Yes, I used to do it the opposite way too but I found it difficult to keep the wires flat when the guide turned. It is much easier to keep nice flat loops when you start at the motor end.
The wire gauge can depend on what type of motors you are using due to the current needed. If you use FK type motors then 24AWG will be fine. I would suggest 22AWG or possibly 20AWG for really high current motors. It is a bit of a trade off between current, flexibility and weight.
You should be able to see that I use brass plates in the guide to solder the lead wires to. They stay in the guide when you remove the braids. Take a look in this video… ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CpSj6o3kNu4.html
You'd find this job a LOT easier with a gas radiant (aka Ceramic Honeycomb Soldering Block) and a couple of pieces of bent piano wire to act as spring clips.
Thanks for the suggestion. I am not quite sure how a different soldering block would help? I am also not sure what you mean by using bent pieces of piano wire as spring clips? If you mean that the piano wire will help hold the lead wires in position when soldering, then that might help, but you also need to maintain the twist in the wire to keep it flat when the guide turns.
@@peezebeuponyou3774 60/40 solder is approximately 60% Tin and 40% Lead. A lot of solders these days use lead substitutes which are not as good and make it harder to solder and leave a dull looking solder joint.
Yes you can do that if you were going to solder the lead wires immediately onto the guide clips. I tend to prepare a few guides at a time then store them for use when needed.
