Your pads are probably so contaminated that they need to be replaced. You should carefully check your brake calipers to make sure they aren't leaking oil as that's the most common cause of contaminated pads. If it's bad enough, you may have to replace the rotors too...
It's best to avoid touching the rotor surface at all, because even if you're wearing gloves, if you touched anything with the gloves beforehand that can get on the rotors.
Better way to sand the pads is to put sandpaper on something straight, like glass or mirror and move the pads on it with little pressure (with two-three fingers) distributed on the whole surface . This way you dont sand too much in one spot.
7 years tool and die machinist. Peter you are correct, glass is very flat but there is the risk of breaking it in the process. I'd suggest a 2" wide 12" 1/4" thick aluminum plate from your local hardware store for a couple bucks a better way to go. Do not clamp or screw it down as this will put a unwanted bow in it, if it moves on your bench, place a couple strips of the thin double sided tape on one side to keep it in place, then thin spray of tack glue to adhere the sand paper to it. Also, putting pressure in middle of the pad will do a better job of keeping even pressure on the surface of the pad when drawing it across the sandpaper, keeping you from taking more material off one side or end than the other. This same process is used in tool and die shops for "lapping" of high precision parts. When you are done, twist the aluminum off, don't pry as it will put a bow in it, and you and reuse it. I use mine on a rubber mat and don't need the tape now.
@@annagraham6204 if it's glazing like a mirror, maybe a 120 is good, to break the surface better, but in general I would use 180 or 240 to rough it up. For the rotor a 320 or 400 would be an option, since you rough the metal more gently up.
You won't see this most likely, but these videos have provided a wonderful mental boost each week. Not only to work on my own bike, but to get out and ride so I have problems to fix! Thanks for making this channel Syd(and macky!)
As a woodworker and MTB rider, my heart hurt when Syd was sanding the pads. - Lay the paper on the bench, grit side up. Then slide the pad around against the paper (working side toward paper, obviously). Alternatively, Syd could have used a sanding block. All this keeps the new, sanded surface essentially flat, without high and low spots (That will have to be seated in later). The little bit Syd asks about at ~2:50 is a Circlip - a bit unusual shape with the right angle bend, but that's what it is. Overall, a great series of videos. Please keep them coming!
@@sydfixesbikes incorrect re circlip, circlips are similar grooved pin retaining clips www.mcmaster.com/circlips ; these are actually (right-angle) hairpin clips www.mcmaster.com/retaining-pins/hairpin-clips/ the right angle isn't necessary, you can usually find the straight versions in the small parts bins at your local hardware store--just remember to buy 10, as all retaining clips violate the conservation of mass.
@@sydfixesbikes even easier rotor/pad sanding method: apply adhesive-backed sandpaper www.mcmaster.com/8224A34/ to a set of worn brake pads (clean pads first so sandpaper sticks), install pads, ride & apply brakes. in theory you could do similar to sand a set of glazed pads: apply adhesive-backed sandpaper around the braking circumference of an old rotor, install rotor, install wheel, ride & apply brakes--you might have a hard time fitting the rotor + sandpaper between the brake pads however unless the pistons are fully retracted.
Mech engie here: the 'safety little thing that secures the pin' is usually referred as 'cotter pin'. In Italy and Europe each country has a strange name for that little thing (ITA: coppiglia) XD Thanks a lot for the video, my girlfriend's bike was squeaking exactly in the same way (same sound and pitch), while mine never did so over 10 years - so i was a bit confused. Will do the proposed fix asap!
You really should put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pad on it.. to get the most even and flattest sanding. Machinists would call it lapping the surface.
Exactly what I was going to saying. A piece of glass or granite works great put the paper on the glass rub the pads against the payer keeping the press a equal as possible.
When sanding like this fails or the squealing comes back quickly, use drywall sanding screen for the pads so that the contamination actually falls away and isn't re-imbedded. It's as cheap or cheaper than the sandpaper, is just as available and tends to last longer. Additionally, try to sand in any direction except the way you sanded, you don't have to be perpendicular, just not parallel to the rotor's travel as shown. For one, you'll be able to see how much you've sanded, AND more importantly, the grooves will help the bedding process rather than hinder.
From personal experience, keep a dedicated piece of sandpaper in a zip lock in your tool box. It's really easy to contaminate the sandpaper and then you will add to the problem.
Thank you you're a legitimate life saver! My electric scooter pretty much has the same disc brakes as a maintain bike and this helped me so much, my pads and rotors work like as if I just took my scoot out of the box!
Great video just have 2 remarks; if you sand the pads, you're better off putting the sanding paper on a flat surface and running the pads over top of it. Also, being a bike shop i'd double check if its ok to spray brake cleaner into the padless calipers; looks like there's plastic pistons that could be affected by brake cleaner. Usually, gaskets like nitrile rubber o-rings don't like solvents as it turns gummy, and some plastics may crack.
Thank you so much for posting this and your five minute lever bleed video, I can’t tell you how much time and money you have saved me with just those two posts! If there’s one thing that’s going to make a Yorkshire man happy it’s saving him some money 😂 Keep up the good work. Kind regards Stuart (U.K.)
When changing pads, poor some clean water on them and rub the faces together for a minute. The water should go a bit "dirty" as the top coating comes off. Rinse them and you're ready to go.
Which you should do anyway. Clean those mofos with alcohol all the time. If you store your bike in a locker that nobody opens up for a full year, when you take it out again... clean the rotors with alcohol. Because this isn't very robust technology.
@@OjStudios yes people think it’s be a banner year but you can’t have a banner year with no bikes to sell.. us wrenches have been worked to death though!! 🤣
@@francmeister420 I totally understand. Same thing. People dug out all kinds of bikes from their cellars and who knows where. Trying to put those together, fix'em and sell new bikes that are months late or don't come at all.. Sigh.. Then people complain like it's our fault that we have to wait for some effin' special bolt for your "oh so special" bike. I can't even begin to count how many DIY things I've done during the year because of no part deliveries.
I tried all everything you recommended and still had crazy loud squonking. Then I thought of something I knew about from working on cars: I put a thin film of waterproof grease on the back of the pads where they contact the pistons. Noise was gone instantly. Try it!
One trick to stop oils and sweat from fingers; dip them in isopropyl alcohol 70% and dry. It will clean off any natural oils for long enough and it stops your sweat glands from working for about 5-10 minutes or so. I remember learning that from someone who plays on glass harmonica.
I have watched a few of your videos the past few days on topics I thought I understand. But your format is just truly amazing; enjoyable, great chemistry, funny comments from Syd and you. Congratulations on the perfect format. I live in Santa Fe, NM and hope to visit with one maybe one day.
The verb(s) you want instead of burn-in are "seat" or "bed in" or " break in" and others. Burn in means to hard brake new pads that leads to hard spots or glazing.
Need to use Emory cloth for sanding copper for plumbing and you can leave rotors on the wheel , then pinch the rotor in between Emory cloth on both sides
Leave the rotors on, pull the pads from the caliper, and insert folded sandpaper (emery cloth is best) where the pads would go. Spin the wheel and re-surface the rotor that way. You can pull the lever gently to apply more pressure if needed.
You shouldn’t be breathing it in! Rubbing the pads ( which don’t have asbestos, so non carcinogenic) in sandpaper shouldn’t create airborne dust. Just drop some water on the paper first if you are worried...
On old rotors it's worth cleaning out all the holes too when you're already putting in a fair effort. They're more for improving bite than cooling and get gacked up with greasy pad dust mixture. Dremel with small cotton cone tip works well or even a drill bit if they're round. Use isopropyl alcohol to degrease.
Just followed you step by step, and my brakes no longer sound like crunching gravel when I slow down. Thanks, guys. Your material is so valuable and greatly appreciated.
@2:50 Cotter pin, R clip, or wiggly thingy. I usually just call it a retaining clip. That one looks like a modified version of an R clip so both sides are wiggly and it's bent at a 90 to make it easier to remove without tools. Shimano apparently calls it a snap ring or snap retainer. Black surface could be glazing (contamination burned into the pads/rotors) or just filth from dirt. This is the first time I've heard of bedding/breaking-in brakes referred to as 'burning'. I've always thought burning brakes meant you're WAAAAAAAY overheating them while racing to the point that they're literally burning. Kinda like the rotors on my Tacoma after towing a trailer down an 8% grade for a few miles at
im kind of longing for the simplicity of the good old days when squealing rim brakes we're all that was available and stopping was questionable . changing brakes pads was done with a small open end wrench taking only a minute or two . Now it's micro adjustments on the calipers, messy fluids , modulating the levers etc. 😎
1) As you have a can of brake cleaner, there is no reason not to touch the pads or rotor as long as you give then a quick spritz when you are done. 2) As per the owners manual of my 1965 Mercedes, you should use a small circular motion when removing the glaze on the rotor. 3) to preserve flatness of the pads, place the sandpaper, grit side up on a FLAT surface (a piece of "polished plate "glass is ideal} and sand the pads, pad side done, sand only enough to remove the "shininess" about half as much as you did. 4) As you dod not mention sandpaper grit, I recommend about 150 grit, any kind for the pads, and either "emory" or "aluminum oxide" for the rotor.
Can you make your content inclusive and accessible by formatting the auto captioning into closed captioning please? it is very hard to watch and follow with the dreaded auto captioning sadly (I'm Profoundly Deaf)
Thanks for your tips. You basically want to bed them in the same as you would when you change pads on the car. In your 1 minute summary you said non chlorinated brake cleaner. The red can of Braklean is chlorinated. Pro Tip: the red can will kill scorpions and black widows way better than any bug spray.
this is exactly why i use V brake pads and a v brake bike setup its much less maintainance no bleeding brakes or adding fluid no sanding brake pads just literally have to pop in new brake pads and good to go
Our hack here in the Philippines : mix water and dish washing liquid. Then pour it in the rotor and pads while spinning it. It works for a while then the squeek comes back after a few ride. :-)
I am watching this video again. Then questions come up. What grit sand paper are you using. Why are you using a wet dry sandpaer then switch to a general purpose sand paper. Why not use a sanding sponge. i am thinking that a finer grit sandpaper would be a better than a coarse grit. Also why not use the straw that comes that comes with the brake clean gives you more control so you have less over spray. Over all good video0 Tips and helpful hints are great.
My Tips: Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and run the pads over it so you keep the pads flat, it will also remove and ridges that may have formed. Also all my sanding is perpendicular to the rotation direction. I have found it works better than sanding the same direction as the rotor motion.
6:55 if you pull up on your tool you'll only have your arm strength. Try to push the tool downwards so that you can use your whole (upper) body strendth and weight. That way you'll be able to tighten the center lock screw much easier and with much more force (if needed!) Also: If you lay down the piece of sandpaper flat on a surface (your table or so) you can rub the brake pads over it with ease. Use circular movements at first and finish with a back-and-forward-movement. Much more effective and you even could do the job with a tiny piece of sandpaper ;-)
Put the sandpaper on the bench(sand up) and rub the pad across the top of the paper. For the rotors, put an edge of the sandpaper at the edge of the bench and run the rotors edge across the sandpaper and just rotate each as needed. 2 reasons. It's easier on your hand and keeps an even keel across the pad and/or disc instead of creating 2 unflat surfaces. Hope it helps. Thanks y'all for your great videos!
100% didn't know this was a thing and the shop never told me. I got my first mountain bike and went riding without bedding in the pads and have had this issue since without knowing why. Thank you!!!
i did everything on this video perfectly and now they are squawking louder and more often!!! D,: before it was only at the end of a stop now its almost all the time.
@@sydfixesbikes i tried to yes. im in south florida so there arent very many hills but i rode up to the top of a bridge and braked on and off for 3 seconds fairly hard like you say in the video did that twice on one wheel and started squawking loud again. took the pads back out and they are glossed over again and all the sand paper scratches on the rotor were gone too just as it was when i started. i used 40 grit on the rotors with a machine and 180 on the pads flat on the ground and sprayed them all off with brake cleaner before i reinstalled. with all that work and cleanliness i feel like getting new pads and rotors wont even make a difference because doing this essentially makes them "new"
Weird. Worth trying again and do the braking on and off maybe 10-15 times per wheel. You can do it on flat ground so you don't have to climb the bridge a bunch of times, just make sure you never come to a stop and start with lighter braking for the first couple pulls, then slowly increase it.
Brake cleaner is nasty stuff. Rubbing alcohol is safer for you, safer for the paint on your bike and calipers, safer for the piston seals, less likely to leave any kind of residue that will need to be burned off the pads. Nonetheless, when I sand and clean pads I follow it with a mini butane torch to burn off remaining contaminants. Also worth noting that if your pads keep getting contaminated and you are not sure why, check for weeping from the piston seals.
I find it unnecessary to bed in my brakes. I often mess it up and make my brakes squeak (resin pad). I ride pretty much everyday, so as long as I remember not to lock-up my wheels when I switch to new pads, the brakes actually feels pretty nice the more I ride it.
once i thought screw it those safety pins on the brakes are annoying to put back in after every time, so i threw them away. next ride the pin was gone and i was riding with loose brake pads. it works btw, just prone to squeaking and making noise.
