PLEASE HELPP!! so my hid is also d3s in a 2018 charger. I ordered a morimoto 2 stroke 3.0 LED bulbs, and it came as a D2H. The company claims that it should still fit. It only comes with 2 wires not 3. So cut and splice I assume. The said you only need 2 wires. My question is, "is it ok to only use 2 wires and ignore 1 of them? Also does this led hook up after hid ballast or before? Thanks.
My drivers side headlight was dimming/yellowing at one point. I pulled the fuses, they were burnt. Swapped them, the bulb worked for a while but was yellowish compared to white passengers side. Just put new bulbs in, on both sides. Bulb on drivers side worked for about 2 days but now it isn’t. The fuses aren’t blown, relays are working properly. Would you happen to have any advice?
Assuming you are talking about the xenon bulb, you need to check your ballasts. swap the bulbs left to right and see if the problem travels with the bulb or not. Possible defective bulb, more likely dead ballast. You should also use a multi-meter to confirm power to the headlight.
Hello. The front turn signal is not working on my 2015 charger is there any way that I can replace the led turn signal or do I have to buy the whole assembly?
You would have to disassemble the light to replace the LEDs. You would need a working set from another light. It will probably be easier to replace the whole headlight. Did you look for a possible blown fuse?
Hello one of my headlights randomly gets stuck on high beam. what causes the light to switch between low and high? any idea what might be the issue? I’ve already changed the bulb, ballast and the ballast wire with no luck.
In short, yes replace the whole light. You're other option is to find a working light for donor parts. The question is how much money is 3 to 4 hours of labor worth to you? Generally I recommend just buying a whole replacement light because you don't have to open and reseal multiple lights and the time saved is worth more than the cost of a replacement light. You cannot purchase the LEDs by themselves.
Hello, I have a 2017 Dodge Charger Se. My driver's side DRL stopped working. The passenger side works. At night I can see the DRL on my driver's side very dim. Any advice? I have Tried to take it everywhere.
@@user-zo1qz9uw9j honestly till now I just ordered a new Headlight Assembly to replace the who Headlight. Dealer wanted 1300 just for the part. I bought it off of Ebay for 450. I have to bring it to a autobody shop to put on. It feels depressing driving with 1 led light on 😢
I'm not sure if it a specific name, but I would normally call it the ignitor or ballast to bulb wire. this should be the same part: www.ebay.com/itm/323928179448
To GFTGRILL, I wanted to make my 2016 Charger headlight into a ramair setup like the challenger...can you wire the turn signal into the daytime running light and make it orange?
Put the headlight in the oven for 275 degrees Fahrenheit for 7 mins should be easy to pry open after that, this dude sawed his in half like a moron do not follow this.
@@gftgrill If you have a light like that one, could you show how to replace the projector to an updated LED Projector?? Like how to unglued the lens and then glue them back on.
@@austinstevens415 Here is 1 way to remove the lens: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CIU0iul5M_g.html To replace the Projector, follow the steps in this video and once you take the projector out, you will need to just swap out the OEM projector for the aftermarket projector of your choice. Every aftermarket projector is a different size, will have different mounting hole locations, and might have different wiring requirements. You will have to follow the manufacturers instructions for power/wiring requirements.
I don't have a link, but it's a Pyramid PS-12 10amp Power Supply. Mine is 20+ years old and still going without issues. You can find the new models on Amazon from 3rd party sellers, but I couldn't find any links to any big retailer websites, so I didn't supply a link. I was also unable to find a website for the manufacturer to link to.
@@gftgrill awesome, yeah I am refurbishing headlights that are badly oxidized and now that I’m moving on to bixenon assemblies w/ AFS I’m having trouble finding a good power supply. I used a drill battery for 12v and it blew a bulb already.. let me try and find some.. awesome video btw definitely subscribed
I have a halogen light, it has not been taken apart. Actually I just bought It. I wanted to take the rear wiring harness out and do some of my own mods but I can’t seem to even remove the wire harness. I’ve tried grabbing it with pliers and it won’t come loose. Am I doing it wrong or what?
I'm not sure. it should simply be a quarter turn to the left to unlock it, much like removing a halogen light bulb. you can see here : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GZR1DJavGpg.html I didn't need any tools or anything, it simply just unlocked and went into the headlight. Note that you won't be able to pull it out of the rear of the light without making the hole bigger. you will have to take the lens off to get the wire harness and connector out intact.
Hi, thanks for this video. If you don't mind saying, Where did you find the information for what each pin energizes and which pins were ground? Also, is there any danger if you mistakenly test two incorrect pins? Say you hook up pins 1 (power for bi-xenon) and pin 3 (power for xenon ballast)? Or what if you hook up pins 2 and 4 which are both ground? Thanks again for your help! I ask because I think I may have shorted out an old challenger xenon headlight when I tried to test it....I read 13 ohms on my multimeter between the first 2 pins and thought that surely that would be a safe test....wrong...smoke came out from just my brief touch
I figure this stuff out through testing, tracing wires (especially when I have a 2nd more damaged light that I disassemble), and sometimes trial & error. When trial and error testing I never connect more than 2 at a time. 1 positive and 1 negative. if you saw smoke from a component in the light, then you did 1 of two things. Either you overloaded the circuit (too much power) or you reversed the circuit and potentially damaged some component. I don't know your exact scenario but you might be fine if the smoke was just at the connector where you connected your leads. In my experience halogen and xenon components are pretty forgiving. LED components are less forgiving to 12v power and are easily damaged.
@@gftgrill thanks for the reply gftgrill! I am just recently learning about all this; but I don't see how I could overload the circuit with too much power using a 12 v car battery? It's the LED or bulb that will decide how much current to draw based on it's resistance, right? Also, in testing various other lights, I've never noticed any harm in reversing the + and - wires: on halogen bulbs it simply doesn't make a difference which wire I connect to which pin. As long as I complete the circuit, the current flows fine in either direction and the halogen bulb lights up either way. On LED and Xenon, if I happen to reverse the + and - wires, it simply just doesn't turn on, but I've never damaged anything this way. I've only ever damaged something when 2 pins happen to both be connected somehow without any bulbs in the middle....I am figuring they are either 2 grounds or 2 power pins...For Example: a Cadillac XT5 LED tail light that I tested has 5 pins....through error I learned that I can successfully test pins 1,4; 1,5; 2,4; 2,5; 3,4; 3,5.....the only difference between using pin 4 vs pin 5 in combination with any of the first 3 pins is that with one pair you get a dimmer result, and the other pair, a brighter result......But to learn this I had to first ruin another light when I tested pin 4 with 5 and shorted something....now the dimmer mode on this ruined light barely lights up at all; but the bright mode still works fine! I am stumped....
@@CATEGORY13LIGHTBODY It sounds like you may have blown a fuse on the board inside of the light or damaged something by reversing the expected flow of electricity. I test with a bench power supply that is 12v 10a. If you are testing with a car battery, you are supplying something with higher amps, which might not be as forgiving as a lower powered bench supply. My power supply generally cannot run 2 xenon ballasts at one time and does have some issues starting up some ballasts due to lack of overall current that a car battery can supply all day long.
@@gftgrill I can see how the much higher amperage of my car battery would be a bigger problem WHEN I mistakenly short the circuit....but again, if I am not shorting anything; I've never blown even the smallest of turn signal bulbs or LEDs by reversing the f low or keeping the bulb lit for even minutes at a time while connected to my battery.
Hi, I bought headlights for my 2019 Dodge Charger it didn’t fit because the car has hid original headlights and what I bought is halogen everything works except the projector didn’t work (high and low beam) what can I do to fix the problem?
I don't know if the wiring is different between the xenon and halogen versions. Assuming the wiring pattern is the same and is not different, I would confirm that you don't have any blown fuses. If the wiring diagram is the same between halogen and xenon, then it might be a difference in the computer turning power off to the lights because it's not using the amount of electricity it expects from a xenon headlight. I would recommend returning the lights and buying the correct xenon versions. You'll save yourself hours of electrical troubleshooting and possible rewiring.
as far as I know, it is not available for purchase. You can only purchase the headlight as an entire unit. You would have to find someone selling it via parts out of a used headlight or buy an entire assembly and remove it yourself.
@@TwoBrothersAuto Unfortunately this is the future of automotive headlights. LEDs are nice looking, use less energy, should last the life of the vehicle, but are for the most part being designed as completely sealed units that have few to no serviceable parts.
I cut it off with a saw. Heat is the best method for removing the lens. Should take 20-45 minutes to bake the light enough to get the lens off for most headlights
@@gftgrill Okay, so I think mine may have a problem. The bottom left pin, which is a negative wire has stopped working. What should I do?? The turn signal and running lights still work, but the cars says the turn signal is out and it blinks really fast. But the signal still works. I don’t know what to do about it
