You are only testing the secondary of the transformer. The primary, with its electronics, has to be tested also. That is what failed in my coil. You test the male spade terminal where the on of switch connects, to the metal part of the coil. There should be a reading in ohms, but much smaller. Mine was open. The on off switch, and it’s wiring shorts the primary coil to ground, shutting off the machine if the switch or wiring is shorted, the machine won’t start either.
Every single video on this subject (not just yours) are like “here’s how to test a coil. I don’t know what the numbers for this unit should be but it’s showing some numbers so this one is good. I won’t mention what numbers you might expect for a bad coil, or what goes wrong with a coil or anything. Hope that helps!”
You don't need to know the exact numbers as long as they're not shorted or open and they show a decent amount of resistance forget the number unless you have them in front of you Always check primary to ground Secondary to ground They will never have the same ohms from primary winding. To secondary winding
That's not true. A couple of videos have stated a reading in the "3 to 5 area", based on resistance setting 20K. It is quite clear most videos are published by people who only work on these engines. Keep in mind, they are very likely NOT engineers nor are they going to lookup, research the engineering data t know exactly what the "working range" test results should be .....unless of course, they have actually taken a Briggs and Stratten course that details ALL important engine details. Just my observation, most of the videos are done by people who have some "experience" servicing. I have yet to hear anyone even bother going into the theory of operation and magneto to explain how rock solid (explosion proof) this engine design is. As soon as I hear one of these "experts" title their video with "motor" or mention "motor" ....I am on to the next video. .
How are you getting an accurate reading by hooking the positive to the ignition wire of the coil on the unit and then hooking the ground to the coil off the unit
My southland edger has a reading of 10.59 at settings 20k ohms on multimeter and it wont spark the sparkplug unless i remove the ignition and kill switch wires
A tip! Anybody with aging equipment, buy a coil! I've e got a Troy Bilt Pressure Washer, 2015, coil went bad. No problem! I'll buy another one! Spent a solid week trying to find one. NOBODY HAS THEM! Warehouses out. Briggs out. Dealers out. Troy out. A perfectly good 7 year old Pressure Washer down for lack of a coil. Buy A Coil
thanks for posting -am trying to get a spark on an little used but fairly old Honda generator -am told the coil module is obsolete and not obtainable- could a substitute be used and could the coil/spark module be repairable
You could check to see if your old obsolete coil had any replacements, other wise you would have to try to match it from something else. But you would need to make sure the poles are the same, as in distance, or the timing will be out. As for repairing the old one, I have no idea. Maybe someone could fix it.
Worse if your engine sort of runs ok but shuts down after 10-20 mins hot and fuel system is ok?? Drove me crazy till i realized the coil was de- laminating and shorting when HOT! I guess to test you could put a hair dryer on the coil and watch the resistance go down a bit? and then suddenly short out!!
5:04 Hi Ben, from Alberta Canada. That gap, between those coil pickups, and the rotary flywheel, should be 10,000 of an inch. Or, the thickness of a standard business card. They work well, and are just the right size. Thanks.
That’s what I’ve learned about testing coils, however I called the saw shop today and they told me that that test doesn’t work. Can you believe that, they told me, that test doesn’t work. One of the oldest saw shops in my area says that test doesn’t work. I’m not impressed
I have learned something, THANKS... How is this, I have a NO SPARK condition and the coil was test by a shop here in Seguin TX good, but after reinstalling still no spark. Yesterday it ran a little while, and latter never again. I tested the coil with 20K OHMs and got a -1 reading... a sign it has gone bad..
Ahh that's good, I picked up a blower with weak spark and coil reads 3.98k ohm. Spark plug centre electrode reads 18.6k ohm so might try a new plug and get new fuel primer lines. Thanks
the test you just did was checking for an open winding thats all the ohms reading tells you the fact that you obtained a reading at all tells you coil is not open but it could have shorted winding ----- spinning fly wheel with plugs out and screw driver inserted into plug is a good test for spark ---if wood ruff key is damaged and fly wheel not lined up correct will show no spark before you start replacing coils veryfi wood key is ok on fly wheel this put magnet at right place at right time
Looks good in checking secondary resistance. That's just one step. How do you test the embedded primary circuitry in seal(potted) ignition coil pack? Thanks for the instructional video.
Hi Ben. What if the coil is down to earth?. I haven't seen you test those coils for shorting down to earth here. Yes, you have the HT coil resistance, but if it is down to earth then it is faulty. Your shut off switch shorts it down to earth to stop it.
