Just finished rough plumbing a 3500 sq ft home using those exact purple and white brackets. Can confirm, they seriously suck to deal with. Glad to see it wasn't all my fault. Wish I'd seen your vid 2 months ago.
Aww man I can only imagine your frustration. I installed two of them and then started trying my own way. I know mint method here isn’t “the best” but I felt like anything other than those brackets was going to save my sanity
Nice idea. The method that's given the best results is. Set a 2 by 6 back in the wall to allow for a 1/2" brass drop ear 90. Use one foot of 1/2" type "L" copper solder to 90 and screw 90 to wood block. Add additional clamp to copper pipe 3" above 90. Now screw in a 6" galv. Pipe with cap. After drywall remove pipe and replace with brass nipple escussion and valve. Bee doing quality plumbing 40 years
Well, as a 25 year veteran plumber I just stub out with copper. It looks great and very sturdy. Or, use a pex drop ear 90 then a brass nipple. If the stop valve goes bad on the pex stub out then there is usually no room to get another stop on to make the repair. Just saying. At least he has put hot high and cold low.
I agree, the copper finish looks good. I was considering transitioning to copper with their 90 stub out copper with a sweated PEX fitting on the end. A little more expensive but would be very sturdy since they also have a flange on the top nail too.
Im a carpenter and thats how I do it pex valves are garbage. When they go bad, you are ripping drywall open to extend the pipe to put a new valve. Thats just lame
I use Pex b with the brass fittings and stainless steel crimp rings, have for over 20 years. I really admire your workmanship and explanation on using these black clamp pieces. I ordered 10 from the local Home Depot as your video played. I have a full bathroom and a laundry to plumbing in the next week so the timing is perfect. ~WilPaul
That’s awesome to hear. Happy you could find the video helpful. I’ve seen a lot of the pex B being available at most stores, but in our area, they use a lot of PEX A. The expansion over the crimp seems to be preferred by a lot of plumbers because the crimp connections have smaller internal diameters at the joints and fittings, and if you have a long run of water with several connections, it can end up reducing your water, flow and water pressure. So I’ve seen some plumbers have to come in and replace the crimp joints to get better water pressure upstairs at shower for example. Not to say anything is wrong with the other, I’ve just heard some plumbers talk about why they prefer one over the other. I never really thought about it until I started looking at the fittings and realized what they were talking about. It makes sense I guess if you have a lot of water that you need to worry about the water flow way down the line.
Thanks for the video. I’ve been watching videos most of the morning and this is the first video I’ve came across for water lines coming out of the wall. We are redoing our bathroom and my bride wants a hanging or shelf style sink( I’m not sure of the proper terminology). This has been a big help and now about the stub outs that is what I think I was looking for, thanks again.
No problem at all. Yeah it might be referred to as a floating sink or wall mounted sink. Or if it has any type of base a pedestal sink. If you stubbing out the wall where it is going to be visible you might want to transition to a copper stub out so it looks better. There’s a lot of ways to accomplish the task. They even make kits to cover the plastic pex pipe to sleeve it in a brushed or shiny finish of your choice
@@FortKnoxCo I have planned out the build for the sink. I'm almost positive I can hide the majority of what would be visible. I want to go with the Sharkbite shutoffs so even its a little visible it shouldn't look too bad. Then comes tearing up the floor for a new floor. its a very small bathroom so should not be difficult. thanks again for the tips.
Nice instructional video. I did my entire house with PexA...Wirsbo back then. Potable wayer and 100percent radiant through 2000sf house and concrete encased basement. LOADS of 90s and some tees...not a single leaker. All the hype of using sweeps instead of fittings for durability and flow doesnt mean a thing if you have good water pressure and flow. Keep the videos coming..I learn a lot from professionals.
I really appreciate that. And I agree, I think PEX A is the way to go. Love how simply and fast it is, but really like you said … it’s very strong and reliable.
I just came back from the store with the same idea and items. Thanks for the video! I hate the other "solutions" on the market, they never hold the pipe in place proper.
Using PEX b with some of the holdrite fasteners I had to clip off the protruding edge to get the nut to engage, worked fine after that, they clip right off with flush trim cutters
For sink stub outs I like drilling the hole with the 5/8” paddle bit so that the pex sits snug on the backer. And for a uniform cold line you had to add 1/2” 90. No bends!!!!
Looks good and will work well. There is absolutely nothing wrong with Pex A stub outs. I have had more trouble replacing old copper that develops pits and holes, especially in 1 1/2” to 2” copper lines.
I agree. I don’t mind PeX as a stub out . I get what people are saying as far looks n stub but I don’t really care. Looks fine to me. 🤷🏼♂️ and I love how easy and efficient PEX A is to work with.
This is outstanding. Thank you for sharing this technique. Ive been struggling with those stupid brackets and plastic clamps and wasted so much time trying to tighten that thread. Definitely, going this route in the future.
Thank you Bryan/Brian, this is a clever & secure method. My plumber has always suggested to use as less joints as possible & I'd recommend you try the bend supports (pvc conduit or metal braces) instead of the 90 deg elbows in your video. Thanks again 🇺🇸 -OH, Spokane
Yes , the less connections or hard bends the best. From the water supply to this joint I have only 4 connections in total. I’ve bent the pipes through the ceiling, down the wall and into the pony wall. Unfortunately to make the turn inside this pony wall I’d be stretching the ability of these pipes in the limited space and angle I had to work with. So I cut my losses, literally, and just went with a hard 90 to make the final turn out. But yes I’d recommend always try to create a bend rather than cut and splice. Luckily the PEX A doesn’t reduce size at connections like PEX B does. With PEX B you really need to be careful how many joints you create.
Dang sorry to hear about that. Is it the old pex that has like a metal sleeve inside it? I’ve seen a different PEX type material before from a home around that time and it was very difficult to work with because nothing in stores seemed to be the right fix. After some research Someone told me there was an old manufacturer of a plastic piping that was being used in home for a while but there was something that happened with leaks and they stopped putting it in home and a lot had to be completely replumbed
@@FortKnoxCo it is the non metallic pex but it is a darker red and blue wasn’t available then, cold was white. It springs multiple pinhole leaks when it fails. They are finer than a spiders web. Real garbage.
You sir are awesome and you SOB I knew you were going to suggest the nice and fancy router to flush out those clips. No way for me, and you too.... I would do it exactly as you did. Looks great, works great, and is better than those kits!
A lot of it can be just what code is requiring or what is available or new in the area. Seems like copper is not going anywhere. Sweating pipes is a skill for sure.
Haha. Yeah it was a little extra precaution added last minute. There will be a small vent plate in the drywall to allow air flow. There’s a proper vent pipe about 9’ away across the kitchen
The use of color coated Pex was interesting. For me, it's a rabbit hole that provides tons of great reading material, as well as food for thought. Again, imo. Best wishes.
I think you did a great job on the execution and this is a great how to video for what it is you’re doing. You couldn’t pay me enough money to do that, I wouldn’t want my name attached to it. You are ready getting away with not having to use copper through the whole house, why are we compound in the cheapness and laziness by doing stub outs like that? There’s really no excuse for this, but you give people an inch of cheapness they want to take a mile! But I have to admit that I’m in the wrong, because whatever is cheap and fastest is the correct way in the US (in North America).
I hear what you’re saying. It’s definitely better to transition to copper on the way out. Believe it or not There are million dollar home builders running PEX but also stubbing everything out of the wall with PEX. It seems to be a standard of practice out here with some builders. I get what you’re saying, I appreciate it.
Yeah, I put it there just as an added measure. The pipe is vented about 4 feet across the room, but I put the Studor vent to the left just because it has airflow and a screen vent around it and sits behind one of the utilities. So it’s not fully enclosed.
that's the proguard stub out kit, it's under 7 bucks. it replaces 2 90 degree fittings, 2 bucks each and 4 rings, 0.25 each, and 2 2 supports, about 0.20 each. that's just over 5 bucks total. plus the 2x4 and most importantly the time. if your having a hard time with those just use a bend support for wood. it's under 2 bucks, no adding fittings and is way faster to install. check out holdrite item 705.
The supply house cautioned me to allow the pex pipe to flex in the wall. Any sort of rigid clamping them down will eventually result in a hole being rubbed into the pex pipe resulting in a leak. So my plan was like others said ... to stub out with copper and connect pex to the back.
Good job of explaining a better, cheaper way. I also wish they would bring a code requirement for homes in dry, hot climates to do away with the brackets that put a curve in the pex to make a 90 degree turn. It seems like a good idea and avoids another fitting but over time this plastic dries out and a crack develops in the outside corner. I live in phoenix and have had to replace these curves with fittings.
That’s a good point, never thought about the dry heat weakening the stressed bends. I know less connections is usually better. But then you have stressed bends where people are trying to make it work at its limits.
@@homecraftsolutions3506 yeah exactly my thought. I wouldn’t want to use heat on these to make it move. Probably advised against somewhere in the manual
Copper pex stub out looks much better and just requires a few screws into a brace. Its also only $7. You have a more durable stubout(metal) and less fittings to fail.
In my opinion the whole point of PeX is to hopefully avoid copper fitting all together. These PeX A fittings have shown to have some of the highest rated pressure tests done before seeing any failure. And there’s no torches,solder,flux,etc. Quick, easy and no flames or copper compression fittings. Where I did transition to copper was the stub outs for the exterior hose bibs. When exposed to the weather and sunlight I’d recommend not having a PEX stub out. lol. Might not last long out here in the Vegas sun.
I wish I could post a pic in the comments, but I always use a brass drop ear( PEX type ) screw it to a wood block, then finish out with a 4” Crome stub out 1/2 MIP thread on each end ,and a quarter turn valve, do any other contractors use that method? A commercial plumber showed me how to do it that way 🤷♂️
Yeah transitioning to the copper 90 out the wall is a really good way to go. It’s very common. I do that with my exterior hose bibs. Don’t want pex sticking out the wall and sitting in the sun all day.
Don't do it. Transition to a drop ear 90 with threads. Put in a threaded nipple, I use stainless myself & cap it. Easy to bleed air/ water off each branch for testing. And the MAIN reason is using threaded angle stops at each sub out. I use 1/4 turn stops. You can replace these stops many times thru the years during the life of the building. This is the absolute best solution for long term maintenance by a homeowner. Side note: the holdrite straps are difficult to slide thru by design, water hammer is a VERY REAL thing. That pipe sliding 1/32nd or 1/128th will be a problem that with all those points in the system, can turn into a serious leak at any one of them. Pipes shouldn't move, except if you put in a planned expansion loop which houses really don't need. Add water hammer arrestors at the lavatories, washer, kitchen sink, any sink. Many old timers in the trades will gladly give advice for free..... nothing better to do. New products are great but principles of engineering & practical field problems remain.
I really appreciate all the great info. I agree. There is a good , better and best way to do things. Always try to go that extra mile, even if it costs you a little bit more, could save you a huge headache and bill later.
The sleeves just help isolate the pex and keep it from rubbing against the wood. They also have tiny tabs on the back that help apply a little pressure and resistance to pushing back. But your could just run through wood if you’d like.
I only stub out in copper too. Does look like crap on finish to use PEX stops. Hold rite makes a way easier bracket/bend support. The bend support makes an easy bend not like the hard 90’s you put in. They cause turbulence and restrict flow. Colored PEX can cause pin holes but that’s another story. Pro tip. If you are stubbing out in PEX put a piece of 3/4 PEX over the stubs before you put plugs on the end so when you set finish you can cut them off and have clean pipe and not a PEX pipe that’s covered in paint,mud etc. We built 4,000 homes on a big project stubbed out in PEX and the brackets with bend supports couldn’t be easier to use. The ones you used suck that’s all. It’s not your fault but the way you did it is incredibly time consuming and uses more unnecessary fittings than you needed to.It would take me less then 30 seconds to stub out the water lines.
I agree with you on all of that. I just wanted to kinda show a way I made it work and thought others may find it interesting. Ive stubbed out a few other areas in this structure with the text to copper and they work great
Good video, thank you. What do you do about the appearance on the finished side and do you need to worry about UV as some say. I see there are some chromes sleeves you can add to shield from UV.
I wouldn’t stub out pex if it’s going to be outside. For my hose bibs where I have it running out the exterior wall I transitioned to copper. But for interior stub outs you don’t need to worry about it. They do have some options that sleeve over the pex and give you a metal finish of your choice. It’s cosmetic but does give you the finished look.
After having problems in doing repairs in my bathroom I would not accept anything less than brass drop ear elbows secured to blocking. Just my two cents.
I was wondering if those plastic anchors that you were putting into the 2 x 4 to hold the pecks pipe, if they were a two piece with a tapered cone that when you screwed them into the 2 x 4 do they clamp down onto the pecks pipe, or are you relying on the 5/8 hole for resistance
I'm in plumbing supply. Most people buy the holdrite brackets and the 701 (purple holder) and use copper stubouts because it's fast and secure and when you add your stops, etc you have hard copper to hold on to. I'm not a fan of this system, no offense.
No offense taken. I was just documenting something I did as a work around and thought others may find it interesting . And to point out the difficulties of some of the brackets out there. They may not all be cracked up to what they say. I agree stubbing out to copper is best. I used the PEX-A copper transitions for my exterior hose bibs. Much nicer.
I guess that would be possible. But the grip on the small tabs on the inside of the plastic clips might not grab as well. May be able to push the pipes back into the wall easier will less resistance. I believe they are angled to allow to push through and give resistance on the reverse
only one minor issue youve got 4 places for leaks compared to using bends. The copper stubs are very popular , but I figure if you trust Pex you dont need copper stubs. perfect stud bays help, no vent pipes a repipe under a cabinet this method might be difficult. but thats a clean way to install , certainy would work the same with a stout bracket and a drop ear suspension clamp (18 cents each) plus the stout bracket
Great info! Thank you!! Yeah I’m sure there’s a several ways to accomplish this. I just wanted to share a method I used after messing around with the expensive brackets.
Yeah, the plastic ones were just fine. Most of the fittings that you’ll find in stores that are plastic are rated. The brass ones are nice, but obviously a lot more expensive.
For this area I would use the pex A 1/4 turn shut offs. Just like any other type of water faucet turn shut off but they make them with the pex fitting on the end. Other wise the also have handle shut off and any other type your used to but with a pex end to connect to all your pex types.
I added it as an additional thing. Wasn’t needed because the vent to the sink is about 6-7’ away across the open kitchen and it’s dedicated to the main drain that runs out. But just in case there were any restraints with the ventilation I added the studor vent. A lot of the times they install it right after the P-trap at that level but it does need to be 4” above the drain line. So you’ll see a small vertical piece to accomplish that. Also it need to be accessible and have air flow.
You can. Depends on how much space you have to work with inside the wall. Usually for the 90 turns you need a 2x6 wall. I used the plastic 90 turn braces for my stub outs for the toilets in the casita and it worked well.
@@tonycoraccio3514 you can still stub out just may need to throw a 90 elbow or even just use one of the 90 turn braces and have it sticking out of your finis wall slightly. It will be very secure but if it’s not visible then it won’t matter if the brace holding it is sticking out a tiny bit.
If you can make all the bends and sharp turn outs to your fixtures then that would be a nice set up. Less cuts and connectors the better. But usually to turn even the flexible PeX pipe in a 2x4 or even 2x6 wall is super tight. But there’s lots of options out there
You could but you’ll either have a tight fit or a loose fit. Kinda hard to make sure the material removed gives you the exact touch on the pipe you want. With the fittings you can kinda guarantee the right grip and not have wood to plastic contact on the PEX.
That’s an option but you might get more play with the pipe. The clips are made exactly to the size of the pipe and have little tables inside that help grip to help with the pipe moving forward and back as well as side to side.
You can use the 90 bend brackets that help hold the PeX, you just need the room in the wall to be able to accommodate to the radius of the bend. Usually they only work inside a 2x6 framed wall and you will have that PEX line come down and towards one edge of the wall so it can safely bend and shoot 90 to the other side. So it takes up a lot more clearance inside the wall. But it can be done
@@daktusdurggery5505 in my opinion the brackets are difficult to work with. You can get it done but they are as innovative of a help as they lead you to believe. They could be designed better and more sturdy. But having a connection behind the wall isn’t such a bad thing if you have to do it. They are plenty of connections that are made within the system. Obviously the less the better. But these PEX connections are very dependable in my experience. So it’s whatever works for you and your budget. There’s many way to accomplish the task.
Both are safe. Even when you install a filtration system or reverse osmosis there’s plenty of plastic tubing and pieces it’s all made out of that your water makes contact with. Copper has its own molecular benefits separately that is a pro when water passes through it.
@@FortKnoxCo Can't see why so many claimed that they are struggling buy bottled water & not drink tap? Thank you for replaying back & the time to post this video. What do you think about electrical tankless water heater vs electrical 50gals water heater? 1. Rheem 50 gal (leaking on bottom) needs to be replaced. So which is cheaper route to install? 2. Can I install & setup without PM on the tankless & reduce my electrical bills? Had no problem & installed the Rheem 50 gal with my daughter. We are both female & yes we have DVM/tools Should this be acceptable: Rheem RTEX-24 24kW 240V Electric Tankless Water Heater?
@@angelisone I think tankless is really nice and overall can save you money on the water heating needs. As far as electric vs gas I’m only familiar with tankless gas. I just installed one myself and it’s very straight forward. I’d imagine the electric would be even easier. Running the gas and making sure that was all correct was the hardest part. Now the new tankless systems Have simpler ventilation and it’s a lot easier to install. Usually it uses schedule 40 pvc now for vent pipes which is way cheaper than the crazy high head metal vent systems. You would just need to co solder where you would vent your system. It’s like basic plumbing and connections. The electrical part just make sure you plug is on a strong enough amp/breaker. I’ve seen a lot of them only need your 120v standard.
It was added really as a precautionary measure. The pipe still has ventilation within the allowed distances but after moving the plumbing and adjusting the kitchen layout we decided to throw that on too. It won’t be covered up by drywall though. There will be access and air flow. It’s seated behind where the dishwasher will eventually go
Question: Why not just drill a 5/8" hole all the way thru and skip the plastic insert? The insert still has play in movement. The whole point of it, was to be a secure anchor for the plastic pipe. That's not been full achieved.... The hole was a snug enough fit, by itself. It the insert doesn't lock it in, then a snug fit in 1 drill bit is sufficient to the alternative, in terms of outcomes
The plastic clips are pretty snug as they are made for the pipe and they have little tabs inside that push against the pipe as you push through and it does give it some resistance. So it’s pretty tight with now play. As far as just putting the pipe through the wood with no clip, for a stub out the inspector may not pass it since the pipe has direct contact with the wood, it’s not very snug, does have some wiggle and the wood can be abrasive, overtime with turning water on and off could wear through the pipe. So usually they want to see some type of isolation of the plastic pipe.
That could work but they may stick out a little Bit. They have them at Home Depot and sometimes Lowe’s. I think I put a link for them in the video description though. Should be able to find them there
@@FortKnoxCo Thanks. I didn't see them at Lowes over the weekend and Home Depot is an hour from me. I'll try the butterfly ones but inlay them with a router. I only need to plumb one sink and a shower.
Not sure my inspectors would approve the wood on PEX without an isolator to protect the PEX from rubbing. I prefer to stub out with copper using premade copper stubout x pex adapter.
Yeah, that’s one of the reasons that I use the clips. It helps protect it from being indirect contact with the wood. I’m not sure if the inspectors would fail just on that, but it definitely doesn’t hurt. I like that the clips are made specifically to the diameter of the pipe and it gives it a little bit of grip as well. All my other pipes pass through have foam spray to help isolate them from any movement throughout the house.
Why not just drill the smaller hole all the way through that 2/x4 and run the stub out without the rubber grip? You drill out material that you go back and fill with the grip that you had to buy. Am I missing something?
The plastic clips are made for the PeX. Have less of a chance of rubbing through the material than creating a tight fit with wood to plastic fitting. The clips also have a small tab on each side on the back that apply pressure to the pex to create some grip. So it’s not just working as a plastic sleeve but also a clip/grip. You could do straight through wood though if you want. You just gotta have a tight fit or come back with foam or something to create a grab inbetween the pex and wood
It grips pretty good. If you push hard it can slide some. But if you use one of the clamps/nail downs to hold you can prevent that. Just depends on how you’re setting it up in your wall. But I agree, transitioning to copper is nicer.
It was just added there as a added measure. There’s a vent across the kitchen for that drain that’s dedicated for it but because the run underground is about 6+ feet we added a stud vent. There will be airflow to the event so it won’t be locked behind the drywall. But just didn’t wanna have any drainage problems with airflow. Everything is oversized anyways so the airflow shouldn’t be a problem either way
What do you mean by extra measure? Where are you doing plumbing at? So you mean to tell me that where this job is located,you could just sweep down from your arm into your 2 inch coming out of the floor, without a vent and it would legal? Is that what you mean by extra measure? So lets delete the “extra measure” for the sake of argument. You could have your 2 inch coming out of floor, no vent, except the one 6 feet down your 2 inch run under the floor ? And since when is 2 inch considered oversized for a kitchen drain? Where are you located?
@@JO-cj2dv this small county no one’s ever heard of. Weird codes. But usually like a 2” unground drain the max a vent can be away is around 5’. For 1-1/5” pipe no more than 42” away. For a 3” pipe the distance is 6’ away. Similar to a shower drain or a bathroom set up where you may run a couple lines from a sink, shower and toilet u ground and at some point near by it hits a wall to vent those lines.
The best I’ve seen on PEX is NO connections inside the wall. Make home runs from a manifold, use the snap on 90 to support and hold the bend. I never understand why plumbers still run Pex like they are installing copper. The sloping 90s reduce turbulence and noise. Home runs mean no connections between the manifold and the fixture. You can isolate a line by turning the valve at the manifold vs Turing off the entire house. PEX installed right is beautiful and extremely reliable. All those connections are what creates the problems.
I agree. Less connections the better. I haven’t messed with manifolds recently, but the ones I’ve seen and had to repair or work on were nightmares. The manifolds in the past weren’t the best and have been headaches, known to leak and when they fail you have to usually replace the whole manifold. And they aren’t cheap and for a while have been hard to get. I don’t know if any of that has changed as of recent years, but isn’t very common now a days here with building new homes. It’d be nice if they came back with new up to date manifolds and products. I gotta do some research 🧐
@@FortKnoxCo Supply House has some I was considering. They are copper , not plastic and you can use real brass 1/4 turn valves in them. I’m planning to add some new lines for outside water spigots. The professional plumber’ that did my house put the existing outdoor spigots as branches off a main domestic water distribution using PEXB. I want to install whole house water filter. His piss poor planning would have all my garden hose water filtered. AND he didn’t put shutoff valves for the MB tub supply. To work on it the new plumber had to turn off and drain the entire house. I installed a ceiling access panel under the tube and shutoffs on the lines. Little things that would make servicing a lot easier. FYI I only hire this stuff out because my body is too old to do that work anymore.
@@coldwarveteran4239 aw man what a headache. But sounds like you got it figured out. Even if your not doing it yourself you have the knowledge to make sure your asking the right questions and seeing what’s being done but the “professionals” so you can catch stuff before it’s a bigger problem or that’s it’s just done way you’d like it. We have a whole home filtration system and love it.
@@coldwarveteran4239 The trick is to spend more money than you did. Pay for a professional design.Review the design and pay for the review time and then sign off on the design.And you'll have exactly some exact plumbing set up that you want and it will cost you far more than you pay for what you have in your house.Now that you are not happy with. Try it that way next time you build a house.
@@bill-8794 the house was already built buy a custom builder. ‘ Professional plumber’ Yes they do cost a little bit more . But then the plumbers complain if pex leaks at one of their joints. And blame it on the manufacturer. My previous house did have a leak that developed at 3 years. The manufacturer paid to fix it BUT commented that if the PEX had been run per guidelines it wouldn’t have happen above a ceiling.
Ja, es wird auf beiden Seiten Paneele oder Trockenbauwände geben. Und sobald die Trockenbauwand installiert ist, werde ich die Eckventile oder Absperrventile installieren. Ich muss jetzt alles offen lassen, damit der Prüfer es sehen kann, bevor ich alles verdecke.
Only issue with this is pex is supposed to be able to expand and contract. I’ve been to many service calls where pex was ran though studs with 5/8 holes and the pex had sprung a leak inside the joist/stud where it kept expanding and contracting and rubbed a hole into then pipe
Aww man that’s no good. So what would you say is a good way to run it through the studs then? Cuz at some point you need to pass it through studs n such.
The remodel vent was just added there as a extra. There will be a vent access in the wall, so it will have airflow. But really it was just a precautionary measure. There is a true vent down the line about 9 feet away, but it’s not directly vertical above this sink, so it should drain just fine and have plenty of ventilation, the remodel vent was placed there
Yeah less fitting is always better. It is nice if you are using a main manifold to be able to do home runs but that’s not very common out in my area. I’ve heard many bad things about the manifolds, or at least the older ones from other companies. They are all plastic and the 1/4 turns seize up easily and damage easily. Causing expensive repairs. Here in Vegas most pex is used in the same fashion as you would copper.
I do not understand, what "valves problems" people are talking about? You don't have to install the valve flat with the wall, you can keep 4-6" of the pipe, and then just cut off the bad valve and instal a new one. Or you can use drop ear and screw in valve.
I agree. I think sometimes people just like to complain. It’s easy to point at something and say you don’t like it. But to accept that there’s many ways to accomplish something and make it work 🤷🏼♂️ I dunno
Understandable, but the reason I tried this out is that I found myself wasting more time and pain trying to install the stub out kits. They are more trouble than they are worth in my opinion. And they aren’t very sturdy sometimes.
Aren't you supposed to have expansion room for the hot line to expand and contract ?, isn't the studor vent prohibited from being buried in the wall ? last but not least many! customers will object to the site of pex versus copper for exposed stub outs
I don’t believe there is anything specific your supposed to do for the hot line. Leaving it loose would be a bigger problem I believe. Haven’t seen anything specific for that, but I believe it’s because they don’t expand or contract that much. The PEX should have an obvious greater tolerance to that sort of thing than the copper pipes. The studor vent won’t be buried in the wall. It has access and ventilation cut out from the drywall behind the dishwasher. But in normal situations yes you are not supposed to have a studor vent covered up, it needs air flow. As far as the pex stub outs, unfortunately it’s become a normal thing out here in Vegas. I see it all the time on these 1M+ houses. I’d say it’s fine inside a cabinet or area it won’t be seen, but maybe transition to copper in places that you will see it.
