@@NewtonMakes thanks for the info, i just ordered a guide for my chainsaw to make boards out of our foresty back yard, gonna learn a new skill and get amazing wood in the process.
Good video dude! I got into slabbing last year, I like to use the ladder for ever cut I am usually alone and I have a 661 as well. I have had trouble with securing the ladder to the log, what do you do with the lag bolts exactly if you don’t mind explaining?
I carry multiple 1/4" lag bolts from 3-6" long because the log may not be flat. I like to have two bolts in one ladder rung so the ladder doesn't move. And I'll put a few more in a rung in the middle and at the end of the log. Ultimately, I may have six bolts or so holding it down to the log. If need be, I will put wedges or scraps under areas were there are gaps between the ladder and the log.
Do you feel like when you mill the wider logs you need an auxiliary oiler? How many passes do you usually get before having to sharpen the chain? We have the same set up.
I haven't had a need for one, but I opened my oil screw all the way so I go through a lot of oil. A chain is usually good for about 800-1,000 feet. At that point I want to switch it out.
Man that is awesome score brother love some walnut, really looking forward to seeing what you use them for after they dry... i enjoy milling my own logs, great video
Just curious about the chainsaw you are using. Was considering getting a chainsaw mill but the stihl 661 is pretty cost prohibitive. Is such a nice saw required. My $75 16 inch electic saw isn’t going to cut it but is there something less expensive than the Stihl that will still work?
Sure. You can use several types of saws. The brand doesn't matter. The limitations are speed and capacity. If you want to cut a 20" wide tree you need a saw capable of holding a bar longer than that. You can use a less powerful saw but it'll make things slower. Still doable though.
I’m about to start milling up some lumber in the woods stihl 362 and don’t really have anywhere to dry the wood and it will have to stay outside i guess I’ll have to make a makeshift shelter any advice ?
Make sure you use thick sticker boards so air flows between the slabs. Your slabs will likely get to a certain moisture content and then stop. Before you use a slab, bring it into the shop and let it acclimate. In Michigan, a slab will get to about 15% outside. It'll get to 8% in my shop.
I'm in MI and I just picked up an MS 440 with a 36" bar and the same mill. AND I have some large downed walnut trees that I really don't want to turn into firewood!
How’s the 440 going with that length bar? I’m looking to turn a now problem tree into timber once it’s felled. My dealer pointed me to the 462 as a minimum. All our wood in aus is hard, so that might be the reason.
@@milesabove5259 The 440 is a great saw, but doesn't have enough power for a 36" bar. The real issue is the oiler doesn't get oil to the far end of the bar. I've since put a 28" bar on it for when my 18" Echo just won't do. But I may still use the 36" bar occasionally.
@@vskjarvik unfortunately I held off on using it until I found an old ladder for a rail system and only recently used it. The ladder was too wide for my bar so I broke down and used some trailer ramps for some short slabs and couldn’t be happier. I managed to get some great cuts from some walnut.
Been looking into this lately. Loved the video quality. Most of the videos on the subject matter haven’t been modern in their level of production as far as current RU-vid content creator standards go. We’re you using a tipping chain? And if so, what brand?
