How to Solder properly || Through-hole (THT) & Surface-mount (SMD) 

Give me THT, the best, smd is for toys.

correct its really for DIYers.

But but but........ its really good when you need to save space !

Throughhole makes it easier to test something - you can just solder it on a perfboard and try it.

Correct

What about through hole?

​@@bhoot1702😐

:O

So just use a jumper? That's crazy! Don't you need giant blobs within 10ths of a millimeter of different circuit? 🤷‍♂️

Good tip

Thanks. I was trying to get my solder to "draw" the lines, and it would only stick to the hols. This worked!

Without getting ...board. haha.. ha. Ha... ;-/

I think its the word Irin lol

Agree, with straight up and down pin, you get a nice solder 'volcano.' Soldering a bent pin, you get a solder 'blob.'

Thanks for the warning, was this close to making that error!

@@EgorKaskader I would not be happy if I saw my workers bend an IC pin like that. All you need to do is bend two opposite side pins only enough to hold the ic in place then solder one pin. Then check that the IC is in correct position and solder the pins you didn't bend. Bending like shown in the video puts too much strain on the pin.

@@ianmontgomery7534 What I found works well enough is touching it ever so slightly with a tiny bit of solder, then checking alignment and if needed, adjusting it before soldering pins properly. But, I'm just a hobbyist, so I can spare the time to carefully align the part before getting any amount of heat involved.

Desoldering bent pins is a nightmare. You can never desolder the last bit holding the lead on the board, and you end up ripping off pads. Speaking from experience.

Yeah, solder isnt the greatest thing for making electrical connections which is why id say just using stranded copperwire with solder paste would be much more efficient

Very helpful, thanks!

You'll be lucky to get solder as fine as 0.2mm (8 mil). About 0.6mm (24 mil) is about as fine as is available. Any finer soldering would be very trying on the eyes and would probably cause eyestrain.

Sujal Yadav htjglkgiygf

Yes I wondered why he did it without the socket in the first place

hMM yEs i wOnder why no socKEt In SMD

IC socket is also subject of poor contact due oxidation (simple pull out and put back in works but it would require to open a case of the device). Beyond oxidation issue the socket has a price and on mass production it could come to million dollars extra cost.

@ huh?

You should never bend a pin more than you have to. Repeated bending stresses the metal and can cause failure. Besides, in a manufacturing setting, you would want proof that you clinched it.

MAN THERE WERE 3 by my house. All gone :( I miss radioshack, it was my favorite place to be as a kid. luckily I have a micro center 15 mins away, and they have a mini radioshack-ish area in the back corner. I miss radioshack :(

the slow boat from china hits too close to home...

You can always use Digikey or Mouser all around the world. here in Australia we have Element 14 (the local version of Newark) and RS Components who are English.

Almost all of the electronics parts on Amazon and eBay are counterfeits. You should buy from Newark or DK or Mouser and stop supporting international organized crime, child exploitation, and slavery.

@@jamesmurphy449 A lot of parts on eBay are simply excess stock that were bought from the proper supply chain. Sure some are recycled parts from boards as you suggest but a lot aren't (ie not almost all). I don't buy many parts off eBay but what I have bought have been OK. I haven't bought components from Amazon but I have bought items like pressure regulators and they have been excellent products.

I just reflow once done trimming everything

That Nasa Cert is nothing special.

It is good ideas but soldering is base work and you need many information in electronic

completely true, its a pain in the ass soldering tiny parts with all those giant capacitors and electronics restricting your movement

Yeah and would REALLY suggest using hot air (or skillet/hot plate type heater) for QFN parts, although not killing things does take some (lots and lots and lots of) practice. Its far too easy to miss align something with a 0.5mm pin pitch but if you get it all up to temp the liquid solder's surface tension will pull the part into the right place if the pads are correct. As for getting it up to temp with hot air, a pcb will dump a lot of heat into any surface its placed on, an air gap will help this a little.

That a good tip.

it also applies to tht

THAT'S A DARN GOOD IDEA!!!

Do you still solder

I put it on my to do list

Clayton Camilleri he has already done etching tutorials..it's a 2 part vid.

Piece of cake :D

check my microscope shots is it any good

Thanks for the advice on the braid, I tried desoldering an 11 pin coil from an old PCB using wick, adding flux and proper solder didn't help the wick absorb the remaining old solder. You can imagine how long that took. I disagree with the 300 degrees you mentioned though. In my experience it is often worthwhile to go to about 320/330 Celcius to increase the flow of the tin and flux. It is often preferable to introduce a little more heat for a shorter time instead of the other way around.

hey man you got a like😁 but seriously thanks for the advice

First of, Lead is toxic, it will make your brain mush and stoopid Always wash your hands and don't eat and solder, and when working with flux, don't breath the flux, or else you'l get asthma over longer periods, not even if it smells nice, get a fan with a well ventilated room or cleaning system and blow the fumes away. In any case, in case anyone comes across my comment and you are looking for good solder, look for things such as: Sn63Pb37 "63%Tin 37%Lead": This alloy is a eutectic mixture, so it will melt a lower temperatures (185 Celcius or 365 Farenheit) than any other tin alloy, is easier to work with, as it melts faster and solidifies all at once, which keeps your boards and tips good for longer (as lower heat at a shorter time is better) and gives you shinier and prettier and stronger joints. Sn62Pb36Ag2 "62%Tin 36%Lead 2%Silver": This is probably the "best" alloy you can find, it is also a eutectic alloy mixture and has a slightly lower melting point than Sn63Pb37 and can make better and stronger joints, but to be fair, the big difference in price (you are gonna pay a *lot* ) and the small difference in result when you do soldering good (bad technique ruins everything), makes it in My opinion not worth it compared to Sn63Pb37 for 'general' use. Sn60Pb40 (60%Tin 40% Lead): The 'standard' solder you are probably gonna find the most, it is a good alloy, it is cheap and you can do jobs with it and will be fine, melting temperature is higher (190-200 Celcius or 374-392 Farenheit) than Sn63Pb37 and is slightly harder to work with since it may needs longer to melt, which may be less good for your board and it solidifies slower, which may give you less shiny and slightly weaker joints, Sn60Pb40 is absolutely not bad, but just get Sn63Pb37, it's better and easier to work with. Sn99.3Cu0.7 (99.3%Tin 0.7%Copper) or Sn96.5Ag3Cu0.5 (96.5%Tin 3%Silver 0.5%Copper) Now something you need to know, in some places like EU, the use of lead is forbidden in production and most local shops and some online probably won't sell solder containing lead. This has to do with environmental reasons and the fact lead is very toxic and destroys your brain (you not OK, reatard? i am wood. stupid) if you it gets in your body (Just *Properly* wash your hands Everytime and don't eat and solder and clean everything the solder and your dirty hands touched). Lead-Free is may be harder for beginners to work with since it's harder to make good joints as you need higher temperatures and it melts slower and solidifies slower, which is worse for board, your tip and the flux fumes will stink worse (just always get a fan or cleaning system to blow away fumes, breathing it in is never good for you and can get you asthma at some point). However Lead-Free solder is not bad, with the right technique, you can make good joints as good as leaded solder, you should use good flux whenever possible, as it removes oxide and makes all solder flow better and cleaner and shinier. Though, you can't mix leaded and lead-free solder, doing so will make bad contacts, if that is the case, just clean the contacts and reapply the solder. Lastly, compared to leaded solder, your joints may get issues like Tin Wiskers over the years. Anyway, for good or the best brands you want to go to, look for Kester, that is arguably the best brand and everyone's first choice when possible. Otherwise Multicore or MG Chemical are also good brands I heard. You can purchase these from big distributers like Digikey, Farnell, Mouser, Amazon, etc. For the easiest to work with solder that gives you awesome joints (granted use it safely when it contains lead, as that stuff is very toxic), look for Kester type 44 or 275. The difference is the flux type used, flux helps remove oxide, which helps bind solder better and gives you much better joints. 275 is no-clean flux, which doesn't Eat/Corrode your board if you leave, doesn't mess up conducting of components, thus doesn't 'need' cleaning, but dirt and dust may stick and make your joints look nasty, it is also much harder to clean, especially after you leave it after it too long 44 is Rosin Core, this gives is easier to clean than 275 and is top notch at removing oxide and helping you achieving shinies, but you must clean all flux leftover with isopropyl or flux remover, as when you leave it, it Will eat/corrode your board and may mess up conducting of contacts. For Lead-Free that is easy to work with and give you good results, look for Sn96.5Ag3Cu0.5, for leaded look for Sn63Pb37. And when soldering, you may need to set your temperatures little higher, as melting temp when hand soldering may differ, but don't set it too high, as you burn the flux and get more bad fumes, more easily damage the board and ruin your tips faster. Hope you find this useful, for more resources, look for Louis Rossman and watch at Great Scotts video's Also look around 'reddit.com/r/soldering/'. And read this for your own safety and health: www.reddit.com/r/soldering/comments/e7tbqr/mods_does_the_sub_need_a_sticky_regarding/ Also 'www.reddit.com/r/coolguides/comments/9h3zs1/how_to_solder/' and 'www.reddit.com/r/IWantToLearn/comments/5l3120/iwtl_how_to_solder/' and 'www.reddit.com/r/IWantToLearn/comments/23ovit/i_want_to_learn_how_to_solder_and_the_best/' and 'www.reddit.com/r/soldering/comments/eqm57m/my_tips_are_going_bad_way_too_fast/' and 'www.reddit.com/r/soldering/comments/cp1j5o/6040_vs_6337_vs_silver_solder_advantages/'

@Sherri Cabinaw I am no expert but I will direct you to search out videos on 'tinning' the tip of the iron.

@@funnyarc You sir, thank you very much for this essay on soldering. I was totaling need all this information reunited like that.

In my (minimal) experience, shaky hands is my biggest problem.

Don't let the shaky hands stop you from learning soldering techniques, I worked with a guy that had hands that moved like a jack hammer and his solder joints looked perfect every time, and his soldering was inspected to IPC class 3 guidelines.@@justinyates1154

You can also just add an appropriate amount for the whole side to one Pin and "drag" it across. If you have a good understanding of how much you need this works well, otherwise you still need the desoldering wire and would be probably faster with the strat in the Video (but I have never done it that way)

It's better to fail and learn than never try! Dont get discouraged, just go trough the process of what you are trying to do in your head a couple of times before going for the kill! And practice, of course. That's what old mobos are for!

Yeah, it was an old Dell tablet which the repair shop had given up on, so I think it was worth the lesson that some components might melt under the hot air station, but it could still have been avoided if I had seen this video beforehand. A micro-USB port was probably also the wrong part to start with considering the amount of pins it has so tightly together, a smd resistor or a full size USB port would probably have been an easier place to star.

Yeah micro usb really isn't the easiest to start on. I actually gave up reattaching a socket a few years ago, I just soldered the wire straight on to the pcb. I only got away with that because the wire was thicker than the gap normally taken by the socket so functioned as a pretty effective strain relief. I actually reused the socket to test phone chargers after I soldered some wires to the pads on the bottom of the socket.

I tried that but by that time I had already melted away some tiny smd capacitors that were located around the charging port.

Anonym I don't have hot air so I was just using a fairly blunt chisel tip on my iron. I didn't have the skills to pull it off :)

now i just have to get 2 soldering irons

Matthew Harrison (matthehat) i always use a piece of tape to hold it in place

Apply flux to leads, solder to iron, poke leads through holes supporting the board with a hand and the lead with a finger on that hand, touch soldered iron to fluxed lead. Alternately, pre-tin the lead and pad, then just bring in the iron once you've stuck it through and maybe come back and apply more solder once the other pins are done.

y-y you cut theleads tho

Hahaha

Strange Parts may have done that video.

That would took a month to make it

I'm currently in the process of making my own phone. Custom PCB and everything.

@@User_1795 Hows it going? :)

Camera-based microscopes are cheap, but a pain to work with. There's always a significant delay so when you need to move something, it's hard to tell when you need to stop moving it until it's too late. And a single-lens microscope has no depth perception, making it hard to position your tools where you want them. Use a camera-based one when you want to examine an item or show it off to others, but use an optical (preferably stereo) if you need to actually work on what you're looking at.

I was hoping for that :-)

The most important thing to realize with soldering is that it's not about smearing the solder into place, but about letting surface tension do the job for you. That's why even a huge solder iron tip can handle much smaller SMD components fine. The surface tension will even center SMD components for you on the pads.

AqwBroders It's to check who's really paying attention :P

bruh

I prefer to call it a QFO... Quad fuck off... I'm not soldering that.

lol, i noticed that too :D

The problem with you ''people'', is that you only see the person's mistake rather than their hard work

My microscope recorded that.

That is the microscope. It can also record video. I am pretty happy with it. Like I said, links are in the video description.

Solder with flux core/fluxfree solder: some solder (duh, word repetition) have tiny channels inside them which contain flux (usually rosin). It helps in cleaning the soldered area and making a solder joint all the better. Flux-free solder doesn't have this; it requires the flux to be applied prior to soldering. (I imagine it may be useful where the PCB/components call for a definite/special type of flux. Practically useless in the DIY universe, but I'd be happy to be proven wrong :) )

For QFN chips though - yeah, they suck. lol I had to solder one the other week which had a thermal pad underneath. I used regular solder, but added a tiny bit too much to the thermal pad on the PCB, so the chip sat slightly above the pads on one corner. I had to redo it, but it was OK after. You can reflow the pads around the edge with the right sized chisel tip though, or a pointy hook tip. (which is the tip of choice for Louis Rossmann. You don't necessarily need quite as much flux as he uses, but hey, it works. lol)

It shouldn't if you use a wave tip as the heat is is over three or four pins at a time and you shouldn't need any wick. It is fairly common practise to drag solder these chips.

Marek Ant forgot to mention that upon closer inspection after i removed the chip i actually ripped the pads as well and ended up messing around the board for 2 hours fixing the damaged trace with tiny jumper wire

If you have a good question, sure.

I CANT UNHEAR THAT NOW WTF

Lol

same lmao

Itsy-bitsy, meaning exactly the same thing. Vicces egybeesés. :)