Get a smooth glossy finish with duplicolor automotive spray paint. Here's the color name and link to Amazon, although I bought it at my local auto parts store. www.amazon.com...
Hey, thanks, I've watched a lot of your videos, really enjoyed them. I started switching direction of sanding with each grit since this video and it eliminated the visible sanding marks.
Hey Tom, haven't watched all the way through yet (it's bedtime here) but I dipped in - l like that painting stand doo-dad, much better than hanging vertically which encourages drips I think. Okay more tomorrow when I get to watch properly. Cheers mate.
I just noticed that you did a lot of intonating on that guitar. I bet it sounds great too. Even when ya buy a guitar from a music store, most of the time, the bridge saddles are even all the way across. That makes for poor tuning and playing sounds and work for you.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse did you use the Santa fe tan? other comments said you didn't remember, looking it up it looks different than the one in the video im planning on doing the exact same black to yellow so this video is golden, thanks
Seriously man your video is exactly what the guitar world needed. I want to paint my dark blue strat surf green. I couldn’t find it anywhere online but seeing this video makes me want to make the whole project possible. You did such an amazing job explaining it I feel like I understand exactly what I need to do I can’t wait to get started
That's wonderful, I hope you can find the color in Duplicolor perfect match. If not, just make sure its lacquer. Don't freak out if you have runs or a mistake, just let it dry, sand the mistake and start over.
Please check out this video, I feel like it's a better job, plus I started alternating sanding directions with this one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5hDNzra37Zk.html
I haven't used surf green, because I don't think it's available in Duplicolor perfect match, but maybe it can be ordered. Go into your local auto parts store and look at the color charts. If not, you might have to order something from Stew Mac. If it was a cheap guitar, I'd say just use Rustoleum 2x from the hardware store, but let it dry longer.
Oh, you were responding to someone else, sorry. This one is the closet to surf green that I've done, and it was also Duplicolor perfect match ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i8WqscI5u1c.html
First off, amazing work. Definitely referring to this when I do a paint job. Just curious, you did about 5 coats of the color, how much paint did you have left? I know the 8 oz cans are smaller than normal. Also what clear coat did you use? Did you also use duplicolor?
Thank you. I don't think I had much color left over at all. I used Duplicolor perfect match clear coat too. I might use 2 cans of clear next time, just to be sure I have enough surface to sand.
Cool work man. I’ve done a few of these. I found the left over scratches came from the sandpaper not being wet enough or the surface area not wet enough. Or the gap between grits could cause scratches, like 800 to 1500 might be much so use 1200 in between. I use my auto polisher that has 7 speeds (by RPM) to polish the guitar. I actually put it in my bench vice then move the body all around. First with compound, then cutting polish then final polish. Cool color you picked, not a color you’ll see again. The comments section may help others with their project. Love DIY guitar videos.
Yeah, this was the first one I painted successfully. I've done a few since, I change direction with the change of grit now. It seems to help out a lot.
Wow, that came out amazing! Just goes to show that if you take the time to do proper prep AND take pride in your work, even a simple rattle can can yield amazing results! I have painted a couple of motorcycles with a spray can, and you absolutely can get results that rival a professional spray job. Now you mentioned letting the body cure for a few weeks, but you don't say exactly how long you let it sit. I would be curious to know. Finally, did you consider using a spray can from a body shop supply place that has a catalyst in it? The benefits are that it is a 2 stage paint that gets harder than Duplicolor. The hardness has always been a factor in any spray-bomb jobs that O have done. Again, just curious. Thanks, and I subscribed as well!!
Thank you, actually I ended up only waiting for a couple of days to dry. I looked on Duplicolor website and I think they said you only have to wait 24 hours if I remember. I have painted several more and only waited 24 hours to wet sand. Haven't had any issues. I don't think I have catalyst paints in my area, I really like to use paint that is local, just in case I need more, plus I like to keep the budget low. I have my tan telecaster that I painted with Duplicolor hanging in my living room, it's my best work, and you can't tell it was painted, looks really good. Thanks for the sub!
Nice work mate. I like that colour. I've used auto acrylics in the past for guitars and they are OK. I'd recommend trying the modern DIY spray cans that you get at hardware stores. They self prime, plus they can often take an auto clear coat.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Hi. Well here in Australia we get a few brands that are non-alkyd, IME, they stick as strongly to 2-pack as auto primer. And they are hard enough to be wet sanded and buffed, but are still better with a clear coat. FWIW I did some tests with my latest project and made a video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iXBqTQloQDA.html Was planning a mustard yellow colour for my next project!...
Yeah, I'm going to watch your video later. I saw you had Rust-Oleum 2x. I use that for everything but not on guitars. It seems too sticky for a long time. I did use it for a few headstocks, but not entire guitars. I love the colors of 2x also.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse I've not used the 2X on guitars, but check out Brad Angove's channel, he uses it a lot. I used Duramax - a Australian product, very common in big box stores etc. In the video it even bonded well to unsanded glossy 2-pack (although better with a scuffed surface). I just tried it on a junk pickguard and it bonded very well to plastic too...
Great job on the shine. Did you polish it by hand? I'm worried about one spot on my guitar wearing through, but I have the paint perfect and don't want to add any additional layers.
Thank you. Yes, sand paper is fine, like 600 grit. If you're going lacquer over lacquer, it really doesn't need to be scuffed, just really clean, to get rid of wax,etc. Here's a better video that has more details ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.html
I'm working on my first project guitar. Excellent video! It's nice to see how well it can turn out when you do things right. I have a yamaha strat. It's black, so I am planning on painting it. Haven't decided on the color yet
I have a couple other guitar painting videos on my channel you can check out. I started changing direction of wet sanding with each grit change and it really helped.
Thanks, you just put enough clear on top to wet sand flat. Here's a better video, same paint and color. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.htmlsi=HIBJvBV1fKvsFEvU
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Many thanks. Just finished watching it - interesting view on the 2K clear coat. I was about to order some, along with the respirator mask too, but you’ve got me second-guessing myself now. I’m using a nitro Montana Black range of spray paint and can’t help but think that the 2K will halt/drastically slow the ageing process of the nitro. I love that high-gloss almost polyurethane look but couldn’t find any poly paint in colours I wanted.
It's a very informative video yet again. Honestly, you are a godsend to any first time guitar painter/ amateur. I know that you demonstrated on the video but Could you tell me the processes from start to finish as I get a wee bit confused when to sand or polish...thanks Tom A great job yet again 👍
I only sand after all the paint and clear are finished, but some sand in between coats. Here's a better video of what I do. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.htmlsi=n7gsH1ebdew2zRj8
I usually use Duplicolor perfect match from an auto parts store. Here's a better video that better describes what I do. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.htmlsi=fptaPDjolxxiC2On
How has this finish held up? Everything I’ve read says to strip and sand down to wood grain for re-finishing. I’m a first timer and want to refinish a black strat I have.
Amazing job, the time you put in really shows. What I'm struggling with is the fact that once you had layered the colour which you then said had orange peel (inevitable to a degree i guess?) You didn't seem to rectify that before added the layers of clear coat which you then buffed to get that factory level finish. Did you really just add clear coat without level sanding the colour first? Or did the orange peel disappear at the wet sanding stage??
Yes, I sprayed the clear right over the orange peel, I figured the clear would orange peel anyway. You can sand in between if you want, I just did with a bass I painted. The more layers of clear, the more you can sand and level it out.
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Great job, i know its an extra step, but what do you think about doing a light sanding with 1500 Wet and after 3-4 layers of the base and then doing another 2-3 layers before the poly coating ?
I'm not sure where you live, but I get everything at auto parts stores. I buy small sheets of sandpaper between 800-3000 grit for wet sanding. The primer, paint and clear are all Duplicolor perfect match. I just use any hand polishing compound or buffing compound. T shirts for cleaning and buffing.
I'm going to continue to use it. Do you have any pics of your paint jobs? I especially can't see going from black to yellow without primer, but to each his own.
Thanks so much for this video. I've watched a few tutorials but I've been following your guide for the past couple years and it really works for me. I found I couldn't hand buff the polishing compound to a decent shine but using some pad attachments on my hand drill made all the difference.
Thank you, it is pretty easy. I'm not really a great details person, or really skilled. I'm actually quite clumsy. Wet sanding is the key part, and wasn't that hard. A buffer would have made it easier, hand buffing was the hard part.
great video!!! i have a diy kit with poly sealant on it, do i sand it then prime or just start go straight to base coat since the body is natural in color
Thanks, if it already has the sealant and you're painting it a solid color, yes. Lightly sand and then primer, color, then clear. Just make sure your paint is lacquer.
@@faysalmahmud2232 thank you, for me it was all in using the right paint, taking my time spraying, and careful wet sanding and polishing. Please check out my other painting videos, I learned more since I did this one.
Great, Great work!! I will paint my canary yellow FGN Strat into a Fiesta Red one and you gave me hope, that I can be successful. 😅 Greetings from Germany!
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse I started spraying my guitar with primer today. Wish me luck! :D Getting a fiesta-red wasn't that easy so I went for fire-red. In Europe, colors have numbers and it is RAL3000. I will keep you posted. Especially if I have any questions. ;)
Looks good man! Put on more coats of clear coat than you think you’ll need. It provides “insurance” for when you’re wet sanding and polishing so that you don’t burn through the clear coat. Another tip is use Z-Poxy clear finishing epoxy. It’s a pore filler and will fill in the pores of the wood so that when you apply your primer the wood doesn’t suck up the primer. It also helps fill in any imperfections in the wood. Use a small squeegee as you’re applying the Z-Poxy epoxy to squeegee off the excess epoxy because remember you only want it in the pores of the wood and the small imperfections. After it’s cured sand it down with 320 grit sand paper. Don’t sand it all off, you’re just sanding off the surface and you want to keep the epoxy in the pores of the wood and the imperfections. As your sanding you’ll see bare wood which will be dull, and spots that are shiny which are where the epoxy has filled in the pores and imperfections. You’ll get a much nicer and smoother finish this way. When you’re compounding your clear coat use different grit compounds. Usually a heavier grit compound, followed by a medium grit compound, then finally followed by a fine grit compound to remove any fine scratches and swirl marks. You’ll get a glass like finish doing it that way. You did a great job though man! Looks great!
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse you can really use any epoxy to do your pore filling. I highly recommend doing that though before you apply primer or any type of sealing coat. Guys used to use pore filler from stewmac where you have to mix it with water and it takes forever to dry. The epoxy does the same exact thing but is much more convenient because it will generally cure in an hour and then you can begin sanding and get right to your sealer/primer coat. The water based pore fillers you have to let it sit for like 24 hours, and remember you can really only do one side of the guitar at a time so you’re looking at two whole days of just pore filling with the water based stuff. The epoxy is more like two hours for both sides. If you have a bench vice with plastic jaws you can always put the paint stick bolted to your guitar in the vice. So now your guitar body is floating free. Work the epoxy on one side, then flip the paint stick over in the vice and work the epoxy on the other side of the body cutting your waiting time down to about an hour, hour and a half total and then begin sanding.
How fine of a grit do you think the sanding should be before painting? I have just finished priming, I only sanded to 240 before primer, then saw this video (I used grain filler before priming). Do you reckon I would still be able to get the glossy finish the way I'm going? Or should I sand again before color coat? Cheers, looks awesome by the way!
Hi Ton. I have an off the wall question for you. How should the saddles be positioned so it doesn't bottom out either way. This has been an issue with me for years. Can you help me out here/ Strats? LP models etc. etc. Your response would be more than appreciated!. I ALWAYS run across this problem when I begin the intonation process.
First you should mark 12.5 inches from the center of the 12th fret on the guitar body, then make a line. Then you want to adjust the saddles so they have about a 1/16th of an inch of movement towards the neck. Then line up the saddles.
I measure from the nut to the 12th fret, then use that measurement from my 12th fret to where I put the bridge. I'm mostly trial and error from there though.
Nice work! I got this old Squier Tele also in black, which I want to refinish. So basically I could sand it down all the way to the wood, apply primer, color, and then wet sand it, that is the process?
No, don't sand it down to the wood, it will take off the factory sealer, and it won't look as good. Here's a better video I made, it should answer any questions you might have. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.html
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse Yeah, the problem is that guitar has pieces of paint broken and scrathed down to the wood already, so I kinda have to sand it down altogether. Also, when you say clear coat, is it just a transparent lacquer in the same kind of bottle (in the store it says Rally clear lacquer)? Thanks!
I would still say to sand as little as possible, maybe sand the top and back smooth but not down to bare wood, and then carefully fill with some bondo? If you sand down to the bare wood, then you'll need to grain fill the bare wood before primer. It's going to be a big job.
Those are mini strats, but the one in this video is the same color, and full sized. Not sure about the sound difference, I just like the stability of them. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.html
Thank you. I actually only waited a few days, but sometimes I wet sand the next day, but only when I use Duplicolor perfect match. Here's a better detailed video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.html
@@TomPetersonRefuseReuse thanks. I was hoping you would reply quickly as I am planning on wet sanding my Les Paul project. I used duplicolor clear coat last Tuesday so I was hoping one week would be good. Thanks again.
Just wet sanding and polishing, but here's a better video explaining what I usually do ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.html
hey brother Tom - excellent job - i have a blue-grey strat copy i want to paint either a candy apple or wind red - so i plan to follow your method - thanks dude
Hey thinking about doing this to my guitar! This came out beautifully, but I have a few questions; Would it have been better if you chipped the factory finish off? How many coats of paint would you have done instead? Is it necessary to let the clear coat sit for weeks to "cure"? How did this hold up? Thanks
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.htmlsi=PbKPGEPXphrxEaSu Here's a better video that I made, it should answer most of your questions. I stripped a guitar once, never again. For me it was stupid and a waste of time, since the factory has already professionally sealed the wood grain. I never let clear sit weeks, just a few days. I'm only talking about the paint that I usually use though.
I almost always use Duplicolor perfect match paint and clear. Here's a newer, more detailed video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.html
I’m probably going to do something similar soon as I don’t want to pay an extra $300 for different paint color. I am very curious about the wet sanding which seems counter intuitive. Why did you do this step and do you think skipping it will yield a similar finish? It seems like it will cause the finish to weather more quickly.
When you paint, many times the surface will look like an orange peel texture. You add enough clear on top to wet sand or you could call it flat sand. You are just leveling the surface. Here's a better video to describe what I personally doru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.htmlsi=Fcve32dQvIeHTD9o
I used black Duplicolor and sprayed with the 1X clear. BiG MISTAkE!. The clear coat is too delicate and chips at the slightest of pressure. I'm proceeding with the assembly but I will have to refinish sometime in the future. I will use a 2X poly for clear next time
I usually don't, only if there was massive orange peel or a run. Here's a newer more detailed video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hPBrigiUe0E.html
Thanks so much for all of these guitar painting videos. They have helped me so much! I also love your no fuss practical approach to this work. Thanks Again Tom. You Rock !
Good job. Maybe next time if you nib between coats, especially between primer and colour coats, the orange peel won’t be so deep and you won’t rub through the finish.
Have a soloist that has a wrap on it that’s starting to bubble and I never really liked the finish just love the way the guitar felt I really want to re do it a nice solid color you definitely have me thinking about trying one day This was a great video and you killed it thanks so much 🙏🤘🎸
so you don't need to wet sand the primer or the color? I noticed you had orange peel on the color coat and then you just clear coated over it and then wet sanded and polished only the clear coat.
I just wet sanded the clear, but you can wet sand the primer and color if you want. I just did a bass guitar and sanded the primer and color but didn't see much difference.
That's good to know. Your results were good on your yellow and purple guitar so I see no need to do any different. I have a guitar kit coming in the mail. It's going to be a relic job so it doesn't need to be too perfect. Great videos!
Cool, if its going to be a relic, you might not even need clear. I just did 2 Van Halen type guitars with a light relic. I painted them and then wet sanded the edges to show wear.
Hi, I just sanded a couple body contours onto a cheap T-style guitar I have. It's mahogany. What can I use just to coat the wood quickly? I don't care about looks... just want to get rid of the feeling of the raw bare wood when I play it now. Thanks!
I made some homemade grain filler with some thinned out grain filler, but other than that, I don't have much experience with bare wood. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-99_X4i3PuPM.html
