Just came from a session and applied your tips and WOW. It made all the difference. Only been surfing for 5 months and this has been a major help. My legs are covered in bruises since I always lean back in fright whenever I catch a steep wave. My wipeouts got so bad I became even more afraid, thus wasting good waves. Today, I watched your video right before paddling out and I have never felt more in control, especially in overhead waves. A surf buddy of mine (surfing for 50 years) commented, "Whatever you're doing, keep doing it. Looked like you knew exactly what you were doing out there." Thank you very much, Kale.
Dude, late drop ins on steep waves are the bane of my existence. I’m at the point of just going full send and constantly wiping out until I get it down. Thanks for the videos brother 🤙🏻
Something that helps me is as I place my hands on the deck to pop up I really press the board down hard. By hard I mean with more force when compared to popping up on a mushy wave. Feel like this really helps with that barrier between breaking the ledge or getting caught in the lip. Cheers
Lucky there mate, the more experienced I get the more I'm beginning to see that 'steep'wqve is relative. There's always a wave with a more intense, quicker, heavier takeoff than you've experiences
I think another 2 importants thing (that you are doing well) but worth to mention are: 1) if one tries to take off at the peak he will most likely airdrop. So not only paddling hard and fast, but also reading the peak is important, and maybe taking the wave behind or in front of the peak, where the waves is not vertical 2) looking down the line and angle the board towards where you are going. This will give you “get up and go”
Thank you for that advice, when you say looking down the line.. do you mean look down the line while paddling straight? Or do I angle my board slightly right if I am looking right? I've always been confused by this. Thank you for your time (: -Monterey Ca
Diego Sevillano Hi Diego, I like to angle the board towards the direction I want to go...I also stick my eyes to the lip of the wave (if I am going right, I look towards the right) keep heads down while paddling and gently lifting head and chest when I feel the push of the wave. That allows me to have more lift when popping up, and also know where I am going as soon as my feet are on the board. If you can practice at home you’ll realize how easier it is to pop up like that. Grab a mat, pretend you are paddling so you keep your eyes up towards where you are going but heads down close to the mat, put you hands close to the chest and lift up the chest and head, and then do the pop-up. I never try to lift with my head down, I am almost in a very quick cobra position before I do the actual pop-up... hope it helps!
A really informative video. Here at our break we have had to learn on fast steep waves and it's a whole different game, so it great to see a video giving essential information for surfers in that situation. It would be cool to see the same type of video but showing what you need to do on a long board (9'.6" upwards). Thanks for the awesome video man 🤙
One of the hardest balances to learn - leaning forward while putting more weight on the back foot. By default, a person wants to lean back which (as pointed out) is no bueno. This is a very helpful video. Well done.
Great lesson. I think of waves like skating half pipes (sometimes.) The steeper the wave/pipe, the more you have to lean forward. The more you have to mentally commit.
Hey Kale! Great lesson. You know what else would be awesome (in my selfish opinion)? A roadmap that outlines a series of progressions for surfers. From catching whitewater and learning to pop up on foamies to going aerial or something of that level. I saw that, in the skateboarding world, Braille Skateboarding developed this concept (it goes something like this: ollie -> 180 frontside -> 180 backside -> kick flip -> etc.). I wonder what would be the equivalent in surfing according to Brock!
ONya Kales! Another awesome lesson. I have surfed for 30 years and you fixed my surfing with your ...where to look when you pop up lesson tips. I was dropping my head omg different life now lloloololol. Love your lessons cheers and keep ripping!! yEwwwwwww!
Thanks Kale, I've been surfing for about 7 months now and struggling with having the confidence to get on the front of the board exactly as you explained. Glad I'm not the only one. Will paddle harder when I'm out next time!
Thanks for the great videos, I have been surfing a year, just started leaning forward enough, to pop up on steeper waves, great feeling and does hurt less than nose diving. Looking forward to more videos :)
This is good but the way I learnt was going out on a foamie and just sending it till I was confident enough to go on a proper board. You just gotta send it
Glad you covered forward leaning, something no one talks about but is so essential. I would add, using one's hands to turn the board before you hop up on it. this is also crucial and a trick that helps a lot.
Idk if I completely agree with your board choice on this one on the principles that rounder tails and more pulled in tails like the twin has that you didn’t take out tend to have more hold in steeper hollow waves the more width in the tail like a swallow makes the planing surface bigger making it hold less in the wave and be more skaty being better for smaller or rounder faced waves also bigger twin sets have a tendency to hold and lock into steep faces making them excellent barrel boards because they can mimick a single fins hold when put on the rail if you hold it hard in a vertical section that’s why guys like torren Martyn who actually won an award for style recently primarily ride twinnies over thrusters. I think from my experience it’s because the way they can hunt the barrel and love being put in steep sections accelerating as it gets more hollow and at the same time they can also excel through the flat by maintaining glide when a centerfin might add too much drag just food for thought cheers
I'm pretty confident when riding 2-3 ft waves but when they're 5-6 ft. I just don't have the confidence. I find myself too far outside, unwilling to put myself in the take off zone for fear of getting caught inside. My duck dive is so/so. I just hate paddling for a wave that I know is gonna break on my back. Maybe I just need more 4 ft waves!
I think theres a scale of fun, the best point of fun is when your out the back feeling safe, this enables us to catch more, without being afraid. I would personally only go up to 6ft and even thats scary, 2-3/4 is ideal.
I used to feel the same until I committed to learning to ride large waves on my backhand. It took about 2-3 year of putting in the hours but now I'm actually more comfortable on bigger waves on my backhand. There is something about being able to quickly pig dog that feels strong and in control. Now its time to work on my forehand again in bigger surf.
Go to Indo. Get to surf 4-6 ft regularly. Pick the easier breaks where there’s an easy paddle out. You’ll find your taking off in clean larger waves (so much easier than dealing with wild 6ft east coast Oz waves). You’ll get used o the size before you know it. Come home and be paddling out in larger surf no problem. If you can afford it go to the Maldives! Friends who went there say the take offs are very user friendly ! But seriously, just head over to Bali each winter for a surf holiday. 🤔😀
Great video this is gonna help me a lot, I'm a fairly inexperienced surfer from northern California and right now everything's overhead to double overhead closeout barrels so it's pretty harsh trying to drop in, not being able to paddle fast enough and getting sent over the falls. Keep up the dope videos 🤙
Steep waves are very dificult to catch... it seems always that i’m going to front edge of the board into the water... The tip of putting The weight on the back foot has changed my life! 🏄♂️✌🏻🤙🏻
Thanks for the great videos! Just recommend that you can put summaries in every video you’ve made. It will be more easier for foreign people to watch and learn.
I learned to surf in Texas. Wind chop that is all sand bar and punchy mush. If you can surf here you can surf anywhere. Once you learn how to get outside.
This was very enlightening. I'm not ready for these type of waves yet, but I have watched many people surf on you tube & have wondered how it works in these circumstances. No one that I've found has covered this topic before. Thanks.
I surfed a lil when I was young but I really got into it this summer watching ur videos I never thought I would ever be able to catch waves as big as the ones in your video but with a lot of practice and wipeouts and tutorials I can surf bigger waves 5-6ft love the videos
Man you really understand surfing hey. Whenever you point out a mistake people make, I understand that I’m doing it. Unfortunately I live in central Qld where the waves are 2ft closeouts 1sec apart , or there is a cyclone coming past and they are 5ft closeouts 1sec apart so a long way from ideal learning conditions and really stunting my progress. I try to take onboard all the advice you give but conditions make it hard to put that advice into practice. The addiction of surfing is directing my life though, and hopefully by the end of this year I will be down the sunny coast with many many days of great conditions to learn this craft and get to an intermediate level. Keep up the great work Kale. These videos are invaluable for people in my geographical circumstance and encourage me to keep on keeping on when I get frustrated with the continually poor conditions and start to lose hope🤙 loved the air camp at 3:23 too mate.
You forgot about stroking...i mean activating the banana! Corking and angling the board helps. I also like reefs and points on hollower days. You can sit next to the peak rather than right on it, so the take off is a bit easier. Beach break tends to close out more on bigger, steep days.
Yep for sure! I actually found it hard to keep this video within that 11-12 minute mark because of all these extras I could have spoken about - but I will definitely cover more in the upcoming paddle videos and positioning videos 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Another really good one!! Been improving a ton because of your videos dudes. Was riding down the line last weekend and kept hearing Ryan say “Keep yourself close to the power source” hahahahaha
Cheers. I was at Medewi (point break) in Bali a few weeks back. Over 8 days I got accustomed to the laid-back left hander - then on my last day I tried the right hander: heavier, steeper, faster - had me scratching my head. Looking forward to applying your tips when I'm home.
@@KalesBroccoli new channel is cool btw. Keep it up 💪👌 I started surf-skating this year too (I have a swelltech; friend has a smoothstar). You use a Smoothstar right? Always down for vids on surfskating 🙏
thanks for this video! learned so much! it's still scary but knowledge is power! totally helpful how you break down the dynamics of steep fast waves and how the surfer can adapt!
I am finding there's a real yin/yang thing between charging for the wave when you drop in, but then getting that back foot down to drive a bottom turn and get down the line.
I’m pumped for more surf tutorials!! Ive been watching you and Ryan for a good while now, and feel like I’ve learned so much from you guys. I can’t wait to learn more.
This is just the advice I needed, thanks! I'm a complete beginner and still figuring things out and where I live the waves are always like this, small steep and fast. Last weekend I managed to catch almost every wave but would nosedive as soon as I tried to pop up. Next time I'll try to lean forward with weight on back foot, let's see how that goes :D
loved her going over the falls, we all been there... She is lucky that it's a small wave and you are there to you explain it to her and making it fun. I found section 7:33 a bit hard to understand. Leaning forward while having more weight on the backfoot, sounds contradictory. So the body above the hip is leaning forward, yet the backfoot is placed down more firmly to the back?
This is so true and helpful. Waves here change everyday. One day I feel like I’m making progress, my pop up and paddling is improving but the next day the waves are taller, faster and steeper and I feel like I’ve regressed. I try to catch one but I usually nose dive and eat it on my first wave or two on my 6’10 foamie and I feel like I’m just not ready for those waves so I just ride the white water. Going to get a board more suitable for those types of waves and work on these techniques. Thank you.
Definitely get a hard board, shorter, thruster. When you pop up, don't simply get up to your feet, but rather, as you do the pushup with your arms, raise your hips also and slide your leading knee up to your chest sideways (at this moment you are still in a horizontal position and your hands are still on the board so have good balance), then throw the board down and finish standing up. This method of bringing your leg forward is quicker than crouching first on the way to standing up. It's a kind of very flat crouch, which is faster and retains more balance. This way you get down into the face of the wave quicker and more balanced. Good luck!
Hey thank you so much for these videos, they help me a lot! I just started out and love the kind of analytical approach to your explanations. Take care my man, cheers from Tokyo.
Really like your vids mate, you break down all the essentials real nicely. Stuck in lockdown in NZ & planning on learning to surf properly after we are allowed out in the water again
it's important to completely commit and not look back or to the side. your vision should be straight down the face of the wave. it's almost one motion once you catch the wave.
Twin fins aren't necessarily looser - it's all about where your fins are placed! That one you have looks looser because your fins are way up the board away from the tail - just look at what Asher Pacey and Josh Kerr are doing on their twins in hollow waves - fins back near the tail and they are actually really hard to slide and are excellent in barrels!!
I always fall after popup on the steep waves... catching waves is so hard!!!! I will go watch the next video on how to get rid of fear. I have this big fear whenever I paddle while looking back
Thank u so so much! But i didn't understand if I need to lean forward and commit or to lean backwards to privent nosediving when dropping in the steep wave
Can you make a video on how to progress from my mal to a fish/ short board please ? The differences in body position, pop up technique when my feet aren’t on the board any more and paddling etc.
