Would be nice to see how this works with a medium format digital back. I want to buy one but am unsure how it works and can't determine whether or not this product will actually suit my needs.
@@anthonyknight5114 If you're doing landscapes with something very close in the foreground, get a nodal bracket by Really Right Stuff, or any other brand. For most landscapes, photoshop is so good, it just stitches it everytime without problems, even handheld shots stitched. Also, for most scenes, no need for extra equipment.
@@alfredv9902 I appreciate your feedback. However, I'm using my 4x5 camera for portraiture with a medium format digital back, so stitching is out of the question.
This statement conflicts with the statement on your website, at least for the Sony Mount which states a 120mm lenses or longer. I dont understand why 90mm focal length lenses wont be able to focus to infinity with this adapter. Cant the bellows just be collapsed further or a shorter focal length such as 90mm be used with recessed lens board to focus to infinity? Or is the infinity focusing issue due to distance the sensor is set behind the natural focal plain of the view camera and the length and/or diameter of the extension tube? If this is the case would not a shorter set back help address the issue...? Specifically, IF I were to buy a Nikon Zf with it's relatively flat front camera body I could modify the extension tube to mount the camera body much closer to the adapter plate. With the Nikon's shorter 16mm flange to sensor distance, and the closer mounting distance I could perhaps trim 26mm off the sensor set back distance, and maybe be able to use lenses in the 100, 105 and 110 mm range at infinity?
I would like to add one option: shooting the Fotodiox 4x5 adapter you can increase the FOV and the MPixel by shifting the back standard left-right-up-down in addition to shifting only the Fotodiox adapter.
Polaroid Suncovers grey rubberstring Version has holes in sidehinges.perfect sideprotecton. Sits perfectly on forehead without string.Sits ontop of your glasses perfectly. If not excessively Big ocuars.
Been working on the same scenario. I made a 4X5 holder for a 4X6 cm camera and am now adapting it to a 4X5" camera. I like the idea of the cardboard to make it work but I was thinking of attaching the 35mm size camera to a device that would move so I could capture all of the viewing area by moving the camera up or down. I'm sure someone makes something like this. Would be a great boom to large format Imaging by stitching 6 or even 8 or more images together to get poster size images. But there will also be computer power to deal with as these images would be about 500mb or greater in size. Cheers, Sid
4 images HBV to Linhof 4x5 is the way to go. rotation similar. only no graflok 4x5. not possible to change mount. so we need a camera other than linhof-3dprinted matching this genious back. around 250 usd. ebay rotate Hasselblad V-Linhof 4x5 adapter.
Korona Long Roll 70/4x5 adapter can shoot a bit larger than 6x9. around 60 x 93mm. must recheck. has also a 645-mask. ok nondigital. can also use shorter, any lens my cam can use.
On eBay for linhof technica 4x5 and both hb-mag or digutalback Formats rotate 4x Adapter. No IT cannot fit graflok 45 international. Fotodiox should Play in this League but they know what to do. Vertex with FF ML the right choice.
The design flaw of this adapter is that it places too great of a distance from the original film plane to the sensor of the attached camera, apparently only provide room for a locking screw, which is really not needed. The bracket is much longer than it needs to be and this prevents focusing any lens with a focal length less than 110mm. By squeezing the bellows it also restricts most lens movements. A dedicated wide 4x5 camera and a recessed lens board may help counter the design flaw.
Thanks for the input and I'll pass it onto our design team! One of the challenges we face with this design is the hand grip of the adapted camera, which bumps into the body of the adapter. This is why the camera and its sensor have to be set back as far as they are, and we also have to factor in the camera with the largest hand grip so all the cameras in a mount type will work.
Do you provide a cap to cover your sensor while attached? I shoot 4x5 film as well as digital. I'm trying to understand why you would go through all this effort when you can just take a pano. I'm also wondering if the older 4x5 lenses can resolve images well on a digital sensor. I would imagine the chroma would be pretty bad.
No, we don't carry a cap like that at this time. This is a product for people who want to use a digital camera on a 4x5 camera. As you've pointed out, there are limitations to this, but plenty of people still like having the option.
It doesn‘t really matter, as the large format lenses can anyway not resolve that fine (except you use the versions designed for digital backs, which have a smaller circle too)
You could always adapt an EF-M camera to our Canon EF 4x5 back with our EF to EF-M adapter: fotodioxpro.com/products/eos-mft?_pos=40&_sid=4964a901c&_ss=r
I was looking at the Mamiya 645 version but can't figure it out: why does it have apparently two focus screens the same size and do they account for the change in image composition from that focused on the ground glass screen to the film plane or not? The latter would be a bit of a disaster in having to crop and focus again. I've only used straight 5x4 film and 120 in roll film backs. Been a long time away so maybe I'm a 'noob' again.
Yeah, it would. The main issue would be size. To get the camera sensor to cover the whole 4x5 area, the adapter would have to be much wider. Thanks for the input!
It's currently out of stock, but we get new stock in regularly. You can sign up to be notified when more come in: fotodioxpro.com/products/4x5-gfx-pro?_pos=1&_sid=7cc79a3ee&_ss=r
I just received my adapter and tried It on my horseman 4x5 and it would not fit. I then tried it on my Toyo field 45AII and it fits perfect, also fits fine on my Toyo G3.
I don't get it. A large format camera usually has the ability to shift in every direction. Why attach something to it that shifts by itself. a simple digital camera adapter and then moving the rear standard would do the same?!
Think of it as a digital back, but the sensor is smaller than 4x5, so you have to move it around and take multiple shots to capture a percentage of the 4x5 image.
I am doing this with a Toyo D45m studio camera and no Fotodiox adapter. It gives me 60mm geared movement on one axis, and 90mm on the other. The biggest issue is dealing with the size of the stitched files.@@gg-qj3gc
I was reading the desciption of "Fotodiox Pro Lens Mount Adapter - Canon EOS D/SLR" on the website but it says "These Do not work on 4x5 field cameras!" Is there a reason for that? I am using a Chamonix F2 with a Gradflok back so I think it should be fine?
I've done this many times with great success by handholding my camera and stiching together multiple shots. What is this product for? You can do brenizer panoramas without all that cumbersome gear.
Hey Sotiris, thanks for the question! This product is for people who want to shoot through a large format camera and get more of the large format experience. Think of it as a more affordable digital back for large format camera users. If you're not interested in shooting with large format cameras but want a similar look, your method is perfect and we recommend it to people who don't want to get into large format camera collecting, but your question is kind of like asking a car collector "why collect and drive antique cars when modern cars do the same thing and are cheaper and easier to maintain?" The fact is, there are different kinds of photographers out there, some who stick with modern gear and some who love to tinker with old gear too, or fuse old and modern gear together. We try to offer products for all kinds of photographers here at Fotodiox.
I use this adapter to shoot architecture with rectilinear vertical and horizontal lines, as well as shooting products with perspective correction and front swing+ tilt for maximum focus-depth. These are not easy to do handheld. Clients love the 138mp composite image.
Sotiris Stefas: The Brenizer panorama is only useful if you use a longer lens like 85mm and above. Anything shorter than 50mm and below then you’ll start to introduce lens distortion in each of the separate images that will be stitched together. This in turn, will make the final stitched image look weird if viewed closely. This Fotodiox adapter however, doesn’t cause any distortion whatsoever as it uses a digital camera’s sensor to scan multiple areas of the image circle from a large format lens. So as result, you’ll get a true large format look that is true to the original image circle of a large format lens. You could also capture true, large format wide landscape photos at smaller aperatures using any wide angle lens, which is something that the brenizer method cannot achieve. I’ve used both the brenizer panorama method as well as large format cameras, so I can confidently say that they are two different beasts. The brenizer panorama method can create some beautiful panorama bokeh shots, but it is not the same look that the image circle of a large format camera lens produces. In conclusion, they are two completely different beasts and should really not be compared. Different techniques, for different styles of photography.
you should use medium format lenses, ok ... but with new matrices, for example Nikon D850 the quality is not satisfactory .. who has experience with other lenses?
I have a cambo 4x5 ... well actually two .. I ordered this mount for sony E 3 months ago... would be nice if you deliver any time soon to kamera express.. but Im wondering... do you remove the glass from the backmount.. otherwise I do not see how this fits ... or is there some mechanism you can use to modify it to easily remove looking glass so you can slide this in and still lock it in place... because the back is produced to slide in a 4x5 negative film holder .. any experience anyone ?
This adapter is designed for garflock backs, which can be easily removed. So yes, you will have to remove the graflock back that has the film holder and ground glass from your camera to mount this adapter in its place.
@@FotodioxInc aaaah you remove the current back from your cambo and than put this one... got it.. Again, please delivery this order to Kamera Express Ntherlands.... Im waiting for 3 months now for my order, sony e mount version
interesting product and (genuine question): why would I choose this for my FujiFilm GFX 50R to work on my 4x5 when Fuji offers its own adaptor? Besides cheaper price, what's the advantage of your adaptor? Many thanks
Question. If I Composer with ground Glas. Isnt the digital Sensor of a emount Sensor of Focus Then? There is an additional distance from emount to sensor
You'd be surprised how well well Photoshop can blend motion blur in a stitched scene. Obviously it works better if the motion blur is on trees and water that is in the background of a scene.
My understanding is when your DSLR is in landscape and not portrait position (i.e 68x43mm or 88x43mm) when you remove and turn the back and Fotodiox upside down, the DSLR body itsself is upside too on the back. Or do you loosen the nut and rotate the DSLR 180 degrees?
You can do it either way, but if you rotate the camera when the plate has it mounted upside down, just make sure to rotate those images in post so they're all oriented the same way for stitching.
When you mount a digital camera on the back we recommend setting that camera to full manual mode. Aperture will read as 0 since to the camera isn't communicating with the 4x5 camera. We recommend setting an aperture on the 4x5 lens, choosing an ISO on the digital camera, and then using the light meter in your digital camera to find a correct shutter speed.
Sinar cameras don't include a graflok back, so initially no, our stitch adapter won't work on one. But they do make a conversion kit to add a graflok back to a Sinar camera. Here's a video about a mod that you might find helpful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-S5npDi2AyTA.html
the idea is really very nice, but the BIG limit of this product is that it is not possible to focus infinitely with wide angle lenses. The 90mm lens is the most popular and versatile 4x5 wide angle lens!
Yes, you can use an APS-C camera, but the guidelines on the adapter are for full frame cameras only, so you'll have to experiment and add your own tape markings to know where you need to stop to take each picture, because if you follow the full frame guides you won't get enough overlap in each image to stitch them together.
Do you offer any guides to aid in composing on the ground glass, so you know what you'll have in the final capture? Also, do you have anything like this for 8x10?
We don't offer a guide like that, but it's a good idea! One thing you might try is photographing the ground glass with the landscape on it, then shooting the landscape with our adapter and comparing the two images to see what the crop is. Then you could always mask out the crop on your ground glass with some tape. We don't currently offer an 8x10 version but it sounds interesting.
@@FotodioxInc Thank you for the reply. Good idea on the composition aide. 8x10 would be interesting! I recently purchased one of the Intrepid 8x10 cameras and would be very intrigued to use this technique with it.
@@ikkigraphy6788 Unfortunately, that doesn't look like a graflok back. This is what it should look like: drive.google.com/file/d/1mBcbyAOWpxpM6BWMlvw0kFxVnSpL-IqV/view?usp=sharing
Yes the adapter works with an Ebony SV45 camera. To remove the ground glass, press on the titanium bars and slide to the right. The major problem with the adapter is that it moves the sensor plane more than a centimeter back from the original film plane, so the widest lens that you can focus is 110mm. A recessed lens board may help move the lens further back.
@@TechnicallyMac Inability to focus at infinity with, I would guess, any focal length shorter than 100 or 120mm for example... I can't tell the exact figures, you should ask them, not me, but given the design, it seems impossible that you could focus at infinity with wide angle lenses, even with a mirrorless camera which has a shorter flange distance to the sensor... They just "forgot" to mention that.
@@amkaplan mhhh... true. I wonder if they updated that because I didn't see it before. That confirms what I said above though. There are other ways to build such a system. I am currently building a prototype for a Sinar F2 camera with a Sony A7iii mounted on the rear standard with an adapter that I made and special bellows that hook up directly onto the Sony lens mount. This allows for much shorter distance between the lens and the sensor. I don't have anything wider than a 75mm Nikkor SW and I can focus it to infinity without any issue. I am sure I can go much wider than that... I haven't measured the minimal distance yet but probably I can go as short as 3 cm, maybe less, which would allow for focusing at infinity with a 35mm lens! But this needs more testing ;)
The only way you could do this in one shot would be with either a massive focal reducing optic to make the 4x5 image fit on a full frame sensor, or a 4x5 sized digital sensor.
These are actually adapter for using with full 4x5 cameras. If you're interested in just shooting stitch shift photos with medium format lenses, I'd recommend our RhinoCam line, which supports various medium format lens mounts: fotodioxpro.com/search?type=product&q=RhinoCam
Way to much work just to get a digital image this way! I would rather just shoot using emulsion film, process in my darkroom, and have my best work professional scanned from a bureau! And not have to take 4-6 six images of the same dam thing! A waste of time, and money in my humble opinion!
We love film shooters here at Fotodiox and we respect your opinion! This adapter is not made to replace the fine art of large format film photography, it's just a digital option for people who would like to use large format cameras in different ways.
So it is "way too much to take 6 photos by moving a plate/adapter" but not to buy, carry, place, develop and scan the film (along with buying and managing the development chemicals) How do you count 'work'? in calories, electricity, dollars, space used, waste footprint? Your method is worse on all those fronts...
@@wolfvonderr4487 A great response! Didn't even think of it in those terms. As alluded to earlier, it's just nice to be able to use my beautiful 4x5 cameras in the current hi tech environment.
An old topic, certainly, but the OP's question is still valid - it's a lot of work when you could stick with pure analog. Personally, I'm going to give this a whirl and I'll tell you why: I don't have a money tree in my backyard or a rich uncle funding my hobbies. In 2023 dollars U.S.D., here's some current cost estimates: Kodak Portra ISO 400 4x5 (B&H Photo, 10 sheet pack) = $80 Development (at The DarkRoom, $6 per sheet) = $60 Basic Scanning (at the DarkRoom, 4381x5477 resolution, $20 per sheet) = $200 Drum Scanning (e.g., Alex Burke, 4K scans, 1.7GB file size) = $60 _per sheet_ Film, development, and basic scanning for _10 shots_ is well in excess of $300 U.S.D. If there are two or three images that you want drum scanned, add another $100 to $200. With a digital camera on a productive day, I'll shoot a _couple hundred_ images, which I can quickly sort through, rate, tag, and cull in LR or Bridge. I started in film, so I'm very aware of the benefits. Still, at the end of the day, I'm hoping this will let me re-use some old large format equipment. And I honestly don't mind stitching a few images together in PS to make this work. It's a heck of a lot easier and faster than using a flatbed scanner or similar rig and the money savings will help save my marriage ;-). Whatever you choose to do, enjoy! Cheers, mates, J
