I am not an electrician nor studying to become one. However, this has been one of the BEST tutorials I have ever come across. Hats off to the instructor! Keep up the great work! 👍
As a "Learner" I found this video incredibly helpful. Thank You! I'll now go back out to the shed and remake those connections like you showed, so they last 50 years!
Strange that you are using a knife to strip wire first thing I learned in college was put a nick in the wire it will break. That's why t stripers are the way to go in the USA. And they are multiple function. I know it's a little different wire style but it all works the same way. By the way my little girl was born in oxford 32 years ago I'm. Not a stranger to the way things work over there wonderful country You have.
Once again, thanks for making me feel good about my DIY electrical jobs. Starting with long wires in box, then correct screwdriver, then test termination to guage wire length for socket brand, use tight fitting earth sleeve so doesn't slip and spoil contact in earth terminal. I do all that as I fix the sloppy work of recommended, registered, reputable professionals. I think I've found a good one and hope he's available for the consumer unit replacement I'd like done before Christmas
Been an electrician for 26 years and I’ve never used a knife like that to remove insulation. Snips or actual wire strippers. Do everything else the same. Double back connections, leave a good length on conductors.
Excellent tutorial, Thank you. I recently bought sockets from screwfix and its a few years since i carried out a rewire. I design and make things for a living and could not believe what I was seeing. when the powers at be spout Regs and health and saftey at every breath and then I come across the very points that you made about shallow terminals, different depth terminals on the same socket and having two seperate cpc connectors, I can now call total bullshit this whole set up. First of all make all suppliers of electrical sockets conform to one standard so that all the sockets have their terminals in the same place and the same depth also have one cpc connector joined internaly (dont understand why you are connecting them seperatley but stand to be corrected if you have a valid reason ie how many people have been killed because both cpcs have been connected to one connector). Next one of the big companys like Milwaukee need to make a tool that cuts evrything in one go and folds the cable ends automatically including the correct length of the outer cable so that its a one press button operation in about 5 seconds. An electricians job is hard work and if all this was applied it would cut down the termination side of the job by 2/3rds not to mention ware and tear on the electricians hands(which matters when you are the wrong side of 50 and you still have to work until you are 67}. Lastly, this whole system needs to be dumped and changed to the wago system and be done with this. All electrician need to get together and only buy one type of socket, that would force the manufacturers of the crap sockets to change or go out of business. We need more People in charge that have a technical background not academics/ lawyers/ economist, preferably non university graduates. We need more Elon Musks(people that can think for themselves and are not sheep). Ok Rant over, going back to finish the termination now(oh joy).
You right the amount of wrong connector terminal some appliance light fitting don't mach the uk irish wire ring standard And who come with the idea for lsf cable in domestic forget how to work Cable more rigid very hard to strip bulkier and personally I prefer when a smke smell from cable Many call out when people smell something is wrong
Great simple tuition and someone who knows his screwdrivers 😀 a driver for lighting and then larger one for the sockets , I bet you don’t brake your drivers , 👍
Really helping me whilst in at college.. doing my level 2 and currently doing this now! A lot of great tips and tricks in your videos that feels like it’s just that extra sense of insight!
@@mark86sprk5 You do like to "write" provocatively 😂😂😂. You'll probably get an avalanche of responses coming up with myriad reasons for and against. I used to take the view that one day I might be standing in the dock having to justify my reasons for doing a job "just so". Spending a few moments earthing a box might, rpt might, be your "get out of jail" card. Literally. Most of us will have seen this debate on other vlogs and will have formed an opinion one way or another. This debate is perhaps going to be a reprise of those.
@@t1n4444 i don't mean to provoke but I do resent negligence. Why do anything less than to maintain the integrity of a connection to the highest standard. Any argument to the contrary is not good enough when distributing electricity.
the only time i would double over conductors is when there is only one in the terminal. what if your are taking a spur from the socket, you wouldnt get three doubled over conductors in
I have seen them twisted together found when testing ring and cable broken off. Depends on make they mostly have clamp type terminal I only double the earth wires.
Hi, great video! Q: Why do you need to add CPC sleeving, if it was needed why does it not come as standard? Also, if the CPC size is 1.5m, would you get the same size sleeving, or 0.5 bigger; so in this example 2m. Thank-you!
You missed the bit where you have to dig your cables out of the wall first after the plasterers skimmed over the box! Following that I would strip the sheath to the length of a standard English carrot leaving the inner insulation to be stripped using my teeth because I'm old school! 👴🏫🤐
A demonstration on wiring up a single socket would be good rather than the easy peasy double always seen in videos.🙂. Especially the favourite part; cramming all those wires into the back-box. 😵💫
also in Ghana in West Africa, we follow British standard of wiring. And we use 2.5mm for socket, thus the live, neutral and earth or CPC. And the cpc is insulated but you used 1.5mm and not insulated
There is a document listing the torque for plugs and sockets in BS 1363-1:2016 13 A plugs, socket-outlets, adaptors and connection units. Specification for rewirable and non-rewirable 13 A fused plugs
Always use Sheers/5-1 Knipex or strippers never a knife for inner cores. Also like to see a tiny bit of copper sticking just outside the terminal so I know there's no chance it's screwed down onto insulation also don't tend to double over unless it's a single cable. Rule of thumb for length was always taught as: from side half the width of the box past / from top or bottom double the height of the box.
It is easier, quicker (and safer) by using Wago types of push fit connectors for the stiff 2.5 T&E cable. In site work, using Wagos in the boxes it is ideal on the first fix to connect the 2.5mm ring, then test to ensure the ring wiring is OK. Any problems are identified immediately before plastering and/or wall closing. *First Fix* ♦ Connect the two 2.5mm T&E cables into the Wagos, then push the Wagos to the back of the box. ♦ Test the cable. ♦ Plasterers, wall fixers complete their work. *Second Fix* ♦ Cut 2.5mm *single* core insulated *flexible* cable to the right length (about 4 to 5 inches) - L, N and E, all insulated. Easily done on a bench. ♦ Then screw the flexible _single_ L, N & E cables into the back of the socket. Easily done on a bench. ♦ Then push the three flexible wires into the three Wagos. ♦ Then it is easy just to push the socket back and screw up as the three cables are *flexible.* No stiff T&E cables in the socket terminals putting stress on the terminals. Just push the socket back easily and only once. *Note:* ♦ With metal boxes you may need three terminal Wagos for the L and N and a four terminal for the earth - one to the socket, one for each T&E and one to the metal box earth terminal. From the Wago to the metal earth terminal use flexible cable which can be fitted on the first fix. The Wagos are neat and out the way in the box. Then a plasterer can come along with no problems after the first fix. The socket and three flexible wire tails can all be cut and connected on a bench very quickly and easily (imagine 50 of them). Then an easy job of pushing in the flexible tails into the Wagos and screw up the socket after the plaster is dry. Test again with sockets connected.
What mm cable are you using? Is it best practice to use 2.5mm or 4mm? Also should you always use the ring to connect multiple sockets? or can you stop at the last socket?
Is that single strand 2.5mm cable? Here in Kenya nowadays, rarely will you find a single strand conductor of more than 1.5mm. For 2.5mm and above we have stranded cables only
I've always notice after copper been crushed in the terminal by the screw the copper relaxes and it become loser over the next few weeks . after testing with a toque screwdriver the reading a few weeks later is less .
Please i want to ask you this question; what's the right order in which you should arrange your circuit breaker in your consumer unit. should it be from the lowest breaker to the highest or highest breaker to the lowest and why... Thanks
For years when working on my own buildings I have twisted the cable ends together when connecting to the socket, is this ok? I was taught that method many years ago by an electrician mate I used to help out on jobs
changed one of my sockets at home.... one of my blue wires had current on it... I know you are supposed to switch of power supply when you work with electricity all right .... is that normal?
I think most people would agree with double over if there's only one conductor (so the screw doesn't tighten on the side of a conductor). No need to double over when there's more than one conductor though.
When it’s a single cable you get way better grip when it’s doubled back, each to their own I suppose, takes 2 seconds, less chance of a loose connection
Just wondering why you double over when you have 2 x 2.5mm2 6242y going into a socket? I believe the terminals are designed to accept them in singles, unless just 1 x 2.5mm2 present or 2 x 1.5mm2 need connecting. Connecting the earths... I was told that splitting the cpc’s into the separate terminals provides a clean earth for IT equipment, so maybe you could clarify?
When i was starting out as an electrician there was this company once which the boss told me off for putting one cpc in each earth terminal on a double gang socket, he said you don't do that which i was confused about why not?
I got a 2 gang power socket in the kitchen plasterboard , which is convention straight from top including twin cables (as per your video). If I wanna extend 3/4 power sockets from that point, shall I connect/extend both the twin cables to the next power socket ?? ?🤔
No means of disrespect here but Iv never used a knife to strip cable?? Always croppers or side cutters... surely there more east to use to strip cable?
100% correct - learners can find faster ways of doing it on-site... I use a knife to build hand I coordination skills which is often lacking in younger learners. Thanks for commenting. Gaz
I don't see why there would be any need to deviate from this when doing it for real? Of course I understand why there may be deviation (shortcuts!), but really there is no excuse!
@@GSHElectrical and it’s a good technique, just mentioned as box is still the same when cable enters from above/bottom and plenty of room inside. Being installations here non rewirable it’s good to leave plenty of slack for the years to come.
I always twist two conductors together. It gives the screw something solid to grip on and I've seen far too many sockets where the screw only secured one cable. At best the cable comes out and the ring is broken, at worst it causes arcing.
Being an electrician from Austalia, and knowing that the AS/NZS is very much based on the BS, I just have to ask the question that if you have a socket outlet on the wall like that, don't you require somekind of as we would call it "mechanical protection" over the cables? We would have to use conduit if you can can see it like that, not higher up, but definately at that kind of level. solid conductors are now only used in 1mm2 conductors, you don't twist the conductors together before screwing down? Also, why has no one come up with a socket yet that covers of the screws!
There a few company's who don't like the use of knives (apparently you might cut yourself) it does make doing some jobs a tad difficult ! Most people ignore this advice .
@@E6EES Because R2 (cpc) is connected across the full width of each socket's earthing plate leading to an higher value than R1. The more sockets on the circuit, the more the discrepancy between R1 and R2 which should be roughly the same value/lengths when dead tested.
@@andrewweston8954 Absolute rubbish! The resistance is negligible. Also R1+R2 is the reading taken before the circuit is energised in order to take the Zs reading which is the important reading to ensure the required disconnection time is met.
@@andrewweston8954 yes, absolute rubbish. I've explained the reason for taking the R2 reading. An nic inspector would explain the same but I would hope you are not a qs as you do not seem to understand the basics.
Hi A bit off topic, but why have a busbar and the neutral wires not directly connected into each circuit breaker.? An explanation would be appreciated.
Say you go into the breaker with the neutral, where would it then go after that? The answer is back to the substation at the end of your road. It's the same reason you have an earth busbar, to link all the wires together so that 1 thicker cable can run off somewhere else. Think of it like your cars exhaust manifold. You don't have an exhaust for each cylinder, instead they are grouped together and have 1 larger exhaust pipe going to the rear). MCB's don't require a neutral as they just detect overcurrent. RCD/RCBO's are residual current detectors. A really simple way of explaining this (there's more too this so please don't treat this as gospel) "3.11 amps has gone out through the live, 3.11 amps has come back through the neutral (for example)" Obviously if you only get a current 30mA lower than that it's going to earth somehow.
Before that it was the phase - both line and neutral are live conductors. Example if the line has 10 amps in it the neutral also has 10 amps hence both live conductor 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical I get what you're saying but I've just checked some socket wiring instructions online from Schneider and BG and they all call the cables live and earth. No reference to line. To me, line implies a low voltage signal wire carrying data (analogue or digital). You don't want to get that mixed up with a 240V live wire!
Of course this all falls over in real life when replacing a socket outlet with short cable available. 9 times out of ten the terminals will be configured wrong relative to the existing layout or you’ll find a spur bodged in. All terminated in the cheapest nastiest socket outlet available!
Agreed 💯 an unfortunate truth, along with the taped up connector blocks buried, even twisted and taped connections and the list goes on 🤣 I spent 4 hours today chasing down a cpc continuity fault on a ring circuit....most outlets were hidden behind wardrobes, extension lead centipedes, new sockets and new colour wires in a property with the old red and black, client states "its all original" but a friend admitted to changing a faceplate and adding 1 socket. The culprit was a 2G outlet with 4 individual 2.5mm T&E rammed in connector block, with fly leads of individual 2.5mm cores to the outlet 🤔 they tried to extend the ring, I thought so I configured the terminations correctly, but now my r1+r2 are way too high 😤 trace the new cables and find a spur on a spur, on a spur THEN TO A FUSED SPUR OUTLET and continues on to the other side of the kitchen 🤦♂️ can't split the ring, no room in CU, kitchen and bathroom are tilled floor to ceiling walls and floors ..... if theyd got it right in the original socket or even put the fued outlet before the 1st or even before the 2nd new socket .... but nope!!! So close, yet soooo far 🤣 anyway rant over lol
Never remove insulation from conductors using a knife, it is inevitable the copper will get marked by the blade, a tiny nick or even scratch made in the copper surface seriously weakens it at that point, causing the conductors to fracture as they get bent into shape, this is a fact not a myth.
Anyone please. I have a two way switch in my hallway which works fine but near the front door it is a double switch 1 for hall light on the two way system and one for the porch light , but the porch light only works when the hall light is switched on . Switch off the hall light and the porch light goes off too. how to switch porch light on and off with the switch regardless of the 2 way switch. Been wired wrong surely , must be easy fix .. any electricians help . Thanks
Hi there, i had an issue with my consumer unit whilst replacing a double socket. I had replaced an old plastic double socket with a Wandsworth brass double socket. Before doing any work I turned off the relevant consumer unit switch and tested the sockets to ensure no power was running through them. I started with adding the earths to both the socket & back box. During this time strangely the whole consumer unit tripped when the back box got connected to the rear of the socket? AND the same thing happened when I connected the Neutral? I tested the socket and cables when the consumer unit tripped in both instances and found no current running through them? Does anyone know why the consumer unit tripped when I have disabled the circuit that I’m working on? I can only think of some king of static feedback from the brass cover plate? Thanks in advance for any help with this 🙏🏽
RCD’s will usually trip if you touch earth and neutral. There is usually enough floating voltage on the neutral to cause this ( you only need 30ma of current flow. Pain in the arse if you are working in the loft as the lights go out.😂😂
Are you sure you didn't screw one or more of the socket terminal screws in and nipped i to a cable. Change the old socket back and see if that makes any difference. Visually inpect all of the cables in the back box. Either that or you have more then 30mA earth leakage.
Hi. I know I am an old. But when I was taught. The earth's had to be twisted together and put into one terminal with a lead to the box if using metal. (Metal box earth's go to the back box first then fly lead to socket. This it to protect the metal box from becoming live and killing somebody). Why. Well if you lost the earth in one terminal then the rest of the sockets in the line / circuit have lost the earth protection. If the circuit is a radial. ????? Why the change. ?????
It's often not necessary to earth the back box anymore - all sockets for quite some time now have earthing rings around the screw holes which connect to the CPC terminals on the back of the socket (the socket has a metal bar running round the back of it connecting both screw terminal holes and all CPC terminals). This means the screws are always earthed, for metal sockets the faceplate is also always earthed. Earthing the backbox is pointless now, plus the screws from the face plate going into the back box will in turn earth it. Some have argued that an electrician who has unscrewed the faceplate and pulled it forward, could get an electric shock off the backbox if a live conductor has come loose......the reply to that is why is the electrician working live, and secondly the CPC could have pulled out or other faults exist etc. Earthing arrangements are to protect the consumer not a dozy/lazy electrician. As for twisting CPC's together - some still do it, but it's frowned upon nowadays as it makes testing a right pain in the arse - especially in CU's with them twisted in one sleaving - ugh!
A knife to strip conductor insulation has no control not to nick or cut the conductor. A properly adjust pair or wire strippers will not do this and is safer. You get to keep all of your fingers.
I make my learners use a knife in the early weeks to build hand eye coordination. If we let them lose on side cutters or pliers to remove the insulation they tend to cut through the copper conductor hence the knife. Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz
The length of the conductors are to long Ln my opinion, I myself I take hold of the conductors in a clenched fist with my hand just touching the back box and then snip of about half inch from my thumb that gives me the perfect length
@@GSHElectrical no thank you I have no idea how to plus I am two scared of the crap thrown back at me I had a heart attack 8 years ago due to stress and sh- t I was getting on Facebook, so I am happy to just watch your fab videos a learn as much up to date stuff as I can . Thank you for your hard work putting these videos together there great. SORRY for being a bit BITCHY sometimes I just don't like change for the sake of change I am old school and I love it as I know we're I am and what I am doing if it isn't broken don't fix it simple
