How To Tile a Shower Wall 

Thanks for your question, Markita! I don’t have the specific item #, but check out some of our white shower tile options here: low.es/2y1dMv6

you need to stager the seems

Have to agree small pieces on the ends look horrible there is a way to fix that it's called adjusting your Center starting point

Al B , Thanx for your reply, l asked how this can be solved for visual appearances. Now l know the term to use.

Ron Menninga Is the dummy

Nope, doesn't matter. You're supposed to silicone around the fixtures.

She shouldn't have screwed into it at all.. you can run a laser and make that adjustment right off the get go. It's a good idea but NOT on a waterproof membrane. It would have to be patched.

@@TheGuruStud silicone a fixture does not make that application waterproof lol what so ever tiles and grout are pourus and will always be wet behind the tile. Hence why you either use a fabric waterproofing like Schluters or roll on membrane like redgard or AquaDefense. I rip showers out constantly 90% are due to the rotting from not being waterproofed. TTMAC provides industry standards on wet applications which can easily be found online and HOW they should properly be done.. this can also be used to sue a contractor neglecting to waterproof such wet applications.

+6btholac Clearly you are not following along... There is no wood that the mold you are referring about will get to, since the hardibacker is waterproof on both sides. But if it wasn't waterproofed on the back side, then there is your wood you are talking about, that you are letting the moisture get to. So which method is the mold sandwich now, yours or the video? Mold needs three things, air, moisture and organic matter, the hardi is not organic, and shouldn't grow mold, although it could happen from household "dust". As for the moisture not been able to escape, did the whole it entered from got magically plugged all the sudden, and if it did, then the first needed element is out? I agree that generally you want to create breathable environment for a house in order to avoid moisture and condensation problems, but I disagree in this instance, where you want to double and triple waterproof it...

I use a different combination, according to the type of backer board available. I really like to put 30 lb felt paper behind my cement board, I also like to silicone over my screw heads. This was taught to me by a professional I used to help, before I started my own business. I don't do a lot of tile work, I subcontract I out in most cases. But, certain homeowners want the main contractor there, through all important parts of a remodel, so I use the felt paper behind the board for. Vapor barrier more or less. Then I use the silicone over the screw heads, and I tape and glue the gaps were the backer board meets. This, in my mind keeps all the moisture, to the outside of the cement board. The felt paper is really just a last resort to stop the vapors. It has more resistance than 4 mil plastic. Not really sure I im just applying overkill, but, in my eyes, the main thing is long term results. I've had my own business for 7 years, and (knock on wood) have never had to go back to a finished job yet, other than to do new work. I started my business when I was 29! So long term is important to me. Because, I plan on being in business a while. Im a roofer, and drywaller, so, you can understand my position on keeping water out😁

Gene Neill , Moisture behind the tile, is what l am not supposed to let happen in the first place.... if it does, the only hope l would have is that my moisture proof membrane will make sure it doesn’t cause structural damage to what is behind it. ( i.e., Walls, studs, the rest of it ). It is supposed to be done as a “waterproof” ( not water-resistance system). And, now l understand how important each step of a tile job truly is.

Yes, I use 30lb felt paper as a moisture proof membrane. Really for the vapors. And, my job is most definitely keeping the water on the tile side of the the wall. Never do you want water to get to the backside, for one. The tub I just tiled, has a 20amp and 15 amp breakers running to it. The 20 is for the motor for the Jets, the 15 is for the in line heater. Both are ran to GFCI outlets, but never do we want water back there, causing trouble

GAH, I didn't see that at first view.. yeah, that looks bloody awfull.

At 2:42 you can see it 😖

I was just about to say that looks horrible. Looked down and first comment pointed it out as well

Ew. You're right.

Rozzalin Muhammad , I noticed it also, what else can be done?? The length of the tile is given, the length of the wall is given, the running bond layout is given as well. can someone explain how to achieve symmetrical spacing and avoiding less than 2” on the inseams?

Tile Fixer we're going to stick with using thinset in a peanut butter consistency vs. the real thing. But hey, you do you. Thanks for watching.

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Marilyn k,

Hope the last video is her showering.

You don’t really think she installed them with those clothes on do you?

Lol

Allen Pautsch can you make a video and show us the right way

@@victorcastillo2544 there are 100s of videos on youtube showing the right way. This isn't one of them.