Notes... once saw a man put a razor edge on a knife with a clay brick. Have not seen anyone work the edge only backwards, rather than pushing the edge into the stone. Suspect your edge is thin and ragged. Thanks, I have more to learn, only been doing this for 62 years.
Nice Ryky. There are uses for toothy edges just like yours. Paper isn't something I cut often but tomatoes are. The knife has piqued my interest. Your grinding technique is teaching me some fine points. Thanks.
How do you feel like these would work for Japanese carbon steels (blue paper etc) that are often a bit too brittle for ceramic stones (according to my experience)? I love my Japanese knives and would like to have low maintenance low mess stone for apartment use.
Thank you for video. Yes, the diamond plate is very fast and efficient. But if you look at high magnification, it is seen that the knife edge is torn. Persistence in this edge will be much lower. What do you think about? You studied this matter?
you should check out CLiff Stamps videos on sharpening and stone to blade composition matching. Certain types of stones will cut into metal at a certain hardness while other types might struggle with that steel type. stainless steel, high chrome, high vanadium, etc can have a big effect. hence why you might feel a steel glide over a certain type of stone whereas another blade will grab and get cut
I just use an Atoma 140 on knives and then I polish up the blade on a ceramic rod, using very light pressure on both. Seems to work as good as anything, if not better, at a tiny fraction of the time and cost of going through a whole series of expensive water stones.
Is it necessary to wet the atoma for sharpening, will this not damage the diamond plate in the long run? Just bought an atoma 140 and up until I saw this video I didn’t think the required water to use.
Excellent video as always professor. I was thinking of getting an Ultra-coarse grit diamond stone to thin out a blade of mine and these Atomas seem very affordable and effective. However, while watching parts of this video, I didn't notice much metal swarf developing as you were sharpening, but then I realized that was because you rinsed the surface of the stone every so often. For me, when a stone produces a lot of swarf, it usually lets me know the stone is putting in work and chewing right through the metal, which is what I'm looking for. Does this stone chew through steel quickly, or is it adequate?
I use worn out atoma 140s for thinning on knives that I'm not concerned about the finish on. I'll take a worn 140 and a worn 400 and use them as thinning and then the 400 to clean up the finish. It will wear them pretty quickly but that's speaking from the point of view of me being a professional sharpener that sharpens A LOT of knives everyday. If you are using it for home use then a fresh 140 to thin will be highly aggressive and last you a reasonable amount of time then use a 400 to clean up the deep 140 scratches. It will do the job quickly and aggressively but at the expense of wearing the stone and leaving a terrible finish that you will have to correct. Personally on my kitchen knives and other clients none commercial kitchen knives I will use a shapton glass 120 to thin on and then over to the 500HR to clean up the finish. Your not gonna wear a fresh 140 out thinning on it to quickly in home use but if you are thinning say 10 knives a week then yeah your gonna burn one up in 4-6 months. That's why I keep slightly worn out 140s that I use as reprofiling stones and use them as thinning stones until they start to get overly slow cutting and then They hit the trash bin.
hey friend, love the channel and subbed. I'm really getting into these german, swiss, chinese and japanese knives! I just learned that tidbit of info you gave advising NOT to rock cut with many japanese knives. I have a blackened rough finish japanese nakiri with blue steel #2 I got on amazon for 50 bucks, it's not a famous maker but the artisan must have been skilled because it is deadly sharp. Sharpest knife i have in fact. My mom loves to use it and do rocking motion cuts even though the belly is pretty flat, but I've been noticing small chips in the rounted tip and a few spots on the belly. I put two and two together and surmised she must be torquing it a bit when she does a rock cut, and it's a thin sharp blade with more brittle steel. Do you think since I got a good price on it I should just let me mom use it how she wants, or should I tell her to only rock cut with my Victorinox Fibrox or Wusthof 9" carbon steel chef knife?
hey John. well, you can try to tell her, but many people probably will have a hard time remembering what to use and how, specifically. i say, let her do with it as she pleases, as long as she enjoys it. you just have to make sure you don't use that knife too often, so you don't have to look at the chips too often.
Love ur videos, I would like to recommend a USB microscope camera to show your edges...u can get them dirt cheap from Bangood and such...it would make your videos so much better, even bad knives shred paper, cheers pal
On really dull knives, you may need to remove more material than usual. And you have to grind a lot to prematurely wear down the blade. You are only aiming to remove enough material to expose the new edge
As a novice, I can not find a definitive answer to the question " proper way to sharpen a knife on a diamond stone". I can find lots of videos of knife sharpening on stones, but none on a diamond stone. With the other stones, some show pushing and pulling, while others show just pulling toward you or just pushing away. Some show a straight line stroke while other show a linear curving mothing. I'm lost! I find it hard to believe that all methods are perfectly equal.
How do you feel about using diamond whetstones (like the ones from DMT for example) as opposed to typical japanese whetstones? Do you feel do they work just as well or would you be cautious on using them on more expensive knives?
i'm not a huge fan of DMT plates. i think they are OK, but wear a but too fast for. but in general, diamond stones create deeper scratch patterns, so you just have to know that. i use my diamond stones on all my knives, IF they are called for, so as long as you know what you are doing , you'll be fine. what are you looking to do?
Diamond is perfect for sharpening tools such as chisels before stropping. They're also the only thing that will sharpen things like tungsten carbide. For a large curved edge like on a knife you'll want to finish up on a fine whetstone since it's not easy to strop.
not sure what your budget it, but this kit i built myself and is what i use for my personal knives store.burrfection.com/collections/sharpening-kits/products/naniwa-ryky-edition-5-piece-sharpening-pro-kit
hi, first of all, thank you for answering. and i meant if its okay to sharpen a single bevel knife on diamond plates? although it would be cool if you do a video to see the results!
i see. yeah, you can. most diamond stones are a bit rougher, but you certainly can. i'll make a video show this at some point. its' in que for videos for me to make. thanks for writing. i answer all legit messages on my channel. though it may take me a few days to respond, i do read every one of my messages.
hello again! so i recently bought japanese whetstones to sharpen my deba white steel, and the results are amazing, but i also noticed some small rust patterns on the blade while sharpening, maybe im spending too much time sharpening or are there any tricks to prevent rust while sharpening? thank you
@@thomaswilliams5499 nope, very very rarely. And when I do dip my toes into cooking its normally baking which doesnt often require a great knife or any knife
