Thanks a million. I just broke the throttle lever off the side of mine when a tree limb hit it. I really need to make some engine side screens for my Case 450 dozer. Luckily I have a few spare parts lying around but had no idea how to properly get it apart. You, my new friend have saved the day.
They're not too complicated once you've been inside them once or twice. Just make sure not to place the body in a vice...that will break the thin casing. It is recommended to make up a piece of plate and bolt the end flange to it and clamp the plate in the vice instead. haha I didn't do that but it would have been easier. Most parts are available either on ebay or from any diesel parts shop. Good luck!
Groovy and informative indeed, have a 4020 with stuck plungers and the pump is on the shop bench now. Armed with this "top secret" disassembly info I bet I have dad's ole 4020 going again in a few days. Dirt is the mortal enemy of these pumps and their extremely close tolerances. 🤪👍
Hello, thank you for the video; it was very informative. One thing to note is that the pump direction is based when looking at the front face where it goes into the engine backwards looking towards the cab. In all liklihood, you have CW rotation but when looking from the back of the pump (cab side towards the front of the engine), you'll see CCW. I managed to get my Case pump from a Stanadyne website somewhere and was CW (when looking at the engine towards cab pump orientation).
I found the injection bolts can be replaced with a 3/8-24 NF bolt if you're concerned with breaking the banjo bolts when removing the pump body from the case.
Hey, did you know that there were two vent/air bleed wires in the head of that pump? I heard about that today, they are both in the same hole. One of the wires is 1 5/8 inch long and 3/32 in diameter, that is the one you took out near the end of your video. Well it had a sibling wire, it is 5/8 inch long and 1/128 in diameter. I spoke with Badger Diesel out in Missouri and he said that they are a super pain to get out, and the tool for it is useless. I have to say I tried and tried, solvent, sonic, air blasts, tapping it on a wood bench, it was not coming out. Well I found a way to get out relatively easy and free. I used that straw that comes with carb/brake cleaner, that red straw. I just pushed rather firmly, oaky, REAL firmly into the hole hoping it would jam itself into the end of the straw. Well it worked!! It was pushed into the straw about 3/16, nice and firm. So, hopefully someone watching this great video you made can be helped with my small contribution.
WoW ! Michael! I am learning more about this tractor every day. I had no idea there was another vent wire in the SAME hole. WoW. Now someone should find this information. Thank you for this. Do you think I'm about to take the pump apart to look at this...not a chance HAHA but it's good info for the next time. Thanks again. You are a genius!!
WOW Thanks to all of you. Have one apart on the bench. First one for me..I was just to this point and decided to read the comments. GREAT info! We can conquer the world together!
Thanks. The long one is steel because it's rusted really bad. As for the second rod, it will probably stay there, it's not going anyplace. There is a machine cut underneath that area probably for air bleed. This pump was working this way, I might try a drop of sulfuric acid. It's a backup pump but I want it right if possible. Thanks again.
How's she goin'? Ok now here's the thing: this is an intense job and requires a lot of skill to first of all know how to remove the parts without damage and then replacing and reassembling the pump. You have done a great job stripping the pump and identifying all the parts and laying them out to make re-assembly a bit simpler. You are a brave puppy tackling this rebuild. Tight tolerances and many parts and pieces. I wish you luck with the re-assembly, but I'm sure you will get the job done well. Take care!!!
I have already assembled the pump and taken it apart a second time to clean out those small passages in the rotor hub as seen in the final minutes of this video (that part was spliced into this first video even though it happened later). The pump is back in the tractor and delivering fuel. I have a secondary problem with low compression. I haven't run a compression test yet but I think the rings are stuck from sitting so long. I have hours of footage to go through and a couple more videos to edit and post to bring everyone up to that spot but that's where it's at. "There is nothing so constant as change" and I am adapting as I go.
@@EverydayProjects I have a '68. The rings were stuck after it sat 5 years. I put ATF in the cylinders while the injectors were out, and just **tapped** the starter once per day. Kinda makes a mess. But the rings freed up and the compression came back.
@@kaufmath Great to know. I have the tractor sitting right now with the injectors out and about 2 ounces of SEAFOAM sitting on each piston. I had some in last week for two days then turned the engine by hand, then with the starter and finally tried to start it with the injectors in, but it only kicked a bit. I decided to give it a much longer soak. I will add some ATF too now that you mention it. There will be more videos of the 580CK coming soon. Thanks for commenting and offering helpful advice. I look forward to speaking with you again!
I didn't touch that adjustment and after the clean out, the injection pump worked. I had contemplated trying to adjust it but stayed clear of it. It sets the tension to determine the length of piston stroke of the delivery valve and I didn't see much in the manual to help. If you wanted to experiment with the adjustment, you'd have information that many could use. My reasoning was that the tractor worked when it was parked 20 years ago, and the fuel gumming everything up was the no-start problem. If I just got it cleaned out, I believed it would work as before. Thanks for the question. Let us know what you found.
Thank you for doing this and the re-assembly videos. Got 580C with surging problems and I needed to know steps in dismantling & re-assembling pump. One question for you - how is the Flex Ring retained? The video doesn't show it clearly, are there set screws (with Allen heads) or are they rivetted? A new Flex Ring is supplied in Gasket Kit and living in Australia Parts are not readily available. as USA. Cheers again for taking the time to help others. Robert.
I relaced the flex ring with a solid weight retainer. I don't know how to replace the flexible piece that comes in the kit. The part Number for the solid, weight retainer is: 29111 Maybe a diesel shop in Australia will be able to find one for you. Sorry I could not be more helpful. Best of Luck to you.
@@EverydayProjects Thankyou again for your prompt reply and additional information. I have spoken to supplier today who informed me fitting Flex Ring is difficult. You have to use narrow Circlip Pliers to secure ring to retaining rivets. I will pick up parts tomorrow and let you know result in this forum as it might help others. Original Flex Ring has lasted 20yrs to my knowledge and Solid Weight Retainer costs nearly AU$250.00 here so I'll try ring first. Cheers Robert
@@EverydayProjects Got Pump done and now working as it should. Please find below things I have found out that may assist those who want to overhaul their own pump. 1/ The Flex Ring is a bit of a challenge to fit. I found best way for me was to put the lip of the flex hole over one edge of the retaining rivet-hold in position with a small screwdriver. Using an angled seal pick work the rest in like fitting a tyre. 2/ Governor Thrust Washer should be fitted with the outer rim chamfer facing up towards the Governor Thrust Sleeve. 3/ On the 580C, the Hydraulic Head Air vent drilling has 2 rods under the screw head, The drilling port is stepped. The smaller rod - approx 0.635" long and 0.060" thick goes in first. The longer rod - approx 1.630" long and 0.093" thick goes in last. This port allows air trapped in the Transfer Pump to evacuate into the diesel reservoir whilst the rods minimise the fuel rushing out. 4/ The Roller to Roller dimension is different to the 580CK also. It is 1.965"+/- 0.0015" 5/ The Transfer Pump Pressure is also different. A reading of 67-71psi is required. This can be measured with engine running with correct pressure gauge connected to the lower plug in the end plate housing. I have obtained a complete Stanadyne Pump Parts breakdown for the 580C-DBGFCC-207D motor if wanted. Hope this information helps anyone who get stuck. Cheers Robert
@@robertbriggs9458 WOW! Thanks, Robert. This is great information to have. It appears from these extra items you mentioned that I didn't get the lower vent rod out. All I got out was the upper one. Always something new to learn. You might try to place the link in this thread for the parts breakdown if you wish, however, RU-vid has a new policy of deleting unknown links. Still worth a try to help out fellow pump rebuilders. Again, many thanks. I have a good friend from New Zealand and his son works in a coal mine in Australia driving one of those huge trucks. All the best to you mate.
I bought the kit on Amazon. Make sure to look for a kit that is for the correct first letters such as DBG..., etc. the model number starting letters. The model number is on the pump. I bought other parts from a diesel shop in Edmonton, Canada called GCL DIESEL. They have a website with phone numbers. Provide them with your pump model number and they'll help you. Please Subscribe to my channel--it's FREE!
I am about to take my pump apart as well. I am very much mechanically inclined and from what I have seen in many of these videos, it is just replacing the "soft stuff", O-rings and such, then reassembly. I have yet to see anyone take measurements to check the tolerances, if that is needed, I have many tools to do such so that would not be an issue. I really believe that if you record yourself taking it apart, with narration and an occasional photo, this is a real breeze actually. Not my profession but I have built in the neighborhood of 200-300 motors in my 54 years of riding this planet, so if you have some brain and use it for more than holding the ears apart, you can do it. I have watched your video twice now, hoping like heck I do not have the broken bolt issues you have experienced, but if I do, it won't be the first time I have had to remove one. Great video, love the detail you have put into it.
The reassembly video is coming soon. The parts to change are the kit with the soft stuff, as you say, the weight retainer (there is a solid retainer available that I use). It eliminates failures caused by the flex ring deteriorating, and it it's recommended to change the shut of cam (it is the clip you remove to take the throttle shafts apart) and also the delivery valve stop. It comes in the soft kit (I didn't realize this so I now have a spare. I hope your pump rebuild goes well. There is one tricky adjustment for setting the pump-stroke leaf spring and it uses a special stand to blow air into the centre of the rotor between the pistons...but nobody uses it at home and many successful rebuilds have been done without the jig from Stanadyne. More to come-Thanks for watching !
@@EverydayProjects oh yeah, that's right. I got that one piece weight wheel as well. I got all my parts from Badger Diesel for $129.00 I believe, that includes everything you need to do the rebuild. I saw that video where they do the calibration with the air, that looks like it would be easy to make with a few pressure gauges (to match the # of cylinders you have) and som_ air adapters, not to difficult looking. I look forward to seeing the reassembly video you have coming, thanks for contacting me. Take care.
Hello, I broke that bristol allen wrench not to do round pin off😢, welded allen wrench to it and got it out, do you have a part number for it? Please least it if you do, and thank you.
@@EverydayProjects you are the best, and it’s available for sale, thanks 🙏 a million. I wish you long years of healthy and pleasant life , and thank you again.
@@skookumsawmilling7653 hello, yes I did, and gave it a couple tucked welds to reinforce the allen, it was braking as well. But it came out. Take your time.
I sure hope my injector pump never goes out, that looked very intricate and a lot of work. But on the other side, if my pump ever does go out I have a well edited step by step video on how to fix it. :)
I think there's more precision engineering in that one pump than in ten of those tractors. It's probably a relatively simple pump as they go. I don't know. That's one thing I've never been into. I think between the manual and this video I'd have a decent shot at doing it. Any luck with pulling the brake drums?
These injection pumps are a precision item but if handled with care, they can be rebuilt at home. About the tractor stuck...I slackened the brake adjusters and no luck. I then thought to remove the transmission top cover (I had it off last year to inspect the gears). It seems that the forks were inserted incorrectly when I put it back together because with the cover off, I was able to move the tractor forward about 50 feet with a tow. With the cover off, it allowed the gears to move to neutral. I was more careful putting it back on. When I towed it, the open gearcase spit oil all over the inside of the cab but I'm not worried. I'm glad it moved and that I found a potential problem when the engine actually runs.
Hello, new subscriber here as I was sent here by Mike from Grampie's Garage, and will be checking out your channel. Nice to meet another Canadian creator, check my channel out if you like. Cheers.
Greetings Ross! Mike has a lovely place out there in Nova Scotia and he has a close relationship with the land and its creatures, especially all the little squirrels who come by every night and chew on most of his stuff. I always wish Mike well and give a pat to the squirrels (he calls them tree rats ! haha---not a love story). I've subscribed to your channel, Ross and look forward to watching your productions.
@@EverydayProjects yes he does, I think he was looking forward to that $300 you sent him to deal with the tree rats... But I guess the rats go to the mail first! Haha. Cheers and looking forward to more of your videos! Thank you for subscribing.
