+ Arther Casillas - Fluoride or Halide? Rosin fluxes are categorized by grades of activity: L for low, M for moderate, and H for high. There are also other abbreviations for different rosin flux grades:[6][8] R (Rosin) - pure rosin, no activators, low activity, mildest WW (Water-White) - purest rosin grade, no activators, low activity, sometimes synonymous with R RMA (Rosin Mildly Activated) - contains mild activators, typically no halides RA (Rosin Activated) - rosin with strong activators, high activity, contains halides OA (Organic Acid) - rosin activated with organic acids, high activity, highly corrosive, aqueous cleaning SA (Synthetically Activated) - rosin with strong synthetic activators, high activity; formulated to be easily soluble in organic solvents (chlorofluorocarbons, alcohols) to facilitate cleaning WS (Water-Soluble) - usually based on inorganic or organic halides; highly corrosive residues SRA (Superactivated rosin) - rosin with very strong activators, very high activity IA (Inorganic Acid) - rosin activated with inorganic acids (usually hydrochloric acid or phosphoric acid), highest activities, highly corrosive R, WW, and RMA grades are used for joints that can not be easily cleaned or where there is too high corrosion risk. More active grades require thorough cleaning of the residues. Improper cleaning can actually aggravate the corrosion by releasing trapped activators from the flux residues. There are several possible activator groups for rosins: halide activators (organic halide salts, e.g. dimethylammonium chloride and diethylammonium chloride) organic acids (monocarboxylic, e.g. formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, and dicarboxylic, e.g. oxalic acid, malonic acid, sebacic acid). I have always been very pleased with RMA. Make sure you remove all residue with IPA or a good flux remover.
I recently purchased MG Chemical Rosin Flux Pen NUM.CAT 835-P is this a good choice? I like the attention to detail in your soldering and want to emulate that quality.
+Tony Bester - Very good observation. I use a trick. I use about a foot of cheap masking tape. I secure the end of the wire, apply tension and then tape the other end to the microscope or magnifier. You can remove all slack this way and have total control over the wire.
Tony - I have 3 more coming out within the next week or two. I am doing a longer one on solder bridge removal techniques that will be highly valuable to any operator. By the way, you are more than welcome.
No - just no! When soldering, we need to make a secure mechanical connection before we solder - if at all possible. In this example it's not just possible - it's easy. So, with needle nose pliers we squeeze the lower j-hook closed, then squeeze the upper j-hook closed, and then solder. We are left with a tight mechanical connection and a good electrical connection. Solder has very little mechanical strength - the mechanical strength goes into the design before the solder is applied..... In electronics where nothing is ever going to move again - you can get away with the practice in this video, but it's poor practice. It this were two leads of a wire antenna outdoors, the connection would be broken before sundown if not secured mechanically first.
