Here's a video I made showing how to tie ratlines on a scale model ship, using the clove hitch knot....hopefully it might help someone who wants to learn.... Thanks for watching! David
Outstanding! I am just about to start my first wooden ship (Albatross 1840) and was worried about the rat-lines. This video was great. Simple, clear instructions that I can easily follow to accomplish precisely what I want to do. Well done!
I have no idea while the heck anybody would dislike this video...its bloody marvellous...I have been thinking of what is the best way to rig my HMS Endeavour...I am in New Zealand and Captain Cook sailed the Endeavour to New Zealand so for me it is very important to get it as perfect as possible...I plan on gifting it to the Auckland Museum...Thanks for the video...
Eric the Viking hello, I'm also doing the endeavour and visited your amazing country back in 2004. The guides mentioned the endeavour a few times. How did you get on with the rigging? I'm at that stage now.
Eric the Viking Hey Eric if there was a video of Christ descending from the heavens, you would get some, if not alot of dislikes, people are not always what we hope they are. But dont give up on us, all things change. peace
David... many thanks for posting this video on ratlines. Your explanation using the clove hitch is fantastic. A big help to me on my 1st wooden kit, the Bluenose. Thanks and cheers!!!
Yes, I'm building the Heller 1/100th kit. I like it. By using "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" by Longridge and videos like yours I'm having a great time with the build.
Thank you sir, well done. Im about to do a cutty sark, last one was 40yrs ago, but after some trial and effort I did the same thing as I remember, this video is a great refresher course for me, again thank you much.
Thanks David, I am just starting this process on my first wooden model and it has been very useful. Thanks again for going to the trouble of making a video. Cheers, Keith Newell. Adelaide South Australia.
Hi, David. Thank you so much for your initiative in showing how to do this. I am currently working on an Artesanía Latina model of the Santa María Nao and, while I really like the quality of their kits, they are notorious for lack of proper directions.
nice video. After doing many model I have figure out a way to do the line a better way. I look at long enough and then just start another model and tell myself I looks fine the way it is without them,
I thread the rat lines through a normal needle. I find it easier to pass the line where you need it to go. You can also end the rat line by coiling it round once and stitching through the final shroud. Doesn't create a "stub" at the end
Thank you for this video. My forth time on Revell 1/96 USS Constitution. The first three kits had the plastic coated, pre-formed, ratlines. Not too bad, but this last kit has injection molded ratlines and so I ordered a ratline jig because I could not be proud of a model with glue on ratlines. I bought a decking kit for this model, way too expensive, oh well. I might buy metal cannons and look into cloth sails as well. I have had a marble base for many years and will use it on this kit as well. I use clear fingernail polish to fix my knots, do you have any better ideas on this, thanks.
somewhere i read that ratlines are away from next ratline about 13 inch, thats 13 x 25,4mm = 330,2 mm in Real. and for ships with 400-450 tons/20-22 guns, the lower masts the shrouds have 7 1/2 ins circumference / ratlines have 1 1/2 ins circ...............the topmast shrouds are 4 1/2 ins and ratlines 1 ins. ....mizzenshrouds 4 1/2ins, / ratlines 1ins.....mizzentopmast shrouds :3 ins / ratlines 1/2ins...(info tables of royal navy).....1-1,2cm distance i use for my M1/25 Scale models..
Hello David, thanks for the graphics.I am building a model of a French 60 gun, three masted ship and of course there are a bunch of ratlines to be made. Your suggestion comes in handy. Tell me: did you weave the lines when they were installed on the ship or did you sort of make a rig up on a board according to the height of the mast? Another question: the gun barrels, did you have to make some? I don't have a model lathe and ready made barrels of 30 pounders or Long Toms are darn expensive. Any ideas? Thanks for a reply, best regards from Dallas Koelschwolf (Wolf)
Hi Wolf! As far as my experience, there's no good way to rig shrouds and ratlines off the model...the need for even tension can only be achieved by running the shrouds around the masts, and then securing them to the deadeyes. So to answer your question, the lines are installed on the model...I know it's hard to tell because I have the paper behind the shrouds to help with visibility. The model is a plastic kit from Imai, the Spanish Galleon they released back in the 60s...I did not add any aftermarket parts, the guns were just the parts from the kit. I'm sure if you want to buy cannon barrels in brass, they will run you a bit of $$...good luck! :) If you look around, you can find somewhat reasonably-priced fittings, there's a place in the UK that sells good quality fittings for pretty much anything you want...a quick look shows me that you can get sweet brass barrels for around 1-2 dollars each...for 60 guns, you're looking at 60-100 bucks...depending on scale: www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/billing_boats_cannons.html But you could also find barrels made of cheaper material and just paint them...do a little research and I think you'll find what you need, and hopefully not break the bank to do it! Dave
I have a Heller Le Chebec model (1/50th scale) and some of the rigging tie-off eyes on the deck have broken. What would you suggest to replace them with?
Awesome video! Can you explain what size thread you use for the shrouds and ratlines? I am doing my first ship model...Revell's 1/96 Constitution and plan on doing my own ratlines also! THANKS!
A basic rule is that, for the shrouds, you'll want to use line that is among the thickest of all line used on your ship, similar to the stays. And for the ratlines, you'll want to use the thinnest line of all. The stuff I used for shrouds on this model (Imai 1/100 Spanish Galleon) came on a big roll that I found at Jo-Ann Fabrics, near the knitting material...I don't know the exact thickness of it..sorry! And for the ratlines, it's just standard tan sewing thread, very thin. Another tip to remember is to run your line through a beeswax cake...makes it much easier to handle, and also adds to the strength, so it won't snap when you're trying to tie strong knots with tiny thread. I have to say, it's very ambitious to build the Big Constitution as your first ship!! Take your time and PLAN AHEAD! :) Also, if you're looking for advice and suggestions, consider joining up with an online forum, lots of shipmodelers are very generous with their knowledge...the guys at FineScale Forum have helped me tremendously in the few years that I've been building ships...it's free to join, and you can find answers to LOTS of questions....and there's always a few threads regarding the Revell Big Connie, so I'm sure it would be helpful for you! Dave
@@davidkump Thanks, David. I actually apply just a drop on the ends of each ratline, just to ensure those knots don't come loose, and leave the internal knots free of glue. BTW, great video. I actually use the Amati Loom-a-line. I find it's just a little easier and faster to do the knots in a horizontal plane, but I guess that's a personal preference. Since this is relatively close up work, I use the Carson Pro Deluxe Head Visor Magnifier. It reduces fatigue and helps speed the rigging.
Thanks for posting this. Building the Heller Victory and this is my first time doing my own rat lines. I have attempted and thrown away easily 10 hours of trial and effort and I'm finally in a place where I have the vertical stay lines looking good and ready to apply the rat lines.
I'd be happy to make more videos, if anyone has a specific question, or could use some advice/demo of a particular technique? I'm no expert, but maybe I could help!
I would be really interested in more rigging videos, just started the HMS Victory for Airfix, and I'm damn nervous about the rigging. I don't know where to start. Plan so far is to run the white thread through a beeswax holder, and then stain it once its on and tied with a brown wash. I can't even figure out how to run the thread through the holder correctly to get the lines stiff, they just get, well, limp?
Matt AH Hi Matt- When I get to the rigging stage of my current model (Imai Chinese Junk), I may record a little bit of it to share some ideas, but truthfully, the rigging on the Junk is very different than most other sailing ships, for reasons I won't get into right now, and it might not be as helpful to see how that goes. (no shrouds on the Junk, for one thing!) But, I may be able to help you a little with preparing for your Victory....if it's your first ship model, don't worry about feeling nervous! I've learned that everything seems more complicated when you don't know how to do it yet...but I assure you, a couple of tries, and anything can become easy (tedious sometimes, but easy!!).... First off, is your rigging line white? Or off-white/tan? If it's WHITE white, I would recommend replacing it, or dyeing it darker (soak it in coffee or tea overnight)...really light rigging line will be much too stark, and may look out of place. I would recommend coloring it BEFORE you rig it on the model...if you tie the lines off, and then start messing with them (or especially if you get them wet!), they will definitely change tension tremendously...if they sag, it's bad...if they tighten up, it's bad. Please color it first. Just my suggestion. :) I usually unroll lengths of line and soak it, let it dry, then wax it....many times that will also let out some of the stretch as well. I have a few thumbtacks on the wall in my work area, and there's always a bunch of different diameters/colors of thread draped over them, waxed and ready to use! Second, waxing your line is crucial. If you have a puck of Beeswax in a case/holder, that's all you need. Waxing the line serves a couple of purposes. One, it strengthens your line, so it won't break so easily when you pull it tight for knots. Also, it keeps the fuzz laid down on it...fuzzy rigging line doesn't look right. And waxing does add a certain amount of stiffness to really thin thread, but it doesn't necessarily make it hard. In this video, the line I was using for the ratlines is super-thin sewing thread, and being thin it is stiffened somewhat by the wax, but just enough so that it doesn't droop at the tip, and so that I can shape it a little bit. When waxing line, I cut pieces about 2-3 feet long, and then run them through the slots in the holder a few times each way, then I pinch the line through my thumb and forefinger and pull it through quickly a few times...this helps to embed the wax into the thread a little more, and also to remove the excess wax. Let me know if this helps you at all, and if you have any more questions...please ask! I'm more than happy to help! Once I finish the Junk, I'll be moving on to a more traditionally-rigged ship model, either the Golden Hind, or the Mayflower, and I'll be sure to include videos showing some of my painting/weathering techniques, and also more rigging, especially, standing rigging, like how I seize my stays, tying shrouds, etc... Also, if you want access to a TON of good info, think about joining the Finescale Forum, a modelers forum with a good community of ship modelers! I'm a member there, and that's where I got a lot of my first *lessons*!...it's totally free, and fun! Here's a link to the website (not spam!) cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7.aspx Good luck, and happy building! Dave
I would like to know if it harder to build a war ship like the HMS Victory or a clipper ship like the Cutty Sark. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Allen Lichner Hi Allen- One of the biggest differences between a clipper and a ship like the Victory is the armament. HMS Victory carried 104 guns at the Battle of Trafalgar. That's a LOT! And building scale-model cannon is time-consuming...very time-consuming. It really depends on the detail you want to impart, and the type of model you're building. Most of my model ships are built from plastic kits (I usually make a number of modifications to them), so they don't take me several years each to build them. But even in plastic, a quality kit will include cannons made up of between 7-10 parts each...and then if the cannon are rigged with breeching lines, etc., it gets to become quite a serious portion of the entire experience. Either way, a clipper will have a smaller number of overall parts, so I'd say that'd be easier than the Victory. However, there are many different kits available of both the Cutty Sark and the Victory, each with widely ranging quality, in terms of detail and difficulty. One could easily find a kit of either ship that would be easy enough to build, regardless of a person's current skill level. Thanks for watching my video! Dave
For ratlines, I just use sewing thread (black or tan, depending on the model) which I've treated with beeswax...the stuff I use doesn't indicate the diameter, but it's always going to be the thinnest line of all rigging. Here's a link to the thread I buy...www.joann.com/gutermann-natural-cotton-thread-110-yards/prd34702.html Hope that helps!
You are absolutely out of your mind doing this. Oh it looks better then the molded kit parts you you are crazy... All joking asideThank you for showing me how to do this
Great video. I hope to try this on my Spanish galleon when I get the ratline stage. I've cheat on older models with glue spot and always wanted that natural look. Hope to do do it this time. Your method look good and easy.
Hi David, we just shared your helpful video on our Facebbok page: facebook.com/amatimodel Keep publishing great videos, and follow us. Happy modeling !
Once I have a row done I add a small weights to the footropes and secure the knots with watered down PVA wood glue. This gives the appearance of a natural sag on the ratlines.
I am doing my first ratline ship and I have tried a couple different ways and this, by far is the simplest explanation I have seen. Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!
Have been trying to explain this to someone how to do this. No models to shroud at present. Only suggestion - if you have the white paper lined at 1 cm distance it makes it easier GREAT VIDEO
When I was building model ships I found the rigging the most difficult, however, I went to my dentist and they gave me piece of nylon that was firm and had an enclosed loop on the other end. This is used to thread your floss under a bridge. It really works great for rigging and you can find them at your pharmacy. Enjoyed the video on rat lines, thanks.
Wonderful! I'm just getting ready to add ratlines by hand on my 1/100th HMS Victory and I feel MUCH better having seen this technique demonstrated. Thank you for the post.
So glad you guys are finding the video helpful! BTW, are you building the Heller Victory kit? I'm thinking very seriously about building that model....how do you like it?
who knew? you make look far more simple than I had thought. I suppose you can get into a rhythm and make short work of an apparently daunting task! Many many thanks for the tutorial!
Rigging is not difficult. I tell people that if you can tie a knot in a piece of string, then feed the other end through a small hole you are halfway there. The rest is knowing what type of knots, a "how to" book will show you those.