One sure way to know if you have a bad infinite switch is the element on indicator light will stay on even when the switches are in the off position. From here you unplug your range/ stove and inspect the switches. Usually the faulty one will be burnt or frayed etc. Take a pic of where the terminal ends are connected to the switch and disconnect them then plug your stove back up. If the element on indicator light is off that is your faulty switch. Make sure the terminal ends aren’t touching any metal before plugging your stove back up for this test. This method is for those who don’t have a multi meter at their disposal.
Thanks for the info. I was able to test my switch and determine it was the problem and not the burner. When I removed the switch you could see that the contacts where burnt, but testing helped speed the process.
Nice test procedure, thanks. I'd like to know how to repair a switch that's not regulating temperature correctly. Mine is constantly on HIGH no matter where the dial is pointing, except in the OFF position where it's off.
What do I do if I have an infinite switch with a green dot? So far I’ve seen red, black, and orange, but recently my boss bought ones with the green dot.
How does this test that the switch will function correctly through a duty cycle? Surely this will fail to find a switch the only intermittently turns on or off at the incorrect times?
Yeah. They should specify what the problem is they are trouble shooting. Probably that it isn't even turning on. If the problem is that the burner is staying on the wrong temp this test wouldn't tell you much.
Majority of the problems are when the heater inside of the switch is not switched on for on positions, and causing continuous power for the heating plate. I applied some pressure to the spring by a zip tie, and got it fixed.
How about when testing an electric oven theromstat swith / oven temperature control switch? Is it considered "an infinite switch", too? I have a 90s model Frigidaire electric oven, with a Robert Shaw temp./ thermostat control switch, that has 6 wired contacts / 6 wires coming into it; they are labeled L1, L2, 1, 2, 3, 4. It has a built in copper thermostat capillary tube going around into the back of the oven. I think this switch is bad. How do I test it with an ohmeter? Thanks.
Looks like he misses to show the setting of continuity requirement and thereby reading the level of continuity also show whether the continuity is bad or good. To me, it doesn’t show the full test requirement, if I’m not wrong enough!
For the open loop, O.l., setting is on Ohm, on digital meters. For continuity test, there's a continuity setting on digital meters. If you're using an analogue meter, zero ohm is equal to open loop. For continuity test, you'd get a value for ohm, depending on the device you're testing. For continuity test, the ohm value is immaterial. As long as you get any value it shows there is continuity.
