. Without a tube. Don't need anything other than a normal floorpump. Worked for me everytime. 5-10 times during 2 years. Here is something that works with a handpump on MTB tire: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YniNofRKAwY.html I haven't tried that on a roadtire so don't know. Remove valvecore, start pumping. Remove pump and quickly reinstall valvecore.
That's good advice - even if you're not keeping the seal on the bead, I do this with almost all my new tubeless installations and install them (with a tube) overnight to remove the creases and folds from out-of-the-box tires. They seat and seal much more easily.
My trials with Finish Line sealant were very UNSUCCESSFUL. Others at my LBS have also had the same experience of Finish Line sealant not being air tight. Other sealants work just fine.
You've skipped over what's often the most difficult part & that's getting the tyre over both rim walls! I've fitted some tyres with the wheel in my lap with the last part of the tyre's bead upwards & away from me then rolled the last part over using both palms. I once took a new tyre with my bike for a free annual service. When I got home I realised that it was a lesser tyre than the one I'd supplied - they had knackered the tyre that was the same damn make as the bike. I never bothered returning to that shop. Some tyres can be an absolute nightmare to fit which is why many roadies won't go tubeless & some MTBers are returning to innertubes! You should always be able to refit a tubeless tyre out on a ride - fortunately a tyre that's been fitted should go back on a lot easier than a new one. The industry really needs to sort out proper standards - just maybe hookless rims & tyres will enable this if folk don't over-inflate them & kill themselves in the process!
yes, it's as good as normal rim tape and saves you the hassle if you ever go tubeless. I double tape some wheels depending on experience - rims are not all the same exact diameter so double (or more!) layers help increase diameter and seat loose tires better. The opposite also happens; some rims are oversized and mounting the tires is a fragging pain. In that case you try to use as little tape as you safely can (1 layer, about 10 cm overlap at the valve).
im sticking to tubes i have a mountain bike and have replaced aluminium nipples due to sealant leaking and corrosion to nipples and at 90psi how long will rim tape last and not leak if rims are without rim tape then may be yes
How long will rim tape last? Years and years. I don't know exactly how many but 2 years minimum. I had no problems with rimtape or nipples. Maybe the rimtape wasn't on correctly. You need 2 layers of it, so 2 times around the tire.
@@MrPunkassfuck same here, no issues at all with the tape - Schwalbe, Stan's, or DT Swiss. This was a weird complaint. You could also use ammonia-free sealant if you're that concerned.
@Ross Allen Yes i have . Carbon rims are stubborn and have sanded lightly. Even bike shops hate it . They applied a particular brand it fell right off. They run electrical tape over nipples then second layer rim tape. I have gorilla tape which many use
Setup is a noun and means the way in which something is arranged. Set up is a verb and refers to the action of putting things in order or arranging them.
£44.99 for a syringe and a piece of pipe. Talk about a rip off. I use Muc Off sealant which you squeeze in direct from the pouch. I've never had a problem with it and it only £8 to do 2 tyres.
I never hear anyone saying what the weight of the sealant is compared to a tube. They always say tubeless tires are heavier but you save by not using a tube, but the truth is the amount of sealant you use is equal to some light weight tubes. Where is the saving? Certainly not in the cost of the sealant, the rim tape, the valve stem, or the other stuff required to inflate the tires. Going tubeless is the dumbest thing to come to road bike cycling. We need to call out the industry and these reviewers who are getting paid to lie to us. Inner tubes are so much easier and I'll never give them up.
@Wooly Chewbakker Been riding bikes for many many years and didn't know pinch flats were such an issue the we had to change the standard. Truth is I have had pinch flats with tubeless also. Not long ago I ran over a small piece of steel fence post that flatted the front and rear both and the sealant didn't work, where if I had a tube and some patches I could have used I wouldn't have had to walk 5 miles.
I am not willing to pay the price (both in money and the faff involved by using such setups) for riding tubeless, no matter what gains it might offer me. I get about one flat every 5.000 km in average, I don't race, I don't care about saving 5-10W by improving my rolling resistance, it's not worth it. And not to mention the day when you will eventually puncture your tubeless tyres, and that will happen, you'll mostly likely not have a spare tube with you, and even if you do, installing it will be much more complicated because tubeless tyres and rims have far lower tolerances and there will be sealant oozing all over the place. Thanks, but no thanks.
@@garethhelliwell9736 www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/schwalbe-one-tubeless-clincher. Basically no difference for 25c road. Maybe you went to better tires when going tubeless. For MTB yes worth it, and I had it for a year, but there are potential issues if you don't keep it maintained. E.g. if not sealing then the bead can be partially stuck on the rim or the valve ring can be stuck on with sealant, seen both happen and very difficult to sort on trail.
nope, it depends on the brand. Finish Line requires more - I've experienced this myself, it's way more watery and the liquid itself doesn't congeal like latex-based sealant (Stan's, Effetto Mariposa, etc.). On the flipside it's supposed to last longer in the tire without drying up.
