As a chef we used to starch our tall hats. We washed the hat then soaked in clothing starch. Allowed it to drain well then whilst still damp, layed the hat flat and ironed it tidy. Allowed it to dry overnight then enjoyed the sound of peeling apart the hat for wearing.
For 40 years I wore stiff collars. I used commerical powder starch which is made of cornflower with a litle borax to stop it going brown on ironing. You mixed the starch to twice the thickness advised on the packet. I would wash the collars in the normal way but in the final rinse used dolly blue so as to get a really white collar. I used a slightly damp cotton cloth when ironing rather than grease proof paper. Just before the final strokes of the iron I would rub a clean white candle onto the surface of the collar. The wax would melt and give a sheen to the collar; you could use the iron directly on the collar at this stage to give a final finish. The wax prevented dirt from penetrating the collar and prevented chafing at the neck. I used to be able to obtain a stick of white soft wax for this purpose but a candle will do nearly as well. I would not dry the collar with a collar stud inserted but simply used a wooden clothes peg. I have a collection of collar studs and stud boxes which came in various patent forms. You used to be able to get a semi-stiff cotton collar manufacture by Van Heusen which required less starch and was more comfortable to wear. You could also get detachable cuffs so your shirt would last several days before it needed laundry. If you rubbed a wax candle along the edge of the cuff on ironing you avoided any dark soil mark because it prevented grime from penetrating the fabric. A poblem with stiff collars is that you cannot pull a tie through the collar very easily. I used fairly narrow silk ties and mastered a way of tying a neat knot without drawing the tie through - it takes practice.
@@Nyx773 Thank you. The technology I grew up with involved a little bell that rang when the paper carriage got to the end of the line, That reminded me to pull back the paper carriage lever. I forgot to mention that you could also get celluloid collars. All you had to do with these was wash them in soapy water - no starch involved.
This was interesting to watch as another individual who wears detachable collars daily. I am interested to know if this method really makes the Darcy "washable" collars much stiffer, as I have tried treating them with the same boiled starch bath that I use on traditional ones and it really does not have much affect on them (I think because of the internal gluing). Consequently, I am honestly not a fan of the Darcy washable collars because (a bit paradoxically) as a result of the fact that they aren't nearly as stiff, they flex and bend, and because they flex and bend, they chafe something awful. I find the traditionally starched antique collars *substantially* more comfortable. My ultimate favorite though, bar-none, is celluloid. I buy every celluloid collar I find in my size. They're a gift from heaven.
Yes, unfortunately the fusing means they cannot absorb any starch, which is why simply spray starching the exterior is the only thing that works. Celluloid collars are hard to come by but a real treat! Personally I like starch!
I'm a relatively newly qualified barrister back here in the UK and I've been wondering how to starch my collars from ede & Ravenscroft, so now I know! Thank you!
I wanted to congratulate you on how much you've improved in your videos! Of course, the older videos are in no way bad, I love them, but nontheless I believe it's impressing and worth reassuring. You look less nervous on camera, your audio editing and managing is lovely (background music on point!), and the cuts are noticeably smoother! Very good job :) Also, I'll definitely start starching my collars. I didn't even know it was possible to do so in not starched ones!
Good morning sir , it was a pleasure to watch this video . I have worn this type of collar for just over a year , it is refreshing to see that people like yourself take such a pride in doing so .
Thanks for this guide. I was vaguely aware/familiar with this method, but none of the other guides I could find went into quite as much detail. Very happy to see that the collars can come out fairly stiff with this method. Nothing quite like a crisp, stiff collar!
Another great video sir. I think you just answered all my questions. Congrats on the new digs. Looking fabulous and wonderfully entertaining. Thank you sir. Cheers
A most instructive video , as a novice I am grateful for the advice given here . It is my hope that I can achieve the level of excellence that comes very naturally to yourself .
Excellent stuff! It’s nice to see young men having an interest in quality vintage styles. Darcy Clothing has high quality vintage style clothes. I got a striped shirt and high-waisted, fishtail-back moleskin trousers from them. I came across Darcy while on the look for trousers with button fly. I am going to get some collars for the shirt. I like the style of collar you starched in this video. I’m old enough to remember coming across some collars and studs of my dad’s in a drawer when I was a boy in the early 1960s. I also remember the button fly which were on my grey flannel short school trousers. The good thing about button fly trousers, is that, whereas if your zipper bursts you are suddenly open to the world, but if you lose a button, nobody is any the wiser. I’m glad the washable collars can be spray starched.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! ありがとうございます! I am definitely going to buy you another coffee! I've never cleaned mine because I didn't know how to starch them. I read a period book for housekeepers that instructs how to do it in the 1890's, and I have been so scared. Please don't hate me, but early this year I used hot water on my worst/most damaged original collar to try, and yeah, I now need to fix my mistake...
The third collar you had reminds me of those high end collars you see in cartoons. Like the ones from Danny from Cat's don't dance or Bongo the bear. Thank you for uploading this video and show. ^.^
Thanks so much for this video! I was worried if you’ve ever done this with collars/cuffs that aren’t detachable and attached to the shirt? It seems a bit more complicated and I haven’t been able to find any tutorials on it
I give mine a thorough soak of warm starch over about an hour, then wipe them off and let them dry for a bit before ironing them dry. Gets them stiff enough, but I have yet to achieve the appearance of my antique collars :/ I'd be very interested in a look on the historical method!
Could you do this to Darcy's starched collars? Bc if the starch solution gets washed off, could you just do this process for as long as there is no browning or staining?
4000-5000 yen? I'm interested! I've always wanted to find cheap homewear-I wonder where you got it! It would be kind to know the name (in text, can't really transcript what you said into text) of this interesting homegarment, so that I could make a little bit of research of my own.
Whats the name of the jacket you are wearing in this video? I like it. Looks like a neat alternative to the velvet smoking jackets to lounge around the house in.
In the US you would buy parchment paper from the grocery store to do this. (Don't get the wrong thing and use wax paper, you will make a mess of your iron, your collar, and your ironing board!)
Thank you for recommending Darcy i juts order stuffs with them. Now how to was the Starched Collars or you dont need to? And if i can have them was as dry wash (professionally)?
I have a very narrow neck and I can never find detachable collars (and corresponding shirts) that fit me properly, so I'm intrigued to see all your videos about this subject matter. Very charming and to the point! I would keep an eye on the volume levels when editing in the future (some tracks sounded too loud at times) but other than that I'm excited to see more! :)
Greetings from Brazil sir, I am a teenager who wears Edwardian and 1910s and 1920s clothing. I sew and make my own detachable collars here at home, I would like to know what type of glue they use on washable collars please. Unfortunately, here in Brazil there is no place that sells detachable collars, much less collar studs.
Okay you have must be able to read minds, yesterday I was trying to find an article about starching collars, then when the video started I was wondering how it was traditionally done, finally I was wondering where to get shirts that can take detachable collars cuffs and bib fronts.
Since you live in Japan why don't you try rice starch. I heard Zack Pinsett say that people used that starch since the 18th century, specially for linen. Be careful to not get it too hot because you will cook it and turn brown.
Thank you for your comment! This video is one of two, this is the "Modern way", but if you look on my channel you'll find a video on the traditional way where I show 4 classic techniques the Victorians used!
@@AntiqueMenswear Thank you. I couldn't find that video and will look for it. I wanted to recommend the novel titled "Madame Chrysantheme" by Pierre Loti. Its set in Japan in 1885. I believe Google has a free english translation.
Very good video. I liked it! (im brazilian so dont speack inglesh very well). I have one question. how would you exercise with those clothes? I guess you would have to wear "normal" (modern) chotles for that.
Should this method be used with original collars or no? I have a group of original collars from the teens that are yellow and stained, and I would like to know if this is a safe alternative then boiling them. Great video by the way!
No, this method will not get anything remotely close to the traditional method for a simple cloth collar. The ones he is using in this video are already fused together and pre-stiffened (they're available from Darcy Clothing). He is really just giving them some additional stiffness. Starching collars the traditional way is a whole different kettle of fish, unfortunately.
It won't get them as hard as they are now without many many many layers of spray starch that frankly won't be worth the time. In fact, even if you use the historical method (video to come soon) from your home you'll never get them looking the same as they did back then because we don't have the tools available. Even Barker, who pride themselves on their starching process, can't get the shine that the antique collars had. Either way, if you plan to wear them, anything is better than dirty yellow or brown collars so I recommend trying to starch them yourself.
@@AntiqueMenswear Here in the US we still have something called "gloss laundry starch" which is what I use in starching my collars. It used to be available at my local grocery store, but now I buy it off Amazon. I've heard that it is rice starch, but I can't confirm as the box does not say what type of starch it is. With some elbow grease and physical force it is possible to produce a nice shine. Also, dissolving some borax in the starch soup before you soak the collars boosts the shine a bit too. Regular old corn starch from the baking department I find actually produces somewhat stiffer collars, but it leaves a more ivory finish, whereas the laundry starch is vivid white. Corn starch also seems to be easier to singe.
Greetings from Spain friend. I really like your channel because I belong to the Association of Cinematographic Recreations. I've seen your robe and the print on it is similar to Doc Holliday's vest in the movie Tombstone. Do you know where to find that gray silk vest fabric? Please help me. Can I send you a photo of the fabric? Thank you
@@AntiqueMenswear Hello. Yes, I'm looking for a silk fabric for my new vest and the pattern is similar. Do you know where I can find that silk fabric? I would like to send you some photos of the fabric so that you can help me. How can I send you the photos?
I like plastic collars, but the problem with celluloid historically is its flammability. The problem with celluloid as an antique is its weak and brittle and can rot. I've started making my own plastic collars!
How do you get the collars to have a smooth surface? Whenever I use starch, I am never able to iron them properly (they get yellow spots, a puckered surface and feel like sand paper, making them not wearable at all). Any advice?
