How to Solder Hot Wheels ZAMAC Metal and Repair a Vintage Redline Hood. 

A little preheat of a body really helps, even just hitting it with a hair dryer on full for 20-30 seconds before applying flux and Solder with help it flow. I've worked assembling PCB for the last 5 years and preheating a large copper area before trying to add of remove a component is essential. I could see the cool temp of the that Ford connect was sucking the heat right out of the Solder.

Brilliant. As usual you've taken this hobby to a whole new level. Well done.

Very easy to follow and down to business way of talking, I'd listen to you forever.

We've come along way, remember when it seemed impossible.

The secret to a good solder joint in these rolling heat sinks is an 80W soldering iron. With a 20W iron I can't reliably solder anything without burning it.

Try heating the metal instead of the solder. When the metal gets hot enough to melt solder, apply it to the joint allowing capillary action and adhesion to fill the joint. Keep heat on the joint if needed. Repetition will help show what works best for you. I enjoy your restorations, good stuff. Thanks for posting.

It's a good trick to use sandpaper over the area you want to solder first, something like 180 to 220 (also it can help to cut a grill pattern with a razor). And the tempt of the car should be high already to help the adhesion, so it's better to first warm it up, then apply the flux, and then go with the solder and tin (here you can clearly see how since you applied the cold paper tissue, the tin immediately got hard and you needed more heat to work it out).

Awesomeness.....imagine the extra detail that you could add to your mad max series....

I truly enjoy your channel. I'm trying to incorporate soldering into my customs and I just saw how you did the solder. Brilliant. Thank you for the details of your build-outs.

So cool you got the process flushed out, the potential is endless. I can't wait to see what you have in store. Hope you're feeling better 👍

Oh my gosh, im so glad youre doing this! I was literally just looking into this a few days ago and this is a MAJOR help to me! Thanks so much for sharing this!

I've learned that tip size is very important when soldering smaller and bigger parts. I was soldering thin wires for my 3D-printer and the small tip worked fine but then I had to solder on some thick gauge high-amp wire onto an aluminium plate that had some copper-clad terminals (the heatbed). This didn't work. No matter how long I would hold the soldering iron onto it. Now I borrowed a soldering iron from a friend that had a tip that was about 8mm wide and the terminals were soldered in 5 seconds. Also, the type of solder really makes an enormous difference in attachtment. I always hated my solder, and then I switched over to a different type with a different core and it always worked. My solder even worked better than the factory-used solders because when I would go over soldering joints from household appliances, by solder would always stick better. So I would end up desoldering the solder and applying my own whereever I had to fix something. You can also use this bigger soldering iron together with a so called solder wick (made of copper strands loosely loomed together) to remove solder where needed.

Thanks again for the tutorial and best wishes for the new year!

Very clever. I can't wait to see what you do with your new found technique.

Yesterday, restoration. Today, soldering on copper plate. Tomorrow, the world! Bwah-ha-ha-ha! Top video, Thank You!

Awesome, many thanks and all the best for the new year.

Thank you for making and posting this. I'm not doing cars but 1950s / 60s era Varney brand cast metal model railroad locomotive shells.

Copper plating the whole car seems overkill and rather time-consuming (of course, as the whole hobby is) but you want to rough up the surface pretty good so the solder can stick to it easier and quicker (it doesn't stick to mirror-finish surfaces). Also you can use rosin-core solder to eliminate the need for separate liquid/paste rosin thus freeing up one hand in the process. :) But here's the big trick to soldering anything, whatever you're soldering needs to get hot enough to melt the solder. Meaning you need to melt the solder with the car, not with the iron. Doing it this way makes the metal you're applying solder to much more apt to accept it. And if you scuffed the surface well and have your rosin solder it will etch on much quicker & stronger as well. Initial tinning for everything but the iron is done the same way, using the metal to melt the solder can make some your soldering jobs go twice as fast! And lastly, you won't have any issues with your solder remelting when it's over 1/4" away on any surface/metal composition unless your solder has too low of a melting point (or your iron is set too high). Knowing your solder's melting point and your iron's temp can really help you pull off some clever repairs when you have the right combo.

Another great video, I needed this also. Thanks for the information.

i love your videos i have used some of your techniques on restoring my uncles old car back to new.

Glad you're feeling better, happy new year!

Great video. Appreciate in particular: (1) always supplying name and links of major items/supplies you use [very helpful!], (2) really editing your work - I'm sure there were a lot of stops and starts but your finished videos are wonderful. Happy Holidays and Happy New Year!

That is bloody awesome, I I have not seen anyone solder anything on a diecast car yet, you are the first. I thought everyone watch your videos for info, I have always considered you one of the best.

That is cool. Thanks for showing this. I didn't think it was possible.

Nice work as usual, very helpful 👍

That's a great tip bud!!!! Great advice!!!!

So glad to see someone posting interesting videos like this. The only thing I would suggest would be to heat your substrate more. Only when the two contact points reach the solder melt point will it create a reasonable filet. (a solder filet is a solid joint that forms a convex or concave joint between contacts.) If one contact point reaches temp but the other does not, the result is what is called a “cold” solder joint which is the joint side that scrapes off of the substrate. Wiring the substrate to a heater block will do the trick. The higher you can get the bulk of the substrate to temp, the less heat is required on your tip. A third hand at the point of no return in applying the flux just prior to soldering will also yield a cleaner joint. Thanks for taking the time to post this.

Interesting video! Thank you for the info!

Hey! Congrats, I’ve been waiting for this one for a long time

It looks interesting. Thanks for sharing this.

btw, I really enjoy the videos you share with us

Thank you for the recomendation! Congratulations AND Happy new year! From México City Víctor Ramos

I got a rotary tool for Christmas I can’t wait to use it I’d imagine it works like the tools I use at work

Great explanatory video thank you for sharing.

It's a fascinating process, but when you put the plating solution into that Corningware dish, all I could think of was my mother's horrified reaction. "What are you doing?! Those are my _good dishes!_ " :)

Great video and a lil helpful hint you might use when adding stuff to the car/trucks is to use a double alligator clip mounted base which will give you that extra hand we always need. When I work on smaller electronic components it comes in handy

Very usefull tip! Thank you!

Great technique! Thanks bmHW.👍🏼🤘🏼😎

Useful dude very useful, this can help me one day if I wanna do restorations of classic Hot Wheels and Matchbox Cars.

Nice tutorial, well done!

Just a few quick general soldering tips. Solid metal objects are a tremendous heatsink that steal heat away from the soldering iron and away from the intended spot. To prevent this it is helpful to preheat the object (standard toaster oven is just fine). Nothing too crazy, just roughly to the point where you can still hold it with bare hands. Having a more powerful iron (60+ W) might also help. Also, it always pays divident to pretin wires or other parts you want to attach, rather than chancing it and accidentally oxidizing metal and then having to clean it before you can try again.

A very useful video. Thank you. What's interesting is the pronunciation of the word 'Solder'. The British, Australians, New Zealanders say it as 'SOLE-DER', whilst Americans say 'SODDER'. It's rather odd, and I've never worked out why it should be. 'Sod' in English is an old swear word, short for 'Sodomite', it also means 'Wet Turf'. 'Sodder' does sound rude. 😆😆😆

That's pretty friggin awesome!!!

I’m taking this up as a hobby. Been watching vids and yours are the most informative. That said, I’ve already written off soldering to start. Majority will be for show and I guess glue will work..for now. Also didn’t know people pronounced the L in solder 🤷‍♂️

Elegant solution.

I'm using this exact same method to solder wires on circuits. Use the solder flux to also clean your soldering iron and make it last longer and work better

I hope you know how important your vidios are to all of us!!!! HAPPY HOLLIDAY'S to you and yours bud!!!!!

I think you need iron with more thermal mass. Whole body of a car is heatsink and it shows with cold joints. Or try to preheat car on electric stove/plate and then try to solder. Clickspring has some great videos on soldering bigger metal parts. Don't really know how zamac will react to such treatment but it may be worth a try. And you really should just wet the iron tip, solder on the tip is just for thermal transfer, add more to the joint directly when it's heated, it is hard to do with only two hands and fiddly parts but when I grasped that it made a world of difference. Anyhow, great video, waiting for more. Cheers!

Thanks 4 the tutorial

very interesting. Creative use of a disadvantage, turning it into an ADvantage. I approve :P

🤔 I do like my JB Weld, I’ve been tempted to try this too.👍🏼👍🏼

Thanks for your video demo. I want to learn the techique of copper plating and soldering to die-cast

Great tutorial brother

Informative video. The only thing I have to add is to make sure to have a fume extractor when soldering. Even a simple fan sucking in and blowing away the fumes, preferably outside, is better than nothing.

Very interesting an thanks for the knowledge !!!!!!!!!!!!

kool have a good new year ... †

Nice Idea 👍

Very interesting as I'm half way through a ZAMAC Tournament

More knowledge for my toolbox!!!

Wonderful vid, cheers.

Great Video... Thank you... 😎

I’ve been doing for several years now, you’re doing good don’t get me wrong. All I’d like to say is experiment with using less solder, if done correctly it will still be sturdy but give a cleaner look

A good tool I've found for small precise work (I use it on my knives when I make giards or do engraving) a strong 202 micromotor from treeline tools. I also invested in 1/16" dental burs. I use it very very often and it is very precise especially when compared to a dremel

Great vid

Curious to know if you have experimented with Alumaloy welding rods. It might work on diecast alloys better than tin/lead solder.

I recently started work on a restoration of a more modern hot wheels, which is my first restoration. It took forever as I had to use nail polish remover with acetone as paint thinner

Hey just a suggestion. Since you're soldering on rods to that van. You shouls do a Dale's Dead bug van from King of the Hill👍👍

That last bit of soldering gave me an idea that might be fun. You could make car crash dioramas. Build a tiny guide rail, have it jam into the grille and stick out the rear... Or really impale a car with anything your heart desires.

Marty over at Marty's Matchbox Makeovers has soldered diecast bits together a few times now. Might be worth checking it out.

I mite not ever do anything to do with hot wheels but your video's are entertaining

Question - do you think this could effectively scale up for major 1:18-scale jobs? Case in point, I'm considering a 4-door conversion project that would require attaching a modified roof at the A and C pillars, with an additional B-pillar. I get the feeling that even the copper may not aid in building up the material around the C-pillar.

Was that maybe a.. Madmax build preview there in the end?

It's time for a mad max build off!

I have a feeling the solder isn't sticking most of the time because you're not getting the base metal hot enough quickly enough. It going to take a good quality iron with a high thermal mass to get the base metal hot enough to wet before all the flux is gone. Even moderate irons like the hakko 888 probably won't be powerful enough. Likely that wire stuck because of how long the iron was on it and how much flux core solder was dumped into it. The copper wets easier so less heat is needed.

Well done, thank you! I have a question, to get back to as close as an original body for a paint job, could you not then zinc plate, then polish? Just wondering.

One component you may want to consider is to get a temperature controlled soldering station. You can get an acceptable one from Amazon for less than $100.00. As someone below mentioned knowing the melting point of the solder you are using and then dialing it in on the station makes for a much more robust and; in the case of a restoration, a more eye pleasing joint. You are headed in the right direction with the copper plating. Get a good station and practice on a junker and I think you'll end up with something very satisfying. Good luck!

I've Ben watching your channel for some time now & have seen your experience & skills grow exponentially many times I've wondered if somethings possible and how to do it and you come up with a video you talked about making bent Axel's can't wait to see that video

Very cool!

Awesome , but i also will have to stick with J B Weld. Great video as always . Mike Espo

With everything, practice makes it better. Can out good. Hood works. 👍

Good job

I like the tv antenna like item you soldered to the roof of the van... I just watched Donnie Darko, it kind of reminds me of the rabbits ears... lol

Very good. Thx. Just out of curiosity...what metal the die cast car is made of? Thanks.

Good video !! What if the pin on the hood is missing on one side? Think you could make one ?

I’m new to this - will this copper plating technique work when trying to repair old die cast cap guns? Can you get by with only copper plating the repair area instead of the whole item?

This is awesome! I had reservations about just gluing in the hoods, but this is so much better. I have only one question, What if the hood has lost its little pin? Would you just built it up and then file to size? Or would you solder on a little pin like you glued one in a previous video? I think that your restorations are great! I played with some of these cars back in the '60's, most belonged to other kids as my cars were Tootsie toys. I remember my first Matchbox, a station wagon with a dog looking out the back. Thank you for what you are doing by sharing your passion.

Man, I used to solder shit back in middle school (7-8th grade). We just made some wind ornaments or something using copper wire, copper strips, some colored glass things and heaps of lead to liquify the shapes.

BM , I have a tip for you I do stained glass and if your looking for pre tinned wire it comes in 18ga. And 20ga. If your going to solder on your cars it's great to use just a lil flux and your good to go also you can try blue glass flux it's a water based flux wont leave a residue on your cars

Try different soldering tips. I prefer the chisel tip. The round tips lose heat to fast if you notice. That’s why you get it to stick once you added enough solder to cause a bigger heat transfer. That die cast will suck the heat just like soldering guitar pots and petals. Enjoy your videos hope this helps :)

Great videos! Very professional. I enjoy watching them and learn a lot from them. A few questions: You use a battery charger to electropolish your diecast cars. Which amperage do you use, 6 amp or 2 amp? I see that you use a vibratory tumbler to polish your cars. What media do you use? You've been able to polish the windows back to their original sheen. What polish do you use? You mentioned links to products that you use in the videos. Where are these links and where do you post answers to the questions that we viewers ask? In another vein, you had mentioned that you asked viewers to inform you about products that might be available to solder pot metal cars. Both Muggy weld and Caswell make products that will solder pot metal directly without copper plating first.

My friend you need to invest in a hot air soldering station. This makes it SO much easier to solder diecast. I do it all the time on my mixed media train models.

What were you going make out of that Transit Connect

You may need a larger tip. I have found that when soldering on PCBs that have large ground planes, a larger tip with more heat works wonders. The added amount of copper on the board sucks the heat away from the solder joint as is the case of the car body acting like a heat sink.

Would like to see more custom builds

A really cool video i like it and a question have you ever restored a 1 24 scale car? But as always good video ;-)ps what s next?

So after you repair the hood with solder can you sink plate the car so the engine compartment looks stock again and not copper?

Ok but how are you doing on the low rider suspension

Would it be helpful to also rough up the Zamac surface a bit before plating? And also rub the plates surface down with some steel wool or something so the solder has more tooth to stick to?

I love the concept. Were you able to paint the car and was there a difference in how the color showed based on the copper plating and the hood being untouched?

If you get the chance you might try a resistance soldering unit. Great video.