Great video! Loved seeing the shots from the third section of super harsh squares of light. Loved the end results and how you balanced! Can’t wait to see more vids like this! 🤘🏻
Finally!!! someone who explains with clear examples and gives an example of different situations. I have been doing digital photography for years and although I even learned to develop it was very little time that I was able to take advantage of photographing on film, so years after I want to do it again, I have many doubts and I have been searching many RU-vid channels without finding an answer. Many other photographers just do marketing and conclude nothing. I thank you. It would be great if you could make a video of this same exercise performing push, even in situations where there is no underexposure to better understand the effect of push on a film. Thanks dude, keep going.
Hi Carlos, we totally understand and can relate!! We're in peak busy season right now but have been filming quite a bit more content for release next year, including videos on different scanning methods, push processing color and black and white, and our journey to process ECN-2 in correct chemistry and remove the remjet with a hand built machine. Goal is to always be informative, helpful, and to the point!
Back in the day when we were all shooting film, particularly large format, we would just meter for the shadows and cut development. That would keep the highlights down This works very well when you shoot indoors but you want things outside through the window to also have a lot of detail.
With traditional paper printing that makes a ton of sense! In the era of most film being scanned it's less optimal as you can simply adjust the inversion curve being used - so less risk of color cast than adjusting the development!
All good, but you should be choosing your aperture based in the look you want, and then let the meter tell you the shutter speed. Not the other way around.
great video and is still relevant up to date. My question is as what others have asked about shooting portra at 200 instead of the box speed, when developing did you tell the lab that you didn't shoot it in box speed or just develop it as normal?? thanks for the answer..
Thanks! No push, just exposed for the shadows and scanned with care! Consumer films need extra attention when shooting as they are more susceptible to color casts in the shadows that pro film, even when espoused properly.
@@coastalfilmlab question, you metered for 200 and kept it at box speed to trick the meter into thinking its 200 to overexpose without pushing the film right?
@@bogusbooger Hi! Thanks for your question. Metering is a really deep topic we're excited to cover more soon, but short explanation is that metering for iso 200 in the shadows = overexposing *the shadows* by one stop. This going to give a very bright, lower contrast exposure with tons of shadow detail that will be very easy to scan. "Push processing" is a chemical process by which developing time is increased to add contrast to the negative to compensate for underexposure. This makes the film a little easier to scan but *does not* increase the sensitivity of the film to light.
Thanks for this very helpful video. Just one question, can you please explain why did you choose to shoot at iso 200? Is this something common to do while shooting under harsh light?
Hi! He shot at 200 here to get more shadow detail. It's not 100% necessary but if you desire cleaner, less color shifted shadow tones it helps a lot. =)
The meter was getting fooled by the backlighting in the scene! You have to think a bit for your light meter and how it relates to your subject and how you want the photograph to look.
No push! Push will significantly increase contrast. You typically want less contrast in harsh daylight, easier to add after the face if that's the look you're going for =)
