How to Train a Dog to Walk on Leash Without Pulling - 8 TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL LEASH WALKING 

I glad you found the videos helpful. For more helpful information on dogs visit the index page of the Homeskooling website. It has helpful information on a variety of topics. www.homeskooling4dogs.com/index

Yes treats are not necessary to teach a dog to walk on leash. They can be used for training in general but often they are used inappropriately. For more on walking www.homeskooling4dogs.com/walking-on-leash

Thank you, i'm glad you found it helpful!

Thanks for giving a shelter dog a second chance. As you have seen so many of these dogs just need some simple directions and not a bunch of corrections. Thanks for sharing your success! For reference you can find information on any (almost) topic or for specific products by using the search box at the homeskooling website here. www.homeskooling4dogs.com/index

If you need more guidance you can find it at the website here: www.homeskooling4dogs.com/walking-on-leash Thanks!

For dogs that "just stands still" there is not one simple answer. In these cases i first my know the dog I'm working with because it can be fear based, pain based, etc... But generally speaking in my experience the vast majority of dogs are just offering a mild protest to influence our direction. I will be doing a future video to address the issue alone with more videos on training without the use of clickers and treats. Thanks!

An animal needs to feel safe before we can effectively teach or train. For some dogs like yours we will always need to provide an environment they feel safe. Its understandable that dogs will pull (escape) when unsure of their surroundings. Here are two videos by Suzanne Clothier you may find helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NcaXxE0N1eM.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KwnSdvHI8mg.html

You'll find more help here www.homeskooling4dogs.com/walking-on-leash You can also use nosework or having him find toys or food treats to help tire him before heading out. Nosework is very tiring for dogs.

The first part of the answer is it depends. Generally speaking many dogs are excited and pulling leaving the house and getting out of the vehicle to get someplace fun. Your situation appears to be the opposite since your dog pulls to get home or back to the car. So how we work with an individual dog depends on what’s driving the behavior. With some dogs they are anxious and fearful so they struggle to get back to a safe place like the home or vehicle. Others may realize that you have concluded the park visit and now knowing staying is not an option have decided to hurriedly get to the next adventure or thing in their day. You will find more guidance here, www.homeskooling4dogs.com/walking-on-leash An important point is to give permission to do something other than walk at your side. I’m big on “permission” when working with dogs. Meaning I want them to sniff and have opportunities to explore. But it must be with permission. Many owners get this wrong. The dog will be distracted and pulling and just as soon as the owner pulls/guides the dog back to where they should be they give the dog “permission” to move away, sniff, explore, etc… What they get wrong is there was not a 10-second disassociation time between guiding them back and then releasing them to sniff. Another important point is don’t let the dog move forward unless they are exercising self-control. Meaning they will not exit the house or car unless completely under control and I have given them permission. Be careful not to move so fast that you are rewarding them for persistent. Stop and wait for them to exercise self-control then wait a little longer before moving forward. The general rule is to be sure we don’t move ahead so fast that we are rewarding them for persistent. Read the “Before You Start” section and watch the short video “loose leash walking door control” linked there. Under the “More Helpful Information” section at the bottom of the page there is a link to a short video “Thresholds, Thresholds, and Doing Nothing”. And another article “Guidelines for Teaching Self Control”.

Moving forward is the reward. I would try just freezing, as still as a fence post, until she slackens the leash. Then take a step. Immediately freeze again if she pulls. You've got to be strong for this, even if she's attached to a waistband. It is slow going. (Or more likely, not going.)

There is more guidance here www.homeskooling4dogs.com/walking-on-leash

As with most answers it depends. How we work with an individual dog depends on what’s driving the behavior. Dogs can be anxious and fearful, others are experiencing physical pain or discomfort, and still others are just persistent in their pursuit of getting someplace they desire. Anxious or fearful dogs may refuse to walk due to known or unknown threats. Adolescent dogs may be experiencing pain during growth spurts and find walking uncomfortable. Dogs can be experiencing soft tissue soreness due to play or exercise and find continuing to walk painful. When working with dogs its important to observe the dog for any physical issues such as pain, soft tissue soreness, and observe their gait and how they use the body. This can give us clues for their behavior. If I’m working with a dog and I have determined their stopping and refusing to walk with me is solely based on willfulness or desire to get to wherever they were set on going I just require them to move with me. This is best demonstrated then explained. It’s important to note that our actions speak louder than our words. An example is when I turn the opposite direction I make a point of my body facing the direction of travel and I do not turn and face the dog. If we turn and face the dog we have now potentially turned this into a negotiation in the dog’s view which is what I want to avoid. We do not want to reward persistence when its working against us. The other consideration is tension will often cause dogs to pull or stop. It this is the case we give an gentle pull and release and repeat as necessary. The goal being to get one of the dogs feet moving forward and then immediately release tension. This is often enough to get dogs moving if we keep moving, although we may need to repeat 2 or 3 times. If our body language states we are moving this direction and we do not turn around and contradict this 99% of dogs will start to move with us. All this is done without jerking or corrections. The goal is to guide and give directions. The overriding goal is that we be fair to the dog. There is more guidance here: www.homeskooling4dogs.com/walking-on-leash

Make that U-turn away from the other dog or person well before she gets excited. The idea is to not let her start to react. Keep her calm. Turn her away and get her out of the way of the approaching annoyance. After it passes, you can go back to your path.

A future video with include narration. thanks!

My approach to training is practical true to life training. The AKC teaching is nothing more than an arbitrary standard. I teach dogs to walk on the left and right side so they can be moved to the opposite side away from people who may be uncomfortable with dogs when out in public. I have used this technique for ten years on all types of dogs including plenty of German Shepherds, Rottie, Dobbie, Mastiff, Cane Corso, Newfoundland, Irish Wolfhounds, etc… and all on a martingale collar. I also wished I had someone following me around capturing video of the dogs I work with. LOL

Carl I would like to see your video.