Solder on top is unnecessary. Personally, I would clean one side of each and flux that side. Place the clean sides tightly together then clamp the edges. I would apply the iron on an overlap piece getting the copper hot then feed in solder just like on a pipe letting it follow the heat and pull into the joint with capillary action. You could confirm it is good looking at the other side. If you see solder on the other side then it pulled all the way into the joint. Either way it would be very strong and not a waste of solder
Its all about heat, im currently building a heatsink for my 7800GS agp graphics card, i use a pencil torch for this, both sides of the 2mm copper sheets are tinned just waiting for them to cool down, then apply flux to bond the 2 surfaces again using the mini blow torch, the surfaces have to be mega hot for it to work, oh and wear a mask if youre working with leaded solder and glasses.
Thanks for the great demo! I'm assuming you applied flux onto the tinned copper sections prior to final soldering? Can I buy a flat tip for my soldering iron or do i need a whole new iron? If I have a copper pan for cooking, where the previous tin coating has worn off, is it possible to recoat it with tin this way? I wonder how you recoat a pan with tin easily? Common problem. With regard to your soldering, there is a visible difference in metals. If I want to make jewelry, how would i hide that silvery tin coating and keep it all copper?
As I understand it that's a lot of solder for tinning, don't need much as glops will hold the copper about though can certainly remelt so not too big of an issue.
soldering copper together with a lead/tin base solder or non lead/tin based solder would be good only if the copper sheet is kept at a constant temperature and is not subject to expansion and contraction, the higher the tin content the more likely the joint would crack. As you know judging by your hot potato hand action, copper is a great conductor of heat.
So... Super sorry to bother with really stupid questions, but, would it possible to copper plate that solder after it was done? I'm thinking about using copper to make a "lip" around a drinking horn but i would have to solder the "seam" and saw you mentioning lead and tin (big "no no" to drinking utensils). Would there be some kind of "food safe" solder or a way of covering this seam with a thin layer of copper? I saw a video of a guy doing silver plating with some electrodes and what looked like cotton balls soaked in silver nitrate. Could it be done with maybe copper sulfate or something like that? Once again, sorry for the myriad of stupid stuff i probably just spewed, but you comment is recent and you seem to know about this stuff.
@@Djanck000 I would suggest using a 30% silver solder it will melt at a higher temperature but will copper plate. Using copper sulfate solution will plate it, using ion transfer. I would also suggest hanging the copper to be plated in the solution rather than using cotton wool, you'll get a more even result. A stupid question would receive a stupid answer, your questions are not stupid.
Id just welt and hammer it. If necessary, use the rothy to run a bead down one edge, top and bottom of the welt. Easy, no solder clean up, no electric iron needed. Maybe a bit of annealing beforehand.
Is it air tight? Cause I'm planning to make a customized phone case. I will try to make my own vapor chamber a size of a phone 😁 Yes I am crazy to even think about that lil project 😂 I already have phone cooler but it can't reach the part where the chipset are located because the of camera , I just wanna increase the surface area
