How To, Tool Making In the Year 1934 

Thaks for that ,eye opening window in the past.😅

Fascinating illustration - and a learning exercise for you too. These old techniques shouldn't be lost or forgotten, as they still have their uses. 🙂

Using a wiggler with a needle point makes locating the intersection of scribed lines quicker and more accurate. This would have been the usual procedure in a tool room back in the day. The lathe face plate is really the best way to do this kind of work. Clamps with jack screws make locating the die button so much easier. Holes often have counter bores, snap ring grooves, etc. that are easy on the lathe and difficult with just a drill press. Good video that shows techniques used back in the day that are still useful in the home shop and that a good machinist should be aware of.

Informative as always Hulkster. I always like learning the "old ways." We can all learn from history.

Nice video Glenn! I'm working on a transmission adaptor to put a M5OD-r2 (late 80s-early 90s F-150 5 speed) behind my 8BA flathead in my 50 Ford Tudor sedan. I used the flathead bell housing to transfer punch the flathead pattern to the work piece (6061 alm 1" thick) drilled and countersunk the holes cut out the shape and bolted it to the block. I spent probably 2-3 hours fixturing a Windsor pattern bell housing to the adapter and centering it to the crank with a dial indicator via the center transmission support hole in the bell housing. Transfer punched and drilled the dowl holes. Re checked the center and measured 0.020" on the indicator. Which means I'm 0.010" off of center. Spec is 0.005" and since you can get offset dowls I'm calling it a win. (All of this was before I got the mill.) My point is you can get offset dowls, so the manufacturing process isn't always accurate either. And it makes sense if they were using fixture plates to drill holes in production. Second, same car. In 49 Ford went to independent front suspension on cars, it is a set op of trunnions on the A-frame ends and a king pin through the knuckle. (No ball joints yet.) The upper and lower trunnion threads are 3/4" 11 thread pitch. Normal standard for 3/4" is 3/4" 10. I found this out when I started to make a repair of the left lower A-frame. The hole is badly rounded out and the bolt threads through the ends of the A-frame as well as the trunnion. Thought you might find that interesting about the weird thread pitch on a production car. Have a good week!!!

Wow that was an eye opener into the past. Many thoughts arise from that and yes I am glad we have the tools and methods now!

Very interesting and informative 👍

Very nice work sir. That book looks interesting. A piece of history. Love it

wonderful......I have wanted to use the tool makers pins I have... but never knew how... now I do, but I will have to buy some gauge blocks I have been wanting... man, that was tedious......thanks so much for showing this old man the old ways.... my height gauge with scribe and dial indicator has spoiled me as far as marking out holes.... Cheers from Cape Canaveral, Florida. Paul

Not sure if it's related or not but 5-40 threads are very common on pre WWII firearms. Less common but still used on some modern ones as well.

Now it only takes $50,000 worth of machines to do that.

Are these 'toolmakers buttons' also called 'machinists buttons'? I was taught this sort of approach in the 1970s!

What did you use to drill it before you reamed? Wouldn't a drill bit follow the previous threaded hole?

"Herm aphro dite", not "ham orpho dite"!

Yeah,go back to how they did it in 1934.First thing,take off your safety glasses

Interesting, thank you for sharing your experiece. I am a self taught hobby machinist building small stationary steam engines and enjoy learning new things, well in this case old things.