After soldering I always inspect the joint for any sharp edges/protrusions which could eventually poke though the heat shrink. I use side cutters to cut them flat.
Wagos are very good but sometimes you just don't have the space for them. And I'm not sure how they behave in a wet environment. Maybe not the best choice for a car or a motorbike.
I normally just put the bare wires parallel to each other then twist them togethe, bit of electric tape. Then every few months when someone trips on the cable and breaks I do it again. Circle of life.
I had such a connection in my house. Did almost set the junction box on fire... Wago connectors are best for fast connections. Don't do that twist-n-tape thing!
I don't know what materials you use.... Maybe your iron is too weak and cools down when the wire touches it. Put a drop of solder onto your soldering tip and let the wires dip into that. This enables the heat to transfer into the wire. Then add solder to the wire. Is it possible that your wires are not copper? I encountered aluminium wires... those can not be soldered. Some alu wires even have a copper coating which dissolves and leaves bare aluminium.
on single core wire that might have a lot of force put on the joint, we had to form an L type hock on each wire then wrap with binding wire before folding the hock over the wrap then soldering. Only did about six like that as practice pieces. Also used to open the wire strands and twist two set of wire strands together so that we could fit two wires in to a single D connector 25way pin.
There is a very old "how to solder" video on RU-vid, about from the 1940s. They explain that an J-hook is even better than winding the wire around a terminal. At least for solid wires...
@@PlaywithJunk Yep when switches have a blade with a hole, we would use a j hock in even stranded wire, solder the strands together, form the j, place through the hole and then solder the wire to the blade, cover with heatsrink. All wire joints had to have a mechanical fasting as well as solder. The equipment had to survive the environment of fast jet cockpits and avionics bays. making wire connections survive the vibrations took a lot of extra work in the design and layout. Where a wire joined a PCB it went through a tight hole before being soldered in to a hole. the fist hole was to provide strain and vibration relief by trapping the wire insulation so it took the bending forces and not the joint. Happy days
Oh my goodness! Thank you for showing this. I've always had issues with soldering - either the iron tip is not clean / tinned / etc or the wire was not. The only thing I'd like to know is what solder you were using.
This is not intended to make advertisement for a brand, but I user Multicore solder for almost everything. And I also use lead based solder because it's easier to handle than lead-free. Cleanliness is also important because you can't solder oxidised or dirty wires. And the right temperature (350-400 C) And also patience... it takes a while to get all parts on temperature. This is probably the best movie about soldering: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_RXugDd0xik.html They explain everything in great detail.
@@PlaywithJunk Dang. I was looking for flux to soldier some wire and read your comment only to find out I already have Rose Core (multicore) Soldier...good video...now it's my turn to have a go at it..
Pro tip. You dont need a soldering iron. I find that it is much faster ans cleaner to just use a lighter to quickly melt the solder and help it fuse evenly with the wire. This especiallt works well with bigger wires
