How to troubleshoot and find the open in a electrical circuit for a outlet. 

Fantastic! I just watched three other guys dealing with this exact issue and you were so much clearer and to the point! Thank you.

Thank you so much... have been battling to find an open ground for 2 months and your tips helped me locate it in 10 mins. It was an outlet that had a very short ground that I needed to extend and attach to the rest of the pigtail. Turned on breaker after fixing and bam... all wiring is correct and now my GFCIs reset using a tester. New sub here...

Another way to determine which circuit breaker controls which wall outlet. I use a device called a Digital Circuit Detective, HTP-6. The part you plug into the wall outlet is called the transmitter. The hand-held is called the receiver, which you use to scan the circuit breakers. A tone will let you know which breaker is connected to which outlet. I then mark that breaker with a letter of number. Then I mark the wall outlet's faceplate, either outside or inside, with the same number or letter. Now you know which outlets are connected to which breaker. If you have a power problem with a particular outlet, you know which breaker powers that outlet. The beauty of this is that you do not have to turn off each breaker to find the one you are looking for.

THANK YOU SO MUCH. It is because people like you willing to share their knowledge and experience that we DIYers can do things on our own. I have the same problem right now and I'm confident that I will be able to take it down thanks to your video. I'll post my results. Thank you so much again.

To avoid losing power to other outlets you should use pigtails, that way if an outlet stops working you will know exactly whichone is and save time when fixing it

Well done. You are an excellent lecturer concerning electricity.

Thank you for making a great informative video. Love the idea of using an extension cable for the continuity test.

Thanks for the vid. Didn't find the problem yet, but it gave me an idea of what to look for. Time to go ripping into all the junction boxes!!

Great video & presentation. Subscribed. I like how quickly you are able to find an open neutral using only an extension cord a multimeter.

Great explanatory video. I have an informational comment, as I got the impression you were unaware. Conductors have resistance; the longer the distance (or thinner the wire), the higher the resistance. When the resistance gets low enough, the meter indicates little resistance and therefore continuity. So they are related, just something of inverse to each other (not exactly, but in practical concept as used here). Thanks for the helpful video; the extension cord tip may come in handy. I used Fluke equipment for years; great stuff, easy to use and some of the highest quality in the business.

Excellent Video. Simple, to the point, and effective at solving the problem.

Very helpful technique to get me started finding a short! Lightening strike took out 4 GFCIs and every piece of Fios equipment + our TiVo and garage door opener..

I have an open neutral problem. I thought of checking continuity but my Fluke leads are not long enough to reach from outlet to outlet. The extension cord idea will do the trick. Thanks so much for your video! Pete

Thank you so much for the informative video, I been trying for weeks to figure out why 3 of the outlets in my house don't work.

never thought to use cord always used wire ,thank you so much ,great job...

It was very nice I hope you continue to show us more videos about doing electrical work safely thanks👍

Super helpful, thanks for the really step by step cause some people leave out some small step that is needed

Thank you Bevin very helpful like the use of cord

Great video! Thank you sir!

Excellent presentation and video.

Using the S1 bit is great if that's what the head of the screw takes. Actually, use whatever bit fits the screw head. It's not unusual to see screws that were handy at the time of installation be used or the use of a slightly larger diameter screw if the screw hole had been stripped. If you do the continuity test with the power on, do NOT have both leads plugged in at the same time if they're in different holes of the outlets. The meter will handle it on voltage, but, depending on the meter, you'll blow the meter or a fuse in the meter if it's on continuity with one lead in hot and the other in ground or neutral. So, don't do what you saw done in the video and move one lead to a different hole then move the other lead. Instead, unplug BOTH leads first, then insert them into the other, matching holes. Of course, with the power off, as in the video, it won't matter. However, if you always do it the safe way, then you don't have to worry about it.

Very nice video,thanks!!!

Great tutorial 👌

Great advice... thank you😊

Thanks for the video. Keep up the good work. Take care

You the Man appreciate that extension cord trick!

Excellent vid !! And right to the point !! Thank you !!

Wow, that is what I'm looking for!!

All you need is an extension cord... And 200+$ of other trade tools. Hahah. Thanks for the tricks.

So clever. I understood this principle on DC but did not apply it to AC.

thanks that was great help it was the breaker

Never rely on Tic Tracer to verify power is off! Always double check with voltmeter.

Great video….found the neutral problem…there were 3 whites tyied together in the box… just retwisted them and walla! All fixed😃😃😃😃😃

This was really helpful and I will be using the extension cord (brilliant) for my single room problem. My only question is: if the outlet has two hot and two neutral wires, can you just plug the continuity tester into the top and bottom slots of the receptacle, or do you need to actually disconnect the wire from the receptacle and test the white wires independently (since the metal tab is intact on the receptacle on the neutral side)?

Good job !

great video

We call them hot sticks at work lol awesome video man I really like the trick with the extension cord.

Thank u

But you should Start by putting the ground or natural FIRST not the hot lead .. right?

I know, I'm late to the party, but, first find looks like a wedge that goes with another part called feathers. Used for splitting large stones. A line of holes is drilled and the feathers are put ine holes. Then the wedges are put down in between the feathers and hammered in in sequence. Eventually the pressure exerted from these fractured the stone along that line.

So after seeing the multimeter leads being used against recommended use(red lead on hot terminal, black lead on load terminal), why is it important or recommended to use the red lead for hots or positive current terminals only and to use black for load side? Awesome trick with the extension cord I’ll definitely try that next time when troubleshooting

At 5:36 into the video you installed the black probe into the HOT side while the red probe was mounted to the tester. Im not a pro by all means but I learned for safety reasons that the red probe in this case is now LIVE or HOT and shouldnt be touched. Its better to install a probe to ground or neutral first and then probe the HOT last.

Finally ...thank u

Great tips. I thought maybe you were going to use the lighted plug ends somehow. LOL.... 7:59 If the power would have been on & the outlet was wired correctly (I understand it was not for the teaching moment here), than the Fluke would of been damaged. Being it was on continuity (ohms) & you touched hot & neutral.

Good usable content but to be giving instructional content I think it’s best when you practice proper technique. The generalized terminology issue is what first got my attention. 1. Calling a voltmeter or multimeter a FLUKE, is like calling a vacuum cleaner a HOOVER. Hoover is a brand. Fluke is a brand, but a fluke isn’t a multimeter. Fluke makes countless other products. 2. The ticker as you called the other tool you also addressed briefly as a fluke, is more correctly called a NON CONTACT voltage tester, alternately they are called INDUCTION testers. Fluke and other companies make these. I’ve hear and read instances where electricians called them bogus and worthless. I imagine if an electrician only works in the new build electrical field, this might be something they don’t rely on and may even scoff at. But doing repair or troubleshooting work and remodel old build work, I can’t imagine why anyone would not keep one or two on hand. They are inexpensive and thankfully so, because they also break easily. The last thing was when your using your voltmeter, the RED wire is the positive or hot. Black is AWAYS negative. The wire itself is generic, as are the colors, so strictly speaking it doesn’t matter, but sticking to standards is the best way to teach others so they can be assured of actually learning something instead of simply parroting. A parrot can repeat things, but it is still just a stupid animal, it doesn’t know what it’s saying, it’s perhaps saying go fuck your self, but didn’t mean for you to follow thru and attempt any such thing. But of course, you can certainly do so. LOL. as for your content on another video, I did actually gain something I didn’t know even after having been working in electrical stuff for ages. Though, I can’t immediately recall what it was, but fwiw, it will come in handy eventually.

Baaaadddd Asss!!! 👍

2:43 of RU-vid fluffing plagued with ahs!

Short Circuit!

An electrical. An outlet

Take the cover plate off and inspect. Save yourself a 11 min fluke promo...

.........if your black-white floor has 8 squares by 8, within it, I would invite you to a game of chess on it. I believe you know which direction to set the 'board'

Emergency announcement!!!! Do not open your electrical panel if you are not an electrician!!! This can kill you. What he is doing is very dangerous for anyone but a licensed electrician. Do not try to do that on your own.

No don't touch a live wire!!!@#$%%

I'm not going to be fixing any electric stuff lol

Legos?? wth is zat about?.. any ill watch this again as long as you promise to never talk about kids toys aaaannyy more... we thank you.. OH YEAH.. in my experience, a "bad" breaker in the modern era is almost UNheard of, barring obvious issues such as a house fire, lightning strikes, earthquakes, direct or indirect metor strikes, etc.