Very well explained. Thank you. Found code for IAC on a vehicle that i was working on today. Engine is really rough. Multiple misfires, running rich and whatnot. Perfect time to perform test.
Thank you! Looking at a car with no real issues except an IAC code. Your video has LOTS of testing info, and the picture-in-picture was a NICE addition. Very informative!
Thank you for showing the way to test the IAC. I am going to test mine tomorrow. I was really worried that I was going to have to replace the part and I don't have a lot of cash. SUBSCRIBED!! And please keep the videos coming this one was very informative.
This is a great video. I've been working on an idle issue on my mercruiser boat engine. Someone explained to e that I should check for power and resistance on my wiring harness at the IAC. I had no idea how to do that until I watched your video. Great attention to detail. The inset camera view as you test for resistance is a great feature! Thanks a bunch!
Great video. Buying a good digital meter paid off with its first use. Since my Eclipse GT wasn't throwing any codes, but wouldn't idle, I needed to test the part I thought might be the culprit. This video showed me how to do it. New IAC= Big smile & big savings!
Good Video work with the Picture In Picture (PIP) showing the details of the testing the connectors. Those details make all the difference when trying to learn what you're doing. The are a lot of instructional videos on RU-vid but the camera work is so bad that your not able to see what exactly that the person is working on. I appreciate the extra attention to detail for learning purposes. Keep up the good work
Thanks a lot Dude. I'm having idle issues with my car and I didn't know how to comfirm if the IACV was responsible for it. That's history now thanks to your very informative video. God bless you.
Thanx for the vid. Helped alot. On my way to buy a new one. When I tested the old one had 5 oms of resistance. When I took it out to see if it rose whenthw ignition was on the top part went flying out. Hahaha. Hope this solves my problem. Thanx bro.
Great explanation... I followed your last test. When I turn on the ignition I hear the IAC click and if I leave it in the ON position for a few secs without starting the engine, the IAC clicks back to the off position. Is this normal behavior? Thanks Jake
Thank you for the video. Quick question, I was getting P0505 too and bought a replacement part on Amazon. No more p0505 code but this particular IAC makes noise when the key is set to accessories. It sounds like a little motor is constantly running. Is that normal or should I ask for a replacement?
What are the part#'s for the 5 screws that hold the IACV to the Throttle Body? I messed up those phillips head screws removing them cuz they were a bit stuck. 2001 Maxima GLE
Can you show how to check harness for short to ground and short to power? This is actually the next step someone should do after doing the methods you showed. Thanks.
Great video, but I need to go a bit deeper. I want to learn exactly how the IAC steps, they are not simply fully open or fully closed, they can be set to various positions by the ECM to get different idle speeds. Yours has two sets of 3 pins. Pins 2 and 5 have 12V to them, then I guess a Ground signal from the ECM on pin 1 half steps the valve in one direction and then a Ground on pin 4 puts the other half step in that direction. To move the valve the other way, the ECM applies Ground signals on the 3 an 6 pins in a similar fashion. Is that correct? I have a GM 1987 2.8L V6 Fiero. My IAC valve has only 4 pins. I want to make a setup to actuate the value on the bench. My brother is an instructor at Porter and Chester and he would like to have a little set up to demonstrate how IAC valves work to his students. So learning how they actually work is the first step. I read 50 Ohms across each pair. I guess one pair moves the valve in one direction, and the other pair moves it in the other direction - but not quite, read on. I took some baby steps and tried it with 5V first... no action. Then I tried it with 9V (to be safe). One pair of contacts, still no action, but on the other pair puts a small twitch on the plunger in one direction (even if I reverse voltage polarity on the pair, it still twitches in the SAME direction). Ok, I guess it does use 12V, but seeing just a twitch is on right path. But the twitch was rotational on the plunger NOT in or out, and again, I expected it to twitch in the other direction using the other pair of contacts - but not the slightest twitch with those contacts! So, before I try it at 12V, I need to get a better idea on what signals/timing the ECM puts on the IAC valve to actuate it. There appears to be no position feedback from the valve to the ECM. I guess on power up, the ECM steps the valve many, many times to get to a fully open (home) position, and then the ECM keeps track of the step pulses to determine its position from then on - until power off. I have used stepper motors many times in the past, and that is what is nice about them, you don't normally need any feedback because the are dead on accurate on the position (and knowing it's position) if you pulse them properly. But I have no operational specs on my IAC valve. Any ideas? Thanks.
I got question guys. I got a 1998 5.7liter GMC Suburban. My idle seems to be a little high, it's idling now more or less at 1300 sometimes seems like 1500 , Do you think that the idle control valve could have something to do with this issue? I was thinking maybe it was possibly stuck open.. Thanks ahead again guys, you guys are always highly appreciated! 👍
Does this work for motorcycles as well? I’ve took my IAC valve of and left it connected..when I turn the key to on position, it doesn’t move at all.. Side note: I’ve been having problems with my motorcycle not being able to idle for more than 5 seconds..I changed everything but today I decided to check the IAC valve and it doesn’t move on the key on position
Do I need to reset my computer on my 1999 Subaru legacy outback, after I check and clean my IACV? I didn't actually remove it all the way but after reassembling, my car is now acting like my battery isn't working for a minute. It starts but immediately dies. When I try to turn over again, it acts like I have a dead battery but if I wait a second then try again, it starts but not in a strong way. I know my battery is fine because I just got it tested. When my father and I replaced and adjusted my TPS the other day, we followed the recommended computer reset protocol and that got rid of the At Oil Temp and check engine light. It is shifting so smoothly now and all seemed perfect so we decided to see if we could clean the IACV, we were concerned we might screw it up so just shot carb cleaner into it and then put all the hoses and sensors back into place. Seemed to be fine until the next day when I went to start it and experienced it dying and then having issues starting. I've never had an issue with it starting. Wondering if i should've done the computer reset after messing with the IACV too. Or perhaps we didn't put something back correctly? Anyone have any advice here?
Great videos. I have a P0505 hard code which I believe has something to do with either the ISC motor and/or ECM. But before I fix this code and spend lots of money, I noticed that all four of my readiness monitors are NOT complete. I understand the procedure to reset these readiness monitors, but do I need to repair this P0505 first BEFORE I can run the readiness monitors? Is there another option or procedure to reset these readiness monitors first? I know I can get several other codes when the four readiness monitors are run, but is there a way to reset these monitors so I have an idea of what else is wrong with my vehicle? I don't want to spend money to repair code P0505 ONLY to find out other codes later when the readiness monitors are run. Please help.
omg this is so helpful right now my car is idling like.3000 rpm I just replaced the throttle body part but trying to figure out why it idles so high when I turn it on
your very detail about your videos there great.. i was hoping you could help me out. i had a stuck idle pulley it was melying the blet. change it works good now. but i noticed that my 2003 dodge durango truns off now when im at stop. also if i have it on park and give it some gas about 4,000 rpm it dies... i was told to adjust idle. would you know how yo do that.. i was also told that i should just clean the throttle body and iac.. any recommendations.. thanks
CarsNToys hey mate. I've changed this, ECU, air flow. and yet it still idles at 2200 when cold! the coolant icv kicks in when warm but when it's cold it's high revving. it's a 92 Mitsubishi Pajero ( Montero ) 3.0 v6. any ideas? thank you
does the iac valve cause symptons of 1. high rpm over 1000 2. low rpm 1000 or less 3. car shakes when its on 4. lack of power like if the car wants to shut off while you driving it or not driving it. ??? 5. motor feels weak like if it dont wanna stay on feels like if it want to shut down?? 6. can it also cause battery to die out also?? sorry just curious to know please help me on this one. thanks for your time and patience god bless.
Would be the same test for a two pin set up. 2001 ford ranger 3.0l I put in a new one and still getting the code and running really bad. I''m thinking it might be a bad ECU. Any thoughts
Great video, you test for power in the sensor, the sensor has 6 pins, you only showed the two for power, what are the others 4 pins that you did not test, are they 2 grounds and two signals? Please let us know and what are the voltage of those others pins, thank you. Cheers from ontario ca
Does the first test applicable in all 6 pin iacv? Mine is suzuki and has a 6 pin iacv. I wanted to test the iacv coz my engine when running for 30 mins there's a problem occure like when you press the accelerator a little bit the rpm will surge to 1800. Also I notice that when the ac compressor cut off the rpm also surge to almost 1800.
Excellent video, very helpful, a mechanic told me that after a replacement, The computer should be reset? it is a mitsubishi outlander 2003. is this neccesary? how reset the computer?
how you're doing I have a 1996 mercury grand marquis gs and it's making a very loud humming noise and I thought it was a wheel bearing but it wasn't a wheel bearing they said it was a idle air control valve so all I have to do is just change it and it will eliminate the problem
Thanks for the tip on Ohms. I bought a new one and my car did not run well. I tested the new valve (mine had only 2 pins) and there was almost no resistance.
Good show. But if ur having idle issues u may need to clean the valve and seat and air passages and throttle body too. Or u could have significant vacuum leak somewhere. Or u may need. A tune up. Plugs ,cap n rotor, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, ect.
Hey man i have a question. I did the last test and the pintle shot out of the IAC. Is that because i was stupid or something else every time i turned the car to the off position it would go out so far then it shot out still trying to find it as we speak.
Tried the last step where you take out valve and turn the key, my valve exploded like others said theirs did. I got a new valve in and it actually fixed my idling problem but be warned, you run the risk of destroying your valve if you actuate it without it being mounted in your vehicle!
Great video. I tried to remove the iac from my car but I stripped one of the screws. Any ideas to get it removed? Tried using pliers but couldn't get a good grip to loosen it up. Thanks in advanced!
I like the video, only suggestion would be to go a bit slower when showing where this part 'lives' and zoom in from wide view towards the part/area of the car you are working on. But great Info!!
Good good video, T have a 01' Mazda Tribute 3.0. Idles rough, checked IACV clean inside. No power at key ON! Im on disabillity, things are tight like most places. That fuse on the IACV also tends to EEC, VPWR, EVR, MAF, ( bulkhead)? Most abbreviations I'm familiar, but EEC , EVR? V power ! I guess ? Ha ha it starts right up! 5 seconds later it starts to stumble to death (dies)! Plz sir i need help .
Could you please help me locate the IAC location on 2002-2005 Audi A4 1.8T B6 Model? mine is 2005 B6 and I am having terrible time with my idling. Every effort to locate the IAC has been unsuccessful
So this must be the winding noise I hear...I just installed a repaired ecu from ebay and my car won't stay on unless I give it gas once it warms up it will stay on...where can I get a new one iac and why is the ecu not calibrated to work right
i replaced the iacv with a used one and still the same problem, at cold starts it stalls until it warms up, no vacuum leaks. what else could it be or should i have replaced it with a nee iacv? thx.
All your testing checked out for me except for the last step at 5:20 on my 95' 3000GT. When I turned the car on several times, the shaft did not move at all. I decided to try it again and the first time I turned it on, it moved ever so slightly but wouldn't move again after I turn it back off and on. Is this an indication this part needs replacing?
I have a 04 Ford Freestar that will act like it's running out of gas at first cold start. Fuel pressure is fine. If I hold RPM's at 3000 or more for a minute it will be fine but RPM's at idle are jerky. No check engine lights are on. Sound like the IACV to you? Thanks
Question regarding a 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE. The resistance check is good and the voltages are good. I have removed the valve to check if it moves when turning the ignition on/off and it does not move. The valve was taken off of a working car. Any suggestions?
I tested the IAC VALVE like you did in the end of video. And it only move left to right not out and in. Does it need replaced? Can I send you a video of what it does so you can see what it does thanks.
Dear guy, My Mitsubishi Galant year 1990 has a problem the rpm not stable in idle. When give load like AC ON or Head Light ON or move the wheel steer the idle rpm will run rough up and down excessivelly and sometimes the engine shut down by it self. I already changed the Idle Valve sensor 2 times and check the resistant is ok. The output power from the plug is 12.5 volt, but the problem still exist. I checked the movement of the Idle Valve sensor plunger but it movement was only shaking and not extend or retract. Is the ECU bad ? Please your suggest. Thanks alot. John Purwanto, Tangerang City, Indonesia.
Thank you for your informative video. In regards to the last step, how can I supply power to the IAC without removing it completely (since mine is part of the throtle body assembly) using a multimeter to see it actually mechanically moving? Thanks.
I'm getting the code to suggest mu iacv us bad. When changing out the iacv am I required to install a new ecm? I've read in several place I should, but your vedio didn't suggest it. Btw, I talk your video as gospel as you do amazing work. One last thing I have a 97 infiniti i30 if that matters. Thanks.
+Bobby Gee Did you get this fixed? You need to check the ECM if its bad also. When the IAC goes bad, it shorts out the chip in the ECM (this is a common occurrence in maximas and i30s). You'll see a burned chip if you take out the ECM. GL
I have the code and replaced the iac # 530 306 57ab on a 1999 dodge Durango. After spraying carburetor cleaner all over the carb and cleaning it and putting on the new iac it will not start at all. The security light is on. I disconnected the battery to reset it still won't start.
hey just saw this awesome vid. but I came into a problem. did everything you did and everything thing checked out cleaned it up a bit then put it back in but still have code showing. any advice?
HI Great Video very detailed! 2 quick questions please? 2001 Nissan Maxima. In park the rpm's go from 1200 to 1800, back to 1200 back to 1800. It does this very quickly and does not stop. Is this a symptom of a bad or crudded up IACV? Also I read one place that replacing the IACV could short the ECM or maybe when it fails it could short the ECM, have you ever heard of this? I'd like to prevent a shorted ECM from happening if possible when I go to check and possibly replace the IACV. Thanks a lot!!
First off thank you for such awesome informative videos! I did your test procedure on my 2000 maxima with the p0505 code, and it all checked out to be ok. I am still getting of course the p0505. Could it be that the throttle body needs a good cleaning, or what else would cause the code? Thanks in advance for your help and keep up the great work!
+doug resha Thanks man. If you checked the harness connector and the iacv, the '00 Maxima also has an air control valve on the power steering. If the vacuum hose or valve stops working correctly, you could get code p0505. You could pinpoint it quite quickly with a sophisticated scan tool. The basic scan tools won't pick it up.
@@CarsNToys but you didn't answer his question, if you do check All those things, what else can it be? I assume vacuum leak, are their any worst case scenarios with a p0505?
in Nissan sentra 2003 should idle valve axle go out or go in after switching on because I have rpm problem and note that my idle valve work opposite the video '''putting car on universal computer found no DTC ,,,my idle rpm 1000 and fluctuating while driving if I release petrol pedal on gear
So I have a 99 gmc sonoma. And she runs great. But! Every day coming home from work the rpm surges when I'm doing over 70mph. My gmc does not have the check engine light on or any other. And when the rpm surge happens she has power. No transmission slip she takes off and when I step on the gas it goes down to normal speed but continues to surge.
You mis-identified the leads from the AC to the connector. 2 became 5 on the IAC and 5 became 2. The terminal you stated was 2, became 5 when you went to the IAC.
Hi David, in my car, the coil part is easier to remove than the entire IAC. I did a test, the harness was getting 11v, some pins on iacv was having 30ohms while some had 29ohms. While car was idling(though rough idling), I unplugged the iacv harness, i didnt notice any change. If I change only the coil, will the effect be same as changing the entire iacv?
my car idles like crazy and stops on me its a 96 nissan maxima if i clean ghe iac will it help i cleaned first half of my throttle but didnt take it fully apart to clean.other side any tips? i really need to fix this
I checked mine it does shows everything you've had explained but still have the problem.& the scan shows a bad iac what it could be i already cleaned the EGR as well but i don't see any changes. Any suggestions???
Gotcha. On your vehicle try doing an ohms test on the valve. Grab a digital multi-meter and see if you're getting resistance. Here's another video showing how to perform an ohms test. Fast forward to 50 seconds: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j-Wr2VMvfbc.html
I have a 1998 Toyota rav 4. It idles fine, but when I put the gear to Drive or Reverse, the idle always drop & will go up again. Sometimes the engine will die. I cleaned the throttle & the IAC valve but nothing happened. What should I do? Should I replace the IAC valve? Thank you.
I tested the prongs on my Idle Air Control Valve and they read 42 to 46 Ohms on each compared to your 30. Same model of car (Nissan A32). Is that something to be concerned about? Also, when removed but connected to the harness, it moves, but not as much as in this video. It's possible that's just a subjective observation, but if it really doesn't move as much, that a cause for concern?
+Antonio Java The 30 ohms reading can vary depending on temperature. And if the valve is moving back and forth, and you don't have a trouble code for p0505, I wouldn't worry about it.
+CarsNToys Thanks, man! :) This helped me a lot in troubleshooting my car problem. I actually don't have a code scanner, so I had to do things the old-fashioned way and checked every possible point of failure one by one, including this part (which turned out to be fine, based on your input :) ).
@ carsntoys - I have a 1998 Ford Explorer XLT that idles poorly when cold & only a little better when warm. Is the IAC the problem, or O2, or F/A sensor or "all of the above" ? No Hate On's Please.
+CarsNToys - It was the O2 sensor 1, bank 1. I replaced it (with much grief), with a new one & seems to idle ok. I then took the negative battery cable off for 5 mins., but the check engine light is still on, but the system says all is ok.
Question: I have an IACV that's got only 4, not 6, terminals. So I did the ohms test on 1 + 2, 2+ 3 and 3 + 4. 1 + 2 and 3 + 4 showed about 53 ohms, but 2 + 3, nothing. Does that suggest a fault? Thanks.
