For all of you wondering - This is a stand alone video that we decided to put together showing the process of swapping cams into a K-Series. It's not another cam swap or a part of the other series. We didn't find too many DIY K cam swap videos to reference so here's our take.
This potentially has saved me a headache. My new head bolts have stretched and now I’m having to tear it down again to re torque them. This is a huge help. Obviously I have to do a little bit more work but this is awesome. Risky stuff but just might make it easier. Thank you!!! 🙏
lol , & that’s a simple yet great idea that I wish I thought of. It was too obvious that I didn’t think of it 🤯. Sometimes it’s those simple answers right under our nose that’s so genius yet easily missed.
Cool video and I learned a lot...Ever since I got my 05 Acura RSX I’ve been wanting to learn everything...I have a 90 cutlass international and I know that car very well...but now I wanna get back into imports and learn my car inside and out to make my car run at its best
How does the centreline make a difference .. 108 / 112 degrees? Put cams in my k20 dyno says it made more power but had to hear the vtec x over but also doesn't feel like it really made any power
I was curious about this and this should give me enough to go on. Thx guys! Also im not sure if it applies here but isnt there supposed to be hondabond on one of the outer cam caps? I cant remember..
@@klarkqent not all of them are like that I just had to replace an oil pan on a AWD 2003 Honda CRV EX with the k24 engine and the pan definitely had a gasket it had a recessed groove just like the valve cover does.
I agree, nobody is cares how you would of done it different in your mom's garage on your clapped out EK shitbox on the K20 swap an older boy at the park told you about!
So as maintenance do a chain tensioner? Also I thought cam swaps kill dependability in a k20 unless going with tsx cams? I'm just looking for daily driver advice.
Vtec Banger don’t cam it if you plan to daily drive it. Usually gives you a more aggressive. Rougher idle ect. Good cam set on a built motor can add 15-20 whp
I really hope people who are not mechanically inclined doesn't follow this guy to the tee as there are things done incorrectly. When installing a different cam, ALWAYS back off the valve adjusters. If you don't, that's how things get broken. No mention or visual ques of the cams being lubricated before assembly. When adjusting valve lash, make sure the feeler gauge is removed before making adjustments. The proper use of a torque wrench is using slow smooth movements until it clicks, beeps or however it lets you know you've reached the proper torque and stop tightening immediately. He makes it click 4 times and on at least one occasion, keeps pulling on it after it clicked. If you are going to learn how to do something, watch someone who knows what they are doing. Bad habits die hard.
I've done this twice now and both times the tensioner pulls my timing way off when it engages. What's going on? There's obviously a lot more mechanical ability involved here than is shown.
Ive got an A8 and an A4 in my shop, which one is better for this swap? Planning on dropping back into a 04 Accord sedan as a mild sleeper with the TSX intake and fuel upgrade with a tune
We do videos on the truck here and there but nothing on the regular. It's Dave daily driver and there's really not much else that needs to be done on it right now.
11:55 yes Sir, I also like to go a little tighter-because if you locking up the adjusting screw, the valve lash opens up a bit. I've done this job 3 times on my K20 and it luckily behaves the same over and over. Do you guys know anything about a resurface of the adjusting screw? Why am I asking? ->Cuz I had some issues with them on my D16ZC. They tended to flatten up. It took me to read a bunch of valvetrain books and found a line that states: This can probably happen if you're running the engine with an enhanced valve lash. I've done everything by the book, so what's the problem right here?
As he holds the chain keeping the bungy from doing its job... chain dropped and came of the crank spocket🙈 jesus.. this is why you dont talk when your under the hood guys. That guys probly a good mechanic. But distracted minds will alwase slip...
We take it off our money tree! But in reality, check out our sponsors, patreon fans, and your views. Those funds help us build these cars and make these videos. Otherwise, it wouldnt be possible.
No info/tutorials cause alot of people dont do aftermarket cams in the k series. You Should have just done type R cams. Say bye bye to your timing chain tensioner.
Only tip I would add is to pullout the spark plugs makes the engine easier to turn over so you don't have to fight compression. You can turn a K24 over with 1/4 inch drive ratchet with the plugs out.
@@juanolivares5396 I agree it's pretty intuitive but it's one of those things people might miss or fail to think about thereby making their lives harder.
I feel so much more competent great tutorial by the dead weight guy he has a calm approach he is a good teacher explains in detail all the way in a calm manner very professional GO TEAM DEAD weight!
All your guys are a blessing to have in the vid🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼thanks guys for talking your time for making the video on how swap cams out and for giving some grate tips 👌🏼👌🏼👊🏼🙌🏼
I just want to make sure I didn’t miss anything , I’m about to do this 👍 By the way , I’ve seen others break loose or remove the cam gears when it’s in the engine which looks a heck of a lot easier, is there any major reason to remove them this way instead? Out of the vehicle?
@chadwickwicky67 To break the cam bolt loose, you just have to secure the camshaft so you're not replying on the timing chain to hold the breaking force. You can do it while the cam is still bolted down so it's more stable.
Awesome video. Just did the cams on my RSX and this helped a lot. Only thing I could say is that when you are cleaning the timing tensioner cover be careful with the blade because I accidentally dropped in down the timing cover into the oil pan lol. Got it out and it's running perfectly now. Also as far as the bungee cord goes I'd say 90% of the time the chain will skip on the bottom and there's no point in really trying to be careful from it skipping. Just make sure before you remove the tensioner and you set the motor to TDC you look at the crank mark and cam gear marks so if the chain does skip you can just install the cams with the gear marks lined up and all the slack on the tensioner side
6 years and still helping us change cams. Much appreciated. I have a couple of questions hopefully someone can answer. 1) I’ve read people mentioning “preloading” the tensioner, is that necessary? 2) I’ve seen it mentioned that VTC gear needs to be in unlocked position before torquing as well as the opposite. I don’t believe where was mentioned here. Am I overthinking it ?
Thanx for the vid, helped to have this info when installing my cams. Btw is he (Ruiz? I didn’t quite hear his name well) anyway he sounds like he could be from Hawaii and funny people have asked me if I’m from Canada because of “accent” or the way we talk. I guess if he is born and raised Canadian then I see why, we tend to talk similarly 🤙
Literally have been looking everywhere for the torque spec on the cam caps. Sheared off a valve cover stud only to find out it’s part of the valve train, this video cleared a lot up for me!
Can anyone help me. I’m dead sure my timing was on, cam sensors are oem and fully working beforehand. P0341 after a second on first start up. Is there something I’m missing when it comes to setting timing, both cam gears were facing eachother, crank pulley was on its mark. It turned over several times by hand with ease.
I dont see why worrying about the chain skipping a tooth on the bottom if you have a timing diagram, the crank just has to stay at TDC and you count the number of links from mark to mark on the cam shafts., even if the chain falls down the timing cover, a magnet can easily fish it out.
Hi there, based in south Africa, would a k20a4z cam swap into my k24a3 motor be worth looking at ? I have a set with the vtc gears attached, so it's sitting in my garage and just wondering if itl make any power?
I did a2 stage three skunk 2 cams in my a3, when you go from the a3 two lobe to the a2 three lobe you need to get a full three lobe set of rocker arms, i just got type s rocker arm and cam cap assembly hope this helps, you just want to look at lobes and the style of vtec
Will the drop in cam from dragcartel be a up grade on k20a type r motor from dc5 integra.im looking at rrc manifold, drop in cams and 70mm throttlebody but was told I need to degree the cams to get the gains
Could sebody explain to an idiot why it matters if the chain skips on the bottom pulley? Surely as long as the crank and cams are set tdc when it goes back together it makes no difference if the chain skips at the bottom?
I was curios to see how other techs do there cam swaps, i see some key points that raise awareness i would use a paint indicator on chain and sprocket to identify tooth alignment also that. Chain tensioner looks bad why didnt hold tension when you removed it. The VTC actuator needs to be unlocked.
I was searching the comments for this. Yes, i thought the VTC had to be in unlocked position when installing it, then locked and torqued?? I'm about to put my new 50° onto stg 4 DC cams and have getting as much info as poss. Other info I've seen says it must be unlocked 🤔
Roller cams don't need it. Cover in oil at best. The old non roller cams require the assembly lube for the break in process. No break in for roller cams.
I may be overlooking something... but as long as your timing marks line up why do you have to keep tension on the chain?? Feel it would be easier to do without keeping tension on it when removing/reinstalling cams.
Ryan McCurdy there is another marking for the oil pump chain on the bottom of the motor, keeping the tension on the top chain keeps the gear both chains share from moving.
Yup, remove four torx bolts from intake cam sprocket, slowly remove cover, then remove plunger and move mechanism anti-clockwise a bit, then re-assemble. Some say coil spring under plunger will one day get weak causing rattle. After bolting to camshaft simply lock it again with a clockwise twist. Gives me the creeps.
I'm looking at a car with the Honda K (K20Z2) 4 Cylinder, 2.0 L engine and I'm trying to determine whether they are reliable engines. In case you are wondering what vehicles I'm looking at they are: Honda Civic Sport, VTi, VTi-L, or Limited Edition 8th Gen (2005-2011) [Known as Acura CSX] using Honda K (K20Z2) 4 Cylinder, 2.0 L engine or Honda R (R18A) 4 Cylinder, 1.8 L Engine . Automatic Transmission Honda Civic VTi-L or VTi-S 9th Gen (2011-2015) [Acura ILX in the USA] using Honda R (R18Z1) 4 Cylinder, 1.8 L or Honda R (R18Z4) 4 Cylinder, 1.8 L engine. Sports Auto Transmission Honda Accord Euro (8th Gen 2008-2015) [known as the Acura TSX in the USA] using the Honda K (K24Z3 LEV) 4 Cylinder, 2.4 L engine. Automatic Transmission Honda Jazz VTi Second generation (2007-2014) [known as Honda Fit in the USA] using the Honda L (L15A7) 4 Cylinder, 1.5 L engine . Auto Transmission Toyota Camry RZ or Atara R XV50 (2011-2019) using the Toyota AR (2AR-FE) 4 Cylinder, 2.5 Litre engine Sports Automatic Transmission Hyundai Accent Elite, SR, or Sport 4th Gen (RB; 2010-2018) using the Hyundai Gamma (1.6 Gamma GDi [G4FD]) 4 Cylinder, 1.6 Litre engine. Sports Automatic Transmission Mazda 3 SP25 2nd Gen(BL; 2008-2013) using Mazda L (L5 SVT) 4 Cylinder, 2.5 L engine. Sports Automatic Transmission Kia Rio Sport or Si 3rd Gen (UB; 2011-2017) using Hyundai Gamma (G4FABU or the G4FDBU) 4 Cylinder, 1.6 Litre engine. Sports Auto Transmission Kia Cerato S 3rd Gen (2012-2018) [Known as Kia Forte 2nd Gen (YD) in the USA] using Hyundai Nu (G4NB) 4 Cylinder, 1.8 Litre engine. Sports Auto Transmission Hyundai i30 Active (GD; 2011-2017) [Known as Hyundai Elantra GT in the USA] using Hyundai Nu (G4NB) 4 Cylinder, 1.8 Litre engine. Sports Auto Transmission Toyota Corolla Levin SX or Ascent 10th Gen 2007-2013 (E140/E150) [known as Toyota Corolla or Toyota Matrix 2nd Gen in the USA] using Toyota ZR (2ZR-FE) 1.8L engine . Automatic Transmission Hyundai i30 SX First generation (FD; 2007-2012) [known as Hyundai Elantra Touring in the USA] using Hyundai Beta (G4GC) 4 Cylinder, 2.0L engine . Auto Transmission Mazda 3 SP23 First generation (BK; 2003-2009) using Mazda L (L3 SVT) 4 Cylinder, 2.3 Litre engine. Sports Auto Transmission
This is one of the worst ways to swap cams. The chances of the lower chain skipping are extremely high. You don't need to remove the TCT, just pin it. This video is missing steps and is not noobie friendly.
No, that motor does not have the same VTEC system as the A2 so sadly if you are looking for more power you will have to swap over to an A2 motor as the A4 is very limited.
I don't get the purpose of removing the K20 cams. And for what year of motor... Is this meant for the 02-04 K20 motors since the 05/06 are slightly better. And what K24 cams are you using?? Also does this work for a stock motor or is this just for a motor that has some Bolt ons done.
Tried to go to your shopping page but it isn't open yet, need a cam. I have an '03 EP3 with a bad camshaft (galling), which I hear is not uncommon. I wouldn't mind doing an upgrade on the new cam, but I am still using this as a daily to work. Any suggestions on a Cam? Is a new tune required if a go with a stage 2 cam, as the car has to pass inspection? Let know if you can. Thank you.
Reminds me of the b series days ..going to be dropping some cams into a k20 , I’ve not removed the valve cover since I’ve bought it. Thank you for the video!
step by step guide huh? yet you skip literally half of the important parts. Such as the chain tensioner, you did a brief "explanation" of what was going on. Same with the valve lash adjustment, thats probably the most important aspect when messing with the valves. Also like others have said nice assembly lube. Embarrassing...
I have an unrelate question for anyone willing to answer:..what is the advantage of an aluminum oil pan? They weight more than their steel counterparts and crack like and egg shell, not to mention they leak as they age just as much and the threads on the drain plug are made out of butter.
