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Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I got the planer from my grandfather, so I had no jig to set it back up for the depth to the holder after taking the blades in and out three or four times I calculated that the blade should be 34 mm away from the inside of the holder. That seem to provide the best results.
much better job than I do making videos. Nice showing various different methods and top shelf job on terminology. Thanks for taking your time to put this together
Don’t mind if I add some suggestion here... Normally electric planer blade’s tip was HSS,it doesn’t bend only chipped.and you want to sharpen it on diamond sharpening stone.cause the diamond bite and sharpen HSS faster and it will alway flatten and doesn’t get uneven rather than normal wet stone.diamond stone doesn’t require water for lubricate but with some water it will prevent the metal dust flew all around just remember to dry the stone or those metal dust will rusty your diamond stone. Make sure you inspected the blade was good in line even you had the blade adjustor cause this thing sometime will go Unbalance.make sure those bolt are tight, the line was good and have fun.
If you have a TCT type blade (width about 5mm)-long strip with notch type, then I just sharpened one without taking it out of the planet, the clamp offers a nice edge to guide some fine sandpaper along it (double a 400 grit to make it nice and stiff). Looking at all those techniques, I think the whetstone with guide-jig is essential if you have one of those large non-tct type blades.
I have to say those blades were looking pretty gnarly before you sharpened them, and the demo with the deep pass through that wood speaks for the job you did sharpening them. No judgment here though. My planer won't plane hot butter hardly, so I hate to see what those blades are going to look like. There might not be anything left to sharpen. lol Anyway, this is a very good instructional video, so I'm going to have to tackle this myself now. Thanks for posting this.
I have 4 of those Makita 1900b planers ,good strong simple design and it's great to be able to use the resharpenable blades with them as well ,cheers from Australia for the video .
@@littlebrother82 Yeah mate you can use a steel ruler etc and line it up so the blade is just touching when the straight edge is flush with the back plate .
It seems there are two different types of blades for these planers The one you show and one that is just about 1/8 in wide x 3 1/4 long. Can either one of these work in any makita hand planer ? I like the blades you have better then what I have.
Interesting video I bought my planer from a sale it took me a while to work out why it is not cutting the previous owner had fitted the blades in the wrong place even though it looked the obvious slot for them and even looking on youtube now i have it cutting like a new planer
How I recommend this. First use the flattest hard surface most people have, not wood tables top but plate glass such as mirror or window horizontally. Several grades of wet dry paper coarse to super fine 120 to 1000 grit. You have to flatten the back side first till shiny across the edge back at least a 32 nd inch . It doesn’t have to be the entire surface, just the tip. Move forward and back or circular but not sideways alone. Then match angle of bevel and ride some type of jig to lock that angle. Not fancy the wood jig works but it too must ride the surface to not change angle. For more durability you can make a secondary micro bevel at the tip. A steeper angle is thicker and less prone to roll over but that requires more precision. Then they are factory or better given hss or carbide you start with.
Nice man, I'm looking into getting one of these but I was kinda scared I would mess up sharpening the blades. Thanks for the tutorial, have a nice one!
Hey I'm here to see how he's replacing blades. I hit hidden screw and need some visuals... Too many videos had me thinking the thin carbide piece was the blade. I wouldn't sharpen unless you had a bench grinder or are familiar with it sharpening. Even approximate sharpening on far less precise blades is a skill set onto itself. The belt sander he has, which is I believe the 9403? is an absolute beeeaaasstt. Makita. Expensive and doesn't come with anything, but it became my favorite tool ever, immediately. DO NOT USE EITHER MACHINE anywhere indoors or near anything outside. Wear a full face mask. Don't be dumb and excited like I was ; ) Sander will kick your A** but can easily take place of a planer. I've literally taken an inch off decent pieces of warped hardwood that I cured. It's a super powerful machine, and I wouldn't free ride (I'm sure he's got it locked in). I think for all of the time/effort, you might as well just spend the 10 bucks on new blades for such a precision machine and save any hassle or screw ups.
Yes, he did because to seat the blades the planer has to be on it side. So the bevel on this 4mm depth blade has to placed in the depth gauge and seated in the plane with the bevel facing down. When seated, and the planer is placed foot down the bevels will be facing upwards. With the bevels facing up, the lowest cutting angle is achieved. This makes the smoothest cuts with minimal tearout in the wood being planed.
Cool, good practice to learn how to maintain your own tools, especially in these days where its not as viable unfortunately to go and support your local sharpening service.
The bevelled edge has to be down, so when the plane is upright the bevelled edge is upwards, so the flat side is against the wood, and you get a smooth and accurate cut. Looks like you've never used a plane before.
as a complete newbie like only having used an electric planer twice in my life, looking at the start of the disassembly of the blades, the metal bracket was attached to the flat side of the blade when dismantled. The bracket was also attached to the flat side of the blade upon assembly so I would like to disagree? the bevelled edge is facing you if you was to look at the planer from the front as if it was coming towards you.... would I be correct? I will accept if I'm wrong though.
The blades are upside down. As a result the cutting edge is not aiming in the direction of rotation but is instead almost square to the rotation. The blade will work well and will be worn down by the timber being planed.
Hi! Excellent video! Could you maybe post a picture of the new blades on the depth gauge (excuse my english) as my planer did not come with such a tool but in am interested in making one myself. I just need to know what size it needs to be. Thank you in advance for the effort! Greetz from the Netherlands
@@Caliber8Tools and would you please upload a picture of the item that makes sure the blades are in the correct depth before you reinstall it to the planer? Or if you could give me the measurements I can make one myself
It's the thing you show in your video at 16 minutes and 43 seconds. My planer is missing this so I would like to make it my self. What are the measurements of this?
Dear Greetz, not every planer is the same. This is a 4mm depth Makita model electric planer. What make and model of electric planer do you have? It might help Caliber8 Tools and to help you.
@@BigHenFor hey, thanks for the extra explanation. In the meantime I bought one for my planer in a local hardware store. So I am set to go. Thanx again, Pieter Dijkema
As a complete newbie like only having used an electric planer twice in my life, looking at the start of the disassembly of the blades, the metal bracket was attached to the flat side of the blade when dismantled. The bracket was also attached to the flat side of the blade upon assembly so I would like to disagree about the blade being installed upside down, the bevelled edge is facing you if you were to look at the planer from the front as if it was coming towards you.... would I be correct? I will accept if I'm wrong though.
See how planer moving forward so slow,you can't force it to move faster Because the blade is installed incorrect,the bevel should be facing outside or under...that blade position facing inside is for end grain...
@@Caliber8Tools thank you sir. Buying a HSS blade is better than buy a diamond grinder. HSS is a Cheap solution and low maintanance cost. But spend time a lot. TCT blade very difficult to sharp and brittle like a glass. I think TCT not recomended for resharpening.
You can get a good use out of tct or carbide blades before they have to replaced or sharpened. As long as sharpening is cheaper than a brand new blade you are good. But I agree about the convenience of HSS blades/teeth.
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ru-vid.comUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Sir, reading comments, seems obvious there is an issue about your installation. Checking MANY other available videos clearly show the bevel being installed UP toward the base of the planer. You installed the bevel DOWN. Yet, you have not acknowledged your mistake, nor corrected it, nor taken this video down........IRRESPONSIBLE.........
Are you insane! Your blade assembly is very2x wrong, and use the blade holder/guide when sharpening.even the planer sound's is like it's not sharp,because the blade is turning the other way.
